Hello everyone! I've been a way for a while as my car was the off the road. I'm trying to get it back up and running now but running in to a few issues.

It went off the road for an oil pressure issue. Now that I'm furloughed and the weather has (or at least HAD) improved I've replaced the oil pump in the hope that it cures the pressure issue.

Over the winter the battery died. I've recharged it and although it's way down on CCA (445 instead of the 830 it's rated for) it is enough to start the car.

However, when I turn the key in the ignition there's no life from the dashboard or window switches. The only light that comes on is the SRS one. There's no rev counter, fuel gauge, warning lights etc. The window switches don't work. The interior lights DO work. I tried to connect the Nanocom but there's no life there either. I DO get the warning sounds from the dashboard though.

The remote central locking doesn't work but I didn't try manually locking it with the key in case it didn't unlock again.

As the engine starts I'm assuming the car isn't in a state of lockout.

I've checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all OK. I was hoping that Fuse 1 under the seat would be blown as that looks like it powers most of the things that don't work. It's fine though :(

I've not checked the relays yet.

Neither fuse box looks burnt out/melted/corroded

Besides the plugs for the oil pressure switch and crank position switch I don't remember disturbing or disconnecting any other wiring while replacing the oil pump.

Where should I go next?

At the moment I've no idea if the oil pump fixed the pressure issue as there's no life to the dash. I'm wary of running it for too long being unable to know how well it's doing.

Have you got power at Fuse 1? That is supplied directly from Maxi Fuse 1. Odd that the engine still starts as that requires both relay 15 and 19 to energise so you obviously have an ignition switched supply.

Not checked for power at the fuse. The battery has been taken back out of the car to go on charge again. I started it several times to draw oil and coolant through, stopping the engine to top up fluids etc. I didn't leave it running very long each time so the battery didn't take on much charge from the alternator.

I'll check for power when I hook the battery up later.

Would it be worth checking for water ingress into the BEcm?

No....

StrangeRover wrote:

Would it be worth checking for water ingress into the BEcm?

I had thought I'd be directed towards the BECM at some point.

So far, as the engine is running, I figured it was probably ok. I imagine the engine needs more from the BECM to work than the instruments do.

Water in the power board is more likely to cause things to work when you don't want them to rather than the other way round and is highly unlikely to let the engine run. But as the power board is on the top, water ingress would get to the processor board first and nothing would work.

Check the wiring from the ignition switch TO the BECM.

It sounds like the ignition position 1 (ACC) side isn't working. Position 2 (Ignition) and Position 3 (Start) are obviously OK.

That would possibly explain why some things won't power up even though the fuses are OK, and they might even have power if the BECM is ignoring the inputs because it doesn't think the accessories are actually on.

I'm on my phone, but I'll dig out the wire colours/pins in a bit to let you know where to look. But I'd take the RHF tread plate up first and look for signs of damage of corrosion to wiring under there first

Marty

Fuse one gets 13.5V when I hook up a jump pack (it's lighter than the battery and easier to move around!).

No obvious signs of corrosion but the carpet is wet.

Following on from Marty's suggestion, does anything power up with the ignition in position 1? Position 1 on the ignition switch supplies a ground to pin 13 (White/Pink wire) on C1280 which is the 16 way white connector into the BeCM (second one from the right below the BeCM fuse panel). Check that you have that ground signal when ignition switch is in position 1 and 2.

The pink/white wire gets a ground connection when the key is turned to P1.

Nothing else happens though. No noises from anywhere in the car and nothing lights up.

With the key turned to P2 The dash beeps, the SRS light comes on, the heater display comes to life, the heater fans spin up and the suspension lights come on.

So everything you'd expect other than the dash? In position 1 all you would normally get is windows, radio, wipers and fag lighter socket powered up. Message centre should also show the odometer and If the door is open, door open. I've had nothing on the dash except for the SRS light once before and all that needed was a squirt of contact cleaner in the RH plug into the instrument panel but that wouldn't explain no windows.

Yeah, I think so.

I've not checked the wipers or 12V socket but neither the radio or the message centre work.

https://youtu.be/0Vrlbc0wfmI

If also check that connector into the dash.

12V socket works and so do the wipers.

With the headlights on the dials light up.

On a side note, those 12V cigarette lighters heat up quick. That's all I had in the car to test the socket. Plugged it in for all of three seconds and tapped my finger on and off it as quickly as I could. The skin on my finger literally sizzled and now I have a burnt finger :(

You can easily tell a non-smoker, it wouldn't light a fag if it didn't......

I knew they got hot but didn't realise it was that quick!

When my parents used them when I was kid they took ages to heat up and pop out. I pulled this one out before it popped. It was only in a few seconds!

The first car I had after passing my test, one of my mates decided to fiddle about with the cigerette lighter, and decided it didn't work as it popped out too quickly. To prove it didn't work he put his finger on the end. The sizzling and resulting smell proved that actually it did work. He decided to leave it alone after that. But did spend the next couple of hours compaining about his burnt finger!

RutlandRover wrote:

I knew they got hot but didn't realise it was that quick!

Famous last words ;-) Watch out for hot burning fuel, high voltage ignition system bits and heavy cars should you try to let one down from a jack etc lol.

I've just spent a good hour poring over the ETM in RAVE trying to work out which connectors/splices/earths/modules might be common to all of the things that don't work.

It all gets a bit nuts when you get as far as the radio and windows etc as there's four doors with four windows, outstations, multiple speakers etc. I'm fairly certain the issue won't be with a component in an individual door and will be more centralised. I think the only central component that comes up in all the circuits is the BECM and the connectors for that.

I'm sure I'm using the ETM wrong but I've no idea what I'm doing with electrical diagrams and I've admitted defeat for now.

I'll check the connector to the instrument panel when I get a chance. It'll probably be the weekend now. I'll also test some more electrical equipment to try and pin point where the issue might lay. Electric seats, mirrors, horn, tailgate. I'll see if it will actually go in to gear and drive too.

In the meantime, any suggestions gratefully accepted!