OK, the saga continues.

When driving I get vibration at 45mph this is certainly not normal and goes away at 60mph. This is not really through the steering this is like the chassis is vibrating. I have changed the Transfer box and Viscous coupling today which has fixed the tyre scrub at low speeds but I still have the vibration.

I can't pin point when the vibration started on this car but as you can tell from the list below a lot has been changed.

November 2016 Collected car broke down with a bang on M25
1 New Front Diff Garage Replaced £400

December 2016 loud knocks/bangs from transmission, car feels like stuck in tram rails
2 New Union Joints Front
3 New Union Joints Rear
4 New Front Diff
5 New Rear Diff Fixed knocks and bangs from running gear, Teeth broken on main large cog. £500 odd including tooling.

Vibration felt at speed from around 45mph to 65mph, battery will not take charge
6 New Battery Fixed - £115

Vibration felt at speed and car still jumps around on the motorway likes its stuck in tram rails.
7 New Wheels and Tyres Fixed car jumping lanes on the motorway! £165

Rear Brakes making too much noise
9 New Rear Breaks and Pads Worn through pads, garages should have told me! £85

Car scrubs tyres when doing donuts in car parks :-) and have vibration at speed.
10 New Transfer Box and Viscous Coupling. Fixed car scrubbing tyres.

Update:

Car vibrates at around 45-60mph
11 Swapped around props, now part that slides inside the propshaft is by the gearbox, facing the centre of the car. Fixed vibrations.

OK so my money is on the alignment of the props, yes I didn't mark them before I took them off, I really should have. Do any of you think this could be the issue and as I didn't mark them is there any way to tell other then rotating 45deg each time until I have done all three other positions and road tested each time? Oh and i need to get a vibration damper back on the front diff. Surely it can't just be that!

Thanks again for you help chaps...

List of to do's...

Washer jet replacements
Full service
Blend Motors

Quick update, trawling the web someone found that the front prop was fitted with the part of the prop that slides from the inside was fitted at the front of the car against the diff. Apparently this causes vibration and should be mounted to the transfer box/viscous coupling. This car has been to two independent LR dealers and neither of them have spotted this!

Will swap it round tomorrow if it stop pissing it down and update this thread.

Also check the alignment of the UJ's. They should be at an angle and original props had one spline missing so they could only go together correctly, aftermarket ones don't so can be fitted together at any alignment. I bought a new one and found the UJ's were in line so split it and put it as it should be. As the P38 ones can't be changed there is no mention of it in RAVE but there is in the version for the Classic. See below.

Thank Gilbertd I always try to leave as much detail on my posts as possible to aid others in future so thanks for posting that, I had seen the 11:1 phase thing. When I changed the union joints I never dismantled the propshafts so that shouldn't have changed.

Is there any way to tell which bolts go to which holes on either side of the prop or do I have to do each one and test it? Basically it can be fitted in 4 different ways if that makes sense. Does that matter?

I think you'll find that the 4 holes aren't equidistant so they can only go on in two ways. They always say to mark them so they go back on in the same position as they came off but if they've been off before, you've no way of knowing that they were before. I don't think it's too critical, the diff and transfer box have been changed so you can't put them as they were before anyway. As long as the sliding joint is at the transfer case end and all the bolts are tight, it has got to be an improvement.

Yes that’s a good point!! Hoping I can do it tomorrow but my drive is welly boot muddy. Local garage has no power as our power supply is off tomorrow in the village. So unless it stops raining it might mean a trip out and £10 to a garage outside of town.

OK an update, today took it back to the garage that did the transfer box and viscous coupling and they kindly swapped both the diffs props around and refitted the balance bell onto the front diff.

This has cleared the problem, I doubt this was just the balance bell as the vibration was severe.

Your props should have the part that slides inside the propshaft towards the centre/gearbox of the car.

Edited to change diffs to props.

Ah, I often wondered how much of a difference those weights make and after driving a car where one had been left off, they do make a hell of a difference. What do you mean by swapping the diffs round?

IIRC he had a two pin at the back as a temporary measure?

Ahh I am a numb nut Swap around the propshafts. The sliding part should be nearest the gearbox/transfer box.

I was shooting back out before I updated the thread!