Feeds the switch illumination on the hvac buttons? Asking for a friend.
Ta.

Back story- I got my 2001 dhse around 3 yrs ago, basket case really but I like a project! Renewed and serviced everything and coughed up for a nano, in it for the long haul! Anyway, ac didn't work and I knew nothing about ac so I booked it in for a regas at kwikfit around a year after she was put back on the road, vac test passed, regassed and lovely cold air but failed after approx 3 months. Left it around a year then booked her in at a local landrover indy, they found a leak in the condensor using dye and a uv torch. I renewed the condenser and the compressor to condenser hose and took it back to the indy, they confirmed no more leaks and regassed the system. Lovely cold air again but failed again after around 9 months. Left it another year until today when I booked it in at a local garage who, according to their website they can find any leak using nitrogen and a sniffer probe, Google EAC in telford, shropshire to see what I'm on about. They have said they found no leak for the 20 min test. Although my knowledge of AC is minimal the bloke in reception suggested a full ac service and dye added to the system to find the leak! I was a bit pissed at that comment so paid the bill, £70, and left. They did suggest also a longer pressure test for 35 mins and a full diagnosis, I also questioned that and got a load of flim flam, I knew more than him and couldn't speak to the tech who did the sniff test as he had "gone home".
They were my last chance really and I've lost any faith I might have had in garages. In all my life I've only gone to garages for tyres and even that's gone wrong twice, and tracking which cost me 2 ruined tyres in 4k miles.
So where do I go from here?
I'm handy, not too stupid (except car electrics but I'm getting better!) Can I DIY leak find on an empty system?
Tia
Chris.

That's what nano says.
Back story...
Book symbol up, nano says pot fault on rh blend motor. Replaced the pot on that yesterday, horrible job. That fault has now gone but a new one has popped up as per title. I should say that I removed the DISTRIBUTION motor first for a look see inside to check for wear, bad joints etc then put it back together making sure the gear arrows were enligned, then refitted it insuring that the flats were mated correctly. Then I removed and repaired the BLEND motor pot.
Refitted it all, plugged in the hvac and clocks but not the radio or upper console with the time clock in and read the nano. Pot fault on the blend is gone but I now have the title fault that won't clear on the DISTRIBUTION motor.
I've taken the distribution motor off again and opened it up, can't see anything wrong, enligned the gears again and refitted to the box, observing the flats locations(again). Flaps move freely and , indeed, I can see the box gear wheels moving through their full movement, air changes direction as expected, recalibrated a few times, fault won't clear, book up.
I have noticed, might be relevant, that if I turn the ignition off then on again the book has gone whilst the hvac motors are whirring away for maybe 15 seconds (self test?) Then the book comes back as soon as the motor(s) stop.
TIA.
Chris.

Not mine but a friends 2001.
He has got the dead motor off drivers side rhd and intends to fit the new but second hand one this Saturday, just over 2 days time. What he intends to do is turn the flap by hand to fully cold, connect the motor and send that to fully cold with the hvac temp button and mount it, the drive shaft has a 'D' profile and he will adjust the flap until the motor will engage then test for proper operation. I've never done a blend motor but I'm concerned that this is maybe a too simplistic method?

I've had my car for just over 2 yrs, restoration project. I fitted a new battery at the time and she fired right up(diesel), I've been able to remove the battery a few times since and never had any issues with alarms going off, eka code, immobiliser issues, nowt, just reset windows, clock and sunroof.
My question is that the red led in the fob flashes once when the key is inserted in the ignition (that's normal I believe) so what does that one flash signify?
Would the car still start if the fob got wrecked? Just remote lock/unlock wouldn't work anymore, which it does fine. I don't have the eka code but I'm guessing I'll never need it? Because a previous owner had it all disabled?

Only the front passenger door, it usually works if you leave the door open long enough say 15 secs. Guessing this is a sticky micro switch in the latch? Wondering if I whip the door card off can I free it off with a squirt of contact cleaner or has the latch got to come off to access?

How to change them? It's the front off side, leaking around the collet outside, pipe is good, clean and home fully. Does the collet need to be removed to change these seals? New seals arrived this morning , intending to do the job in a few days when I don't need the car incase something goes wrong hahaha!

Back story... the hs worked great up until the last couple of frosts earlier this year but then stopped. Decided to investigate this the other day. Both relays clicked so off with the plenum (much quicker to say then do!) And a poke with a dmm showed healthy voltage at both white connectors (disconnected) using both the battery and the ground stud for the hs. The ground stud looked a tad rusty though so I went to remove the nut and the stud sheared off. I'm hoping (bear with me here, I'm keen but green with leccy stuff!) that the stud was maybe causing high resistance and therefore the becm wasn't seeing the necessary load so it wouldn't work the hs. The ground stud is the only common connection under the plenum for both sides of the hs and as they both stopped working at the same time that sounds plausible to me.
That ground stud is now all repaired and finally to my question.
How can I test that the screen is now working? I have nano and a dmm and enthusiasm but that's it.
Googling about has led me to believe that a clamp meter may be useful?
Chris

It's the bottom of the first digit on the rhs so 16 would have the bottom of the 1 missing. Just fitted a new zebra strip from rpi engineering and followed their youtube video. Cleaned the contacts until they were spotless using contact cleaner and wooden cocktail sticks. Put it back together and the above problem, so took it apart again and found nothing wrong reassembled and the same fault.
I did the strip because in the colder weather it lost bits here and there but worked fine once warmed up or the milder drier weather arrived. I'd like to say that all the pixels were there on a warm day but I'm doubting myself now.!
Is it possible one of the copper contacts isn't quite as spotless as I thought? Or maybe I should clean the new zebra strip with contact cleaner incase that's got something on it? It came stuck to a piece of card with sellotape which came off in one piece. Run out of time today but thoughts welcome before I strip it down again hopefully tomorrow.

Got replacement cam kits for both front doors. I'm intending to do the passenger door first so if I have a problem and don't get the job done then I can still use the car. My query...Will the door still shut and stay shut if I need to drive it? and will it open again when I want to carry on with the job!
My father in law is terminally ill and on occasion I have to take him to hospital at short notice and the 38 is the only car he can get in and out of without too much pain.

Do all p38s have it? My friends doesn't so I was wondering if it just wants enabling in the becm which I can do with nanocom?

Just pondering really. A friend has a 2001 bordoux although it's not spelt like that I don't think. Mine is dhse so has heated seats, leccy seats, heated front windscreen etc. His has non of this and never has but his hvac has all the buttons for these features same as mine. Would LR fit the same panel regardless? Or his is a replacement from a breaker because the original failed?

Getting a bit fed up now of replacing front sensors, the only ones that aren't genuine wabco, had to destroy the fronts doing the ball joints nearly 2 yrs ago and fitted new aftermarket ones at the time. Doesn't seem to matter where I get them from or how much I pay they just don't last. Looking at a front and rear pair I have in stock they look identical except the cable length is an inch or so different but I'm confident that wouldn't be a fitment issue but is there another issue as to why rears can't be fitted to the front on a 2001?
Used wabco rears seem to be easy to get, fronts not so.

Goes up and down off the switch pack but only goes down on the door switch, won't go back up. All other doors OK. Likely to be the door switch itself? Are they similar to the switch pack switches in that they can be stripped down and the contacts cleaned, successfully fixed my sunroof switch doing that using martys guide off here.

Just seen on a Facebook group we r p38s, got both sides, limited stock, one pair only per person.

I've removed the headliner and sunroof to recover both but reinstated the sunroof cartridge only so I can still drive about. I don't think it leaked before, nothing obvious anyway but there was some staining. Anywhoo, we've had persistent rain overnight after a long dry spell and the wife was non to pleased to have water dripping on her lap at 5.30 this morning lol!
Back home after dropping her off and using a torch I can see water between the foam seal and the internal surface of the roof skin. The seal isn't sitting correctly in relation to the rest of it so I guess that's the issue.
Thinking about it further , im not sure water should actually get there unless there was a real heavy downpour that the drains couldn't cope with? All drains were cleared, they weren't blocked anyway tbf and the drain pipes reattached tightly to the cassette stubs, the waters getting in above the stub , nearside front, anyway , passed this foam seal. I assumed this seal was just for draught proofing but now I don't it must be a secondary water seal.
Bit of a bummer because it's heavy and it's got to come out again. Anybody know the part number for this foam seal ? I can't find it listed.
Tia.

I had me AC regassed by kwikfit 4 weeks ago, working great until I really needed it in the recent heatwave when it's died completely. How can I check if its lost its gas ,at home, or its another issue like something electrical? I have a home compressor. My initial thoughts were to power the ac compressor (2001 dhse) direct ,briefly, with the engine running to see if it then cools but chickened out in case I damaged something. I 'think' I can check for pressure by momentarily depressing one of the valves on the bulkhead? If no pressure or very little could I then pressurise the system with my compressor then spray joints with soapy water to test? But what pressure is safe? Very new to 38's and never had ac before so green with that too, do have a nanocom though!
Thanks a bunch for any advice!

Findings on nanocom when the lights came on were all sensors reading 2.35v except right hand rear which was zero volts. Dmm said 5 volts at all abs sensor plugs. All abs sensors gave a resistance reading of around 1000 ohms iirc (wrote it all down but lost the notes).
So I changed the right hand rear (rhd drivers rear) sensor, £25 island 4x4 one, no difference, nanocom still showed no voltage, lights still on. Next day, fiddling, a new fault popped up on the nano, front left sensor short, resistance reading was still OK so I ordered a cheap sensor off ebay £14 posted, just fitted that and the lights have gone out yay!
Nano shows no faults and , my query, voltage is now present on all 4 sensors?
Why would that be?
Wabco D 2001 diesel .

I'm normally parked on the level at home and other than slight ingress in the boot, the cabin stays bone dry. Yesterday I had to park facing uphill and we had heavy rain during this time, come late last night and I'm off to fetch the wife from work and instantly hear this gurgling sound which progressively got quieter after 5 or so miles, wife opens the door to get in and spots the water on the floor straight away.
So the noise I heard was, I guess, the fan I noticed when changing the pollen filters last summer, churning the rainwater that had got in there and flung it out the foot vent?
The p38 is quite new to me but can anyone confirm my thinking that rainwater in the fan housing can only get there via the pollen filter lid?
It's never leaked in before but this is the first time it's been parked facing uphill which may be a clue..
TIA.

Not really an issue just wondering really. The RHS (mpg) of the message center is reasonably bright but not as bright as the LHS, as I set off the RHS gets duller until it's unreadable. Next day it's reasonably bright again and so on.
I've no idea what or how this is illuminated but I want to find out what needs fixing if or when I remove the binnicle in the future.
TIA.