Hey hey! A couple of pretty good days and I'm nearly there! There will be some 'daft laddie' questions at the end of this, so please be nice!
I've just been slowly building up the hubs, but for some 'light' relief.... a couple of folk have commented on the amount of rust around this car. I'd got to that stage in the job where Cpt James T Kirk might have said (had he ever refurbished a P38) - "Set ratchets to tighten...!" So I decided to do a little clean up and clear away the evidence of the 'strip down' phase. This is the amount of rust that came of the driver's side of the axle. I reckon there was about 1 - 1.5kg of rust in that pan. The same on the passenger's side.
I posted another thread about the EAS reservoir. It looked like this:
And now looks like this:
This is after 1 coat of rust converter, 2 coats of 'shiny', and a last coat of a brushable underseal which I've pretty good results with elsewhere. I invested a Princely £5.00 in a few packets of O rings to be able to reseal the fixings at either end. This will go back under the car tomorrow using stainless fixings and anti-gall paste.
New propshaft fitted.... Whose idea was it to put the gearbox crossmember under the gearbox end of the front propshaft? This is actually a job I hate. The 'special tool' to access these nuts/bolts isn't really so wonderful, and I'm pretty sure the new nuts and bolts we get are made of cheese. Ho Hum. It's on, and I can refurb the original with new UJs at my leisure.
EAS sensors back on, with new heat shields and Clive's nice stainless fixings where they tie to the radius arm.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I managed to destroy the steering stop bolts by having my windy gun set to tighten by mistake - so here's my workaround. Overkill on the securing nuts no doubt, but I remember my first ever MOT in the early 90's and the tester complaining I hadn't used a locking nut on something, so.......
As above I had bought new CV boots - but there was just no way I was going to get them fitted. So here's my "hanging half-shaft" technique....
This way, gravity was working in my favour so I could pull the boot down and rummage about to get as much as possible of the old grease out before putting new stuff back in. The boots themselves were actually in strong condition, so I'm quite happy to resuse them. Better sealed this time. The britpart boot clamps I got with the grease sachets were also made of chinesium, so I had to go into town for a pack of good ones and the old boots are now properly secure.
Anyway, you guys have all seen this stuff before, and more often than I have, so here we are - one, more or less complete axle end. The other one is at exactly the same stage. It's nice to be putting new bolts into place.
Not particularly obvious in the pics are: new draglink and trackrod; new panhard rod dampers; new steering damper; new brake flexis.
After all that, about 5.30pm today, I wasn't ready to venture into fresh territory and tackle the brake bleeding, so I treated myself to playing with some more new stuff. I got the roof rail 'sliders' moving and offered up one of the rails/bars I got off ebay. Looking good!
So that's where we are. Now the 'daft laddie' questions :-)
I now have a car with two new front air springs; and two new front calipers. It seems to me that a lot's going to happen when I reconnect the battery and turn on the ignition - and I'm a little scared that my brain might melt, far less the car's ECU.
1) Can I stagger the work by pulling fuses/relays? Or is this just not necessary?
2) I've checked the manual for the brake bleeding procedure. It talks of depressurising the system by repeated pedal pressing. I just can't remember if I did that at the outset. Is this critical, and will it stop me going any further? Can I just do it now, even with the battery out and the front caliper circuits empty?
3) the workshop manual bleeding process seems very complicated (remember, I'm an old Defender owner!) and doesn't mention use of any pressure bleeding kit. I have a good one of them. Can I use it, and does it simplify things?? I have tried searching. Is there an idiot's guide?
4) Do I need to do anything regards the EAS system? Will that just kick in, repressurise and fill the new springs without my doing anything?
Genuinely appreciate any help I can get here.
This could either be a 30 min, quick completion, allowing me to drive the car tomorrow; or a protracted PITA..... !