rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
Joined:
Posts: 443

Okay, I got them out, but there must be a better way. Thin walled sockets, or other special tools? The transfer case end of the front prop shaft was especially difficult.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 494

Drive shaft or prop shaft?

If you mean propshafts, there's a special 3/8in socket that fits

Better than 1/2in as it fits better.

https://www.manomano.co.uk/catalogue/p/9-16-land-rover-prop-shaft-nut-bolt-socket-tool-3-8-square-drive-17701704?model_id=17699706

It's also easier with suspension on lower setting. Leaves less crawl room though.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 702

If you are talking about the prop shaft bolts, as Tanis8472 mentioned, there is a special tool:

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/propshaft-socket-drive-land-rover-laser-6151-da1119-ba3138-p-37830.html

Yes, it is thin walled, so it fits over the nuts.
It is still a pain though. The bottom ones and those within reach are easy enough to remove but you can't get to the bolts higher up without rotating the propshaft/wheel and you can't do that with the handbrake on. So you need to jack up one wheel, support it on an axle stand, take the handbrake off and rotate the wheel. Then put the handbrake back on before you crawl underneath.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 443

Thanks for the replies. Yes, prop shafts. I'm Canadian, where the term driveshaft is used, but also I've lived in the British car world for decades so I should have known to write prop shaft.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 443

I'll be ordering the tool!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 409

3/8 drive socket and a universal flex joint will do it

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2297

dave3d wrote:

If you are talking about the prop shaft bolts, as Tanis8472 mentioned, there is a special tool:

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/propshaft-socket-drive-land-rover-laser-6151-da1119-ba3138-p-37830.html

Yes, it is thin walled, so it fits over the nuts.
It is still a pain though. The bottom ones and those within reach are easy enough to remove but you can't get to the bolts higher up without rotating the propshaft/wheel and you can't do that with the handbrake on. So you need to jack up one wheel, support it on an axle stand, take the handbrake off and rotate the wheel. Then put the handbrake back on before you crawl underneath.

It's a pain, but with the correct tool even I managed it - although it was coming off for the second time. Marty's impact had loosened it up about 300 miles before when we changed the UJs.
Follow the routine above for safety and it'll be fine.