Given the dimensions I can easily make up bush removal and insertion tools for £ very reasonable. Only simple turning jobs after all. Laser components appear to be taking the P with their version:- http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6505 at £200 (almost). OK its got a (tiddly little) thrust bearing in one nut so its um "sophisticated" but not an extra £170 worth over a simple bush and allthread kit used with smooth finished well greased washers.
How much pressure does it take to shift the front ones? My press is only 12 tons. Still a decently scary bang when well tight stuff lets go.
Clive
Clive
Pity you are so far away 'cos I have small hands. Can do both the HT lead change in situ and coil pack removal with very little verbal encouragement.
Clive
Mine behaves itself up to 20°C on auto, which is as hot as I ever run it.
Have you checked the cabin temperature sensor fan runs properly and that there is no fur or dust insulating the sensor itself. Both my SAAB 9000 hatchbacks came with similar heat distribution issues. Cured when I unjammed the fan on one and cleaned out seriously furred sensors on both. Big balls of lint'n crap on them. I suspect there is a fallback setting inside which limits how hot the face air can get if the system inputs are out of range. SAAB certainly had one.
Clive
Hi Mark
Disk skimming is a DIY job for me as both my lathes can swing a Rangie disk. Probably use the Pratt & Whitney as that has a lower bottom speed. Just need to remove the wear ridge really. Got new factory disks and new pads for front and rear at a very good price shortly after I got the car but front pads are lasting very well. Rears were shot.
Saw the headline refurb service on E-bay. Very good price but by the time I've driven down there and back fuel costs for 400 odd miles means it comes out about the same.
Clive
Hi Mark
Hopefully get to look at it next week if I can sort things out with Ben.
If I buy it plan is to have Chris do the heads then I need to find good home for my big red beast now that Mike has gone all funny and bought a VW Toerag. Sounds a OK ish buy and gets me off the expert (???) consultants seat. Which didn't stop him bending my ear on t'dog'n bone for half an hour this afternoon about the aftermarket tablet thingy its got in the dash.
What happens really depends on what the green one is like underneath. Big Red needs a good going over with a wire brush underneath followed by painting and his front disks skimmed to get the MoT man and his advisories off my case. Can get his headlining done local for £300 odd and he's pretty much set to go up to 100,000 miles on normal maintenance. Financially it looks close to a wash after budgeting for airbags et al that are certain to be needed on the green one in the next 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Going to boil down to how much I want Vogue creature comforts and how much I don't want to be crawling under on scrubbing duties.
Glad your wanderer has finally made it to safe harbour and looks to be sound.
Clive
For not much more money this one ;- http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201610269157972?model=RANGE%20ROVER&make=LAND%20ROVER&postcode=tn62pd&onesearchad=Used&advertising-location=at_cars&radius=100&fuel-type=Petrol&price-to=5000&sort=distance&page=1 looks a much better bet. But not a Vogue. Just down the road from me, lots further for you.
Actually some choice in not too silly miles, say 80,000 - 110,000 ish, not too silly price, say £2500 to £4000 cars in my neck of the woods right now. Which is unusual.
Clive
Chris
PM sent.
Had a chat with my local 4x4 man and he says same thing about corrosion. Also reckons that it depends on which head gasket has been used s well as the anti-freeze. Later gaskets (composite?) and wrong or infrequently changed anti-freeze being bad in his experience.
Clive
Mark- pm sent, eventually haven't quite got the hang of the system.
Hi Mark
Thanks very much for the heads up on that car.
I've had chat with Mike and we are going to have a serious think about it overnight. We both have stuff on and may not have time to do the gasket before the new year but if Chris can do the job for what Mike considers reasonable money I'm pretty sure he will go for it.
I'm seeing Mike in the morning, catch up tomorrow.
Clive
Orangebean
Yeah pretty much so although I'd rather not have to deal with a headgasket level issue as I can't get a car into the garage at the moment even though the world most over-engineered garage door is sort of working at last. Object is to minimise the chance of getting issues I've not seen or having to sort things that have been Bubba'd or he will have me bouncing back and forth over 20 miles from my place to his like a demented Yo-Yo in horizontal mode every time anything tricky surfaces.
Pity he didn't come up with this idea last month then he could have bought the really nice one at Haisham, only three miles away from him. Or, more likely, I'd have bought it and sold him mine.
Clive
Gilbertd wrote:
ere's a classic one to avoid unless you want to spend a lot of time getting it sorted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-4-6-HSE-V8-P38-Vogue-Alloys-Autobiography-Wood-NO-RESERVE-/122228188219?hash=item1c755e243b:g:0PcAAOSwTA9X4Zd- (although Chris will probably go and buy it.....).
Be worth a punt if it hadn't been mucked up with coil springs and I could get in my garage. £3,000 and time spent would almost certainly get it good. Hafta be prepared to spend on the do it right do it once principle. Pensionable age parts aren't really the problem folk think. But you must be prepared to be ruthless and strip hmm maybe parts out whilst you are in there. Trying to save £1,000 by cutting corners will haunt you. Easy for me to say 'cos I can afford to do things that way! But not going there on someone elses car 20 miles down t'road! Sorting his Bridgeport was enough nightmare for me.
On the higher mileage ones its finding thems that had major work done properly thats the issue. Most of the high mileage ones are on skimp schedules so lord knows whats been half overlooked, called good enuf for now or outright bodged where it can't be seen. I know where I am on the 65,000 to 80,000 mile cars.
Clive
Thanks for that guys. I think I've got him calmed down a bit and the nose ring in (bit of a bull & gate type). When I posted was looking at 6 hours in the car to see "real nice" (?) 135,000 mile car at £3,500 (ish) if cash waved around and driving it home for him that day if he bought it. Figured we are both old enough and ugly enough to avoid getting caught with major mechanical issues but I wanted some idea as to what the second round of aged out / end of life parts was likely to include so I could make sure that things due soon had been changed. Absolutely didn't want to risk catching the "still good looking but we will sell it now before it needs money spent" car. That one was from a serial owner semi-trader type too "best P38 I've seen" quote. Oh Yeah! Got my wiskers twitching. You can do quite well from such folk as they see more cars and have a vested interest in picking decent ones but they have to unload everything without loosing out so their mistakes just get passed on.
Anyway back on familiar territory as he's agreed to hang on for something like mine was when I got it. Looked after, normal servicing to good standard but not very far into the replacements cycle, if at all. Hopefully steering clear of the P38 values are rising mob. Mine was £3,000 in 2011 with 77,000 miles so they are holding their money.
Clive
My pal Mike has pretty much decided to get a P38 for second car / caravan tug duties. Estimates around 3,000 miles a year, keep at least 5 years. I've been roped in as the expert consultant to ensure he doesn't buy a money pit. Pretty much settled on a Thor V8. Even at V8 thirst he will save a bundle on payments towards the His part of His'n Hers cars. Given the fairly limited price range covering nice cars on wildly different mileages I'm wodering what the spending on parts over and above ordinary servicing is for various mileages.
I suggest he waits to find something in the 65,000 to 75,000 (ish) miles range which will cost a bit more but, judging by my car which I got at 77,000 miles with pretty much everything except one airbag original, around £2,000 should cover the expected replacements up to 100,000 mile range.
However he is also looking at cars in the 100,000 to 140,000 mile range which claim to have most of the first stage part replacements covered. But 100,000 to 140,000 mile cars seem to be £1,000 to £1,500 cheaper. I'm my view such cars are likely to be false economy but I don't have a handle on what extra replacements are likely to be needed and what the risk of serious engine work is.
Clearly anything beyond 150,000 will be just too leggy and has a good chance of needing engine work in his ownership. Which isn't going to be viable as Mike's looks at engine work like Marty does. Patch it up till the next pop isn't gonna happen.
Clive
All back together but now the compressor and one of the solenoid valves are arguing over what the correct pressure in the system should be. Compressor fills tank OK, he comes up fine to normal ride height then one of the solenoid valve does the click click click thing letting a bit of air out whereupon the compressor cuts back in for about 30 seconds to bring it back up to pressure. Compressor stops. Valve releases the air. Compressor starts and so on.
Only thing I can think of is that I hit a wrong setting on the Lynx box of tricks when trying to depressurise. I investigated a button called transport mode which I discovered drops it down to access hight and inhibits the system. No way on the Lynx software to bring it out so I assumed simply removing the inhibit and using as normal was right thing to do.
Under orders from her ladyship to go to Welwyn tomorrow so I have to fix him.
Clive
I guess you too can remember exactly where things were before they got put in the safe place. Which is frustrating.
Clive
Welp that was embarrassing!
Got the seal kit, desiccator kit, compressor kit, air valves and pressure gauge from Simon, the original landyair man. (If you are gonna do a job do it properly I always say.) Rebuilt the valve block yesterday. Wotta lot of rings, reckon the Range Rover EAS designers dad must have owned an O ring factory. Fitted today and he still went down on the right front corner. After a pause for coffee and appropriate incantations I dug out the Lynx to de-pressurise the system. OK. How! Surely that POS box can at least manage something that simple. Eventually decided that the only way it would do it was to put things into transport mode. That got the air out but how we are going to get him out of transport mode and back up to normal is gonna be a whole'nother thing.
Dragged the suitcase compressor over and a bit of experimentation with valve positions and pipe connections disclosed we had got a leak in the pipe to the right front corner. Nicely audible with the engine stopped and the extra delivery of the suitcase compressor. Turns out that somebody got careless with the flame when warming up the aluminium nuts on the airconditioning system to encourage them to come undone and frazzeled a section of air pipe down the side of the radiator too! Ordered up a length of pukka nylon air pipe and metal Noregen fittings. Don't trust the cheapy plastic fittings or the soft pipe for exterior and wide temperature range use. Hopefully be able to replace the whole length so I won't need couplers but best to be prepared. What's annoying is I have some pipe and a pair of connectors in stock, left over from when I did the air bags about 3 years back and wanted to be prepared in case I had to cut the rear lines. Put them somewhere safe. Real safe.
Still waiting for the new airline and connectors will give me time to do the desiccator and compressor rebuilds. Coming up to 90,000 miles so probably due.
Clive
Looks to be getting towards 3D printer time to do replacements for all the ageing plastic bits that break when you try to get them out. Can't be much longer before the price /performance / finish / material choice on hobby level printers gets to the point where that is practical.
Heck I'd drop a grand or two on that sort of toy if it could do something useful without "only a hobby guy would accept it" futzing, persuasion and coercion. Be nice to work material putting on fashion instead of taking off. But then I'm a toolaholic from way back with two decent size lathes, a Bridgeport, shaper and other metal mangling necessities in the man cave.
Clive
Chris
I think the Simon is the man at landyair. I'll give him a ring tomorrow. Google searching gets confusing as it also pulls up 4 x 4 spares for when searching landyair.
Sloth
Thanks for the reminder. Will verify what happens with doors open tomorrow when neighbors are out so I can run the beast without upsetting everyone. I knew I'd forgotten to check something properly. Fairly sure it stays up with doors open but didn't leave it long enough for a proper check.
Clive
Got about 3 hours on it this afternoon. As expected front airbags are still properly seated so the problem occuring after jacking up to look at the brakes was probably coincidence. Can't find an air leak tho'. System lifts fine when the tank is full, holds up for a couple of minutes then sags to the bump stops at the front over a couple of minutes. Solenoids and valves can be heard clicking as it goes down suggesting that the driver pack and solenoids are OK. The back will stay up so long as the ignition is on and engine running. Turn the ignition off and within a minute or the back end is on the bump stops too. Some clicking from the valve block too.
I figured that valve block rebuild is next step. Time to order a kit?
Clive
Thanks for that Chris. I should probably get the bits in stock even though a quick look this afternoon after the rain stopped and before it got dark suggests the compressor is OK. 10 minutes to bring the tank up from emty with door open. Both ends lift with a charged tank then front sags as the air runs out. Rear stays high as long as the engine is running but sags in a few minutes after switched off.
Time to get up close & personal with RAVE and figure out how to run the EAS bit of Lynx. Given that Britpart chose not to issue a manual thats going to take some work.
Clive
Clive