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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Yes, expensive for one off as p&p is more than the cost of the switch. One can get them cheaper than RS but I couldn’t find anyone with stock and no real indication on when they would be available! I have sent my address via private message to take one off your hands as I can always cancel my order and I’m not overly confident of the April date - the October date for the 100mA version has already gone out to November!

On the original battery drain issue, the Hankook seems to have survived its drastic discharge OK and is holding charge with no appreciable drain now. As before I can only conclude that the discharge and compressor/fuse issue were just coincidental just to confuse me - what else can one expect with a P38!

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Hi Garvin, Will send one this week; Wonder what the supply issue is ?

Good to hear your battery is behaving now: P38s are like dogs, best not to show them any fear or they will bite !?

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Pm sent.

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Received the switches today Dave.
Thanks very much, top man!
Chris

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Chris; No problem; Enjoy !

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The saga continues . . .

Rangie has performed flawlessly since the last drama - no apparent power drain, Hankook battery back to rude health, firing up 'on the button', EAS compressor operating happily . . . until yesterday evening! Unlocked OK on the fob, ignition on with no usual signs of low voltage, twisted the key to fire her up and . . . nothing - and I mean nothing, not even the faintest of clicks . . . arghh!

This morning the investigation began - battery voltage absolutely fine, fuse 40 not blown, power at the starter relay, starter motor relay bench tested OK. Jumped the relay and . . . nothing! Need to get at the starter motor to complete checks but she's down at access level and parked such that getting a jack in under the axle is difficult to say the least. No problem, Nanocom will provide control to heave the beast up to high level so I can squeeze under. Nano connected, ignition on, select EAS and then hit High level and a message pops up stating that the engine needs to be running and doors closed . . . double arghh! But wait, Nano lies - hit the OK button under the message and up she goes - result!

Squeeze under (a door left open of course) and check continuity of solenoid wire - OK. Check voltage with relay jumped - full 12V available at the terminal. Check earthing of starter motor - OK. Get trusty mallet and give the solenoid a good beating and voila - starter spins happily!

The previous drama seems to be just complete coincidence with the starter motor and compressor going AWOL at the same time and now who really is the culprit for blowing fuse 40 previously? I have withdrawn my previous apology to the starter motor and given the solenoid more whacks than necessary to vent my frustration!

Rebuild or replace? Does anyone do rebuild kits for these starter motors? Are the (very) cheap replacement 'aftermarket' starter motors any good or should I go OEM?

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Got partway through reading and was about to say the other way of lifting it with the Nano is to go into the outputs, open the valves, then on the next page, open the inlet valve. Doing it that way doesn't matter if the doors are open or not or if he engine is running or not.

As for the starter, I bought a used one for mine, fitted that, then took the original into a local auto electricians who fitted new contacts in the solenoid and brushes in the starter.

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I am quite OK ‘refurbishing’ starter motors (have done a number in my time - the last one was done in June last year!) but it’s nice to know what brushes and contacts to get so if anyone knows please post up the information. The starter seems to be a ‘generic’ unit used on a number of vehicles so the info must be out there somewhere . . . but where?

If I can get hold of the necessary bits and pieces I’ll get a cheap replacement whilst I refurbish the original, otherwise I’ll go OEM.