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Member
Joined: Apr 29 2020
Posts: 24

Howdy all,

My next project will be replacement of the various bushings starting with those on the radius arms and pan hard rod. I'll eventually do them all.
In a general way, when removing these is an air hammer w/ a bushing attachment too aggressive?

When watching this youtube video I'm wondering why he's made his own tool and choosing to hammer them out by hand.

Member
Joined: Apr 23 2019
Posts: 571

One false move with an air chisel, and you may regret that you didn't just do it by hand. I did my panhard bushes by using a v similar tool to that featured in your video.
P38 radius bushes have a nylon sleeve though - very different technique for refitting. They require a special tool/ press, or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiAycOtZOwQ&t=12s

Member
Joined: Sep 14 2016
Posts: 499

Pretty sure that one of the inexpensive import universal bush removal sets has the appropriate pusher and receiver for the panhard rod bushes. Not sure about force screw tho'. I'll have a check in the next day or so and verify. I did mine with a home made hydraulic press and stuff to hand.

The radius arm bushes are larger than the holes in the arm so need a tapered compression section in the installer. I can send you drawings in PDF for a comprehensive tooling set for removal and installation that can be made on any half decent lathe, or a Myford if desperate. I bought a set of tools from Laser that were supposed to do the P38 and didn't so I ended up rolling my own. Cutting the compression taper is the only difficult part but since I made mine it has been demonstrated by romanrob, see his You Tube video, that an inexpensive taper roller bearing outer race works fine as a compressor section. Much easier. Hopefully I've updated my drawings.

If you do take a set of drawings to make your own installer odds are that you'd not need to make everything but I made my tooling as a potential loaner set so it had to be complete.

My tooling does exactly the same job as romanrobs method but its neater, doesn't need jubilee clips and incorporates an alignment device so the bush has to go in dead straight. Gotta get some return for all that time spent on a lathe!

If you decide to do the radius arm bushes on a hydraulic press the angle of the arms makes it quite difficult to hold them dead square if working on your own. Especially if its a cheapy type with a bottle jack'n prodder hung on springs. Best done with a helper. Copious cursing doesn't seem sufficient assistance!

If I ever do another set of radius arms I shall make a mini hydraulic press using one of the inexpensive 10 or 12 ton ram assemblies sold as spares for import hydraulic pullers. Which will also work fine for steering balljoints. With 20-20 hindsight thats what I should have done before starting the whole bush'n steering balljoint lark replacement lark. Something like the eyewateringly expensive Land Rover official balljoint tool or similarly wallet hostile Sykes Pickavant 2242 set. £50 for the ram and an afternoon in the workshop being more my speed. Less actually as I have a couple or three rams kicking around already.

Clive

Member
Joined: Aug 07 2019
Posts: 192

i have replaced many bushes in my day i use the hacksaw method , push the guts out of the bush and cut with the hacksaw until it goes tight around the blade (the outer sleeve has collapsed on the blade) note do not push on the blade as it will curve and not cut straight , long smooth cuts with very little pressure
have watched other people do different ways press, weld, gas axe etc and do damage to the stage that they are welded up . bye the way if you are going to put it in a vise and flog it with a hammer , it better be a good vise bolted to a good bench .

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1999

I held my radius arms while Marty pressed the bushes in on his hydraulic press. I'd say that two people are definitely required although the second person requires very little skill (luckily!)

Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 396

I did all my front end bushes last year. The panhard rod bushes are very easy to do. I pressed the old ones out and fitted the new ones just using a large bench vice and a couple of suitably sized sockets as spacers. It was a doddle.
The radius arms are a different matter. The arms need to come off the car obviously, a big job in itself. The bushes are all plastic and rubber. There is no outer metal sleeve as such. I burnt them out with a propane torch and an old wood chisel as a scaper. Then took the opportunity to clean up and paint the arm. I used emery paper on the eye of the radius arm then lubricated it to ensure the bush went in cleanly.
So far so good. All of this is straightforward.
Now the difficult bit. The bush is slightly bigger than the radius arm. It needs to be compressed to get it started in the hole. I have a hydraulic press and I tried filing a chamfer on the bush. I wrecked the bush. Others say they have done it sucessfully though. The special L/R tool is very expensive. In the end I found an Indy that had it and he did it while I waited. Didn't charge much.
I bought the bearing I think it was romanbob used. I would use that in a hydraulic press if I had to do it again.
Use OEM bushes all round not poly.

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1209

If anyone is around the Swindon area and wants bushed pressed, then I have a 20T bottle jack press and the correct tool to do it.

The tool was about £80 when I bought it and does the job nicely. I've done a few sets on my own without help, and it takes a bit longer to get it all lined up but once it starts pressing, its fine.

Member
Joined: Sep 14 2016
Posts: 499

Yup its getting a straight start thats important with the radius arm bushes.

Well worth spending some quality time with a workmate, sawhorses or whatever and packing to support the arm level before you start. Those things are heavy and your arm gets tired pretty quickly when trying to position and hold them just so to start pressing. Its not just taking the weight. the bend means that the darn thing wants to slide sideways out of alignment. Holding against the slide as well as supporting the weight is what really sets the muscles trembling.

One bush on my ownsome with no extra support was quite enough for me thank you!

But 66 is not the new 26 so maybe younger members will manage better than the old farts brigade.

Clive

Member
Joined: Jan 16 2016
Posts: 396

For someone doing them fairly regularly it would probably be worth making up a jig to hold the radius arm in the right position while the bush is being pressed in. Weld a bit of old angle iron. My bushes are next due in another 20 years, if I am around.

Member
Joined: Feb 07 2020
Posts: 45

Clive603 wrote:

I can send you drawings in PDF for a comprehensive tooling set for removal and installation that can be made on any half decent lathe, or a Myford if desperate.

Yes please Clive...

Member
Joined: Sep 14 2016
Posts: 499

Just need to update the drawings to include a version with the taper roller bearing outer as the compression element. Much simpler unless you have a high end toolroom or similar machine with effective taper turning attachment.

Hopefully all done by the weekend. PM me your E-Mail and I shoot it over when finished.

Clive

Member
Joined: Apr 29 2020
Posts: 24

Apologies all for not getting back to this sooner. I've not had much Rover time of late but really do appreciate the advice.
I'm going to start on this shortly and will update once parts have landed.

I believe this to be the full list:

4x ANR2563 - Front Radius Arm to chassis - pg. E24
2x ANR3304 - ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS
2x ANR3305 - ANTI ROLL BAR BUSH
4x ANR3332 - FRONT RADIUS ARM BUSH
4x ANR1191 - FRONT RADIUS ARM BOLT
4x ANR1000 - FRONT RADIUS ARM LOCKNUT M12
2x ANR3671 -> RBX101340 - FRONT PANHARD BUSH
2x ANR4386 - FRONT PANHARD BOLT
2x ANR3140 - FRONT PANHARD NUT
2x ANR3285 - REAR TRAILING ARM BUSH
2x ANR1187 -> ANR6920 - REAR TRAILING ARM BOLT
8x ANR3140 - REAR TRAILING ARM NUT M16 FLANGED HEAD NYLOCK
2x RYG101340 - REAR TRAILING ARM BOLT M16 X 110
2x ANR3313 - REAR TRAILING ARM BOLT M12 *NLA (REUSE)

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 4913

Sounds good and looks like you've covered everything. Only comment I have is that I attempted to change the rear trailing arm bushes but even with the weight of the car on the end of the breaker bar, I still couldn't undo the bolts so gave up. Doing the front end will make one hell of a difference though.