I used black Loctite silicone sealer on my one last time I did the job. I had the inlet manifold off changing the gasket so used that around the waterways and end seals on the gasket, made sense to use it as well on the plenum chamber.
Craig.
I'm surprised they managed to get a two wheel rolling road actually rolling. I thought it would simply turn the other wheels and drive itself off the rollers?
Seriously not a good thing to try though. That is why Land Rover say to remove prop shafts should you ever use a towing dolly.
My MOT chap said to me, long time since I tested one of these, does the ABS light go out when you get moving? Yes I said, over 5mph once it gets a good signal from each wheel sensor. Right oh, he said and off he went for a drive with the decelerometer sitting in the footwell.
Craig.
What, the pump runs every 20 - 30 minutes with the ignition off and parked up?
Sagging suspension overnight is normally air leaks. Air springs get perished or the valve block seals get old.
Craig.
Just thought I'd post a conclusion to my window switch issues.
I have just got back from a week away in Devon and while there, thought I would have a look at the FaceBook market place and there, 8 miles from where I'm staying is someone selling a big box of P38 spare parts. There is a complete air compressor and valve block box, air flow meter, air cleaner box, new fuel filter, new oil filter, various light fittings, interior fittings, a good remote key and lots more besides but more importantly, a window switch panel was there.
He was asking £140 for the lot so I didn't argue, bought it and last night when I got back home, plugged the window panel in, tried it and all the windows and mirrors are working fine again.
I'll test the air compressor and if good, stick it on ebay and see if I can make most of money back on selling that.
At least I know the switch panel I have is in someway faulty even though it seems to give all the right indications under testing. If Marty is interested in taking a look at it I'm happy to send it to him as it will only be going in my spares box then likely in the bin a few years time.
Craig.
Thanks Richard
Just had a read of Robs post and it does sound very similar. I've just been sitting down with the board again and testing things, continuity on the tracks and voltage when connected to the power supply. Still not seeing anything obvious with it.
Tempted now to just run a drill through all the through holes and solder in the wire links to eliminate that as a cause.
I'll persevere for a bit longer then I'm away from home next week but if I get nowhere and you don't mind posting your spare switch pack, it would be useful to see where my problem lies. I only need to open a window a bit then close it again to prove the point then pop it back in the post to you.
Cheers
Craig.
Hi Richard.
Yes, the sign up procedure was very straight forward. Received the email, clicked the confirm link and everything working fine.
I used to love my LSE and one I really wish I'd kept. As you say, they did suffer from rust a bit, I had to weld the rear seatbelt points in the arches just before I sold it and the rear floor was going the same way but what a lovely vehicle. Mine was 1993 too with the earlier dash and I fitted the later moulded bumpers to it as the steel ones started to show their age a bit.
I'll see if I can sort out posting pictures here and put a couple of my current P38 up so you can see the lack of specification!
Craig.
Do you mind if I jump on this thread rather than start a new one....?
I am having issues (I think) with my window switch pack. Short story is I bought a Range Rover and the windows did work when I got it but they have since packed up. I have found a dodgy door outstation with some transistors that had blown apart so I have replaced that but still no joy.
So far I have been concentrating on the switch pack but have opened up the BECM for a look, no signs of water ingress in there.
I have....
Pulled the footwell kick panels off and disconnected all the plugs in there. No signs of anything amiss but gave everything a spray with some switch cleaner then used a silicone spray grease and plugged it all back together again.
Looked at the diagrams in RAVE and traced the cables from the switch pack connector to the BECM connector and buzzed them out with a digital multimeter. Good connection on the 3 signal cables. Checked the grounds, have a good ground at the switch pack and BECM, get 11ish volts at the light bulb connection when the lights are turned on and get 13v when the ignition is on for the power cable. All three signal cables seem to have around 5v on them when the ignition is on and the switch pack is unplugged.
I've connected a 12v power supply to the switch pack circuit board outside the vehicle. I get 5.3v on the output of the voltage regulator and then it gradually drops across the board as it passes through various resistors. I get 5v on the output of two of the signal cables and about 3v on the last signal cable. Pressing the buttons on the panel makes no change on the signal cables but then I'm only measuring voltage. Not sure if there is a hidden digital signal in there that I would need an oscilloscope to observe?
I have removed all the switches from the board but the contacts were very clean and I get a change in resistance on the various chip pins as I press the switches so they are working well.
I have drilled through and soldered in links to a number of the copper plated through holes or via's as some looked a bit corroded. I have bridged one dodgy looking track with a cable.
I have replaced the failed door outstation with a much better looking replacement.
Unfortunately, still no working windows. Not sure where to go from here. I didn't really want to spend between £80 and £100 for a replacement from eBay but maybe I will have too and see if that solves the problem?
Craig.
Greetings all
Just joined up here after hearing about this forum from Richard G on the RangeRovers.net forum.
I have had a number of Land Rover products in my time, a classic Range Rover LSE, 4.6 Autobiography P38 and now own a series IIA 109" Land Rover, a 1955 series one 86" and a 1997 P38.
Clearly I have joined this forum because of the later 1997 P38 I have recently purchased.
It's a 4.0 litre version with only 80k miles on it and as basic as they came. I think the original buyer (Rover cars at Longbridge) lost the options sheet when placing the order so it really has nothing on it. No sun roof, manual adjust seats, cloth seats, no Air Con, no cruise control, no heated screen, pretty much the vehicle itself is all it came with! A complete opposite to my last Autobiography with it's TV's, Playstation and everything on the options list ticked.
I bought this one from the Facebook market place locally and it has been sitting in the corner of a yard since Summer 2018 when the air suspension failed and the owner gave up on it. I got it pretty cheaply including delivery to my house and have slowly been putting it back together again.
Air suspension was easy, replaced both perished front air springs, new piston seal in the compressor and that is all working again now so I have been doing the brakes, suspension bushes, steering ball joints etc to get it ready for an MOT hopefully not too far away.
Electric windows are my major headache at the minute so sure I will be asking about them and many more questions along the way...
Craig.