I don't use anything, bit of spit on the air lines when reinserting that's all.
It looked clear to me at the time when I typed it, read your reply, read my post again and yes, I agree, nobody could work out what the hell I was asking lol!
OK...my friends 2001 hvac bottom row button illumination is temperamental, sometimes they lite up, mostly not. Points to a dodgy connection on the multiplug on the rear of the hvac. He struggles with free time from his job and would like to know which terminal or wire colour he needs to look at to repair at that muliplug. Being quite new to 38s he wasn't aware, neither was I, that online electrical rave stuff is out there, I've just downloaded that but also purchased a paper copy of both that and the workshop manual for us both to share. They won't come until next week. Trying to read the manuals on a phone is frustrating but that's all we both have until the paper manuals arrive.
Feeds the switch illumination on the hvac buttons? Asking for a friend.
Ta.
Maybe a dumb question but couldn't you use say solid core cable thus introducing some flexibility for future 'taking apart' shenanigans? I haven't had to repair one or anything similar on mine, just the footwell connectors delete both sides.
The 2nd link that Richard put up is the one to get, it does a great job and is small enough to use in situ, its one of my favourite tools.
I don't know if all model years have them but my 2001 has two complicated looking curly pipes either side of the fuel tank which I made perfect replicas of using that tool and forming the tight bends round a suitable socket using my hands.
A couple of minutes with an angle grinder on your old speaker will produce a strong magnet. I fixed one to a stick and use it like a metal detector to find dropped screws, nuts etc that evade being found by 'looking'.
Morat wrote:
Fair enough. I don't imagine the second totally torn speaker is helping much. I'll keep my eyes open for another one. Good news is that just be removing and replacing the CD player - it's now working again!
Don't get too excited! I've had my non working cd player out 3 times and had it apart twice and it always works again but not for long .
£6.95 for 2 sub speaker repair kit.
6 1/2" is the size. Comes with the glue too.
Just checked my ebay purchase history from 12 months ago.
I fitted those in my front doors, work great.
I am in no way an ice expert, in fact, I didn't even know what a sub or a tweeter was.
I also fitted new mid range speakers in all 4 doors. For the twin speaker sub, I fitted new cones with a kit off ebay, I would have fitted new cones for the front speakers too but they had seized, I didn't know a speaker could seize! They can be tested with a flash from a 9v battery from a smoke alarm for example, connect one way and the cone moves up, reverse connections and the cone moves down. Sub speakers were both good when tested with the battery but had rotted cones, 3 of the 4 mid range were seized so I replaced all 4, tweeters were fine.
Repair kit for both sub speakers was quite cheap, my sub amp was bolted to the side of the box so no issues there(2001 dhse) earlier models? had the amp fitted to the speaker itself I believe hence the mod that Richard did.
Ive just had the exact thing on my Defender 200tdi. No rhyme or reason to it, I tried the usual battery change(nicked the one off the p38) cleaned all earth's and other connections, some days it would fire up fine, other days just a slow no start crank, try again and away she would go. Reluctantly took the starter off, pig of a job, and the brush pack was a rusty mess, armature gunked up. Couldn't quite understand why it was fine one day and no good the next or even 30 minutes later. A good clean up and it's brilliant again.
Aragorn wrote:
yeah last few times i've used my big shifter spanner and just whacked it with a hammer.
This time i was probably not helped by the belt being covered in PAS fluid so it was probably slipping more than usual... I also couldnt remember what way i'm supposed to hit the thing, tried both ways. And with nothing to counterhold it was just not budging.
To undo is anti clockwise on the petrol, clockwise on the diesel.
No expert but modulation is vital on these, stalling, poor hot starting and erratic idle are often mod being out. The chains stretch and throw the timing out. Engine hot must read 50% or near as. Moving the fip towards the block brings it down from a higher than 50% reading.
I guessing I could install a bedroom ac unit myself then being plumbing and house electrical competent? The extension I built is a new lounge downstairs and our bed room upstairs. It gets uncomfortably hot in bed , window is open always at the back, shut at the front as that faces a busy road and the new craze of pop pop bang bang car exhausts stops me sleeping, rads are off 99.9% of the time too but we are never cold in bed. AC just in that room would be nice. Got a scaffold tower, fell off that once, hammer drills, stihl saw etc so no issues fitting one if it's legal.
I've loved anything mechanical, older the better since I was a nipper, clockwork stuff I like too, got 5 long case clocks here and 3 wall clocks which I usually fix over a winter when I don't like being outside. I'm no expert but I can strip, clean, rebush bearings and set them up quite well. I've no idea how people who can't do basic stuff with their hands survive these days, trades are shockingly expensive and no one round here seems to want to even wash their own car, mow their lawn, clean their drive or cook their own food anymore, they pay someone to do it which I find bizarre when they then complain about the cost of living.
Back to the room AC, and being too hot in bed thing, we have tried sleeping on top of the covers with naff all on but that's not a pretty sight for either of us when the light goes on. Best covered up!
Forgot to add to my moan about bad service above. The place I went to yesterday for the nitrogen sniff test had unplugged the lead from my dash cam, why would they do that!
It's hard wired in, cable runs under the windscreen piller trim and under the headliner and the cam fits nice behind the rear view mirror. USB fitting is extremely snug and only about 2" cable showing and its impossible, to me , to accidently disconnect it. They have two branches about 5 miles apart, I dropped off the car for the test at the nearest branch to me and didn't find out that they had took it to the other branch as "they don't have the gear at this branch and the nitrogen is not transportable" until I went to pick it up from the original branch they booked me in at. Didn't want me to see any thing unsavoury? 2 or 3 speed cameras depending on what route they took, hope I don't get a ticket with a poor photo!
nigelbb wrote:
I have owned my P38 for 13 years & every year or two the A/C needs to be regassed but then works well for a year or two. This year I was going to add some of the A/C leak sealant while having Richard's mobile A/C chum regass it but as he was on holiday I got the regass done at Kwik-Fit so will need to wait until next year to use the sealant now.
For getting a system regassed taking the car to Kwik-Fit or ATS (regass currently only £45 with Groupon offer) is the cheapest option but if there is anything beyond that then you are much better off taking the car to an independent auto A/C engineer. You should be able to use Google to find a local ndependent auto A/C engineer.
Never tried ats for anything before. 3 times I've had the 38 in for ac, the indy and the place I went to yesterday you have to leave the car with them and wait for a phone call to collect. I've no real idea of what they have done because I'm not there and I doubt they would let me stand in the workshop looking anyway. Kwikfit, however, when it had its first ever regass under my ownership, had the machine right by the roller shutter door so the bonnet was just poking in and I did have a little chat with the guy but just about the ac button' light off ac on thing' incase he didn't know. Then I wondered off and sat on a nice picnic table they had under a shady tree. Kwikfit have a time slot so I CAN be there and maybe be sure the correct amount of gas is put in without maybe going into the workshop and upsetting the H&S peeps if the ac machine is in the same place as before.
Gilbertd wrote:
You'll need a pair of these,https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Extractor-Condition-Adjustable-Coupler/dp/B083M2CV1P/ref=sr_1_21_sspa. The standard connection on all AC hoses is a 1/4" flare so you'd need the correct hoses too, although for the price you could even splash out and get yourself a kit like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/KATSU-Tools-Manifold-Conditioner-Refill/dp/B094R8NCVZ/ref=sr_1_5 so you will have the connectors and hoses.
The recommendation is not to use air to pressure test as it will introduce moisture which means you should really replace the dryer. However, there's thousands of cars that have been running around with no refrigerant in them for years before someone decides to sort things out and the while system will have been full of air all that time and a simple regas will do the job.
£50, that's not too scary really. I've ordered them. My system was empty for around 5 yrs before I got the car anyway. I was discussing the use of necessary 'trades' that we've had to use over the last 35 years and 3/4 of them have done a bad job or ripped me off as I later discovered. I'm self taught in most DIY things now around the home and competent at most things except AC!
A few examples..
When I was 19 I picked up a rear tyre puncture on my rd400 yamaha, nail into the inner tube, removed the wheel on the side of the road and walked 3 miles with it to the nearest tyre place. They patched the tube while I waited , pumped it up and I walked back to the bike and refitted it. Set off home and only made it a few hundred yards and it was flat again. Got recovered back home by my dad who had finished work by then and we picked up some tyre irons and removed the wheel again and the tyre to find a hole perfectly in the middle of the inner tube patch repair., and the original nail still in the tyre poking through inside.
I'm now 25 got my first house and a leak was evident on the roof near the gutter, rang a roofer from the local paper who came whilst I was at work to do the job after looking and quoting the day before. Said 3 tiles were cracked (concrete) and would need replacing and the under felt had rotted. A couple of years later the roof leaked again, same place so I decided to have a look myself, found the broken tiles had been siliconed together and a couple of plastic tesco carrier bags had been used to patch the felt.
I'm now 29 (not now now, I'm 61 but was 29 then) sold that house to buy the one I'm in now. Decided to have a swanky alarm system fitted after being accosted at the exit of B&Q by a canvasser. This actually made TV news and the guy was jailed over it, long story short, he fitted a timer in the alarm control box that knocked the system out when the warranty expired, so you had to pay for a repair, I and other victims didnt know this of course,but the nice guy did apologise for the malfunction of the system and after fitting a new battery and some other bits gave me a hefty bill but as a gesture of goodwill also gave me another 12 months warranty on the whole system free of charge as "these units never go wrong and I've just been unlucky"
15 months later and the system goes down again, getting suspicious I rang a different alarm company who found this relay and removed it and suggested I rang trading standards. I did so and they had already built a case up against him after numerous complaints.
The rangey needed 4 new tyres when I got it, shame really as they were all perilli scorpions with loads of tread but perished after standing for 5 yrs. National tyres had an offer on 4 new tyres with free mobile fitting so for convenience I had that done then drove the 2 or 3 miles to their local branch to have the tracking done as I had replaced every steering component with new during the recommisioning. Then straight to the mot place where she sailed through. The next bit is really my fault, but 4k miles after the new tyres and tracking were done I had my head under the front looking for an oil leak and noticed no tread at all on the inner quarter width on both fronts, the bit you can't easily see with the wheels straight ahead, but that's how it's always parked. Went somewhere else who said it was miles out and did it properly, been fine since. She seemed to steer fine with the tracking out but as it was my first 38 and my other car is an old defender I never thought anything was wrong.
Since my early years I've moved on a lot and built a two storey extention from digging the footings, casting the reinforced raft right up to the chimney pot and all internal work, everything except the plaster skim, just can't get the knack of that. Fitted new bathroom and kitchen, knocked down internal walls, built staircases, dry lined the cellar, made iron railings, laid a block paving drive, fitted a log burner, built my 110 on a galv chassis, restored a few Japanese motorbikes and hospitalised my self twice and set myself on fire once.
I know my compressed air will allow some moisture in(bad) but only for a day or so until I can get her booked in for a vac/regass (good? No real harm done?). I'm sure I read somewhere ages ago about someone using compressed air at home to find a leak but can't find it now. I recall the fittings needed caused some head scratching but was solved somehow. I've got pipe fittings, bsp, here and pressure gauges, hoses, pushfits, ballvalves etc so I could probably knock up the bulk of it just the port fittings to solve.
If I do get it regassed along with dye..what's the best method or stuff to use to get the old green staining off, it's everywhere. If I could pressurise the system at home I might be able to hear a hiss at 10bar but I could be talking ball clocks haha 😄
Or a way to use compressed air to find leaks? Got a compressor to get to 10bar. Guess I'll need special fittings for the ports.
romanrob wrote:
Clean the whole engine bay and then have a look for UV traces after running at pressure... I've had various leaks across a few LRs, condenser and hoses were the easy ones, but I also had a leak from a compressor, at the clutch
...Unless you find the UV trace then dont waste time, and just recharge in May each year?
I assume the clutch is pulling in as it should? If not then there are other fixes to consider
I've got a uv torch and had a look a few weeks back but there was green everywhere, even fingerprints, either from the last leak test and regass from the tech or from me working on the condensor/hose replacement. System works great, with gas in it, its 100% a leak somewhere which they, according to their website, would find.
If I get it regassed, with dye too, is it possible to differentiate new leaks from the old staining? Am I expecting to see a mist?.