hi guys got in p38 year 2000 today and put it in reverse did not like it will go but very slowly felt like it was fighting its self any ideas mate told me to pull gear box dip stick and check levels but cant see one
hi guys got in p38 year 2000 today and put it in reverse did not like it will go but very slowly felt like it was fighting its self any ideas mate told me to pull gear box dip stick and check levels but cant see one
You won't, cars built after 1999 don't have one. The fluid level has to be checked using the level plug but with the engine running. I must admit that auto boxes are a bit of a black art as far as I'm concerned so can't offer any advice on the reverse problem. If nobody else pops up, you could try giving Ashcrofts a call and seeing what they can tell you (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php).
cheers
As richard says, there's no dipstick. Your see the filling/level check plug ( on the front of sump) when under the car, start the engine , run through all the gears before checking ( leave it running) otherwise it will pour fluid out.
Hate to say it but there might be more info on an American website.. In the UK autoboxes are considered a black art but in the US many home mechanics will have a crack at rebuilding them, probably because the info on autoboxes is much more readily available, there are chain stores of autobox rebuilding firms etc... just pop into a shop any buy a rebuild kit for a gearbox. I've delved into building them myself but it's a lot of faff and there are very specific tolerances.
Simon
Unfortunately, as it's German designed ZF box, the Yanks would consider it a black art too. They understand the simple GM boxes and Land Rover tried a GM box in the early diesel L322, you're very lucky if it isn't worn out after 80,000 miles, a barely run in mileage on a ZF.
You know why they like autos in the States don't you? The concept of two feet and three pedals just doesn't compute........
and with 500 cu in you only need one gear for uphill, one for downhill and one for on the flat :)
I know they will be far more familiar with Yank stuff, but not sure if they'd balk at the thought of rebuilding a German autobox.
Reckon you'd probably only really need 3rd gear on a 3spd auto in most muscle cars, top speed only maybe 110mph in 3rd due to gearing even then. I used to love the Hill St Blues opening scene with a line of police cars all burning rubber out of the station, smoking tyres in every gear. My mate used to reckon he had the fastest car in town until I took him out in my Cosworth years ago... but he told me about the time he tried to race a TransAm from the lights...#
I've converted plenty 500ci engines, plenty torque in them!
Simon
Unless you know its had new oil recently drain the box, drop the pan, clean and refill. Assuming no suspicious bits lying in the pan or seriously horrible looking transmission fluid coming out. Although its a relatively simple autobox by modern standards its still much more sensitive to fluid quality than the old style ones. So changing oil may be enough to sort it.
Personally I figure 50,000 miles or so is quite enough for any single fill of automatic transmission fluid. Especially as only around 2/3 rds comes out. Whatever the OK for life label says. Cynical moi figures its quite true to say the modern vision that fluid lasts for the life of the box is quite true given that the box goes bang when the fluid wears out. Which probably isn't quite what the PR and manual writing guys meant. but the her-ladyship runs a T6 L322 (and drives it like its a Hayabusa!).
American shade tree rebuild experience is more about old style all hydraulic boxes, Torqueflights et al, than the modern uber-electronic breed. If you have adequate measuring gear you really can do a proper rebuild in t'shed. Almost all the wearing parts are straightforward mechanical. But then, with a Bristol 603 sitting out front waiting for me to get up enthusiasm to finish de-bodging the body side, I like Torqueflights.
Clive
Knowing that most modern auto boxes are sealed for life I was quite surprised when someone (I think it was Ferryman) pointed out that the service schedule shows that a fluid and filter change should be done every 24,000 miles. I suspect it is something that has been neglected on just about every P38 on the road, I know I've only done mine once in 135,000 and even then I only changed the fluid and not the filter. However, in my defence that was because I dropped the pan and found the filter held in place with Torx screws and, after spending nearly 2 hours searching for my Torx bit set, gave up and put the pan back on. Only to find the Torx bit set when putting the rest of my tools away...... The filter is still in it's box on a shelf in the garage.
The service bulletin says refresh oil every 24K mls or 2 years, the filter only after the first 24K from new, after that only oilchange.
After all it's not a filter but a screen.
Our previous Benz (CLK 200 auto) even claimed to have oil "for the lifespan of the vehicle", the dipstick was sealed, only to be removed by authorized personell. Rubbish.
As for LR's choice for ZF boxes instead of US, I thought they learned their lesson with the Classic, initially it came (the autobox) with a 3 speed Chrysler Torqueflite before the ZF.
cheers guys im going to have look t it this weekend work just been crazy this week not had chance thank for the information guys