Just finished the brake modulator overhaul and modification as supplied by Range Rover Solutions in Australia. I have no intention of trying to usurp Russell Botha's excellent and detailed instructions, but here's a couple of things I found along the way. Remember I'm a left hooker, some of this will be easier/different on a RHD.
First thing is that Russell recommends having the suspension at standard height to make later bleeding easier. If you are 7'13" this may be an option. I pulled the ABS relays and fuses and dropped to access. I can run it back to standard without firing up the pump later.
The modulator is big. It's big and it's awkward. Do your best to get as much fluid out as possible. Disconnecting the line between the pump and reservoir at the res end was easiest for me. I put plenty of rags underneath to catch errant drips when you start to undo the hard lines.
Once out, you drift the pins that hold the fork in giving you this little lot...
Then you attack the modulator from the other side. So far everything went swimmingly and as per the book, until it came to remove this...
I had to use some of this...
I was careful to heat the plug rather than the surrounding alloy. It needed 4 or five heat/cool cycles before finally letting go. You can probably see why...
I could then drift out the gizzards from the other end. A 1/4 drive extension bar is ideal for this as it sits squarely on the end of the cylinder to be drifted, with zero chance of internal damage.
The little filter is a tad tight. I went gently all the way around, applying tiny pressure only, like this...
This is what all the fuss is about...
Mine were in one piece but very easily broken for removal. Getting pretty brittle, I'd say.
New ones fitted up no problem...
Then it was time for o-rings...
There's seven. I could only find homes for six!
Hiding in the end of this...
You can see it in the instructions photo. It looks a bit like a cartridge firing cap, is this...
Just drift it out from behind and this is where your 7th o-ring lives! It seems to have no purpose than as a blanking piece. I dunno? Anyway.
Reassembly is very straightforward, giving you this...
Then the fun starts. Getting the pig back in. There's no pictures of this. I haven't got enough hands.
Russell gives you the choice of bench fitting the reservoir or leaving it until the modulator is in. On a left hooker, leave it off.
As you look at the modulator in the vehicle from the front, there are three hard lines on the left, two at rear bottom, up by the bulkhead, one towards the front, three on the front and a single one, with banjo fitting on the right side.
On a RHD vehicle, the first three lines, on the left, will be towards the wing and access should be fairly good. On LHD, someone put an engine in the way and they are a bastard! Especially the two bottom ones. To start with I tried to fit these before locating the modulator, trying to make access easier. Don't bother. The rearmost, which on mine, feeds the front LH caliper, runs underneath the modulator and with that loose, it's impossible to get the right angle on the pipe with a very real risk of crossing the thread. Fit the mod up, break four fingers on your left had and get stuck in there. You'll get at least a 5 degree turn on the spanner every time and it only takes an age, so get on with it. This is one of the reasons I recommend access height. I was already stood on points like a bloody ballerina as it was.
Once you've got these two on, the rest are pretty straightforwards. Once you've done, refit the reservoir. A smear of brake fluid on the rubber bungs and steady pressure worked for me.
Amazingly, the fork slotted happily over the pedal and travel is nice and smooth.
So it's in, all connected up, which brings me to a question. The instructions tell me to pull the plunger on the brake switch out, push the pedal in slightly and refit. Mine doesn't want to come out at all. I seem to remember somewhere about the very early ones (mines January 1995 build) not being the same. Can anyone shed some light?
Apart from that, I'm still waiting on the hoses (which are somewhere in the Philippines) and I can get some fluid in there and see if it all works.
Apart from the plastic washers looking on their last legs, some of the o-rings weren't particularly pretty, so I'm glad I got in there and replaced them all. Interestingly, my modulator is dated 1997 on a 1995 vehicle and Nanocom tells me I have 4 wheel traction control. Ah well.
Once again, top instructions from Russell, the actual job itself really isn't difficult.
