Will a standard OBDII scanner read specific ABS and HEVAC error codes on a GEMS 4.6? Not with the car to confirm.

I know Nancom is the usual answer, but I’m hoping not to have to spend £500 if I don’t need to…

Appreciate this is possibly against the DIY ethos of the site, but a combination of lack of facilities, ULEZ and logistics means that I could do with finding a well-priced, no-nonsense mechanic to get some P38 things sorted (before I cut my losses!).

Among the multitude of the usual P38 problems, I’d like to find someone to do the front ball joints with a proper press tool, ABS sensors/further investigation and, possibly, blend motors. Car is in Yorkshire, I can travel if it’s financially worthwhile. Any recommendations?

First long trip in the P38 today (to somewhere I can work on it) - it has a fairly bad vibration above about 55 mph, strong enough to rattle everything that’s loose and shake the passenger seat very noticeably. It doesn’t seem to be coming from the front axle (no steering shake or vibration, definitely not death wobble), and feels too strong for an unbalanced wheel or bad tyre; does it under acceleration, cruising and when lifting off, and coasting in neutral doesn’t stop it. It possibly eases slightly at around 80 and gets worse beyond 90. No evidence of a binding brake, and both engine and gearbox are smooth, with no untoward noises.

Aside from an unbalanced/misaligned prop or a bad UJ, any guesses for what to look at? I’d hoped to dismiss the flex plate given it still does it when in neutral.

No doubt as a reminder of previous current drain issues, I have a battery isolator switch - without a working key fob, is there a way to avoid or minimise any risk of the alarm going off when unlocking and reconnecting the battery?

‘95 4.6 HSE - with the ignition on, there is more often than not a rapid, constant relay clicking noise from under the driver’s seat - I think it stops when the engine starts, but the hole in the back box may be masking it; it also starts when the seat backrest button is pressed. Pulling fuse 10 for the seats has stopped it for the time being - before I take it to bits, has anyone encountered this before? Are the seat relays separate units?

Looking for some advice - recently bought (on a whim…) an early, neglected 4.6 HSE. Amongst the many things to sort, it has only one key - which is an aftermarket flip fob (previously split and cable-tied together) in the style of the original. The fob LED illuminates when the lock button is pressed, but it doesn’t lock or unlock the car.

The key blade locks, unlocks and starts the car - I assume this means that the immobiliser has previously been bypassed via the BECM.

I’d like to have a working remote to avoid relying on the door lock not falling to bits, and I don’t have the EKA code - what’s my best option?