Another question gents.

When accelerating gently she changes up at around 1500rpm which is about right..

However when she gets to 35mph she seems to change from 3rd to 4th lockup seemingly missing 4th altogether and instantly locking the converter..

The annoying thing is it'll hold 4th down to 30mph which makes for jerking around if you are a bit hasty with the throttle and it's a tad annoying if you want to overtake a cyclist or whatever as it just labours.
she changes down below 30...

I find i have to go past 1/2 throttle before it changes down to what i think is 3rd..

Kickdown works..

I have changed the oil in the box..

Would it be something to to with the TQ apply circuit in the valvebody or is it more of a TCM related thing?

Cheers gents..

Uh ... how does it miss 4th in the upshift when you have only 4th gears? :-) lol
From what I remember also mine will stick to 4th to very low speeds, try downshifting manually to '3' when dropping the speed and see how it reacts. Actually, try also all the manual selections and sport mode to see if the behavior changes, at least to gather more info.

Could be way off here, but if it goes 1-2-3-Lockup wouldn't that do this because lockup would then bypass torque converter+4th straight into direct through the box? Mine'll (the GEMS 4.6) try to climb a hill in 4th and/or locked up sometimes, I just kick it down or go into 3rd on the gear lever. The 4L Bosch is more keen on changing down at upward inclines. To be fair to the GEMS it's pretty good at switching between lockup and 4th most of the time (the rpm behaviour on overrun tells you if it's locked up yet or not).

Hiya gents..

It changes 1 2 3 but seems to miss Unlocked 4th and goes straight to lock out top at around 33mph which is odd.

If you climbing a hill you have to got pas 1/2 throttle before it changes down to 3rd, the minute the throttle is eased it goes back in lock out 4th..

She labours a fair bit.

And is annoying if you're accelerating up a dual carriageway off a roundabout or trying to merge on the motorway, i just matt the throttle now and it kicks down..

reluctant to change down IMo..

Odd.

My D2's auto box was quite reactionary..

It sounds similar to how mine operates, except it does go to unlock. I think if yours wasn't unlocking the shift would be really clunky. I live in a fairly mountainous area, and I generally shift down manually, as it doesn't shift down on it's own as soon as I think it should. My Disco and Dodge Dakota operate about the same.

You could try Sport mode or perhaps try resetting the adaptive values and let it start learning how you drive again.

Might also be worth rechecking the fluid level. From what I remember (the proper procedure is in RAVE somewhere, I'd review that and follow it rather than my description) you need to fill it up till it runs out of the filler plug, then run it through each gear position with your foot on the brake (engine running), put it back to (neutral i think?) and then top up again till it runs out of the filler plug, and put the plug back in. Thats for the models without dipstick, which yours should be given its a Thor 2001?

When you changed fluid, did you drop the sump and change the filter or just drain the fluid and refill? Fairly sure I've seen someone on here find the pickup pipe inside thats bolted to it, was in poor state and the cause of issues when they did theirs, but you'd have noticed it when you had it apart if you did.

A quick one to check, as I had terrible changes on mine when I first got it, is throttle cable adjustment. If it's not dead set as per RAVE, it seems to cause all sorts of changing issues. Probably doesn't help you, but it did me and it's free!

Strangerover:

make a call to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions. He is very helpful and knows everything there is to know about the 4HP24 box.
Do it under the guise of pricing the options available. He does not bullshit or try to sell you something you don't need.
His advice is always change the MAF first before you go any further.

dave3d wrote:

Strangerover:

make a call to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions. He is very helpful and knows everything there is to know about the 4HP24 box.
Do it under the guise of pricing the options available. He does not bullshit or try to sell you something you don't need.
His advice is always change the MAF first before you go any further.

I'll be sure to give him a buzz..

I do have a MAF "somewhere"

Cheers

I think the MAF is more critical on the diesel models for this than the V8. You can usually tell if the MAF is playing up by monitoring the fuel trims on nano if you have it. Bear in mind that your attempts to get the LPG to work again might also be playing around with the trims though if something else is still wrong there.