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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Jun 17 2018
Posts: 767

It is no secret that my paint is slowly deteriorating, and before anyone says it is because you polish it too much, I use Wax mainly so no degradation ;)

The reason I ask is how the hell do you remove the plastic lower sill covers

These things enter image description here

Another issue is my drivers side one is bulging out from the body near the front mudflap for whatever reason and it looks rather odd..

Next up i'm it a windscreen out job to do the roof properly?

Thanks

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 5061

Pull them, they are clipped on. Take the stainless treads out from the door openings and it's pretty obvious. RAVE tells you how to remove all the others. This is mine when it came back from being sprayed (except I refitted the mirrors, indicators and rear lights before driving it home, then fitted the rest once it was there).

enter image description here

and shortly afterwards....

enter image description here

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Joined: Jun 17 2018
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Right.

Thanks Richard

smart looking motor that

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
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While the rest of it was away being sprayed, all the trims were laid out on the floor and sprayed with bumper black. Hardest part of putting it back together was the plates on the sides of the back bumper. They went in with the car to be sprayed but were a real bugger to get back on properly for some reason. Don't scrub up too badly for a 408k mile car does it?

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Joined: Jun 17 2018
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Looks like a pucker P38!

Don't see many 400k P38s

She'll probably see 1 mil before long lol

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Joined: Feb 25 2020
Posts: 236

The 'bulging' is usually sign of too much dirt/rust inside the sill cover, I have not taken out the lower ones (yet) but these parts usually have a metal strip inside to keep the shape, once it starts to rust it ... grows and ... bulges :-)
Time to replace...any repair is temporary.
Noticed Richard's photo shows the lower trim under the rear windows in place, should it also go out like the ones in the doors or it needs the entire window frame out? I am planning to respray mine as soon as I am done with the interior (hopefully before deep winter!).

If you can remove the top windscreen trim and there is left a sufficient gap in between the roof and the glass, no need to remove the windscreen then, tape will suffice to keep the area clean to work.

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Joined: Oct 20 2018
Posts: 161

Before mine went to the bodyshop I removed all the windscreen trim which leaves enough room at the top.
The bottom rubbing strips seemed to come off most easily by prising the upper part out of the cupsacs and then the lower clips that fit round the body can be eased off.
If it's an early one the clips in the centre rubbing strips will break and then it's either new strips or gluing them back on as the clips aren't available separately.
I did remove the whole section around the rear window - 2 screws behind the rubber trim and then broke the lower part trying to get the rest off which is glued top and bottom. A replacement part is hard to track down but they are about. With the trim off there is plenty of room to mask.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
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Section around the rear window is one piece and is glued on, so it stayed there. The same for the D post covers, two or three screws that you can see with the tailgate open but the rest appeared to be glued and that also didn't want to come off so it stayed there and was masked. Same for the strips along the roof, I wasn't even going to attempt to get them off. Took the wheel arch liners out too so they could paint right up to the edges of the wings.

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Joined: Feb 25 2020
Posts: 236

Cool, I had not given thought to the arch liners, indeed they mess the inner edge.
Good points on the rear d-pillar trim, strange looking at the manual it looks so easy ...