Never used to do this but now it does, engine not running, checking blend motors with the nano and that fan runs continuously while I'm plugged in.
Weird. It's not the ac fan. No faults logged, in fact, for the first time in 3 yrs ownership EVERYTHING works as it should lol! Just curious as it's never done it before.

Roger that, ta.

Gilbertd wrote:

The ones I use are from Mouser Electronics, Mouser part number 531-PT15GV02103A22ES (https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT15GV02-103A2020-E-S?qs=DPoM0jnrROVsaSbOUHWyTQ%3D%3D). One problem I found and it may be that you have the same, is that they are not quite as tall as the original ones, so it is possible for the gear to ride up the spindle so it no longer meshes. My solution for this is to put a couple of small plastic washers (from some bits left over from assembling a desktop computer for my step-daughter) on the spindle so it can't rise up and become disconnected.

I'm not 100% clear on this. Washers on top of the white gear that meshes with the pot gear , yeah?

Ha!, yes I had that a couple of weeks back, stuck on hot in a heatwave. Nano said rh blend pot fault but I'd only replaced that around 18 months maybe 2 years ago, motor ran fine but was noisy, got a couple of used units so swopped the motor but still the same fault so used a pot from the same unit I nicked the motor off and its been great since(touching my wood rimmed steering wheel...).

He has reassembled everything, unknown to me, and has lost interest for now investigating further. I'm sorta glad as its waaaay to hot to fiddle.

Or stick his hvac in mine you possibly mean.?

Use my hvac in his? Yes, I could, I don't think it would be an issue but I'll mention it to you anyway....mine is dhse so has heated screen and seats, his does not have those features being a bit poverty spec, liklihood of stuffing up my hvac is low? Or non existent?
I'm quite chuffed after 3 yrs of ownership that I've got everything working as it should, cd player, heated seats, sound system, ac,heated screen, heated mirrors, sub woofer, eas, switch pack, sunroof and all the rain water leaks sealed. Would hate to pop my hvac swopping it, which reminds me that's had a bulb kit,replacement screen and zebra strip too. Lol!

I had a spare pot so we tested that with the dmm and got consistent readings so soldered that in and.....its still the same! Percentages on the nano do not alter at all, bit of a let down. We can hear the motors and flaps move even when using the temp button on the hvac, same with the nano.
Had to knock it on the head for today. I'm thinking maybe the board that the motor etc is soldered to may be faulty, the cable is damaged somewhere, the hvac multiplug has an issue or even the hvac has a fault?
What would be the next logical move?
BTW, the fault won't clear with nano. Tried cycling the ignition too.

Okey dokey, do the arrows line up as original?
Contact cleaner didn't work unfortunately, we've tested it with a dmm as that's all we've got and it's showing a noticeable dead spot, still giving a reading but it doesn't alter in that 'dead spot'.

Cheers Richard, we replaced that pot last year? and I replaced one on my car maybe the year before. Mine failed just recently again and it looks like his has as well, both pots came from the same source but were free from a fellow p38 owner who had sold up. I suspect they are cheap rubbish and we had to fit them 90 degrees out from the arrow to get the full sweep too. Have you got a source for decent replacements at all?
I fixed mine by swopping the cheap pot for a used unknown but original one and that's been fine for a few weeks now.

At least I think that's what the nano said. Right hand blend motor on a friends 38 btw, forced it with nano and the percentages don't alter but fine testing the left hand blend at all percentages. We can hear the motor working though on both. Removing it and testing the motor with a 9v battery and all is good, no gears stripped either.
The board looks good too and as the nano doesn't give a potometer fault I'm assuming that is good. The cable going to the multiplug on the back of the hvac looks perfect too. He does have a spare set of unknown motors complete off a scrapper which we will fit later today(just the one, cut, solder, shrink wrap). Hopefully that will fix it and get the book off unless there is something we have overlooked! We are both a bit green on 38s but learning slowly lol!

Just had a quick Google and the post is on landyzone.

The following is not much help but I'll put it out there anyway. I'm 99.9% sure that mudsheilds are not required BUT they must be secure. Perhaps yours are in danger of dropping off and that's the testers concern?
Also, I've seen a post somewhere that an owner used 2 IKEA pie dishes, stainless steel too, that just needed a cut out for a perfect fit, iirc around £10 each? I can't remember if the dishes mod was only suitable for the fronts or the rears but I'm pretty sure it was for the rears only.
I read that after I had sandblasted and welded mine during the restoration otherwise I would have gone that route. A friend with a p38 has removed his, no issues at mot time.
A Google search should bring the pie dish mod up.

Being non the wiser when I did mine, I used spit. I also used genuine O rings as I was hoping not to revisit again! As it happened, I did have to revisit it again some months later but it was just the screw had worked loose, been fine for around 2 yrs now.

I used a black bin liner, cut open, and that will push under the heater box and out the door.
Not sure if it was necessary but I drained the rad into a clean bucket for reuse and got just drips from the heater matrix. Diesels don't have the potential for cooling system air locks though so I was happy to drain it down.

Great, Thanks.

First time attempting this yesterday on a friends 2001. We've got the blocks and a guide I've read throughly.
Using nanocom we sent it to high but couldn't get the nsr block in so jacked it up on the towbar to enable us to do so.
We messed about for ages and were getting constant variables with the nsr sensor so replaced it with a new one.
In a nutshell, the engine had to run a lot to power the eas compressor, turning off the engine caused the nano to shut down and need rebooting so we left it running. Hot sweaty day, irritable but we got there in the end.

It's easy for me to jack up the front and rear of the car over my pit and insert the blocks, no scrabbling underneath needed, I have pit Jack's.
My query..
If I disable the compressor, let all the air out of the springs then it would be easy for us to lift the car up and down as necessary to fit the blocks, read the heights and store them without the engine running and us having to shout over the engine noise(diesel). What I'm not sure of is would the nano still see the heights and store them etc with just the ign on position 2 ?
Just thinking aloud!

You need to state which engine for help.
Welcome to the site!

I lock mine permanently at motorway height which suits us .

Is it possible to extend the interior lights fade out? Using nanocom?