Just had a quick Google and the post is on landyzone.

The following is not much help but I'll put it out there anyway. I'm 99.9% sure that mudsheilds are not required BUT they must be secure. Perhaps yours are in danger of dropping off and that's the testers concern?
Also, I've seen a post somewhere that an owner used 2 IKEA pie dishes, stainless steel too, that just needed a cut out for a perfect fit, iirc around £10 each? I can't remember if the dishes mod was only suitable for the fronts or the rears but I'm pretty sure it was for the rears only.
I read that after I had sandblasted and welded mine during the restoration otherwise I would have gone that route. A friend with a p38 has removed his, no issues at mot time.
A Google search should bring the pie dish mod up.

Being non the wiser when I did mine, I used spit. I also used genuine O rings as I was hoping not to revisit again! As it happened, I did have to revisit it again some months later but it was just the screw had worked loose, been fine for around 2 yrs now.

I used a black bin liner, cut open, and that will push under the heater box and out the door.
Not sure if it was necessary but I drained the rad into a clean bucket for reuse and got just drips from the heater matrix. Diesels don't have the potential for cooling system air locks though so I was happy to drain it down.

Great, Thanks.

First time attempting this yesterday on a friends 2001. We've got the blocks and a guide I've read throughly.
Using nanocom we sent it to high but couldn't get the nsr block in so jacked it up on the towbar to enable us to do so.
We messed about for ages and were getting constant variables with the nsr sensor so replaced it with a new one.
In a nutshell, the engine had to run a lot to power the eas compressor, turning off the engine caused the nano to shut down and need rebooting so we left it running. Hot sweaty day, irritable but we got there in the end.

It's easy for me to jack up the front and rear of the car over my pit and insert the blocks, no scrabbling underneath needed, I have pit Jack's.
My query..
If I disable the compressor, let all the air out of the springs then it would be easy for us to lift the car up and down as necessary to fit the blocks, read the heights and store them without the engine running and us having to shout over the engine noise(diesel). What I'm not sure of is would the nano still see the heights and store them etc with just the ign on position 2 ?
Just thinking aloud!

You need to state which engine for help.
Welcome to the site!

I lock mine permanently at motorway height which suits us .

Is it possible to extend the interior lights fade out? Using nanocom?

Lots of bolts on these things are overly long.
Is it an option to mole grip the other end and unscrew the broke bits that way?

Thinking about it some more, aren't the two nylon pipes with the return bends either side of the radiator/slam panel, connected to the rubber hose off the fog lights?

It's been a while since I've had the bumper off but I think there are two tubes per lamp, one drains moisture and the other is a breather to let air in, stops them fogging up.

Loose hoses could be off the fog lights.
Front bumper removal is easy really as they never seem to be rusted up like the rears.

Guess? You probably have to link the wires together?

The door hinges can wear and drop which causes binding on the door striker.

I've taken the exterior door handles off before to fit new cam kits and door cards to replace speakers so that part is familiar at least. Thanks. I think I need a couple of spare latches to have a go at fixing first so I don't end up stuck. Am I right in thinking all LH and RH latches are the same on all years except, I think, connector blocks , which is easily sorted. Might be thinking about door mirrors though!

Is it a faff getting the latches out? I've got a back up vehicle, 110 defender, but have to use the 38 quite a lot as my father in law is poorly, sort of nearly end of life poorly and I regularly have to take him for scans etc, he can't get into the 110, p38 is ideal on access and the leg room. It'll be a job for the warmer weather anyway, just trying to get an idea of how long it would take to remove the latch , clean it up a bit and reinstall. I'm handy with the tools , keen amature if you like!

I'll happily wave a flag of support for a YouTube video!
My switches are notably troublesome as the temp drops too. Around freezing, non of my interior lights work when either front door is opened, around +2 degrees the front passenger still doesn't work but the drivers one sometimes does but is sluggish.
+5 degrees passenger still no go but drivers is instant. Only on a hot day does the passenger light work and even then not always. Almost like they just want a clean to fix but it's never as easy as that I suspect!

nigelbb wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

nigelbb wrote:

AFAIK no P38 seat has an inflatable lumbar support.

Yes they do, all of them with memory seats and possibly those with electric non-memory too.....

From the owners handbook

I knew that my Vogue has memory seats with adjustable lumbar support but didn't realise that it was a pneumatic inflatable thing. I thought that it was just moving a solid pad. I got my seat adjusted just how I like it years & years ago, stored it as Memory 1 & haven't adjusted the seat for many years.
It's unusually cold for Brittany at present (down to -5C) so I will wait until it warms up a bit before investigating seat wiring.

Maybe it is a moving pad? I've only moved mine twice in 3 years , I just recall a whirring noise and assumed it was a compressor.

I use my lumber support, great for my lower back pain. Some kind of compressor down there, I can hear it whirring away.