Ok.... my observations on the 3rd gen receiver so far...
As far as I know it must look at the header in the transmission and identify that as being a valid P38 transmission. If it detects one, then it passes it onto the BECM for decoding to make sure it is the one for your vehicle.
Just because the 3rd gen receiver stops the BECM from waking up every time there is a transmission of any kind (1st gen receiver) or a transmission on 433mhz (2nd gen with extra filtering from what I gather) it doesn't mean it's immune to interference. The only difference is, that it's now blocked at the receiver end - so if it isn't a P38 fob transmission, it won't get passed onto the BECM/cause excessive battery drain etc.
Engine Immobilised - Press Remote is not engine ECU sync. If you have lost sync then on a diesel, it will crank but not fire up and run, but you won't get any message on the dash.
Engine Immobilised is from the BECM end - as in it has immobilised the engine again. If you have the 'immobiliser' feature turned on in your BECM, then this is completely normal. The passive immobiliser will automatically immobilise the engine after it's been switched off for a period of time. The normal practice is that when you put your key back in the ignition, the key in switch tells the BECM the key is there, and it will then pulse the coil around the ignition to then get the fob to automatically send an unlock code, which the BECM will receive, and then it will allow you to start the vehicle again (it should be seamless).
If it comes up with the message on the dash, then it basically means that the BECM hasn't received a valid code from the fob automatically, which could be down to a number of things - the coil around the ignition not working or intermittent, the key in switch faulty or intermittent (so it doesn't know you've put the key back in the ignition) or maybe the 3rd gen receiver has a 'time out' function on it - where if it's inundated with interference it then goes into a time out where it waits for x long until it listens for transmissions again. Or, maybe if you've been using the caravan mover on 433, it's swamped the receiver, and it hasn't cleared the data out of whatever buffering it has, in time for it to receive the fob code from the BECM.
The easiest way to sort it... turn the passive immobiliser off in the BECM settings. This will then mean that it won't time out and immobilise the engine automatically, and it also disables the coil around the ignition (so no 'friendly sync - you'd have to do it in the door every time). The vehicle will still be immobilised when locked/alarmed - whether by the remote or the key - but when it's unlocked/disarmed it will always allow you to start it straight away.
As to why it isn't either getting the fob to automatically send a code again, or it's not receiving it - I don't know, but what it's doing by immobilising the vehicle automatically is perfectly normal with the passive immobiliser switched on.
Is the top one on the offside loose? If so then it's going to be a case of continuing to put a bit of pressure on it and hitting it.. sometimes whilst it's under pressure, using 2 hitting devices at the same time on either side of the swivel knuckle gives it enough to a shock to get it to pop loose. If the top isn't loose yet, the get that one loose and it can help the bottom one...
Just think - you're 2/3 of the way on total disassembly now, and the refit is DEFINITELY easier than the removal!!
Most people would have given up by now, cursing and calling the vehicle a heap of sh*t - But I imagine there are some parts on any vehicle of the P38's vintage that has some rusty bits that take forever to get apart!
You'll get there! :)
ooohhh, ok - so if the one on the inside is floppy it could be that the cable is taught and jamming the latch mechanism... I had it on mine when the wire pull was starting to fray and catching in the nylon tube.
First thing to then try would be remove the screw behind the door handle, and remove the plastic finisher from there. Then you'll be able to see the door handle and the end of the cable - if it looks like the cable isn't fully returning, then a bit of gentle persuasion with a pair of pliers on the end of the wire, pushing it back into the door might help it release and that could get it so that the door will then lock/unlock on the sill button again.
Usually if it's superlocked, the sill button will move up and down with pretty much no resistance.
I'll try and have a look on mine tomorrow to see if I can reach those door loom connections from the inside..
At least if you started on the nearside, then the offside should be easier...
I don't know if it's because it's the side closest to the edge of the road, so get more water/salt in the winter into it, but every one I've done had been a PITA on the nearside, but a LOT easier on the offside.
One note I forgot to mention last night....
Press the TOP ball joint out first, then press the bottom out.
When refitting, press the BOTTOM joint in FIRST, before pressing the new one into the top... (FOLI for the top one... First Out, Last In!)
The screw from the press tool has to go through the hole in the knuckle on the axle to do the bottom one - so if you press top out, and then put new one in straight away, you're screwed to get the bottom one out! Sorry if you already know that/figured it out - but I've heard of people being caught out before!
Fingers crossed the offside does go easier!
Marty
Erm... shit springs to mind...
If the door wont unlock from the sill lock button, then it sounds like it's superlocked - and then you are in for a world of fun, because the feed to the door latch to control all that is in the passenger door... between that and the outstation
If everything is dead, then it does point towards the connectors in the door jamb that OB has linked to, as everything stopping in the passenger door will most likely be either the power/ground or serial link to the outstation that has gone down.
I'm just trying to think if it is possible to reach in from the front if the glove box is removed, to get to the connectors from the inside... I have a bad feeling that those wires run up in between 2 parts of the bodyshell.
I would keep trying it and hope it's an intermittent problem, that has it come back to life for long enough to unlock the door, so you can get into it! but if not, then it is going to need some surgery to get the door open if you can't get to the connectors from the inside (even if it's to wiggle them and temporarily get communication back to get the door open)
I think you were lucky Ferryman!
Before I started using the brake disc, I did the 4 bolt method on my own RR.. the RHF took about 30 mins to get it to shift... the LHF... over 4 hours as it was rusted that solid...
I reassembled with liberal amounts of copper grease where the hub fits into the carrier... I had to get them back out again to replace a CV boot I damaged (when hitting the bolt heads the first time) and the second time, I just tapped the bolt heads and it was out in about 30 seconds!!
Keep at it Smiler - I know it is a b*&stard of a thing, and with the amount you put in the swear jar, you'll be able to afford new brakes all round :) but it will eventually start to crack the bead of rust that's binding it, and I tell you, there is no better sight after hours of hitting, than a hairline crack in the rust/join!!
8th/9th might be possible - I'll have to see what I have on.
Fair point, but given the number of P38 owners on the various social media outlets who don't even seem to have the vehicle manual (or at least never seem to friggin read it... I've refrained from saying "Your EKA instructions are in the frigging manual if you'd actually read it" more times than I care to remember!)
You'd get away with putting black carpet in - I bet you nobody would know the difference, and would even think it's factory, given that some other vogue models in red/green/blue came with matching carpet..
I doubt I'll have time at Summer Camp to even look at my seats - and it's definitely not my specialty either! The rust spot would be good if you can take a look at it though. I've got my headlining to do, and hopefully a replacement ABS modulator to swap in by then too..
I like the contrast of the lightstone leather with the black of the vehicle (and now carpet) but I think black leather would be a bit much on it!
Bring your steam cleaner to summer camp, and you can have a go on mine if you like...
Interior looks good.. would be nicer with black carpet, and personally I think the lightstone gearshift and handbrake handle are nasty! I had black leather ones on my vogue, but swapped the gearshift for walnut, and just managed to pick up a walnut handbrake handle and cubby box lid :)
If you wanted to replace the carpets with something close to original, then I found some listed as Champagne which were close - but I decided to go for black in the end!
If you're up this way again at some point then let me know, and I'll give you some new black self-tapping screws - I bought a set of them awhile ago of varying sizes, so as I take rusty horrible ones out, I put new ones in!
Maybe you should do the mod, and then you wouldn't be worrying about having to go in again ;)
Washer pumps - I've been through 2 cheap brand new ones now - both on the rear, they only seemed to last about 9 months each time. So personally, I'd go for a second hand LR one, but then you could get a duff one of those too... The third time I had to do my rear one, I grabbed one from the workshop that was lying around second hand and it's doing just aswell!
Typically they don't seem to do one for the Thor... I looked around for an alloy one when I did the engine swap, and all I could find were GEMS versions... grrrr..
That's what I figured - though most of the other ECU's I've looked at seem to use the same pair of connectors to plug into their loom - so I'd stab at a guess that the pinouts are probably very similar, if not the same, so I could just tweak any of the pins which don't match, so I could reconfigure the current loom to work.
I am leaning towards the King ECU, as yes I have the Hana 2001 Gold injectors, which indeed are 1.9 ohm, that and I've already got the software installed on my laptop ;)
I don't have a check strap, no - they were never salvaged from the old vehicles as they didn't seem like they were in hot demand!
Tailgate... if the central locking works as it should, with the key in the drivers door, then chances are it's in the tailgate, or the wire back to the drivers door. If only the drivers door locks/unlocks then it could be the door latch CDL microswitch.
Well, first oil change done this weekend - thanks to Sloth for coming up and giving a hand... also did the diff oils, and greased the prop shaft UJ's..
Fitted in an oil change on Sloth's P38 aswell, so a good day of routine maintenance..
So with the good bit done, I'm now back to having LPG issues... this time with the ECU! I had the same symptom that OB had, dash switch didn't light up on one random occasion, and put it down to a gremlin (well, that's what I told myself whilst still quietly waiting for it to happen again, as I don't believe things like that are just random occasions!) and sure enough it did it again when I was out last week. The strange thing being that it then also wouldn't start on petrol?!?
Fortunately I managed to get it to do it again when I was at home, so I grabbed the multimeter and went probing - thinking that maybe I had disturbed a wire when I was doing the re-install, and that the fact it wouldn't start on petrol aswell would point towards the ignition switched wire, thus not giving power to the petrol injectors...
Hooked nanocom up, and figured that if it was that wire, then I wouldn't be able to communicate with engine ECU, as it's switched feed is spliced off that wire aswell, but connected to engine ECU, no trouble.
Checked battery +ve and switched +ve at LPG ECU, and both present and accounted for. Checked 5V out from ECU, and nothing. Gotcha....
Took ECU into garage and pulled it apart - massive heat patch on the board emanating from the 5V regulator, and the bigger electrolytic caps were bulging... figured that was my problem, so swapped the caps for a couple which I had that were close in value (and ordered correct values to replace with when they arrived) and put a new 5V reg in.. checked 5V output on the bench and it was there, but now pulsing from 5V-0V... metered the 12V feed into the reg, and it was dropping out aswell - was going from about 11.8V to 1V and then coming back up again. Strange... It was getting late and had to go up to the workshop the next day (saturday for oil change and servicing) so figured sod it - and wired the 12V to the new reg direct from one of the live 12V inputs (which is what it normally is - through a couple of resistors, diode, transistor etc) and had a solid 5V there afterwards - switch lit up in the vehicle when powered up, happy days.
Up at the workshop - went to start, and nothing on dash switch again, and wouldn't fire on petrol. Pulled 12V live fuse to LPG ECU and it started on petrol... and that's how it is now...
So I'm pretty sure that this ECU is pretty well poked - I will try and repair it/replace the caps and get to the bottom of the issue - but I am also looking at just buying a new ECU, as this one is ~8/9yrs old. My question is... do I buy a King one, and then just plug it in, config it, swap my LPG nozzles over for the bigger ones and calibrate it? Or do I use this as an opportunity to swap to a different brand ECU which is better at running the low impedance Hana injectors (though the King one has Hana parameters - I know from what Simon mentions about them not being the best for the ECU), or go with the AEB system, which will just plug straight in with no other modifications needed?
Also, is it worth me doing a 'mod' on a new King ECU (if I go that route) to maybe removing the factory fitted 5V regulator, and fitting an external one, wired to the board, but bolted to the metal ECU case, as it obviously runs pretty hot, given how brown a large portion of the ECU PCB is on my old one...
Also, is it likely that the lowere impedance injectors are what has 'finished off' the old ECU? even though the issue is on the feed somewhere to the 5V regulator, and the MOSFETs (I presume that's what they are that drive the LPG injectors) look fine, no brown/heat related marks around any of them... and I would imagine they have a 12V feed to them anyway..
Thoughts?
Dates... I'm thinking either 24th/25th June, or 1st/2nd July.
Might be worth having a vacuum cleaner about to hoover up all the old orange bits as the headliner cards are prepped... if it is fine, then we can probably do the prepping of the cards outside, and then the re-gluing of new fabric being done inside - with the doors open obviously! as there will be less chance of airbourne dust etc getting onto things if it's a bit windy...
OK - headlinings..
I've been in touch with both Martrim and the other place on eBay that does the kits. I said that we would be looking for between 5 and 8 kits. One in Black (myself) and the rest (from what the general response has been) in the colour which is closest to what LR used to begin with.
I've had a reply from both suppliers, which I have copied/pasted below:
Martrim:
Hi Martin,
We can offer a discount, if you were to purchase all the kits together.
The standard price for a kit is £72, this includes material (3.5m), adhesive (3 tins) and delivery.
For reference:
5 kits would cost £360 individually or £294.20 if purchased together.
8 Kits would cost £576 individually or £452.40 if purchased together.
I can send you samples of all our Nylon headlining, this would help to match existing trim.
To do this I require a full delivery address, if this is of interest.
Kind Regards,
Ben
Martim Land Rover Headlining Kits
AS-Trim:
Good Afternoon Martin,
Yes we can do discounts for larger orders.
If you send me the exact number or wait until you are ready we can work out the best way to purchase from us. We cut all our materials from the roll, certainly it would be cheaper to buy a long length in one hit and to bulk buy cans. We have a sample book available with all the colours we stock, I will include a link at the bottom.
Best regards
Trim Sample Book
I have also found just the headlining page too:
Headlining Colours (extra wide)
So - as a follow up for this, can I get some firm-ish idea as to who is definitely interested, and what colour you would be interested in, from both suppliers. Martrim have their colours listed on their website aswell.
I'll be going for either:
AS Trim:
1x Black Textured Nylon
2x Either Oatmeal, or Oyster Grey - depending on what looks closer to factory - I think Vanilla might be too light - but happy to go on a consensus!
Martim:
1x Black
2x Either Suede Beige, or Cashmere (probably Cashmere)
The factory colour from LR was slightly grey to start with and is listed as 'Mist' in the parts catalogues..
Thoughts?
Haha, I haven't sold a door latch in months.. mostly as I need to get stuck in to cleaning parts, and actually building some, and I'm running low on CDL motors..
That and to be fair, half the time nothing has any availability as I'm away!
Well, just to be safe, since I seem to be the only one who repairs/sells parts for P38's... And don't have an ad... I've removed the link to my webshop from my signature.