The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
639 posts

Mine is clearly toast. Impossible to get it all working with the zebra strip. So I gave up and got a used working one. Which will do the deed.
For now!
Hopefully when the ribbon ins that one dies it will accept a zebra.


Interesting to hear that the E section profile is little on the loose side. Far as I can see the overall thickness dimension is, for all practical purposes, the same as the three rib W section I have which is a very nice fit. Stiff enough to be stable but not so stiff that the adhesive doesn't hold it when pushing on. I never managed to get the foam stuff to work. Usually either tore for pushed off part way round.

I guess the shallower central rib of the E section doesn't really get squidged so only the outer ones provide support.

I imagine it's made that way to provide bit more tolerance or "squidge range" when used as a draught excluder. My 3 rib W has, probably, about a mm or so of useful squidge range before it's effectively solid. Many naughty words when I had to re-work a door frame to use it for its intended purpose!


Make sure the thread is clean and use something to stop corrosion or galling so you can get them out if you ever need to. Thinned down, or plate spanners aren't very strong. Don't want to have to resort to making extra long jaws with provision for a keeper across the end so they don't spread. I usually use the weakest form of loctite for that sort of thing.

If you are thinning a spanner start with a decent one. Last time I tried that with a "don't know where it came from cheapy" out of the bottom of the toolbox it turned out to have a crack inside the jaw forging. So I made a plate one.

Usually the simple approach works just fine but sometimes the Head Gremlin turns up with a full squad and, metaphorically, says "hold my beer!".


W profile draught excluder strip is somewhat more resistant to mangling, or being pushed off, when fitting as the ribs that do the sealing are stronger than simple foam but still able to deflect as you push things together. Looks rather like a multi-Vee (serpentine) ancillary drive belt. Always seems to be made as a double width that can be split down the middle if its too wide.

I bought a lifetime supply from LiDL some years back under the Powerfix branding. Current version, branded Parkside, has dual strips of 4 ribs rather than the 3 ribs on the ones I bought but I imagine it would work as well. Around £6 or £7 off E-Bay.

I imagine there are other brands of similar stuff. E section has a shorter central rib but may well work just as well.


Thanks for that info. Ordered one.


Mine certainly pre-dates the ones Marty had made. Looks to be a standard size rather than a special so it's pretty certain it doesn't fit as it should.

Time to order another one then. E-Bay pot luck or RPI? RPI claim to have sold lots in their You-tube video.

Total PIA to get the pcb on mine clean. Probably because that end was still well stuck down. So glad I had one of the "tube of glass fibre" brushes originally developed to shift rosin and flux deposits from multi-core solder joints hanging around.


The heater control display finally decided to go into permanent missing pixel mode last week so I fitted the zebra strip I'd had lying around for several years when pixel problems first arose. (Which promptly fixed themselves once I'd gotten the strip and made sure the battery was always well up. Magic!)

Unfortunately I can't get a full set of display elements to come up. Despite several cleanings and fitting tries the bottom half (ish) isn't co-operating. A bit of judicious thumb pressure on the bottom of the screen brings up some signs of life suggesting the zebra strip isn't settling flat on the contact areas of PCB and display.

Any ideas as to how this could be fixed? Looks to me that the zebra stip I have is little too tall and a little too thin to work properly in the space available hence it could tilt when the display is tightened down. Are all the zebra strips the same size or could my early E-Bay sourced one be wrong?


Realistically stainless steel is the only option certain to last well on a low annual mileage vehicle. If you don't get things good and hot on a regular basis internal condensation is certain to start eating the silencer box from the inside out. Doesn't help that most, if not all, of the aftermarkets are wadding filled systems which not only take much longer to warm through than a baffle system but also concentrate the corrosive stuff from the exhaust. Found out the hard way that handling wadding blown out of a failed tailbox with bare hands wasn't a good idea. The crap collected in the wadding decided that starting to eat me was a good second course! Distinctly stingy and a major pain to scrub off.

After a "best we can get"aftermarket steel set of tailboxes from the local exhaust guy failed after around 3 1/2 years with the original RR centre box starting to go I put a Double S centre box and tail sections on. About 2 1/2 times the price of "best we can get" from the local guy. So if 3 1/2 years was an appropriate life I'm due to break even sometime next year.

As Dave says way too noisy at first but it does quieten down over the years. If you do buy a Double S system note that mine didn't come with clamps. Which wasn't noticed until the old system had been irrevocably cut off. To make matters worse the exhaust guy didn't have the largest size in stock so we had to wait a few hours for one to be delivered. I ended up fitting stainless steel Mikalor types as Id on't approve of the usual Benelli (U bolt) style.


Looks to be geographically limited "not for sale or use in UK, Europe, Canada, Mexico or USA" from the BMI website. Download probably has location checker.

Software is on annual subscription so odds are the 160 aussie dollars price is for one year sub. Soon adds up to a heck of a lot. May be worth it for pro but but not home user.

Dongle is probably a cheap wireless or Bluetooth enabled ODB transmitter receiver unit. All the intelligence is in the software on the phone.

Gotta wonder where the makers got the software from. List looks too comprehensive for in dependent development given the potential market size.


Well that was "interesting". Went the long and expensive way round but finally sorted.

Turned out to be throttle cable adjustment being way out. As it has been in all 11 years I've owned the car. It always seemed to run OK so I never bothered to check the setting it arrived with, basically 3/16" free play with the adjuster close to the end of its travel. With it that far off book I guess the MAF and TPS, which according to RAVE has an important part to play in setting fuelling all through the range, were barely on the same page and drift over the years finally put them at odds.

After ordering a MAF from Land Rover Direct on the 7 th, because the Island 4x4 site, wasn't working for me, I decided to try things with the throttle adjusted up as far as it would go. Still 1/8" play but I was able to get a kick-down with full blooded stamp on the accelerator. As I had a new cable in stock and the one fitted was out of adjuster travel I decided to change the cable.

Bad idea!

2 days of struggle swearing and trying various things finally got the old one out. If I ever pull another one out I shall immediately cut the inner cable and chisel off the end of the rubber sleeved plastic thingy inside the car. With the knob on the end gone a few swift taps with the special offset drift I welded up for the job pushed the thing out far enough to grab on etc outside easy as could be. Given how impossibly stubborn mine was initially I expected to find the support tube in the body corroded to hell and gone. In actuality it was perfectly smooth. I reckon the difficulty of removal is due to the knob on the end of the plastic bit swelling the rubber ridge sitting on the inner end of the bulkhead support so much that no power on earth will pull it through.

New cable went in easily. I used red rubber grease rather than the RAVE approved liquid soap. Persuading the little plastic bung to go into the hole in the accelerator cable took another half day of braille manipulation. If you don't get it right first time it's fatally easy to spread one of the prongs a little bit. With predictable results. I found it best to tape the other end of the cable up to compress the boot to its minimum length so there was some excess cable inside permitting free movement of the plastic bung. Wooden block under the accelerator pedal held it out of the way at bottom of its travel. No way that I found to stop the pedal going up the left sleeve of my overalls every time I moved.

New cable had just enough adjustment to get the gap between cable selector and actuator down to about 1 mm. Leading me to think it was a pattern cable.

Bonnet shut, interior plastic re-fitted, tidying up nearly done when the penny dropped. RAVE shows the cable bracket running straight up and down. Mine was at an angle leaning towards the throttle actuators. Surely the bracket holes aren't slotted. Diving under the bonnet again and making with a spanner proved they were slotted. Setting the bracket vertical restored the cable adjustment to something sensible with the RAVE specified zero gap between cable and acutator.

Which I could have done in the first place if I'd gone back to first principles and verified all the set up rather than assuming "it was OK, now something has gone wrong". Considering thats the first thing I do with someone else's problem its distinctly hoist with my own petard. Sigh.

Quick test run shows car is now much more lively than it ever was and the gearbox much more responsive to the throttle. It always seemed to drive decently before but very much non sporting. As I expected from a softly tuned V8 in 2 tons of permanent four wheel drive car with the aerodynamics of a shed. Seemingly effortless 80 mph motorway cruise was clearly deceptive.

Just to make a bad weekend and start to this week worse the poxy SRS light has come on. Double checked any connections that might have gotten disturbed to no avail so hopefully it's an intermittent issue returning after 5 years.

Foam in the heater duct joints had gone so I used some self adhesive ribbed door/window sealer got from LiDL a year or three back 'cos it might be handy. Just the job. Before fitting I went round the ends of the duct with duct tape leaving about half the width upstanding. 8 snipe cuts, two at each end of the corners, let me fold the tape down over the draught sealer so things didn't get caught up on the edges of the other parts of the duct. The duct slipped in so easily that I had to look three times to confirm it was in.


Reason for suspecting the TPS is that the car feels as if it's not reading about the last third of throttle travel. Drives normal up to around half and a bit but the ECU doesn't seem to be seeing anything beyond. Feels just like a carburetted engine with restricted fuel flow so it can't keep up with the engine demands when you want high power and high revs. Something I've had deal of experience with on motorcycles.

I expected that MAF issues would throw up all sorts of continuous codes rather than a fairly rare intermittent.

Next step is to try driving with the MAF unplugged.


Managed another 100 or so miles today with a reasonable amount of motorways and fast road. Gearbox adaptives seem to have gotten their act together but the beast is still reluctant to deliver power above about 4,000 rpm and no proper lockdown surge above 3,000 (ish). I did manage to get him delivering power past 4,500 a time or two tho'.

Feels a lot like he's not getting full throttle. Did the obvious check and verified full movement on the actuator. Adjusted up the cable as far as it would go but there is still 1/8" gap between the cable sector and the actuator proper. Never touched cable since I bought the car so adjustment probably isn't the issue. New cable in stock.

Only fault Nanocom picked up when we got home is :
PD172 = Mixture adaptation Failure FRA
Bank 1 Drive Cycle 3
Occurred 4 times, signal too high, intermittent and not present
All the values look sensible at idle.

I'm thinking Throttle Position Sensor issues rather than MAF. Is there a way of cleaning the innards?

Chucked a bottle of injector cleaner in on the off chance. Can't hurt. Hopefully I can fit in bit more running tomorrow.

Spending £17,000 on an Audi A6 Allroad for the official unofficial kid sister ought to be worth a few brownie points! Which I desperately need as she is here for month whilst her bathroom is rebuilt!


After the best part of 150 miles today at "normal for Sussex" speeds the beast is running much nicer. Changes all come when they should and throttle response is decent. No booting today though. Not with Teddy the Malinois riding in the back. Pissing off a retired Police dog seems less than wise.

Hadn't realised how much things had dropped off over a summer of (mostly) shopping runs of 4 miles each way (ish). Decent bit of motorway run due on Saturday so we will see how he reacts to that.

For now I'm going with the adaptive systems getting out of kilter.


Made time for half an hours worth of Italian Tune-up which seems to have bought things back more or less under control.

Slightly scary as Crowborough is not only at No 1 on the list of roads to do for the "Driving with Eyes Wide Shut Club" but also the newly formed "20 is Plenty Everywhere Fraternity" with the executive committees clearly having a joint run this afternoon to confirm things. Not ideal environment for booting a P38.

The beast was very unhappy about kicking down the first couple of tries but after the fourth time of asking it swept happily up to 5,000 before changing. Ordinary booting had a few stumbles initially around the 4,000 rpm ish but it would push through. After half a dozen tries it seems pretty much back to what it was. Still seems to be a bit iffy on letting go of lock up and not as spritely above 70 as I think it used to be.

All in all it seems that the adaptive set-up in the gear change control had gotten its knickers firmly twisted and gone into Great-Grandad mode.


Fluid levels OK, drip then intermittent stream.

I'll check the kick down thing next time I go out, probably tomorrow.




Petrol V8 4.0 year 2000 so Motronic nor GEMs.

No fault codes showing on Nanocom.

Revs just fine in neutral. Far as I can recall it has in the past happily spun past 5,000 revs before changing up but I just don't drive like that. Down here aggressive driving just gets you to the next queue a bit quicker.

Wondering if it's a kick down issue. Does the car need to be in the kick down range to go past normal change points?

Going under to check fluid level in a couple of minutes.


Booted the beast for a quick overtake yesterday and it ran up to 4,000 (ish) revs and just stayed there. Engine control module clearly holding it back despite foot on the floor waiting for the gearbox to get its act together and change. Lifted foot a bit and it changed gear OK. Possibly a touch harsh but it changed.

Tried couple more times and same thing. Won't go past 4,000 rpm whilst waiting for a gear change. Whether drop down for overtake or change up when driving. Changes just fine in normal amble mode. Usually between 2,000 - 3,000 depending on slope.
Pretty much same in sport mode.
Is this just a matter of the adaptive settings needing to be re-set or something more serious. I'm going to lift it up later and check the gearbox oil level despite no sign of leaks.
Sticking caliper to fix first though.

Car has been on short run duties all summer which can't be good. Hence sticky caliper.



Do check carefully. My drawing shows 67 mm / 2 5/8 " pipe diameter and 88 mm / 3 1/2" hole spacing with 9 mm Ø hole for my year 2000 4.0 V8.

If you get stuck I can quite easily make you something along the lines of your E-Bay find.


I like the split clamp Strange Rover found, much easier than DIY, but it will need to be opened out to 67 mm or 2 5/8 inches. My Google-fu can't find one that size. Looks like there is enough metal in the 2.5 inch one to file or machine out to fit the Range Rover pipe.


Presumably you are talking about the clamp on the pipe side of the junction with the centre box.

I had this issue when the stainless steel silencers were fitted back in 2015. I designed a two piece clamp comprising 6 identical pieces of 2 mm sheet steel which could be welded together as a pair of half circle clamps with fork and blade style connections where the bolts go through. Every near half circle had a bolt hole in it but the three pieces comprising each one were offset so the middle section poked out one side and there was a gap between the bolt holes on the other. Classic example of design from my Over-Clever period but the intent was to produce something that could be made with hole saws and a drill by normal folk.

No great issue to make one for you, or send a copy of the drawings if you fancy DIY and know someone to do the weld together bit, but I can't guarantee the fit as I never made the thing to verify my drawings. On something that simple they should be right but...

In the event the exhaust place got clever with their gas welding gear and stuck a pair of L shaped brackets on the pipe sort of aligned with the bolt holes on the silencer box. Lots of exhaust paste stopped the leaks. Which barely made it to next MoT before I had to get clever with stepped suds to overcome the fit errors and stop the leaks properly.

With 20/20 hindsight I think they would have done better to leave the L brackets separate and loosely bolt them to the centre box before fixing to the pipe with a clamp and finally bolting up when the brackets were secure. I imagine a Mirkalor style clamp would be needed to clear the bolt heads. U bolt style would almost certainly get in the way and a jubilee style clip just won't be strong enough to pull the L brackets hard onto the pipe.