The temperature gauge on the P38 has been going up into the red area on the gauge with the light coming on. The Nanocom shows the temperature at 80 degrees.

I've put a new sensor in and have the same result.

Resistance is .758 Kohms at 18 degrees and 58 ohms at 80 degrees

Voltage is 4.39 at 18 degrees and .2.85V at 80 degrees

There is the same voltage at pin 19 on the BECM so continuity is OK

Should I be looking at the BECM, the wiring or the gauge as the next suspect or are those readings off?

Many thanks as always.

As the CVC is done and the rest of the small fleet have had a service, the lift in the garage is available if anyone needs needs it for anything. Preferably not a two year rebuild!
I'm in Surrey near Dorking. I have a Nanocom too.

When I first connected up the secondhand pipe work for the EAS there were a couple of obvious leaks.

As part of the restoration I rebuilt the valve block and compressor with new O rings etc.

I followed the useful guidance on this link when testing the setup.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf

Initially the RH front corner dropped overnight.

I went through the test sequence and found that testing just line 6 to the reservoir, the compressor cut out at 4 bar. I presumed it was a faulty presure switch but tested the compressor just on the front right line. It went easily up to 11 bar and cut out as it should. Pressure held for 15 minutes.

Yesterday I reconnected every line and it took 8 minutes to settle at standard height from completely empty and the compressor to cut out. I opened the drivers door to stop it settling but this morning it is down 100mm on each corner.

There are no faults showing and it took a couple of minutes to settle at standard height and the compressor ran for 5 minutes.

Is this within acceptable limits?

Thanks as always.

I lumbered back the five miles from the MOT tester in low ratio.

Once home and with the message centre asking for neutral in spite of it being in neutral I replaced the new neutral switch with another new neutral switch that actually worked and on pressing the change ratio button no select neutral message but no change of ratio just flashing light.

Went underneath to look at the motor and having freed off the four bolts it tried, strongly, to rotate clockwise. Is that normal or has got stuck in low ratio somehow?

The fuel gauge is stuck on empty and there is more than 10 litres in the tank.

Using the Nanocom the gauge will move so I suspect it is either the sender or the float.

Before I drop the tank has anyone had any luck dislodging a stuck float? Flexible rods?

Any other test to do first?

Thanks.

Took the CVC for its first drive.. round the roundabout at the top of our road.

Came back with a rattle from the RH catalaytic converter. As it is early I presume it is a non cat and it's just the box and some baffles there. I'm reluctant to spend £1200 plus the aggravation of removing the gearbox cross member etc for a replacement part.

Has anyone cut out the cat section and opened it up to sort out the baffle? I'dlike to keep it original looking under there.

The CVC has been for its first drive out of the garage and into the drive.

Engine running smoothly but there is something binding.

It feels like oval brake drums with an on/off feeling. I've slackened the hand brake right off thinking it might be that but there is no change.

I've looked at the propshaft couplings and they seem to be in line although I have replaced the rear pinion oil seal with a complete new flange so cannot line up marks on that.

I'm reluctant to drive it any faster as it doesn't feel right.

Gearbox and Transfer case were rebuilt by Hardy Engineering.

Having moved on from the air bag issue the EAS ECU is not communicating with the Nano. When the car arrived it had been part reconverted from springs. The ECU was loose under the seat, the delay timer was detached and the Blue/Pink and Blue/White wires had been cut.

The ECU is refixed and contacts given a clean and Delay timer reconnected and the wires soldered up. I've checked fuse 24 and 44 and they are fine so would be grateful for any pointers on where to head next. I have tested with all doors closed.

The Nanocom is showing drivers air bag open circuit. Is the cable in yellow ducting from the steering column to the SRS loom the "shorting link" which the manual says to disconnect? I can't see anything else.
I've disconnected all the leads and given them a spray clean and cleared the fault a couple of times. The only thing left is the rotary coupler.Is this a frequent culprit?
Thanks as always.

A previous owner had run a fly lead from the unused headlight wiper relay connection to the fuel pump relay which didn't look very nice so having acquired a secondhand fuse box I thought it would be worth looking a bit deeper. It all looked fine on the surface but...

I was looking for the OBD connector and found this taped to the lower frame of the drivers side kick panel alongside a relay. It looks as if it was factory tape so guess the earliest ones don't have obd2 and this was just lashed up pre production.

Is there a particular adapter to connect to a Nanocom?

Thanks as always.

The time came to turn the engine over for the first time. No nasty noises but after about 15 seconds cranking the oil light is still on. Any recommendations for a suitable gauge to check the actual pressure?
Many thanks.

The pipe from the gearbox to the left side of the oil cooler on the manual v8 had seized so I needed a new cooler and pipe. The smaller cooler is NLA and the Bearmach was out of stock so had to choose a Britpart replacement. I don't know why but the left hand thread on the cooler takes a 27mm nut and the right hand takes a 24mm nut. That's the same as the engine oil cooler.

Britcar supplied a new cooler and LR original pipe but the LR pipe came with a 24mm nut. Britcar were very helpful and spoke to LR who said try a different pipe but with the same result. I took the pipe to our local Pirtek and asked them to change the flexible hose for one with the correct fitting from an engine oil cooler pipe but there was a lot of tooth sucking and "we can't recrimp old pipes" - even though they were new! In the end Duncan at Britcar, took an engine oil cooler pipe which has the correct nut on to his, next door, Pirtek and they changed the pipe over with no problem. So big thanks to Britcar who did all that at no cost to me and £70 to Pirtek.

Things are edging along on the CVC. I am starting to put back the gearbox cover and dash trim and I can see the O ring location fairly easily not necessarily reachable easily but there is no sign of leaks. So should I leave well alone or do them just in case? The car has been sitting for about three years unused.

Has anyone used silicone brake fluid or have any views on its benefits/disadvantages?

As I don't have anything connected I wanted to get the right rear window down and was going to put 12v into the Grey or Grey Orange wires to see if they worked direct on the motor. Am I heading in the right direction? I don't want to blow the bloody doors off.

I'm trying to keep as original as possible and the car arrived with a replacement left front ride height sensor which has the kit of tinfoil heatshield where the original set up had a plasticky/bakelite sort of cup over the sensor.

As the replacement sensor won't fit the old bakelite cup does anyone know of a source for the original ANR2494 or have one lurking at the back of the shed?

There is one in the U.S. used but otherwise they are showing as NLA.

Very happy to swap with the current sensor which reads OK on the meter.

While waiting for a 3rd replacement osf brake hose - all the Britpart ones seem to have the top bracket missing, I thought I'd extract the sunshade as it needs to be retrimmed along with the headlining.
The manual seems to run out of detail after removing the drive cable locator. Removing the guide assembly screws seems logical but before I break a vital bit of plastic are the guide assemblies masticed to the frame?

Also is anyone else retrimming their headlining soon?

I have been trying to track down ESR3197 which is the back box for the early cars with single pipe. This is NLA everywhere I have tried and ESR3538 is the replacement but in some pictures of it it seems to have a straight end to the tailpipe which probably won't clear the early rear bumper cut out.
Anyone had any experience with the replacement part on an early car?

Thanks.