I went for Goodyear Eagle sport last year, I found 60 series tyres were much more readily available and cheaper so guess what I went for... only issue I have found so far is the spare is a swine to wrestle out of the boot. The speedo' is strangely more accurate now.

I put a passenger seat squab in mine recently and its the best afternoons work I ever did, sooo much better. Recommended. It does mean the seat has to come out and come apart, if its the full electric job then it is quite heavy. Well worth it though.

Could be clutch packs breaking up?

The bit that puzzles me is,....
This can also lead to an ice cream in pollution and higher fuel consumption in a major concern for road users.
?????? Must be something to do with the calorific values :)

I use the Portal button as well, just as I use the recent activity on LR4x4

I can see in the parts book it should be Part No. PQR101070 which has been replaced by PQR101150, but both are 80mm, be a bit surprised if there was that much play in the system? Better to get the 80mm if you can I would have thought.

I'd be tempted to try a lorry load one day, .... but no spare cash these days! ...
I can't imagine that people really pay these prices but they continually ask them, it seems to be in the psyche. Makes my life hard and usually just bite the bullet and buy stuff new. Bike wise don't know really, never went there, check it out on Donedeal.ie. One thing here is different though the market is much much smaller and that does bend the norm as we know it.

Jealous or what? ..... can't find spares cars here at sensible money This is typical of what we get locally

I seldom worry about the brand, I just check the engine (or whatever) oil spec meets the requirement and with ATF whether it is DexII or DexIII that is required. On the VI front 170 to 186 I doubt would be noticably different in our temperate climate. A few years ago I was left with a quantity of hypoid gear oil that was SAE 140 instead of the more usual 80/90, I took advice at the time and was told I would never notice the difference, so I have used it up over the years in all my Land Rovers. He was right, I never noticed the difference. Much more important to change the oil regularly and systematically before the additive components break down.

Sloth wrote:

When Ashcroft said it includes a heavy duty flex plate... They weren't kidding. If this thing cracked I'd be seriously concerned!

That's good to know, I may well end up using the kit

From all the digging I have done, making a sump has been the only sure way to go if you want to be sure on the bump stops it doesn't smash into the diff.

OK thanks, I hadn't picked up on that

Exciting when shiny bits turn up :) Is it necessary to make a sump? (If you prefer then that's great) I thought I saw that E46 part No. 1432705.9 solved the problem and there's a few on ebay??

Hi, on the compressor front I don't think I'll be much help, except to say that once overheated (and it sounds probable) the other end of the compressor will almost certainly need overhauling, something I haven't had a great deal of luck with as it goes, I recently bought a new Dunlop compressor from ebay for £160 and I reckoned that was cheap enough not to bother.

As for springs plenty of suppliers in the UK supply them (Dunlop OEM) for about £60 or £65, mine came from Paddocks about 4years ago. and hopefully I'll get another couple of years out of them. The only alternative manufacturer that seems to be popular (but much more expensive) would be Arnotts, but you are buying an upgrade. The Aerosus seems equivilent or even the same as the Dunlop for slighty more cash and a longer delivery (assuming you are UK based?) [edit, just noticed you are across the pond, probably comes down to carriage prices and import differences]

Well, that's great news...... I thought it was just me! I am sorry for your trouble Neil, I really know how frustrating it can be. I have had the same issue since I fitted a replacement mirror, it was 12 wire instead of 13 and I was told it would work fine, but it does the same,... ie goes the wrong way. And I have now learnt that the memory position can be set which I didn't know, not that that will be any use until I get a fully functionung replacement. Great stuff, thanks lads.

'Frank you could also get a (basic) key fob tester on e-bay for about £20'

Just to say that any high street locksmith would test that, usually for nothing FWIW

Well worth getting new inlet manifold gaskets btw, if they are original they will be cooked by now.

I did that job recently for a compression test and re-seated all the injectors while I was in there. The problem is that there isn't really any give or flexibilty in the pipes, it is much easier to access them in sequence, I can't remember where in the sequence no.6 comes but its one of those jobs (imo) where it is easier and quicker to bow to the inevitable in the first place rather than spend time trying a work around. Restart isn't difficult, theres a banjo bolt you slacken off and it primes most of it.

Always sitting cock-eyed is classic for a worn height sensor just btw

From a quick look at your video, the EAS message simply tells you that the air suspension has been disabled physically, as in unplugged, often done when the airbags are replaced with conventional springs.
On the face of it there is no other message about the immobiliser so it doesn't appear to be that, however it is almost impossible to diagnose at a distance. One thing to try is to disconnect the new battery and hold the leads together for a few seconds, it has the effect of resetting many of the systems. If that doesn't work then basic mechanics checks on the fuel and ignition system followed by Land Rover diagnostics, in the UK there are a network of independant specialists for the vehicles that generally work out much more reasonable but I dn't know if there would be anything in your area? The P38 is a mix of LR and BMW electronic systems and you really need someone with the right equipment.

quo> Haven’t seen a single P38 here in a month!
Well there are a few about, including mine, mainly on commercial tax though, although the farmers (who also benefit from the commercil tax) seem to prefer Mits and Toyotas. Check out the Donedeal site and you will always find a handfull. I am in North Tipp since 2016.

Road tax is a killer on these, my 2.5 litre is 1084€ annually, anything over 3 litre is a flat rate, I think €1800. Reason for acquiring the RRC 2 dr was that it qualifies for 'Vintage Tax' a much more reasonable 56€. There are quirks, for example quite a few people run D2's on vintage RRC chassis, (same 100 inch origins) because according to the rules over here the ID of a vehicle is 100% invested in its chassis. There is a guy not too far from me who specialises in adapting RRC chassis' to take the D2 running gear and then galvanises it and puts the D2 body back on. Equally there are a number with fudged papers. Alas there isn't yet a quick fix for the P38 yet, except perhaps wait till it is 30yrs old.
Unless of course you run a business, or are self employed needing a trade vehicle, in this case there is a flat rate of 333€. But that cannot then be legitimately used or insured for domestic / family. Insurance over here is a whole other nightmare. My RRC can't tow a trailer as a vintage, limited to 5k miles annually, and is a 'second' vehicle only.