rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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No XP support? That’s a shame as the only Windows thing I’ve got (just used for other car diagnostic stuff) is still on XP. Back to the drawing board…

Thanks - I’ve used the RSW basic EAS software before on my LSE.

Thanks, I’ll have a look - fortunately, airbags seem to be one of the few things that aren’t going wrong…

Will a standard OBDII scanner read specific ABS and HEVAC error codes on a GEMS 4.6? Not with the car to confirm.

I know Nancom is the usual answer, but I’m hoping not to have to spend £500 if I don’t need to…

Luton fire was started by an early diesel L494 RR Sport, wasn’t a hybrid.

My intermittent tailgate button was down to a cracked connector clip on the end of the loom. (Also have tailgate top corner drips to sort).

The post-2018 facelift cars use ultra-wideband keys which can’t have the signal recorded or relayed - so the thieves use CAN injection (on L494/L405s, they chop a hole in the right hand side of the tailgate to access specific CAN bus wires, then connect an electronic device which communicates with the various ECUs by injecting fake messages to convince the car that the correct key is there).

Problem is that for several thousand euros you can buy an OBD dongle that can programme a new key even if the alarm’s active - just pick the lock and a few seconds later, you’re away:

https://youtu.be/uRe2evNbWsg?si=C90raCNjJs0Wi76b

A few have gone from around me in town - think there are methods to physically prevent the tailgate cut CAN injection thefts, but you really shouldn’t have to…

Appreciate this is possibly against the DIY ethos of the site, but a combination of lack of facilities, ULEZ and logistics means that I could do with finding a well-priced, no-nonsense mechanic to get some P38 things sorted (before I cut my losses!).

Among the multitude of the usual P38 problems, I’d like to find someone to do the front ball joints with a proper press tool, ABS sensors/further investigation and, possibly, blend motors. Car is in Yorkshire, I can travel if it’s financially worthwhile. Any recommendations?

Sticking the P38 on a classic policy was around a third as much as the lowest comparison site quotes (and with agreed value etc) - as for increases this year, the best online quote for a four-year-old L405 was £9k - they really don’t want the business!

Thanks - wheel refurb and new tyres next up, so I’ll see what that does before unbolting anything else…

First long trip in the P38 today (to somewhere I can work on it) - it has a fairly bad vibration above about 55 mph, strong enough to rattle everything that’s loose and shake the passenger seat very noticeably. It doesn’t seem to be coming from the front axle (no steering shake or vibration, definitely not death wobble), and feels too strong for an unbalanced wheel or bad tyre; does it under acceleration, cruising and when lifting off, and coasting in neutral doesn’t stop it. It possibly eases slightly at around 80 and gets worse beyond 90. No evidence of a binding brake, and both engine and gearbox are smooth, with no untoward noises.

Aside from an unbalanced/misaligned prop or a bad UJ, any guesses for what to look at? I’d hoped to dismiss the flex plate given it still does it when in neutral.

A thank you to Martyuk for getting the latches and filter to me next-day when he had far more important things to be doing.

Thanks Marty, very useful - interested if you do have any latches.

That makes sense, thanks.

Ah, the later catches appear to have a single plug.

Gilbertd wrote:
The P38 has a 6way and a 1 way plug, the MG latch has a 6 way and a 2 way,

Revisiting this - some MGF latches which seemingly have the correct part number have only the single 6-way connector for the LH door, presumably they aren’t the right ones. What is the smaller second connector?

Had the fob refurbished and it works (although can’t use it until the central locking is fixed).

Here’s a link to the eBay account.

Nothing immediately obvious (although there is a random wire with an inline fuse under there, and the radio wiring has been butchered). Bigger issue now is that neither original nor copy key will unlock the door - assume the loose handle has somehow misaligned the lock barrel. Got in with the fob (which decided to work, but seemingly doesn’t unlock the driver’s door), but it will have to wait as I’m away. Let’s hope the battery doesn’t go flat in the meantime.

Just had a chance to have another look - the key and the driver’s door locking button lock and unlock everything but the front passenger door; the front passenger door locking button locks and unlocks everything but the driver’s door (with indicator flash). I can see the passenger door card has been off, so someone has been there before me…

As for keys, I can recommend “auto-locksmith” on eBay - £10.50 for a plain key cut from a photo, arrived in a couple of days and actually works.