Hey,
Got a Prins Vsi multipoint injected system.
I have to let it warm before being able to switch over.
No lpg for now, I'm just happy to be driving again ! Yeeew
Alright another big day today.
Sitting down with a mate at the pub we were talking about my car and how LPG is practical and economical on such a big V8.
As you recall everything on the car works fine until it gets to about 95C,and then only o2 voltage drops, and it smells of petrol etc etc
And at some point my friend said "only thing that bugs me with LPG is that you have to start on petrol, let it heat up and then you can switch to Lpg"
And I had a House MD light bulb illumination moment. We disconnected the red and black wires of the lpg system from the battery positive and negative, started the car (already up to temperature) and instantly both 02 sensors started fluctuating as they should, and the strong petrol smell disappeared instantly.
We reset the adaptive values and went for a drive.
Problem solved !!
Well, not completely, but at least now we know that it's when the LPG becomes available that something happens that causes the signal to crash. Probably something to do with the emulators or the wiring... But that's for later
I'm so happy
Thank you all, great forum and great people !
Not sure if I understand correctly.
You mean inserting a very thin piece of conductive metal in the connector, where the wire from the sensor enters the connector ?
Thanks
Yeah I cleaned them, maybe not thoroughly enough though.. I didn't plug/unplugged it a few times as you said..
I'm thinking maybe after plugin and unplugging it a few times (when i was checking the resitance and continuity of the wires) maybe I damaged one of the wires..
Couldn't I just rewire the 3 wires (he 4th goes to the fuse box so i'll leave it alone) form the sensor connector under the car, straight to the connector on the ECU ? A sort of "new loom" for testing purposes ?
Alright big day today
Swapped the Ecu, reset, nothing.
Replaced coils and leads, reset, nothing.
(a mate of mine had done it once on another p38..he did mine, coils and leads, in 20 minutes, without removing the plenum and with all the lpg stuff on top. Thought I'd mention that !)
Reset, nothing.
The worst thing is...problem has now switched sides without any reason. It's now the bank a sensor that inevitably drops to zero after 10 minutes of working fine.
So we spent the next hour swapping sensors (2 new ones from 3 months ago,and the original ones from a year ago that I thought were faulty) , and resetting values.
...still the same...
So far are OK, or new :
Plugs
Wires
Coils
Ecu
Sensors
Wiring
No exhaust leak
No manifold leak
I'm losing my mind...
Ahaha I thought so too. Had it been in the BECM menu, I might have tried it. But being in the motronic menu it does'nt make much sense for the engine ECU to "learn" something..
I won't touch it. I promise. Sorry for the scare !
cheers.
I also found a "learn security code" just above the "reset adaptive values" button...
Could it be the magic button that replaces the procedure we're talking about ?
Don't worry, I'll reset the values, and check everything. I have the nano for a couple days maybe 3, so I'll check as much as i can.
Just hope that if i have to change the coils, it wan't take me 2 days to do... !!!!
I'll stick in the new ecu first, learn code, reset, and test drive
if not enough, i'll change the HT leads. Reset values.
If not enough, coils and reset the values.
After that, the 02 sensors, plugs, coils, ecu, leads will be new or "know that it works" second hand.
Found this on another post, is it correct ?
Remove old ECU,
Refit new ECU,
Before trying to start it, with the nanocom, key in Pos II, Go into P38 -> Motronic -> Motronic -> Settings. Arrow across to the 3rd page and at the bottom is 'Immobilisation Code' write this number down.
Then exit out back to the list of ECU's.
Turn ignition OFF (BECM responds best to diagnostics with ignition off)
Go into BECM -> Settings -> Alarm. You should get 'DIAGNOSTICS MODE' on the message centre. Don't worry if you don't just yet as long as you can still talk to the BECM!
Arrow across to the last page and you will see a box with 'Immobilisation Code' above it.
Tap the white box, and delete the original digits. Write in the digits you wrote down from the settings in the engine ECU.
Press Red X once,
Press 'Write Settings'
You'll get a confirmation.
Then exit out and 'DIAGNOSTICS MODE' should disappear from the dash.
Done.
Then put key back in ignition, and start her up!<br/>
Hope this helps..
Orangebean wrote:
Nano will sync BECM to ECU. Did an ECU swap on mine recently.
On a Thor, read code from ECU (3 or 4 digits) and enter into BECM. Save settings in BECM.
While in ECU with Nano, make sure rest of settings are correct for car and reset adaptives.
Hey Orangebean,
Is it really that simple ? I mean sounds like it's a 3 click job to enter the code in the BECM...
I have never used a Nano so wouldn't want to brick the becm...
Any precisions or tips would be greatly appreciated !
Thanks a lot
RRHSG wrote:
Managed to find a coil pack and an engine ECU from a mate on another forum for €50...
If that and the new plugs and wires, and a reset of the adaptive values don't cure the problem...then cats it is...
Yes, but a mate will come with a Nanocom...I'll stick the leads, reset values and check. Then change the ECU (yes you need the nanocom to mate the ECU and the BECM) and reset again.. Looks fun
Managed to find a coil pack and an engine ECU from a mate on another forum for €50...
If that and the new plugs and wires, and a reset of the adaptive values don't cure the problem...then cats it is...
Gilbertd wrote:
Leak in the exhaust manifold you'd hear and it didn't sound like it had one on the video. You can at least check you've got ignition switched 12V arriving at the sensor connector.
Tested it. 12V does arrive. As well, when the engine is turned on, the sensor, still hanging under the car, heats up..
So I'd definitely say it's a simple ignition problem... Or at least I'm hoping!
Well, I've tested the wiring with a mate. From connector (sensor) to connector (ECU). Nothing is grounded, all the wires have continuity, everything is good.
Then as I said, I unscrewed the sensor, but left it plugged in. Turned on the ignition, it didn't get hot.
Next test will be to unscrew the sensor leaving it plugged in, plugging the hole with an old sensor and turning on the engine.
If it does not get hot within 40 seconds, since the sensors are new and the wiring is OK, then the ecu is #(@/%&
If it does get hot, then I'm thinking either the ignition leads or a leak in the exhaust manifold..
Mmmhhhh
Yep, problem doesn't change side.....
Hi Gilbertd,
Yes I did the same, slowed it down and counted. However, a flash lasts 2 millisecond, and at 60 fps, it means a frame is taken every 16 milliseconds...so it's possible we can't see the flashes but they're actually there... And if you look closely frame by frame, on a flasher that appears to be off, you can actually see a red glare around it...maybe indicating that the flash did happen 1 millisecond before, or 1 after...and the camera missed it...
On the other hand, when I was in front of the car, looking at the flashers, I did notice some blanks in the flashing...pretty muck like in the video.
I did a video on bank A, and it kinda looks like it's doing the same thing...see what you think Video
However, quick question; I noticed my car goes into closed circuit after the coolant reaches 94°C...and not before. During that time, no petrol smell, and only condensation out the tail pipe. No fuel. Almost an eco friendly rover...
And I also read in the Rave, that the sensors are ready to go (heated enough) after 30 seconds from a cold start.
Therefore my car should switch from open loop to closed circuit 30 seconds after a cold start.. It does not...
Zeroing in on the problem ?
So I unscrewed the sensor, let it hang under the car and turned on the ignition... Stayed cold on the touch for as long as I tested, 2 minutes.
Maybe this test should be carried out with the engine actually running ? Using an old sensor fitted in but not plugged in just to cover the hole...
Cheeeers
Alright, some news !
Well no news really, haven't had a lot of time to fiddle with the beast...
However, I did manage to test my ignition system....Please take a look at this video I made (watch it at 60fps) and tell me what you think....
cheers
Ha !
It'll be a pleasure to meet you!
Hopefully it'll be ready before may... I can't wait to have it back on the road. I fixed everything else that was wrong with it : dead cats, rusted silencers, put on a glass pack, new maf, eas drivebox, steering pump leaking, viscous fan not working, swapped ugly 16s for 18 hurricanes, down to installing foot lamps and missing puddle lamps...and replacing all lights by LED's (cheap and looking really good).
So thanks a lot for the offer, we'll definitely meet, but for my sanity I honestly wish I won't need your help eheheh!!
Oi!
Fiddled with spark plugs today.
1st:
Put current bank A plugs (looking good) on bank B (fouled and black). And 4 new iridium on bank A.
No changes. Voltage irresistibly goes down to 0 on bank B. Mixture still seen super lean.
2nd : put the other 4 iridium plugs on bank B
No changes....
It's starting to seriously piss me off.. 😀!
gordonjcp wrote:
Mine is definitely a bit smoother and has more poke with new plugs, gapped to 0.7mm.
love the CX ! Great car !!