As the title says I want to treat the box with an oilchange. I've got a new set with screen, O rings, alloy rings and rubberseal.
What worries me, I've read some posts about the suctionpipe breaking when swapping to the new screen, due to becoming brittle over time.
Is this the case so I better order a new suctionpipe beforehand?
Tony.
Anyone?
Haven't done this so can't comment, but if the pipe isn't crazy money it might not hurt to get one in, just in case..
Can't help on that one Tony- apart from to say that when I did it, it didn't break!
I did do the full flush technique and have to warn you that, although effective at replacing all of the system fluid rather than part, however much care you take, it's messy and obviously uses a lot of Dex 3!
How much is the suction pipe? If cheap it probably makes sense to have one to hand. Saves having car off the road waiting for parts.
It's not crazy money Mark, €21.- (Island4x4 OEM) to €31.- (LRdirect LR), but I'm on a time schedule as I have a reservation for the 4-post ramp in a garage nearby. No time for UK orders, just my local LR dealer which takes 24 hrs. (nothing P38 on the shelf).
At the same time I want to calibrate EAS once on that ramp, I have a feeling it is leaning abit and figuers left and right differ some 8 bits.
As for flushing, that is a job for the specialists, a transmission-shop over here charges 12 litres ATF extra for flushing (of his expensive brand of course). First I will see how the old stuff comes out, when it is real dark I fill it with the drained amount, drive it, drain again and refresh the screen etc.
Tony.
The flush is more of a pain on the Thor without the dipstick pipe anyway. You have to make a hose fitting to screw in place of the fill plug, all of which takes time.
Fingers crossed that your suction pipe stays intact. Like I said, of all the one that I've done, it didn't break :)
Orangebean wrote:
Fingers crossed that your suction pipe stays intact.
Shame. My iimagination is endless...
OB: got a link to how to do the flush on gems?
I'll have a look. All I did was take return from cooler off at box end. Jury rig (and I'm going from my increasingly flaky memory here) a hose onto it using a bit of old inner tube to catch bowl. Run engine- with unwilling assistant "driving" and move through gears (brakes hard on!) while force pouring trans oil down dipstick tube, with a tool that looks like a 1/2 litre syringe on steroids until oil coming into bowl looked clean. Then drain box, off with pan, change filter + O rings, put return pipe back on, fill with clean oil to level as per book. Job messily done!
I'll see if I can find a link somewhere that might explain a bit better...
I had my car 8 years and only did a service/oil change in its last year.
Nothing was broke or brittle. All went smoothly.
You might want to buy a 12v pump/extractor to make the refill a lot faster.
I bought one of these for about £15.
I use the manual version:
I'm curious but am afraid to ask what that is actually intended for........
What the fukking hell is that?
lol
I wont ask what you use to grease the nipples with.
Well, Morat and Paul are obviously New Men :)
You don't know where I saw one ;)
Don't tell me, it was being used on a sheep, wasn't it?!
Morat wrote:
You don't know where I saw one ;)
Hahaha, awesome!
This sounds like a messy but achievable task. How quickly do you need to push the new fluid in during the process?
Pretty much as fast as you can! You'll find it hard to keep up with what the box pumps out!
Can't remember which box you have- dipstick or non-dipstick, but if you haven't got a dipstick you'll need to make up a hose fitting to go in the fill hole anyway so make it as large bore as you can.
Be prepared to get oily and buy LOTS of Dex 3. I get mine from Smith & Allan in 20L drums
https://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/1840-smith-and-allan-atf-diii-dexron-3-atf-d3-semi-synthetic/