Not for the RR but the boat that needs another engine (Volvo Penta V8= Chevy 5.7).
The block I found is a similar Mercruiser and a couple of GM heads that need refurbishing and grinding the valves.
I already have the woodstick with rubber end, I want something more sophisticated for in the drill but don't want to pay €100 to Midlock for their tool, is there something more affordable on the market?
And yes, it can be used for RR too.
Something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Tools-UK-BEST-G4095-Eezi-Lap-Oscillating-Valve-Lapper-Tool-/181507212901?
I use a tight fitting short bit of fuel hose over the collet end of the valve with a stud at other end of hose into battery drill chuck. With a combination of a greasy finger pushing on valve head and pulsing the drill it gives pretty good results, not oscillating though so purists would object. When tested after with engineers blue gives a good consistent seat though.
That's more like it Mark, I think I'll order one.
Want to get it up and running before summer is over ha ha.
Thanks for the link.
Orangebean wrote:
Something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Tools-UK-BEST-G4095-Eezi-Lap-Oscillating-Valve-Lapper-Tool-/181507212901?
I use a tight fitting short bit of fuel hose over the collet end of the valve with a stud at other end of hose into battery drill chuck. With a combination of a greasy finger pushing on valve head and pulsing the drill it gives pretty good results, not oscillating though so purists would object. When tested after with engineers blue gives a good consistent seat though.
That's pretty much how I do mine too, don't think my hands would work with a twizzle stick anymore, hooray for battery drivers,,
Nail on the head Chris, saves me my wrists.
I've always used the kids sucker arrow type for grinding valves in too.
None standard head gaskets for marine use Ferryman?
I don't know Simon, somebody will bring me the Mercruiser gasketset so that must be right, meanwhile the list becomes longer like diaphragm for the mechanical fuelpump, maybe an electronic ignitionpole instead of points, have to swap the crank too because it's balanced, the other one has a sort of counterweight between flywheel and block.
Not ready and done yet, we'll see where it leads to.
They are simple enough, marinised version of a small block Chevy. I've got a set of cam followers for one if you need them. My mate had a noise that sounded just like a tappet on his so changed the followers. They all looked fine but from the noise one of them must have been worn. After putting it back together the noise was still there until he started the engine without the drive belt to find the noise was coming from the alternator.....
Thanks Richard, appreciate it but I already have a new set taking a bath of oil in a soupcan (same guy as the gaskets).
The heads are main concern, they seem to be refurbished a couple of years ago and then left alone in a damp shed,
The wirebrush comes to hand, no problem but I also have to refurbish all rusted threads of sparkplugs, bolts etc. Not too difficult but it needs attention.
Last week I have de-rusted and painted the exhaust risers, pretty expensive parts if you want them new. All painted black as the block will be, my example is Marty's work on his engine, I like the looks of it. But what a difference in weight compared to our alu engines...
Tony.
Want to know why I needed another block?
The guy who sold it to me said he took it running out of his boat... (it's in the bin now)
If this is frostdamage, I wonder where coreplugs are for.
I'm ashamed to say it, never buy a block that is already been lifted out, at least not from Dutch. This is my 3rd miss.
Ouch! There's not a lot you can do with that, I somehow suspect that Radweld wouldn't work and welding cast iron isn't really an option. The one in my mates boat was running but not that well and he found rusty holes in one of the heads where the coolant passages had rusted through to the surface.
That was a Ford Windsor 351cu based engine though (in a Cranchi Turchese 24), the Chevy was in his previous boat.
That is all the blame to the coolingsystem itself, running (salt) outboard water through the engine regulated by a simple thermostat. Open-close, open-close, hot-cold etc.
It is not so long they finally have proper intercoolingsystems that run coolant. Much better for the engine and a more steady temperature.
I've worked in Spain in the yachting world, sometimes boats from new every three years you could renew the watercooled exhaust risers and elbows.
There was a remedy, after an afternoon ride pull it on the trailer, hang the drive in a barrel with fresh water and flush the system, what nobody does.
That's the way to do it if the boat comes out of the water, in the case of this one it sat at a salt water mooring all the time and only came out once a year to be de-fouled. He bought it in that state and it hadn't been used in 2 years. Got it at a very good price because of the water leaks which he sorted with a pair of replacement heads and a rebuild kit.
Our boat has skin tanks for radiators :) but it's only a 42hp diesel so there isn't much heat to dissapate in comparison!
42hp diesel? What's the use in that, you'd never be able to ski behind it?
During the build of our latest series ferries, bottomview.
These pipes keep the 400HP CATS cool. Don't know if it is recommended for speedboats...
Gilbertd wrote:
42hp diesel? What's the use in that, you'd never be able to ski behind it?
Sadly that sort of thing is frowned at on the canals...
Morat wrote:
Sadly that sort of thing is frowned at on the canals...
Only frowned at? Not specifically banned? In that case it might be worth a try, although I suspect the locks might cause a problem to the skier.....
Hahaha!
Well the speed limit is 4mph so I guess it's banned by implication.
Why thank you Mr Orange :)