Morat
Do check carefully. My drawing shows 67 mm / 2 5/8 " pipe diameter and 88 mm / 3 1/2" hole spacing with 9 mm Ø hole for my year 2000 4.0 V8.
If you get stuck I can quite easily make you something along the lines of your E-Bay find.
Clive
I like the split clamp Strange Rover found, much easier than DIY, but it will need to be opened out to 67 mm or 2 5/8 inches. My Google-fu can't find one that size. Looks like there is enough metal in the 2.5 inch one to file or machine out to fit the Range Rover pipe.
Clive
Presumably you are talking about the clamp on the pipe side of the junction with the centre box.
I had this issue when the stainless steel silencers were fitted back in 2015. I designed a two piece clamp comprising 6 identical pieces of 2 mm sheet steel which could be welded together as a pair of half circle clamps with fork and blade style connections where the bolts go through. Every near half circle had a bolt hole in it but the three pieces comprising each one were offset so the middle section poked out one side and there was a gap between the bolt holes on the other. Classic example of design from my Over-Clever period but the intent was to produce something that could be made with hole saws and a drill by normal folk.
No great issue to make one for you, or send a copy of the drawings if you fancy DIY and know someone to do the weld together bit, but I can't guarantee the fit as I never made the thing to verify my drawings. On something that simple they should be right but...
In the event the exhaust place got clever with their gas welding gear and stuck a pair of L shaped brackets on the pipe sort of aligned with the bolt holes on the silencer box. Lots of exhaust paste stopped the leaks. Which barely made it to next MoT before I had to get clever with stepped suds to overcome the fit errors and stop the leaks properly.
With 20/20 hindsight I think they would have done better to leave the L brackets separate and loosely bolt them to the centre box before fixing to the pipe with a clamp and finally bolting up when the brackets were secure. I imagine a Mirkalor style clamp would be needed to clear the bolt heads. U bolt style would almost certainly get in the way and a jubilee style clip just won't be strong enough to pull the L brackets hard onto the pipe.
Clive
Ended up paying £282 to AXA for 5,000 miles.
Clive
Further to yesterdays post I spent a bit of time on the comparison sites and got rather better results. Decent selection around £270 to £320 for 5,000 miles year.
Just need to hack through the jungle of excesses and add ons. AXA seem to be the lowest although the logic of offering 4 sub-brands with different costs for what appears to be the same thing defeats me.
Car is year 2000, 4.0 HSE.
Clive
Just had a phone call from A-Plan.
£394 this year, up from £250 last year. Annoying as A-Plan have generally been good the last few years. Excellent deal on my two rather esoteric motorcycles earlier on in the year so I was hoping Range Rover would be the same. Lady said lots of insurers will no longer cover Land Rovers of any sort due to high costs or repair and high theft rates.
Not due until 8 try October so time to get searching.
Clive
Good deal from ATS, which I didn't know about.
However ATS don't do leak detection. Put mine in on Thursday to be done, wandered off to town for the suggested hour and came back to find nothing done. Told it had a leak and to take it to a garage to find it and get it fixed. I know the guy they suggested so no issues there but annoying all the same.
Another micro leak as it took nearly 3 years to go down. Previous filler put the dye in so hopefully there is still enough residue to see where the leak is.
Clive
Clive
Optikool has a light green tint and is said to be solar absorbing and reflecting to reduce the amount of heat getting into the car on sunny days. Being approved for use on windscreens it can't be very dark. 75% transmission measured the approved way is the minimum allowed. Due to the way human eyes compensate for light level changes that looks a lot lighter than the raw figures suggest. I'd be unsurprised to discover that Optikool is in the 90% transmission region.
If you have a tint layer applied to it it will be much darker than you'd usually expect from the tint alone.
Clive
Gilbertd wrote:
I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on a sump plug, most people just do it up tight......
Bounces up and down.
"Me, me, me".
Set rather lower than factory theory too. Always anneal copper washers. Even if brand new.
Especially on alloy sumps. Don't know enough swear words to properly express my loathing for rethreading sump drain holes when Gorilla Garages Inc have hauled the plug up to one micro-newton short of stripping so the verdammn thread comes out on the plug. Sorting out a repair bush thread compatible with the OEM plug can demand a certain malevolent creativity.
Clive
Chrisp38
Thanks for the tip.
A bit of extra space would still be handy but as it was just doable with my tools I never bothered to look into moving the coolant tank. Frankly if I'd twigged it just clipped in I almost certainly would have shifted it. Probably just assumed it was bolted in via a flange underneath so hoses would need removing to shift it.
RAVE spoils us in many ways because it's so good that following the words and music just works (pity Mr Haynes wasn't paying attention). With the coolant tank so easy to shift and space so tight I'd have expected a note on the "unclip coolant tank and move over for easier access" lines.
Clive
Never needed to move or cut anything the three times I've done mine. Getting the pipe on does require verbal encouragement.
I use a Williams split hex ring spanner officially designed for brake unions, the split makes it easy to pass over the pipe. Head is smaller than an open end and the angle of mine is favourable for clearance.
Clive
Blast of switch cleaner aerosol into the switch aperture and a few presses on the control panel appears to have fixed mine.
Mine gets used about twice year at most so contacts had plenty of time to get dirty. I suspect regular exercise of all the centre console switches, once a month or so might be good idea to keep the contacts clean and all working. Yet another of my good intentions that doesn't happen!
Clive
The wire is a pest. Can't recall if the connector is small enough to go through a ring spanner of the right size for the hexagon. If it isn't best to get a proper split ring spanner or split socket with offset drive so as to have good purchase on the sensor body.
The big imponderable is how tight years of heating and cooling have made the sensor in its thread. I'd need to be confident that it's not gone super tight before trusting to an open end.
Bought a relatively inexpensive Hilka branded set of two offset square drive split sockets to pull the Lambda sensor on my Yamaha GTS which fitted far better than I expected given the price and worked well. Set comprises one 1/2" drive and one 3/8" drive. But that Yamaha is silly low mileage, despite being 30 years old, and the sensors are known to come out easily if factory fitted.
I'd expect the P38 sensors to put up more of a fight so would push the budget to cover a proper split ring spanner from a good make.
I was impressed with the Gedore ones I bought to do the oil coolers and pipes last year. £60 odd for two spanners isn't cheap but they fitted really well and got things undone without drama where an open ended spanner would almost certainly have distorted the hexagon unions. Gedore claim to make their spanners more accurately than other makes. Something I'm willing to believe on the evidence of that pair.
Clive
Harv
I'm pretty sure the hoses I fitted were supposed to be a decent aftermarket, priced that way for sure, but who knows when they just come loose in the delivery box with other odds'n sods. Full complement of single turn spring clips and the top set did have the H markings which may or may not have meant something.
Richard
Learned that thing about the spring clips having to be dead square maybe 40 or more years back. The embarrassing, knock on a door and beg for kettle of water, way! Had about 3 goes to get that one just so when I fitted the hose set. Learned how well enough to get it OK first time after changing the thermostat and it's been acceptable up until now.
The spring clip wasn't up to it on the stub of the Airtex water pump I used when the original died. Jubilee didn't quite do it either so that got a mikalor which sorted it. All in all a curse heavy process. Probably got another mikalor the right size in stock so maybe give that a try tomorrow as earliest a hose set can arrive will be around this time next week anyway. Or do the single use crimp up style work well in such areas. Not my favourite idea but I have a kit purchased for a customer job.
But I guess I should invest in a new set of factory hoses anyway. In my book a decade or so is a good life for "rubbery stuff" in general.
Clive
I've "always" had a water drip from the thermostat to water pump hose junction but its gotten much worse over the last couple of weeks. Now its stopped raining I can see its leaving serious evidence directly below the thermostat when parked up. Big panic when during Mondays under bonnet check showed the header tank level to be well down, maybe 1/2" deep at most, after no more than 100 (ish) miles since last look. Topped up, tank lev el holding up when cold but the hose to thermostat joint is still dripping.
Following my standard practice I changed the hoses immediately after buying the car. Reputable source but, as I recall things, unbranded. I was never totally happy with the stub fits but generally everything worked except for that darn drip. 11 years down the line I figure it's time for new hoses again so which breed to get. Genuine LandRover or are BritPart OK these days. The £90 difference will be worth it if it stops the drip.
The car got a new genuine thermostat about 5 years back so pretty sure the case on that isn't cracked.
Currently the hose clip on the offending joint is one of the single loop spring variety, as came with the hose set. Would a jubilee or mikalor type do a better job of sealing things? I'm not convinced about screw up clamps on plastic stubs as quite serious pressure can be generated. The spring type are supposed to maintain almost constant pressure when temperature variations lead to expansion and contraction of the plastic stubs. Which seems safer.
I guess I could just change the clip but if I'm gonna get a sleeve full of water I want my moneys worth.
Clive
Sheesh guys there are easier ways to commit suicide!
Ages ago was standing beside the right front corner of the car when the bag just let go all on its ownsome! One heck of a scary bang. Instant levitation and "that close" to needing clean pants.
Out of curiosity I did the maths as to how much energy was involved and how dangerous those things are if they let go in the open. Sobering, getting close to hand grenade without the shrapnel. Not quite as bad as an over-pressured tyre letting go, which has been known to kill, but absolutely not something to do for fun.
I guess dumping it in the lake, or big water tank, like the scuba folks do might bring the risks down.
Back in the day the firm wanted me to use 4,000 psi air and nitrogen so I got to sit through the safety videos.
Clive
Done.
Clive
As pretty much every car with a separate DSP amplifier is known to give problems in later life I cannot understand why none of the Far Eastern suppliers make an affordable generic "universal" replacement that can be programmed to match pretty much any car.
Fundamentally the output side of a DSP amp is simply a bunch of class D amplifiers each driving a single speaker over a pre-programmed frequency range. The input side is basically either just an analogue to digital converter if the head unit output is analogue or a simple digital pass through if the head unit output is already digital. The bit in the middle just chops things up to get the right amounts of the right frequencies out to the amplifier driving each speaker.
Not forgetting the all important modifications and twiddly bits en-route producing all the (inaudibly different) special effects needed to look good on the specification sheets. A car, even a large quiet car like the P38, is pretty much the poster child for poor listening environment. Hard to think of a worse location than the bottom of the door for speakers! About the only way to make something sound seriously different is to wreck any pretensions to sensible audio.
So all you need is an amplifier box with enough outputs to handle all your speakers, suitable wiring to connect the car controls to the box and a phone app to program things. My iPhone does a very nice job of correcting my totally crappy hearing into something half sensible, the world is silly noisy using Airpods in transparency mode, so something to program a generic DSP isn't unreasonable.
I imagine that coming up with the mucked up sounds just like the original (Harman Kardon?) box if you load up with half a million quids worth of audio spectrum analyser might be bit more challenging. But making something that works with a decent sound will be pretty trivial these days.
Far as I could see from occasional looks inside the box most of the DSP amps were made in a manner intended to conceal the fact that, engineering wise, they were cheap crap with lashings of specmanship to convince folk they were paying for a real deal.
To modify a sometime well known quote from Peter Walker, head honcho of Quad Audio in their glory days
"If electrons could read we'd have serious hysteria induced distortion."
Peter was referring to the outpourings of the Audiophile press and the adverts therein but it it seems equally relevant when applied to DSP and in car audio in general specifications.
Clive
Pete
Total current through LED and the BECM / CanBus defeat resistor is still significantly less than that through a normal bulb so heat dissipation is still rather less. As I recall it from when I added separate sense resistors to use simple LED bulbs in the reversing light the total current needed to tell the BECM that the bulb is OK is around 1/4 of that actually drawn by an normal bulb when illuminated. I think I played around with the resistor size so the BECM still noticed that there was no bulb fitted so, hopefully, a dead bulb would be flagged up.
Objectively it seems rather high but presumably there is reason why a much lower current wasn't considered satisfactory to confirm that a continuous circuit existed. Probably linked to the characteristics of the 4 terminal current monitoring transistors in the BECM that actually drive the lights.
Headlamp LEDs (now illegal) draw enough current for the BECM to accept them as being on anyway.
Clive
I used bit of cellulose thinners to shift some old tacky bits of glue. The orange stuff remnants scrubbed off fine with a stiff brush.
Don't be stingy with the stickum stuff and make sure you have plenty of overlap to pull round the edge. I only used one can of the Martrim glue and didn't allow enough overlap. 3 or 4 years on its coming unstuck again so redo is on this summers job list. Appeared to stick good and proper but it didn't last.
Rolled my material round an over length broom handle which made it much easier for two people to handle. If you possibly can get a third or even fourth helper. Pretty sure trying to do the job with insufficient assistance was a major reason for mine not turning out too well.
Don't breathe the glue fumes. Inspector Wasp buzzed over, settled in the middle and promptly keeled over. Not sure if a full 6 point landing was managed before expiry. Fortunately the touch was light enough not to stick.
Clive