Pete12345 wrote:

Next week is fine. Not sure what day yet, but will let you know over the weekend.

Thanks,
Pete

No worries - I'll check in here over the weekend!

Marty

Chrisp38 wrote:

Don't forget the amp, speakers, head unit that I would like Marty. I've sort of forgotten who was having what. I think it was going with the complete car possibly?
Anywhoo, still want it if its available but will need posting as you are wayyyy to far from me! Would love to have come down ,shame I can't.

Yeah, it was going with the complete car - and to be honest... given the state of it, even if Jack doesn't take it, I don't think the amp board is going to be much use at this point as the rats have got through a load of the wiring.

The head unit however, is here at home - and I actually have a working DSP amp that I'm open to selling (I will try and test it here again before I say 100% it's still working! I think I've still kept the stereo test loom here for all of that and didn't send it to NZ.) So can potentially get you sorted that way with head unit and DSP amp instead if you want?

Marty

Gilbertd wrote:

My Ascot needs new front top and bottom ball joints so if nobody else wants it, I'll take the front axle assembly and just swap the whole lot.

No problem.

Make me an offer, and it's yours. I'm waiting to hear back from Jack about the 2000 but I'm leaning towards just scrapping it anyway because it's in a terrible condition now.

I think in theory to get it free from the vehicle, it would be the rear radius arm nuts, top or bottom shock bolts, and top/bottom air spring clips.

What day suits you best to come over? Earlier in the week is better for me as we go to London/Europe later in the week - but earlier in the week I will be about.

Marty

Pete12345 wrote:

Marty,
Is it still worth me coming up there tomorrow, or will next week work better ? I can probably only do 2-3 hours either way.

Pete

Hi Pete,

Probably next week would be better when Richard has been over aswell, so we can get the rear axle out (I have found it and it's up the back of the workshop) behind some other stuff).

I've been up today and put out a load of rat poison, and sprayed disinfectant everywhere else, so going to give that a few days to settle in. I also loaded up a pile of random old scrap metal parts in the back of my RR which I'll take to the scrap metal place tomorrow hopefully.

I think I will try to continue just tidying up and sweeping up all the crap around the floor over Easter, and then next week it should be in a better state (hopefully) to be able to get some things out.

What day(s) work best for you next week?

Cheers,
Marty

I'm about next week until Friday, so any days in there are fine for me...

I got up to the workshop yesterday, and sadly the rats have got in again - obviously the treats I left last time weren't enough... I've got fresh rat poison to take up there today and disinfectant and a sprayer, which I'm going to spray around the place. Really can't wait to get the place cleared out and rid of it now!

Current plans...
Rat poison/Disinfectant today/tomorrow (hopefully it stops raining so I can be bothered to get up there!)
Clear some of the scrap metal into the back of the car and weigh it in (the smaller bits and pieces that are scattered about - try and clear a bit of the floor area)
I want to remove the front axle I cleaned up/refurbished and fitted to the '98. If I can get that off, it can either be up for sale if someone here wants it (84k Diff, new radius arm bushes, ball joints, shocks, air springs) or if Jack wants the 2000 then it can go with that if nobody else wants it. Worst case it comes to my house and sits in the garage here.
Try to put some of the other junk - seats etc that are kicking about into the '98 for when it's collected
Call scrap place to come and collect the shell of the '98. It has no engine or axles/wheels, so I'm thinking about either putting it on a pallet as I have some old castors up there to be able to get it out of the workshop, or I'll see if scrap place can hiab it out of there.
After that, I can clear half of the workshop, and will look at probably getting a small skip to chuck the rest of the shite in.

Currently - looking around what is there, and if people want any parts (that are useful still!)
I have a front bumper off the '98 from memory. Seems to be in reasonable condition from memory.
I have a whole bunch of transfer cases and transmissions I've acquired over the years. I was going to send them to Ashcroft as core, but what they'd pay for them vs the shipping cost (as it would probably be 3 pallets reaslitically because they never stack nicely) doesn't make it worth it... If someone wants them super cheap and then whack them all on a trailer and take away then we can work something out - otherwise my plan is to just to send them for scrap metal, as I can't be bothered with the hassle of palleting them up to send to ashcroft, or finding a trailer to take them myself.

I also have a pallet of V8 engine parts, which my plan is to contact V8 developments to see if they want them as core... but if anyone wants any parts before I itemise and contact V8 Dev, then let me know and I can see what I have. I know I have a set of Thor heads that came off my old V8 (they were fine as far as I know - my issue with the engine was the core plugs leaking on the block). also pretty sure there's at least one set of GEMS heads there which came off the '98

There's a block that came off '98 aswell, unsure of condition - think liners were all good, potentially it was a head gasket issue on it...
Probably got things like front covers etc aswell, and I know I have my old throttle body/plenum from my old Thor engine aswell.

I have at least one (think it's 2) sets of alloy wheels. One set are Hurricanes and one set are Proline from memory. Both sets have tyres (would need replacing) and the alloys themselves would probably need refurbishing. If anyone wants either set cheaply before I send them for scrap aswell, let me know.

I don't think there's much else there of any real value at this point. I have a big air compressor which is 16A powered, it's old, definitely second hand and probably needs a bit of TLC at this point.... Though when I last used it, it still made decent pressure. If anyone's interested then you can have it for free, but collection only.

If I think of anything else, I'll let people know... otherwise it will go to either scrap metal, or in a skip.

I took a few pictures of things that are there, so I'll see about uploading them for if anyone is interested...

Oh, I also have a working Thor spec HP24 gearbox/transfer case (think without torque converter though) which came from Sloth's P38 when he did his diesel engine swap... he wanted the one from the '98, so I swapped him for it... I think it's in reasonable condition with around the 135K mile mark on it.

Cheers,
Marty

Well... Made it back to the UK yesterday...

Only problem with landing at 6am and getting home by 9am, after 27 hours travelling is you want to sleep... so I have a funny feeling I will be doing some odd hours over the next few days until properly on UK time..

But... I did measure the battery level on the P38 yesterday after it's been sitting (disconnected) for 9 months... 12.2V.. decided 'screw it' and hooked it up, and turned it on, fired it up... took a few cranks, but fired right up and settled into a nice smooth idle...

So hoping today I can finish checking it over, take the EAS blocks out, and then take it for a bit of a run - and hopefully up to the workshop, so I can see the state of what I've got to get done...

Will get some pictures of the 2000 for you Jack, and hopefully of rear axle aswell. Will see how I go about removing the diff, otherwise that might have to wait for some extra hands.

I'll also try to make a list of other things that are there that may be useful to people, so then at least I know what I have which is usable, and if anyone wants things they can let me know and we can work it out.

Cheers,
Marty

Sounds like a plan...

The rear hubs come off a lot easier than the front, as they are just a flat face fit that they bolt to.

We arrive into the UK on the 25th, so Thursday 28th might be possible - my main thing when I get there is looking over my P38, getting it started and making sure it's running OK to get us about before I can get up to the workshop etc. She's been sitting for 9 months again, so as long as she doesn't need any major TLC and just a check over/clean inside etc, then Thursday should be fine.

I will message when I get to the UK and get the RR checked over, and we can go from there - otherwise the week after Easter should be good for me, as we are about that whole week before we go to Europe for a fortnight. We get back on 21st April, and then will be around Swindon again until we fly back out on the 30th.

We fly out from NZ tomorrow, so will check in once I get to the house in the UK on the 25th.

Cheers,
Marty

Pete12345 wrote:

Martyuk wrote:

Pete12345 wrote:

Marty, I could be interested in a diff. Finally got my project 1998 on the road back in November, but getting some drivetrain whine. I suspect the rear diff, but not sure yet.

I'm likely to be travelling from Langley to Ferndown various times in March & April, so a swing by Marlborough for half a day would be doable.

Pete

Hi Pete,
No worries - if it's the rear one, then it comes free with a rear axle.... haha.

I might be able to split it out, but don't have all the tools there that I used to, as I shipped most of my things back already, I think I have basic tools in the back of my RR there and a few in the garage at home still.

I would be happy to do a deal on either just diff or the axle, even though I only need a spare diff. Aren't the diffs the same front & rear on P39 ?

FYI, My old project P38 is finally on the road, but getting drivetrain whine. My plan was to have a refurbed diff ready to swap, & then refurb the one I take out (eventually doing them all in both cars).

The diff more comes with a free axle hahah - mostly because I'm just in need to get rid of stuff. I can try and get it removed if you really want - I just need to clear everything from the workshop in the few weeks I'm there... If you have it all as one and don't need/want the axle, you'd probably get a few ££ for it as scrap! I just don't have the time to sort through everything to get it separated and taken to either dump or scrap metal place etc.

I'll be in the UK from next Monday? Tuesday? I can't actually remember with the flight times and the date change! but early next week anyway!

Marty

I believed in it aswell... until I took my front axle apart and found only a 2 pin one in there!

I have since put a 4 pin one in my front axle, so it is 4 pin front and rear.

Harv wrote:

Didn’t the ‘99 an on come with 4 pin front diff’s?

I believe that's an urban myth. When I swapped the front diff on my 2001 P38, I pulled a 2 pin one from the axle, and judging by how hard it was to get the front hubs out, I am confident it was original and hadn't been changed before

Pete12345 wrote:

Marty, I could be interested in a diff. Finally got my project 1998 on the road back in November, but getting some drivetrain whine. I suspect the rear diff, but not sure yet.

I'm likely to be travelling from Langley to Ferndown various times in March & April, so a swing by Marlborough for half a day would be doable.

Pete

Hi Pete,
No worries - if it's the rear one, then it comes free with a rear axle.... haha.

I might be able to split it out, but don't have all the tools there that I used to, as I shipped most of my things back already, I think I have basic tools in the back of my RR there and a few in the garage at home still.

Chrisp38 wrote:

Martyuk wrote:

Sorry Chris,

I forgot to put that in haha!
Workshop is just outside Marlborough in Wiltshire

I'll check and reply to PMs a bit later when I finish work for the day.

Cheers,
Marty

Over 200 miles from me...hmm... definitely want the amp thing and possibly the head unit, if a faulty head unit can be a cause of non functioning 2nd row speakers? That's if no one wants the whole vehicle of course.

Jackk is interested in the whole vehicle, so if he confirms that he's taking it, then I would rather keep it as intact as possible and the head unit would probably go with that vehicle too, as his intention would be to restore it, so I'll obviously try to give him as much of a head start as I can with that, given the state of it!

If he decides not to take it, then things like the DSP amp board would be postable to you. But will update once I've had time to send some pics of the RR to Jack.

Sorry Chris,

I forgot to put that in haha!
Workshop is just outside Marlborough in Wiltshire

I'll check and reply to PMs a bit later when I finish work for the day.

Cheers,
Marty

jacckk wrote:

I may be interested in the 2000. What is the interior like (in terms of door cards, seats)? Is it lightstone?

The interior is lightstone, yes. It has the 5 bar seats, and I think the drivers seat was a cracked on the base when I got it, but I also got a couple of other interiors with the vehicles when I bought them years ago, so I'm pretty sure there are enough bits there (I might have already swapped/put another seat in it that I was planning on using to restore it with).

General condition is pretty dirty/mucky as it's been sitting in the workshop for years, but with some elbow grease, I'm pretty sure they would come up ok.

Door cards - again, dirty, but from memory they were in a reasonable condition - again, I got a whole bunch of them with the vehicles, and I stripped down/chucked out a load of them, but pretty sure I kept all the good ones. Don't quote me, (I can check when I'm back) but I think that it might have a set of the later leather clad cards in it.

It was a Vogue model, so has the trim associated with that, but they obviously didn't pay extra for the Oxford Leather!

I know I've also got a set of de-flocked pillar trim panels which are in it.

I would rather try to get rid of it as one whole vehicle than spend ages parting it out - but if Chris wants the DSP amp board, then if you don't need that, then I can pilfer it for him - there isn't a head unit in the vehicle at the moment (didn't come with one)

Chris, Yes, the amp board will fit work with the factory head unit/steering wheel controls. I also think I have a rare DSP amp in my boxes of stuff I left in the UK... Rare.... because it still works! Which at this point in time, I have no use for. I think I also have a working later (99MY on) head unit too, as some of the part in my garage at home.

I also have a couple of pallets between home and the workshop of V8 engine parts - a couple of blocks, heads, the works really which I was planning on sending to V8 Developments if they wanted them, but again, if anyone wants any parts before they go... There's also a bunch of transmissions, transfer cases, and maybe a diff? on a pallet that I was going to send to Ashcroft for core parts, but they pay sod all, and it would almost cost me more to send them to them than what they'd pay - so again if anyone wants any of that, then I'll sell all that kind of stuff for cheap - I just can't be bothered itemising it all to put on eBay for example, and then having to deal with a load of freight aswell. So if people want things, and want to come get them, then I'll do bits and pieces, otherwise it will pretty much all go for scrap I think.

Thinking about it, I probably have the rear axle from the '98 aswell, which will have the rear diff in it, which has about 84K miles on it, which I would probably want a wee bit more for, since it's low mileage - but I'm still open to offers.

Cheers,
Marty

Howdy all!

As you've probably noticed - I'm not on here that much anymore - life in NZ has kept me stupidly busy, along with getting married last year, and well, more work.

I'm slowly trying to get back into some P38 parts as and when I have time, but that isn't as plentiful as it was a few years ago over COVID times! I have managed to make a V2 of the RF Filter, which is pretty much all SMD and assembled at the PCB factory, which makes the boards smaller, the boxes 3D printable, and assembly/programming/testing quicker and easier.

Anyway - I am going to be over in the UK for about 3 weeks (well, spread over 5, but we are going to Europe for a couple of weeks) between the end of March and the end of April (so in a month's time effectively).

My workshop lease is up for renewal at the end of May, and I don't want to renew it this year, as it's costing more than the mortgage on the house, and I'm never going to get the RR's there back into any sort of working shape - so I need to get it cleared out, so I can tell them I'm not having it any longer.

I was wondering if anyone on here would be interested in lending a hand to help clear some of it out so I can get at least one of the P38's there off to the scrap yard, and the second one - sadly will probably follow suit now - as in my last absence, rats got inside it and have basically trashed the wiring and the under carpet foam. Damn shame as it's a 2000 with 89K miles on it, and otherwise is reasonable nick once it would be cleaned up, but I fear it would be too much of a project to restore now!

That being said - if there are any parts people want from it, then if you're free and want to come give me a bit of a hand to sort some stuff out, then I am sure there's plenty there I'd be happy to get rid of cheaply or even free.

I have a few sets of wheels which are in good condition from memory (though the tyres aren't!) and also a totally rebuilt front axle assembly which I had fitted to my '98 before it became too much of a task to restore... but it's been painted, has new ball joints, original front diff with about 85K miles on it, new air springs, shocks, radius arm bushes, brake calipers etc.

I also have some tools - a big air compressor, hydraulic press, and probably other bits I can't remember.

The '2000 (if someone wanted it for parts - but would definitely need to be trailered - though it has 4 wheels/tyres and would roll to load) has a good Thor V8, which ran nicely the last time I started it. It's missing an alternator, and the radiator had the bleed nipple snapped off and repaired when I got it, but I also have at least one other good Thor radiator that can go with it. It's also got a DSP amp conversion in it, which I might yank out but if someone wanted to offer for the vehicle for parts, then I'll probably leave it in. I also have the original door handle/lock somewhere (I swapped it when my shop got broken into YEARS ago and they nicked the key - probably to try and joy ride off in it, but I had disconnected the battery, mega fuses etc so it wouldn't power up/yet alone start!) and I have a brand new Land Rover key fob which matches door/ignition/BECM/glove box etc.

We land into the UK on the 25th I think of March, go to Europe on the 7th - 20th April, and then leave the UK on the 30th April, so if anyone is free between 26th March - 6th April, or 21st April - 29th April and fancies a Workshop Wrap Up with me, and possibly some cheap parts, P38 advice/looking at any of your P38's whilst I'm back aswell, then let me know - it would be much appreciated, as getting the workshop gone is my biggest stress at the moment! My wife says she will help me, but she hasn't seen the state of it yet!!!

Cheers,
Marty

It's been awhile since I've had one in front of me, I'll be honest! I can't fully remember how the switches go in there - I'll try and have a look online for a picture of one of the panels.

I've currently only got a L322 here, and they're completely different beasts!

Marty

I've replied to your PM, sorry - I haven't been on here in ages!

I don't think it's likely to be the ECU in this case unless it's a 'Rear Left Sensor Short to Another Sensor' fault. I've not seen any other corner input circuitry fail on the ECUs - though when I repair the ECU's I replace the components for all 4 corners to be sure.

I would say a sensor/connection/wiring issue first.

As mentioned, and as I put in the PM - the 'live values' are labelled wrong on the nanocom. Fault messages are the correct corner, live values don't correspond to the actual corner.

A list of them below for anyone else who looks at live WABCO D values:
Front/Right (Live Value box) = Front Right (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Right (Live Value box) = Front Left (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Right (vehicle sensor)
Front/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Left (vehicle sensor)

Hope this helps,

Marty

Yes...

I actually have a batch of about 20 brand new PCBs sitting here on my desk (in NZ...). I redesigned them when we ran out of the older version, so the new ones are now all Surface Mount components, which are assembled at the PCB manufacturing plant - which means I don't have to hunt down all the individual components, and just need to program them, wire them, put them in a box, and test them.

I've done a couple of tweaks on the circuit aswell, and tested one of the new ones on my key fob reader, and BECM test bench (I did ship that out with me, so I can hopefully start doing repairs again) and they work perfectly... also the new cases I can 3D print, which works out cheaper than buying loads of them.... and if I run out... I can just print some more...

If you've still got my email address, then drop me a message and we can work something out. I've recently looked at the shipping etc for them, and it's about £15 for tracked courier shipping from NZ to the UK (I'll check Europe), so a bit more than it used to be when I was based in the UK - though I'm not putting the price of the filters themselves up anytime soon, as they are (in theory) now easier to make, so take less time, so less labour cost.

I am hoping (before I get busy with work) to assemble a bunch of them, get them tested and have them available in the next week or so on the website, but I can do one-off orders at the moment until I update the website/shipping etc via email/paypal.

I am also going to be in the UK end of March - end of April, so will probably bring a few with me aswell.

Also look out for a workshop 'help' thread soon as I need to get rid of that whilst I'm over on this visit as the lease comes up in May... and I've got a lot of stuff to ditch, and some extra hands could be useful if people are available!

Cheers,
Marty

The window switchpacks do unfortunately have a tendancy to just fail.

If EVERYTHING stops working, then the fault is usually some of the tiny vias (through PCB connections - the little holes). They are usually plated with copper to connect the circuit through the board, but if there's been moisture etc and they corrode out, then the circuit breaks and it stops working.

Most of the window switchpacks I've repaired, which have just stopped working have had anywhere between 1 and 5 or 6 of these connections broken. The reason the switchpack just stops completely is the ones that fail are usually ones on one of the serial bus lines - so if any of them stop, the whole thing stops.

If you are OK at some tiny soldering, then they are repairable - I used to use a 0.3-0.5mm drill bit in a small rotary tool to drill out the corrosion through the via, and then scrape a bit of the masking off the track, and solder a bit of thin copper wire through the hole to re-make the connection.

Pretty easy fix (but I do have an electronics background) but can be a bit fiddly to find where the break(s) are. I did at one point draw out the circuit diagram for most of the serial lines on the switch packs so I could just probe a number of places to check the common culprits, but I haven't found them yet in all my stuff I sent over when I moved :(

Marty

If you are connecting to the pins on the BECM CPU chip itself, then there's no difference to the version 1/2 - the difference in versions is some of the outboard components.

I have a chip socket which is on a piece of PCB, which allows me to have wire connections to the pins required on the BECM CPU. Generally I have to remove some of the lacquer over the BECM CPU chip as it's on pretty thick and I won't get a decent connection otherwise, but it's also handy to be able to do it without soldering... You have to press down a bit on some boards to get a good connection, but once the programming is done, I just spray some fresh PCB lacquer over and presto.

Nice on the laser cutter etc - I keep thinking about getting one, but I want one ideally that can cut through thin alloy, but they're a lot more expensive!!

Cheers,
Marty