Dismantled the plenum chamber on the P38 and found a bit of wear in the spindle. I'm not sure how much movement is acceptable but having spoken to SC parts and Gower and Lee they don't have any parts anyway. Does anyone know of a source or how much play in the spindle is OK?
Working my way through the muck and bullets on the CVC and found the OS lower ball joint dust boot in tatters.
It looks a fairly scary job but does anyone have a trick for removing the lower ball joint without taking the top one off too?
If not, do the cheap Chinese extractors work?
There is no play in either joint so reluctant to do more work than necessary.
Any views on the necessity for the alignment tool appreciated too.
Tried fitting a front drive shaft oil seal, FTC4822, this afternoon. I put the seal, described by LRDirect as OE, in the freezer and heated up the housing and met with no success.
Measuring the housing and seal showed a .6mm difference. The old FTC3452 was fine so I wish I hadn't bothered.
Should I just pay the money for LR or are Bearmach any better?
As I dig deeper into the CVC I've just removed the expansion tank and either I or a previous meddler has formed a very small crack in the breather pipe on the base of the expansion tank. Has anyone had any luck plastic welding the crack or would araldite bond well enough?
Digging deeper into the CVC reveals a genuine replacement stripped engine STC1965E Serial number AAA S15742 L9
The crankshaft pulley is marked as ERR5085 but has no oil thrower. Parts book seems a bit vague as ERR5085 is replaced by ERR7379 with ERR7374, the thrower.
Does the thrower actually do anything as once the seal has failed I would imagine throwing oil around is not helpful?
Does anyone know the history of the replacement engine serial numbers?
Thanks as always.
So, I've extracted the engine and dropped it off at SRS in Sutton who have pressure tested the block and found it to be fit and well. The crank is standard size and reusable as are the heads which have also been tested. Considering the state of the sump contents and the rusted camshaft and pitted rockers I've got off lightly so far. They are going to price up a full chemical clean and cost for the bits.
Whilst it is away I've been messing about with the insulation pad on the bulkhead. The foam had become exposed and where the engine had been run without an offside heat shield the bottom of it was a bit tired. I tried finding a method of sealing the foam to provide a new skin including raiding the medicine chest for Opsite which is supposed to provide a skin. Nothing worked so I contacted Plastidip who were very helpful and patch tested a couple of products on it, settling on ColorBond in Mercedes Anthracite.
After about five coats it looked a lot better and more stable and with the addition of some new heat shield fabric from Textile Technologies it looks quite presentable.
As the heat shield is stuck to the foam I might add some additional mechanical fixing before it goes back in.
I'd add some pics but In Imgur I can't see a direct link button. There is a copy link but that doesn't show up in Preview after pasting the link into the add image button link. I know Gilbert has told me how to do this twice. The joys of old age.
Front of chassis gradually being cleaned and painted.
Trying to work out a method of getting the gearbox and transfer box out bit by bit. The bell housing is off but the rest looks pretty heavy and I need to find a balance point if it all comes out as one.
Oh dear. The camshaft is shot, the rockers are pitted, the tappets are dished and I haven't even looked at the bottom end yet.
Does anyone have a favourite supplier of oem standard parts for a rebuild?
As a supplementary what were the original colours for the block, head, rocker covers and sump?
Thanks in anticipation.
Bit of an odd mix I know but does anyone have part numbers for the foam that lives under the bonnet lock panel and over the A/c radiator? Couldn't see anything in the parts book.
Also is there a reason for the wire cover over the chassis mounting nut on the panhard rod?
Having struggled to get the oil seals in the hubs I'm still left with a 2-3mm gap between the outer face of the oil seal and the front face of the hub. I should have checked on the gap when I took them out but does anyone know if they have to be totally flush with the hub?
My first post here. I've just acquired a pre production P38 and someone has cut off the EAS pipes as they go into the valve block, a spring conversion that has then been partially returned to normal. There are new airbags on the corners and I wondered if anyone had suggestions as to the best route forward. There is a secondhand set of pipes on ebay. As part of the restoration would it be best to replace all seals in the valve block and pump and will I need a full diagnostic setup?