That's inspired Richard. I'll get down to the resistor shop in the morning and have a play.

Thanks Richard. I suppose I could try a secondhand cluster to eliminate that.

Can't help with the knowledgeable part but when I was meddling with mine there was only one cable. The whole business was very fiddly and getting it balanced side to side was a real palaver. With so many small bits involved in locating the cable and changing from slide to tilt I gave up in the end and put a secondhand cassette in.

The temperature gauge on the P38 has been going up into the red area on the gauge with the light coming on. The Nanocom shows the temperature at 80 degrees.

I've put a new sensor in and have the same result.

Resistance is .758 Kohms at 18 degrees and 58 ohms at 80 degrees

Voltage is 4.39 at 18 degrees and .2.85V at 80 degrees

There is the same voltage at pin 19 on the BECM so continuity is OK

Should I be looking at the BECM, the wiring or the gauge as the next suspect or are those readings off?

Many thanks as always.

So, after six months with the dealer the story gets interesting.

A few days ago the car was being driven to show a potential customer.
The driver noted that the coolant temperature gauge was reading very high so aborted the meeting. It went back to the dealers workshop and they test drove it for 10 miles and the coolant temperature was fine although there was a "popping" sound. They changed the sensor and thermostat and then found thar there was no issue with the temperature but the gauge was considered faulty.

The dealer reported that the "inlet manifold had blown up" presumably meaning the inlet manifold gasket and that it was due to excess crankcase pressure, which seems reasonable. The popping disappeared when the oil filler cap was removed.

The car is coming back to me on Thursday so I am planning the campaign.
Having had it running perfectly it seems odd that the problem has not shown up before.

I was proposing to do a compression test first and a CO2 test.
I will also check the plenum pipes to see if they have collapsed, although they were new.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

I've used Autoaid for years now. It has gone up to £60 but covers me and Pauline and they don't seem to worry about what cars you have. One call and they send out a local contractor. Only used once when the E38 blew a bottom hose. Worked well then.

A bit late but if these help.

Good luck!

I got close to it when replacing the rear brake lines. I undid all the body to chassis bolts and hitched the engine crane to some eye bolts fixed to the rear body and lifted it enough to get at the brake lines. It seemed pretty light but there was no interior stuff at all.
I think someone else in another post has done it.

It's OK. The OP was using my Nanocom. He has now ordered a new Nanocom with Motronic set up.

Unless I've missed something the site shows this for Motronic.

NANOCOM unlock code for Motronic V8
Code: NCOM15

Price: GBP 58.17 (incl. VAT)

Weight: 0 g

1

This unlock code adds the Motronic V8 petrol engine management to the Nanocom Evolution where not already included. It can be used on either a P38 or Discovery II model. Please note that while you can access the Motronic engine management on the P38 with the Blue OBD lead, you will require the Green OBD lead NCOM023 if you intend to also add the rest of the P38 systems if you only have a Blue OBD lead or indeed an LD024 CAN BUS lead

and this for 05

NANOCOM Evolution for GEMS P38 kit
Code: NCOM05

Price: GBP 446.32 (incl. VAT)

Weight: 674 g

1

Description
This kit includes the main NANOCOM EVOLUTION unit, NCOM23 Green OBDII cable (~1.5 m long) and a USB update cable plus the unlock codes for coverage of the GEMS Petrol Engine (1994-99) P38. Click the More Info button for information on the unlock codes.

That makes sense as a starting point.

Looking at the Nanocom site it looks like you will need NCOM15 to access the Motronic engine management system. £58.17!

I suspect mine is only set up for GEMS as you were getting no access to Motronic.

Someone else may have a set up that includes NCOM15.

I've texted you a couple of access codes which should do the trick.

My Nanocom is sitting idle if you want to use it Peter.

Things do seem to be getting warm.

Time for a beer perhaps?

Another option is just a transmission jack adapter on a trolley jack. Bit more choice of support.

I used one to get the transfer case out.
Because the car was on a four post lift it was betwixt and beteeen the right height so ended up putting it on a another hydraulic lift which was a bit awkward.

It is not a very large area on top and with the odd shape of the TC it was pretty unstable.

Used it again to put it all back in with Romanrobs help.

If you need one you are welcome to both mine. Based near Dorking.

I did undo all the body to chassis nuts to clean everything and I used the engine crane to lift the back of the body via the two threaded holes in the boot just to give better access to replace the rear brake lines. It lifted quite easily. I did think of lifting the whole thing but I think a two post lift would be ideal as the four post would just get in the way. I have seen scary pictures of fork lifts being used.

Thanks Rob! I seem to have suddenly found other urgent matters. Anything rather less challenging welcome.

Hope you are feeling better Richard after your Evil Knievel experience.