Gates 3.2mm id is considered the best for leak offs, the same stuff is used for the map sensor (on the fuel filter housing) to the inlet manifold that rots too with age. 2 metres of tubing will do the lot easy.
The other 38 being the leaky fip one?
An update and another query...I checked the electrical connection again and gave it a good clean out with bits of mig wire and contact cleaner and it's not done it since so fingers crossed on that. However, the lower tailgate release is playing up more often now. I have an access finger hole to release it manually but had a look at the issue today.
When I first got the vehicle nearly 5 yrs ago the lower hatch was occasionally not unlocking but I thought it was sticky latches because they were pretty gungy and a good clean of them seemed to sort the issue in the main but still occasionally failed hence the drilled finger hole 'just incase'. Because the failure of the lower tailgate to unlatch is now becoming frequent I've had another look and the rod going to the right hand latch is not moving quite enough to release the latch. Is there an adjustment I can make ?
Thanks Pete. No motor noise at all when it plays up.
The lower tailgate does make a motor noise and fail to unlock occasionally but I've got a finger hole to operate it manually when that happens. The upper tailgate thing is new, never done it in the 4 yrs of my ownership.
I'll give the connectors a good looking at when I've a bit more time.
It's done it twice over around 8 pushes of the button in the last week so needs looking at , never done it before although the lower tailgate plays up more, I've got a finger hole to open that when/if it plays up. The upper always releases until now. Luckily, I read somewhere that a slap on or near the reg plate can release it and it does. Everything looks good but I lubed the movey bits anyway(lower tailgate, carpet panel removed). The button and spring is spotless ,electrical connections the same. Obviously being intermittent it's a pita to trouble shoot. The slap is causing whatever is faulty at that point to start working again, any tips on what needs looking at lads?
Pete12345 wrote:
There's also a recent discussion on LZ about failing leak off hose. It does seem to be more of an issue these days. Luckily my wife's FL1 TD4 still seems to be ok after 8-9 years with us.
That's me!
The leak offs just don't last on these. They aren't particularly easy to fit correctly either unless the manifold is removed except number 1. Number 1 injector sits in a well which collects quite a bit of fuel before it starts to run down the block, the others have no well and run straight down the block on to the pump. There's a good chance it is the leak offs if they've been on that long.
If it is the pump, a kit is available to hold the pump gear and thus the chain in place so the pump can be removed without disturbing anything else. Easily doable for someone like you. I was chatting to a diesel pump specialist maybe 18 months ago and he wasn't fazed by that pump and he said , but I can't remember exactly, £450-500 to rebuild but no new electronic bits as they are not available.
You really need to find the source of the leak.
Leak off pipes failing are common and run down from the head to around the pump so have a good look there. Another favourite place is the top cover on the pump, not done it myself but read loads who have and it looks simple enough, one special bolt has a weird head and a special socket is available to remove that one but a 7mm(iirc) can be knocked on to remove it and a standard bolt used to replace it. That top cover can be removed and the seal replaced without any issues all in situ. You can run the engine with a better view with the inlet manifold off, plastic manifold is on o rings which are usually reusable, alloy manifold on the earlier engine has gaskets which should be replaced. There is another seal on the pump top under and lower down from the one already mentioned. This has moving parts and needs to be refitted in exactly the same position too or the engine will run rough or scream it's head off depending how far out it is. This seal can also be done in situ. On the side of the pump there are two sort of lemon shaped covers , seals can leak there too, the outer one can be changed in situ but the other is up against the block and not accessible in situ I believe. If the car starts quickly when cold and slightly longer when hot then timing is OK. Chain stretch is a thing post 70k and that alters the timing and affects starting especially when hot. Moving the pump towards the block is the cure unless the chains are knacked usually post 160k. How far the pump needs moving can be done using a dti in the pump or, as I do, using nanocom to read modulation on a running hot engine, looking for 50% for best results, mine was 83%!
Yokes worn?
I've a 2001 dhse, can do that test tomorrow for you.
There's a thin tube, same size as the leak offs, connected to the egr, pull it off and the egr valve can't open to allow oil fumes into the inlet. That's it!.
If the mot is a worry, stuff something up the tube to block it and refit it.
I'm retired too but the wife isn't so I have to take her to work.
Shropshire, it was doing it when it was cool (5am start) and when it was hot on the same day. Stuff does play up on mine when it's cold and even stops working altogether when it's freezing like the front door interior lamp micro switches and the book pops up more frequently too when it's freezing but they all sort themselves out when cab or ambient temp rises. I'm hoping that the 2nd replacement pot on the rhs blend has finally fixed the book coming on when it's cooler.
All my book issues have been with that one until this distribution oddity. It was 6 degrees at 5am earlier this week, no book, 21 degrees midday and still no book. Maybe a foreign something got stuck in the external gear wheels and it's now fell out...dunno.
I do come across bits of crumbly headliner foam that went all over the dash top when I removed the liner for a recover occasionally.
Well...in good 'old p38 fashion, the fault has not reappeared since I posted!
I know exactly what you mean.
I used countersunk bolts in stainless which just about give enough clearance for the body coloured trims to go back on.
It's been 3 yrs since I did mine and I can't remember specifics of the job just bits and bobs. I remember replacing the 4(?) Bolts holding the side extensions with ss too.
There are clips top and bottom which must be fitted, especially the top ones, to hold the skin tight to the steel to stop the lower tailgate rubbing when it's opened. I had to make new mounting points for the rear bumper and weld them in , horrible job which meant lots of trial fitting to get right. My extensions were in good nick though.
My bumper was also badly bent down on the top face rhs, God knows how that happened, but that took hours to straighten out. Front bumper top face was bent up and wedged tight to the headlamp trim, also taking ages to straighten out.. back to the rear bumper...I 'think' I had to counter sink the plastic slightly to get the counter sunk hex drive bolt to sit a little lower so the trim would go back on but can't be sure now.
That's very useful Ta.
I did spray the blend motor pivots when I had that out with silicon spray. Never had the distribution motor out, its always the rhs blend that's given me trouble. I'll pull it to bits when I've more time and lube it up, ta.
I've had no book symbol up for a month or two now after changing the pot on the rhs blend. Last two mornings have flagged the book up after the self test and it defaults to screen only which makes sense from a safety point I guess, I cannot change air direction.
However, after the brief journey to work and starting her up again a few hours later when coming home....no book symbol and everything is well again.
Why would a fault exist first start every morning but not on the 2nd ,3rd,4th etc of that day? Ambient temp is fairly constant so heater box 'tightness' being my first thought, seems unlikely.