nigelbb wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
nigelbb wrote:
AFAIK no P38 seat has an inflatable lumbar support.
Yes they do, all of them with memory seats and possibly those with electric non-memory too.....
From the owners handbook
I knew that my Vogue has memory seats with adjustable lumbar support but didn't realise that it was a pneumatic inflatable thing. I thought that it was just moving a solid pad. I got my seat adjusted just how I like it years & years ago, stored it as Memory 1 & haven't adjusted the seat for many years.
It's unusually cold for Brittany at present (down to -5C) so I will wait until it warms up a bit before investigating seat wiring.
Maybe it is a moving pad? I've only moved mine twice in 3 years , I just recall a whirring noise and assumed it was a compressor.
I use my lumber support, great for my lower back pain. Some kind of compressor down there, I can hear it whirring away.
That's up to date with the current options in 2025?
I know marty was the man but no longer able because of work I believe.
There was a guy on hear who claimed to make or made a printed adaptor to take readily available micro switches but went awol .
I've seen a guy called rezremaps based in Portugal iirc, anybody used him?
I haven't really got an issue at the moment just an occasional sticky switch for the interior light drivers side and a non functioning same switch passenger side .
Curses! Forgot to leave the gap between quote and reply, again...
Lez wrote:
With Regards to water appearing in wheel wells ..my experience turned out to be me and valet staff with an over zealous power wash lance ! its fair to say the seals are a little 'soft' to cope with such water pressure..also I noticed when sat in the car at the car wash, drips coming down from where the headlining meets the window after the chap had given the windscreen top lip cover a good blast ! looks like the sealant has failed ? anyone with observations and solutions welcome.
Windscreen side trims off, 4 screws each side. Get a stiff thin paint scraper and tuck it behind the top trim, starting at one end, standing on steps helps, slide the blade to the passenger side (rhd) to release the clips, go steady, the trim is thin alloy and will kink if you lift it too high, lifting it a bit as you go will help you see the clips. Remove the roof rail inserts and throughly wash the now exposed areas. The sealant cracks in the recess that the inserts fit in especially near the front. So seal them up and around the windscreen too.
Putting the top trim back on is a bit more fiddling as I found. Enligning the clips with the studs then using the blade again, slide the clips the opposite way to clamp the trim tight.
He decided to carry on the investigation at home rather than come over to mine but during a phone call he found no issues obvious with the wiring, ohms were low with everything unplugged so the gone to ground thing was a red herring. Plugged the hvac back in and everything is working again he says. He has an aftermarket radio so I've suggested he pulls that out and check for an iffy red/white wire there before he puts everything back together ready to go back to work around 2pm today. My thinking is either whilst looking for a chaffed wire he has moved a dodgy connection enough to resume power back to that red/white wire OR the after market radio is pinching it .
Pete12345 wrote:
But does the RW wire show a real short to ground, or just the combined parallel resistance of the bulbs in the clock, fascia, switches, instrument pack and radio ? . . . . . i.e. zero ohms or a bit more ?
Rave shows the splices S209 & S210 in the diagrams but un-helpfully not where they are located
Oohhh...bit above my pay grade that one.
I didn't read the ohms just listened to the beeepp. It seems logical and easiest for the splices to be behind that upper panel but who knows.
Drained the water out of the spare wheel well, thought I had cured that problem, knocked out the bung and fitted a blank grommet in the hole with an X cut in it so water hopefully drains out and road spray won't easily get in. The metal looked bad but a whizz with a flap disc in a grinder showed it was rock solid so treated with anti rust paint then zinc rich primer. I'll top coat it in the correct silver at some point. We've had a bit of rain since this and it's dry still in there. Maybe more rain will show it isn't or maybe it was the jet washing it had a few weeks back that's overwhelmed the seal.
Had a new windscreen fitted too after a crack appeared.
Finally got round to spending a couple of hrs on this before lack of daylight stopped play..
All bulbs were blown but not a simple fix today as they still don't light up. No power on the red/white wire at c244. Looking at the wiring manual that wire also feeds the top switches and clock illumination so looks like an issue up behind the top facia somewhere as all that and the clock all light up.
I also discovered that the red/white wire at c244 (unplugged) bells out to ground!
If I'm seeing this right? That wire is chaffed through somewhere after the top switches but before c244. I'm not very good with electrics but I do find it interesting.
More play tomorrow hopefully.
I don't use anything, bit of spit on the air lines when reinserting that's all.
It looked clear to me at the time when I typed it, read your reply, read my post again and yes, I agree, nobody could work out what the hell I was asking lol!
OK...my friends 2001 hvac bottom row button illumination is temperamental, sometimes they lite up, mostly not. Points to a dodgy connection on the multiplug on the rear of the hvac. He struggles with free time from his job and would like to know which terminal or wire colour he needs to look at to repair at that muliplug. Being quite new to 38s he wasn't aware, neither was I, that online electrical rave stuff is out there, I've just downloaded that but also purchased a paper copy of both that and the workshop manual for us both to share. They won't come until next week. Trying to read the manuals on a phone is frustrating but that's all we both have until the paper manuals arrive.
Feeds the switch illumination on the hvac buttons? Asking for a friend.
Ta.
Maybe a dumb question but couldn't you use say solid core cable thus introducing some flexibility for future 'taking apart' shenanigans? I haven't had to repair one or anything similar on mine, just the footwell connectors delete both sides.
The 2nd link that Richard put up is the one to get, it does a great job and is small enough to use in situ, its one of my favourite tools.
I don't know if all model years have them but my 2001 has two complicated looking curly pipes either side of the fuel tank which I made perfect replicas of using that tool and forming the tight bends round a suitable socket using my hands.
A couple of minutes with an angle grinder on your old speaker will produce a strong magnet. I fixed one to a stick and use it like a metal detector to find dropped screws, nuts etc that evade being found by 'looking'.
Morat wrote:
Fair enough. I don't imagine the second totally torn speaker is helping much. I'll keep my eyes open for another one. Good news is that just be removing and replacing the CD player - it's now working again!
Don't get too excited! I've had my non working cd player out 3 times and had it apart twice and it always works again but not for long .
£6.95 for 2 sub speaker repair kit.
6 1/2" is the size. Comes with the glue too.
Just checked my ebay purchase history from 12 months ago.
I fitted those in my front doors, work great.
I am in no way an ice expert, in fact, I didn't even know what a sub or a tweeter was.
I also fitted new mid range speakers in all 4 doors. For the twin speaker sub, I fitted new cones with a kit off ebay, I would have fitted new cones for the front speakers too but they had seized, I didn't know a speaker could seize! They can be tested with a flash from a 9v battery from a smoke alarm for example, connect one way and the cone moves up, reverse connections and the cone moves down. Sub speakers were both good when tested with the battery but had rotted cones, 3 of the 4 mid range were seized so I replaced all 4, tweeters were fine.
Repair kit for both sub speakers was quite cheap, my sub amp was bolted to the side of the box so no issues there(2001 dhse) earlier models? had the amp fitted to the speaker itself I believe hence the mod that Richard did.
Ive just had the exact thing on my Defender 200tdi. No rhyme or reason to it, I tried the usual battery change(nicked the one off the p38) cleaned all earth's and other connections, some days it would fire up fine, other days just a slow no start crank, try again and away she would go. Reluctantly took the starter off, pig of a job, and the brush pack was a rusty mess, armature gunked up. Couldn't quite understand why it was fine one day and no good the next or even 30 minutes later. A good clean up and it's brilliant again.