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Guys,

My spares truck has “working” EAS it the extent that when the truck is being driven all is good. When you park it up for the night you come back to it next morning and the rear has risen to off road height plus ... and the front sunk to access mode and sometime it has also risen to off road height..

I haven’t got time to look at sorting it at the moment, that will be a Christmas job. However, I know you can swap out the timer relay to stop the auto leveling function from working when parked up.

My question is, looking at the timer relay, it is a 5 pin base with the additional pin for the timer. If I replace it with a standard 5 pin relay (like a green one from under the bonnet type) am I looking for a 5 pin resistor type or 5 pin non resistor type?

Answers on a post card from those that know please.

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5 pin isn't needed, just a standard 4 pin does the job of stopping self levelling. Resistor (or back emf protection diode) probably isn't a bad idea but I doubt it will make a difference. Internal leaking in the valve block is the most likely problem rather than self levelling so a set of O rings is on your Christmas list.

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Noted. I seem to recall there is a trusted eBay supplier, is that correct?

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X8R.....

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I bought mine off of Hamazon..

Quite quick delivery too, X8R

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Just a quick little bump - does the 4 pin relay that replaces the timer need to have any particular rating? Will a standard 35amp do the job?

Mine settles overnight, I think because the RHR bag is leaking a little, and its normal parking spot is a little uneven. To help me diagnose this further I think I will swap out the timer relay for a few days to see what happens, but I did see one reference somewhere to a 40amp relay...?

Thanks muchly.

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High power one is only a good idea for the compressor relay, timer only powers the ECU so doesn't need a high power one (fused at 10A). Or just pull Fuse 44 which supplies power to the timer relay contacts so it will still wake up and energise every few hours but won't do anything as it will have no power to switch.

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Thanks GD - I mainly asked because I have several standard, 35amp, 4-pin relays kicking about already. I can just swap one in easily enough.

However, just to better understand this overall - I believed that swapping relays had no 'down side', with the exception that there would be no diagnostics available.

Would pulling Fuse 44 deliver the same objective (no self-levelling) while still allowing diagnostics?

Thanks.

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Yes. The timer relay is energised all the time the ignition is on so supplies power to the EAS ECU. It then also wakes up every 6 hours or so to power everything up for the self levelling. Putting a 4 pin relay in means it is only energised while the ignition is on, so no wake up and self levelling but also no diagnostics. Fuse 44 supplies power to the ECU via the timer relay contacts (or via the 4 pin relay) so with that pulled the timer relay will still wake up and energise but won't have any power to switch. Easier than grovelling under the seat trying to pull the timer and far easier than trying to get the thing back into it's socket which you will invariably have pulled off it's mounting point so it is now floating around on it's wiring.

You obviously won't be able to connect diagnostics with Fuse 44 pulled as the ECU won't be powered.

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Gilbertd wrote:

Putting a 4 pin relay in means it is only energised while the ignition is on, so no wake up and self levelling but also no diagnostics.

i have read this in numerous places but my experience has been a bit different. two days ago i was able to pull diagnostic codes and clear the Faults
with the four pin relay in. i usually replace it with the five pin when i run diagnostic checks and pull Fault codes but forgot to do so this last time.

even with the four pin relay in place the RWS software was able to connect, read the Faults and reset the system. granted, it took a few tries to connect.

but it did eventually and i was able to get back on the road.

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Interesting although I've never tried it. Pulling the timer relay (or fuse 44) is a good way of isolating which corner has a slow leak but I can't see the point in removing the timer relay and replacing it with a 4 pin. If you habitually park on very rough ground it might reduce the load on the compressor marginally but when it self levels it drops 3 corners so won't be taking anything out of the reservoir.

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Mine definitely does not connect with diagnostics with the 4 pin relay. I’m sure I’ve tried to connect at least twice, wondering why the Nano wasn’t working until I remembered the relay. I think I’ve done the same with RSW, but that would have been a couple of years back.

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No connection to diagnostics when I have tried, and forgotten the timer relay was in the cubby......
I have heard of the odd instance that folks had gotten comms as well, not here.....

What will happen, ,and is not mentioned usually in discussions about the 4 pin option is the EAS will always revert to whatever setting it was on when the relay was unplugged, and replaced with the 4 pin. So, if it was in extended ride height when swapped, and left at access when you park and shut it off, it will rise to extended height when you next start the car. I use the 4 pin as The place I park right now is uneven, and the EAS makes the most amazing series of wheezes, clicks and farts when I park up and close the door. This can go on for 5-10 seconds as it gets itself just right in the parking space. Embarrassing in a crowded carpark when it does it as well......Wife asked me to make it stop doing this. Timer out, job done!