The reverse disc worked really well. A bit of room to swing a mallet!
Although it didn't show beforehand one of the lower joints was really shot.

A brief update on the dust boot saga. All coming apart reasonably well. The reverse disc removal "tool" for getting the hub out of the carrier worked well. Getting the carrier off the ball joints was a struggle with a forked splitter and when the top ones finally let go they stripped the innards of the joint out and I then had to try a 3 leg puller to press the remains out of the carrier.

On a different subject does anyone have a good treatment for aluminium castings such as alternators to get them looking new(er)?

Clive,

that sounds like an epic amount of kit. V envious. I'll take all advice and run another check on whether there is any play on the joints. I've mostly been entertaining myself with getting all the little 6mm flanged bolts out of the dust guard and brake hose fittings. The list of parts is getting longer! Have now redone the EAS pump and valve block which seemed pretty straightforward. A small patch needed below the evap box but not too bad at the front. Rear of cills are frilly and inside OSR door arch is tired. The outer window rubber channels are all bubbling and haven't seen a source of these at a sensible price.

It is tempting, they look very thoroughly rusted in. Will sleep on it.

It is tempting but its such a tight space and there is really nothing left to glue. I did think of just ordering a new boot and cutting it in half BUT IT JUST ISN'T RIGHT is it?

Interesting RR, my MOT'r is sympathetic too s oit might get through but the fifty other fail points might not!

Thanks Gilbertd I will bite the bullet.

Thanks RutlandRover,
as you say it's not a very appealing job but as it's an MOT fail we're going to have to give it a go.
Good luck with yours, I let you know how I get on.

Working my way through the muck and bullets on the CVC and found the OS lower ball joint dust boot in tatters.
It looks a fairly scary job but does anyone have a trick for removing the lower ball joint without taking the top one off too?
If not, do the cheap Chinese extractors work?
There is no play in either joint so reluctant to do more work than necessary.
Any views on the necessity for the alignment tool appreciated too.

Don't worry Richard - just the standard original bits that go under the wheel arches.

Thanks everyone for the thoughts. Enough to scare me off so will just go with it as it is.
Picked up a door and some wheel arch protectors today so happy days.
Looking at home Nickel plating some bits. I know it's off topic; will re-post if successful.
Thanks again

As always you are a fount of knowledge.

I might follow your lead and just accept a bit of air leakage. I couldn't find the kit part number either.

Thank you Richard

Thanks Richard,

I'm guessing I need a new spindle as well, ERR4225, which Rimmers say is superseded. Is changing the bushes a big deal?

On a different subject do you know what the original spec for the tyres was?

Many thanks.

David

Dismantled the plenum chamber on the P38 and found a bit of wear in the spindle. I'm not sure how much movement is acceptable but having spoken to SC parts and Gower and Lee they don't have any parts anyway. Does anyone know of a source or how much play in the spindle is OK?

My first post here. I've just acquired a pre production P38 and someone has cut off the EAS pipes as they go into the valve block, a spring conversion that has then been partially returned to normal. There are new airbags on the corners and I wondered if anyone had suggestions as to the best route forward. There is a secondhand set of pipes on ebay. As part of the restoration would it be best to replace all seals in the valve block and pump and will I need a full diagnostic setup?
Many thanks,
David