Gilbertd wrote:
More playing, this time on the newly acquired red one. I'd already mentioned the bodgery I'd found on it with the steering column being welded so it wouldn't move up and down and the fact that the ABS was giving multiple errors relating to the traction control as someone had replaced the Modulator with one from a base model with no traction control, well not any more.
Spent Tuesday giving Marty a hand to clear his workshop and rescuing any parts that might be useful before everything went in a scrap metal skip. Those parts included a steering column and the correct brake modulator so started swapping them yesterday. Figured that if I got everything free and dismantled on the steering column and then removed the brake modulator, that would let me get at the top joint on the intermediate steering shaft a lot easier, so did that. Getting at the bolts that hold the modulator in place isn't easy but they came out, released it from the brake pedal and it started to move. RAVE says to unclip the brake light switch, which I did, but it unfortunately doesn't mention the second one for the cruise control vent valve and the brake pedal came back on a spring and smashed it......
Although the brake modulator was free, getting it out is an interesting exercise as the brake pipes run in front of it, so they had to be bent to one side, the throttle cable runs in front of it so that has to be released and moved away and then it only comes out until it hits the top shock mount. After much swearing at it and wiggling it about, it came out. Left that for a while and swapped over the steering column. As well as two bolts to the bulkhead and a couple more to the pedal box, the column is held in on two long studs and it looked like it would sit on those and allow the intermediate shaft to be slid onto the splines. It isn't. As soon as I tried to align the splines it dropped off the studs so I had to wait until my assistant came back from taking the dogs for a walk, so she could sit in the car and guide it in. While waiting I lifted off the ignition coils as the monkey that had been in there before had managed to run the throttle cable under them and not over the top like it should be. Steering splines slotted in, steering column in place, so bolted it all up. Reassembled the switches and wiring on the column before calling it a day.
So today it was back out there at it. The correct brake modulator actually slotted straight in and I'm still not sure why considering the grief getting the old one out had caused me. Bolted it in place, and started connection the pipes again. As they were the original steel pipes and had been bent I had to try to bend them back to the original shape so they would line up with the holes, not an easy task and one union started going in cross threaded so I had to clean the threads up before it went in as it should. Filled it with brake fluid and now for the moment of truth. Ignition on, Nanocom booted up and read the ABS fault codes. It still had all the previous Traction Control faults showing so cleared those, cycled the ignition off and back on again and the dash beeped and said ABS Fault..... However, read the codes again the only one there now was Left Front sensor open circuit. No big deal on that then once I work out which one is actually faulty knowing that the Nanocom gets them muddled up (or does it? It does on the Wabco D system on a Thor but this is the Wabco C on a GEMS so it might get them right). I'll just unplug the front left sensor and see if it gives the same fault or if it tells me there's now two open circuit sensors.
All that is left now is to wait for the assistant to finish work and go through the brake bleeding process.
It's only the wabco D system that the labels are wrong on line values (error codes are correct). As far as I know the wabco C system is correct for error codes and live values.
The outstation failing would stop the mirror from working aswell, as it has the relays in it to drive the motors.
But if the windows work, then the outstation is OK - as it also drives that.
If you can't unlock the door then it probably is a case that the door latch is superlocked, and the sill button won't unlock it - you would need to either destroy to top of the latch or cut the locking hasp to get the door open, and then be able to get the door card off to access the latch.
Gilbertd wrote:
It won't be 09:00 but I'll get there earlier than last time, hopefully around 10:00.
All good - I'll mostly be there about then just in case they come early to do the collection.
I'm going to email V8 Dev tonight re the engine parts. Given what they were offering I think I'll keep some of the bits for myself as spares/to sell second hand! But the blocks are definitely no use to me. I'll let you know if I've come to an arrangement with them before you head over.
Marty
You don't want a set of 18" prolines for the red one do you Richard? 😉. Or does Dina like the 19" L322 wheels on it?
Gilbertd wrote:
Marty, I'll be down on the 23rd to pick up the steering column, ABS modulator and a front bumper to send to Spain and give a hand clearing the remaining stuff out. Do you want me to bring my trailer so I can drop the two engines off at V8Dev to save you having to pallet them up and send by courier?
Anyone else going to be there on the 23rd?
I think Nick is going to come up on the 23rd to grab a couple of bits I have aside for him that didn't fit last time.
Scrap collection of the 98 is on the 23rd aswell as dropping off the metal skip for other scrap.
If you want to bring trailer then worst case you can grab the rest of the bits of wood that you wanted. I still need to finalise the engine stuff with V8 Dev.. they weren't offering that much for everything I have, so might just sell them the engine blocks and a few bits and keep things like the heads as I'm sure I could get more for them just by selling second hand on the likes of eBay, and also keep a spare set for myself.
I don't know what time the scrap collection is - they said he'll call when on the way, but I'll probably be up there from about 0900 to keep tidying stuff up.
Pierre3 wrote:
Marty, I sent a couple of PM's to you regarding the possibility of a good, complete sunroof cassette. Didn't hear from you so I assume they are all gone, but if you have a good one then I may still be interested.
Pierre3.
Sorry, we are travelling around Europe at the moment and not online every day..
I still have the sunroof cassettes, yes. But not sure on condition. I will probably end up taking them home as the scrap metal bin probably won't allow the glass.
I don't know if I'll have time this trip to see how good they are, and not sure the best way to send, probably would have to go on a pallet I would imagine.
I'll have a look at them when I next get to workshop (probably 23rd) and make try to get done pictures for you aswell
Marty
I think the ABS modulator block from my 98 is still at the workshop if needed. It was a 4.6HSE, so should have 2 wheel TC
I think I still have a spare steering column in my workshop if anyone needs it...
23rd April is when the shell of the 98 is being collected, and a scrap metal skip being dropped off.. so if anyone wants anything else before whatever is left goes, then let me know.
Lots of transfer cases, few transmissions, 2 front bumpers, one with GEMS fog lights, about 3 sunroof cartridges and 1 set of 18" proline wheels..
Yeah, I would try swapping the aspirator then.
I looked at mine on nanocom today and it was reading about the same as heater core (11-12 Deg) with the engine being off for awhile and just ignition on.
If I put my finger on the sensor it would go up in temp as expected, and drop again when finger removed.
With engine on and the system in auto, I could set the desired temp on HEVAC and then again with finger on aspirator, I could see the blend motors moving a bit, so I don't think there's a delay on aspirator sensor read.
Trying another sensor is probably a good place to start on your RR.
I don't know if the interior aspirator sensor is part of the 'doesn't update straight away' ones, or if it does update straight away.
I'm meeting Nick at the workshop today to sort some more parts out for him - so I'll borrow his Nanocom (as I forgot to bring mine with me) and have a look on my RR as it's also a 2001 with the later HEVAC controller.
Not getting as hot as it used to could be a lot of things - from sticking blend flaps that don't fully go to hot, or restricted flow through the heater core.
Is your RR just on Petrol or LPG aswell?
I did manage to find the slip rings and brushes somewhere on eBay awhile ago (I think they came from Ireland?) as they were the same as a different Bosch model.
I don't know if I still have all the information from when I did mine years ago, but I'll have a look and see if I made any notes.
Is the fan behind the aspirator clean and spinning freely? is there any clogged dust in the aspirator that could be causing it to read high for some reason?
Also, is the reading with the vehicle running? or before you start it? I know on the later P38's the external air temp sensor is delayed in reading until there is some road speed and a certain time (I think maybe 30 seconds) has gone past. I have never actually looked at it with the other sensors, but maybe all of them don't update straight away... (which doesn't make a lot of sense - but thinking from a coding point of view, if the temperature read is a sub-routine, then it would be easier to put a check in over the whole routine than maybe just one sensor).
If it's reading 25, and you put the temp to 26, does it start warning the air up (you should be able to see blend motor positions aswell in the nanocom to see when they are moving). Also, if you move the temp up to 'HI' then that will override the 'climate control' part of trying to reach a target temp, so you should get full hot at that point - which at least will blow it where you have the vents already set, rather than at the windscreen as in the 'PROG' mode
Marty
Pete12345 wrote:
Green P38 is definitely high-line. Not sure about Blue one, but the only thing lacking are electric memory seats. Everything else is in it.
Good to know - I'll have a look through my stash to make sure I've got a couple which will work for you.
Pete12345 wrote:
Marty,
Was completly snowed under with work & stuff at my Dad's house today. Any chance I can collect the diff from you on Friday about lunchtime ?Pete
Hi Pete,
Yes, no problem. I think Nick is planning on coming up to collect a few more bits on Friday aswell. I have the diff there for you and also a couple of BECM power boards in the back of my RR and the fuse box from the '98 aswell.
Were there any other parts you were interested in?
Also, is the BECM in your vehicle High Line or Low Lone? Just so I can make sure I have the right type
Cheers,
Marty
NZ is a bit the same for that...
The government had a green car deal where you go a rebate if it was a hybrid or EV and that stopped in December last year. I think a bunch of rich people (including the PM's family) were buying like $80K Teslas and getting massive rebates on them. But we also don't have the charging infrastructure to do long distances.
The other push has been that plug in Hybrid and EV's haven't been subject to any road user charges - in NZ the road user charge for petrol vehicles is collected in the price of petrol. for diesel vehicles, they pay an additional Road User Charge (RUC) which is bought based on mileage - say in 10000km blocks. The main reason is we don't have 'Red' diesel like the UK does for agricultural and non-road applications - so the diesel price at the pump is cheaper as it doesn't include the road user charges like petrol does.
Plug in Hybrid and EV vehicles have been exempt from paying any RUC as an incentive to buy them, but this year from I think the 1st April, they will all have to pay a RUC of $76 per 1000km for an EV or $38/1000km for a plug in Hybrid. Funnily enough since that was announced late last year, and green car discount finished, in January there was the lowest sales of EV/Plug in Hybrid vehicles in years...
I also feel there is a place for them - but also in and around the city... but for long distance, there isn't a viable alternative yet. I'm interested to see what comes up in the Hydrogen sector.
Wednesday is good for me too.
I might try to arrange scrap collection if the 98 for that day aswell, as we got a load of stuff jammed in it on Saturday when Nick came up, so it's full and ready to go but I need to call a couple of scrap places today and see when it can be collected as they'll need a hiab crane to lift it.
Jack said he would be aiming for about 10:30 on Wednesday, so I think that's probably a good time to aim for.
Marty
Pete12345 wrote:
I could also be interested in spare fusebox & BECM Power board for my P38's. They are both GEMS & ok at moment, but you never know !!
PM me an offer for them and the diff - I'm out of touch with what the prices are for things over here now!
I can dig a power board out from garage and bring it with me when you collect diff, no problem!
Cheers,
Marty
Bolt wrote:
Aloha Marty,
Got any HVAC Zebra strips left?
I could probably use 4 of them.....
I do have some of them left . Though they are at home in NZ, so can send when I get back...
Update on the front axle from the '98...
Nick has made me a really good offer on this as he wants it for the diff, ball joints, shocks, radius arms, and the front air springs - so the whole package and wants to come and grab it tomorrow as he's working next week,
So sorry Richard, the ball joints on the Ascot will have to be the old fashioned way! I do however have a set of press tools for the ball joints which you can have if you want (to keep) if I can find them before you come over this way.
So current update on things...
The rear axle has been located, and I just need to hike it out to remove the half shafts and the diff.
Richard is taking the half shafts, and Pete is having the diff. The axle casing isn't worth anything, so will go to scrap.
The front axle from the '98 - Nick/Sloth is interested in it aswell for his P38 as he has a leaky diff pinion seal, will need to do ball joints at some point, and also as it has new shocks and radius arm bushes etc it takes care of maintenance on his. Waiting to see if he wants to formally make me an offer on it/come and help take it off.
I'll then arrange for the '98 to go for scrap.
Jack is taking the 2000 and I believe is looking into having it collected, so it will go as a full vehicle. Also will go with it will be the old rear bumper cover from the '98 and some other stuff as I find it.
Other things that are at the workshop that are available and might be useful...
2x sets of wheels/tyres.
Thor transmission and transfer case (from Nick's P38 when he did swap to M57 diesel. No torque converter but has XYZ switch
GEMS fuse box from the '98
Front bumper from the '98 - intact/no cracks that I could see - it's up on a shelf out of the way
couple of lower steering column linkages, and a steering column from inside the vehicle.
Steering box - again from the '98
I've emailed V8 dev, but not heard back from them yet about parts for core, but I have a number of exhaust headers, lower intake - GEMS and Thor, GEMS V8 heads, from the '98 (looking at the block/heads I think it was head gasket failure on the engine.
I believe the AC compressor from the '98 is there too.
I have a set of Thor V8 heads somewhere (I think in my garage here) from my old engine before I rebuilt it
The block from the '98 - so a GEMS one - complete with front cover, crank pulley, flywheel etc. which I've asked V8 dev if they want, but also open if anyone else wants it
I also have a load of P38 BECM power boards sitting in my garage here (about 30 of them I think I counted last time I was here!). There may be a few complete BECMs with logic boards too, but think I stripped most of them out, so it's just cases and power boards.
If I can see/think of anything else - or if anyone is interested in something I haven't listed, then let me know. Anything that might be useful/still working condition I will try to save and bring home to stuff in the garage for the moment - but other bigger items will end up going for scrap at some point