Nothing immediately obvious (although there is a random wire with an inline fuse under there, and the radio wiring has been butchered). Bigger issue now is that neither original nor copy key will unlock the door - assume the loose handle has somehow misaligned the lock barrel. Got in with the fob (which decided to work, but seemingly doesn’t unlock the driver’s door), but it will have to wait as I’m away. Let’s hope the battery doesn’t go flat in the meantime.

Just had a chance to have another look - the key and the driver’s door locking button lock and unlock everything but the front passenger door; the front passenger door locking button locks and unlocks everything but the driver’s door (with indicator flash). I can see the passenger door card has been off, so someone has been there before me…

As for keys, I can recommend “auto-locksmith” on eBay - £10.50 for a plain key cut from a photo, arrived in a couple of days and actually works.

Revisiting this, had ten minutes today - presumably there’s no issue with removing the batteries in the (not properly synced) fob if solely using the key to unlock and lock? The bodged fob case is pressing a button internally somehow and the LED is almost always illuminated. I’ve worked out that the central locking via driver’s door lock doesn’t lock the passenger door, but manually locking the passenger door with the lock button does lock it and the rear doors.

Timpson couldn’t provide a blank key blade (after half an hour’s drive to the branch which apparently could), and then proceeded to butcher my spare fob blank - now to find a Silca HU109FP or equivalent…

As usual, that’s a great help - that was my procedure when disconnecting, so hopefully I won’t be annoying the neighbours.

Haven’t had a chance to investigate current drain yet; have a new battery waiting to go on, so will monitor then - thanks.

No doubt as a reminder of previous current drain issues, I have a battery isolator switch - without a working key fob, is there a way to avoid or minimise any risk of the alarm going off when unlocking and reconnecting the battery?

EKA code came next-day via the local dealer (apparently the request goes to JLR Classic) - surprised.

Also, tailgate button not working is down to the connector having a broken clip - works fine when held against the button.

Thanks. I have seat memory - assume that means there’s an outstation box under there for it.

‘95 4.6 HSE - with the ignition on, there is more often than not a rapid, constant relay clicking noise from under the driver’s seat - I think it stops when the engine starts, but the hole in the back box may be masking it; it also starts when the seat backrest button is pressed. Pulling fuse 10 for the seats has stopped it for the time being - before I take it to bits, has anyone encountered this before? Are the seat relays separate units?

Thanks, that’s really helpful (it’s a 1995 car) - another thing to do along with the door handle cams…

Thanks. Supposedly they use a different vice for cutting these keys - I know somewhere that should be able to sort it.

If the latch is at fault, what’s likely to need replacing (i.e. can I buy a replacement, or is it going to be trying to swap microswitches)?

Had a go at re-pairing the fob earlier - fob does appear to work (perhaps intermittently), but will only lock and unlock the rear doors, whereas using the key in the lock operates them all - presumably there’s an issue with front central locking actuators.

Seemed to confuse itself and “ENGINE IMMOBILISED” appeared - some messing with the key again and it started. Local Timpson couldn’t cut a new key, so I’ll try again when I’ve found somewhere that can.

Also have no response from the tailgate button - I know this is earthed via the driver’s door,; not sure if it’s linked or not.

Thanks very much - will attempt and report back once the rain stops…

Looking for some advice - recently bought (on a whim…) an early, neglected 4.6 HSE. Amongst the many things to sort, it has only one key - which is an aftermarket flip fob (previously split and cable-tied together) in the style of the original. The fob LED illuminates when the lock button is pressed, but it doesn’t lock or unlock the car.

The key blade locks, unlocks and starts the car - I assume this means that the immobiliser has previously been bypassed via the BECM.

I’d like to have a working remote to avoid relying on the door lock not falling to bits, and I don’t have the EKA code - what’s my best option?