Just doing a little reading up to see what needs to come out to get at my blend motors and heater core temperature sensor. Obviously the dashboard is in the way so I'm looking at the RAVE instructions for taking that out.

RAVE says that the steering column needs to come - is that strictly necessary or is one of those things that just gives a little extra room?

If this fails would it show -20 degrees in Nanocom?

Mine is showing -20 degrees.

I've been a bit silly. I've driven off with the filler cap on the rear bumper having forgotten to refit it.

Didn't notice until three days later. Oops.

Looking on eBay but not sure if I've found the right thing as it says "outside UK":

Is there any reason this wouldn't fit a UK filler valve/nozzle/pipe/whatever the thing is called?

The actual coverings for the seats, not the flimsy things you can get to protect the seats.

Are they all the same in terms of shape and dimensions for leather/cloth and manual/electric?

Besides the cars that got the extra fancy leather, I know they at least got a slightly different shape rear bench.

On the home page of the forum it shows that I have unread threads in the Opening Time section - the speech bubbles to the left show red.

When I open Opening Time all of the threads have white speech bubbles to show they've been read.

I then click the "Mark as read" button and that fixes it on the home page, until there's a new post made. I read this new post, everything shows as read again and I go back to the home page.

The home page then shows that I have unread post in Opening Time, which I don't

It only seems to be happening with Opening Time.

Anyone else getting this?

A guy in my Land Rover club has moved on from his two P38's to an L322 and is having a clearout of parts.

He's offered me his old single exit stainless steel exhaust for £550-£600, including a set of standard cats and the O2 sensors. The cats and Y-pipe are mild steel, everything after that is stainless. It came off a 1999 Thor.

He had it custom made with off roading in mind (he's heavily in to the competitive trials side of our club). The pipe that goes across the car that joins the two cats together is raised up to stop it getting squashed off road. This is slightly oval in shape too but this is by design and not off road damage. The rear silences is smaller than standard, again for the slightly increased clearance off road.

It has a Powerflow centre box so is slightly louder than stock.

It's in Melton Mowbray and is strictly collection only - the cat Y-pipe is welded to the centre pipe so is too large to package up and post.

I'd take it if I could but just don't have the funds at the moment!

He has a bunch of other parts available too as he broke one of his P38's for parts and sent the shell off to be scrapped. If you need anything let me know and I'll message him and ask if its available.

Plugged in my new (to me) Nanocom yesterday and went through all the screens.

LOTS of engine codes, mostly inactive and relating to misfires - which I knew about as the car nearly caught fire a few weeks ago. It was worse than I thought at the time though!

Present faults:

P0134 - Lambda Bank 1 Signal Missing (x2)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent, causes MIL lamp (x132)
NA - Signal Missing. Persistent, causes MIL Lamp (x129)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent (x1)

The first one seems straight forward - no signal from the lamda sensor. Loose connection, dead sensor etc.

Not sure where to start with the NA ones though. I have no MIL lamp on despite the fault descriptions.

I'm not really concerned with the following codes as they're not present and I knew it was misfiring before. It's interesting to see how bad it actually was. If I'd had the Nanocom at the time I wouldn't have left it to run as long as I did. It honestly only sounded and felt like a minor misfire in one cylinder! It does show me what the issue was though. Misfires on 4 cylinders - all 4 on the same coil. I must have had a loose ignition coil plug that was fixed by my random wiggling of all the connectors I could reach.

Not present:

P1000 - Lambda Bank 2 Signal missing (x170)
P1300 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Multiple cylinders (x2)
P1301 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 1 (x1)
P0304 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 4 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 6 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 7 (x2)
P1319 - Misfire with low fuel (x2)
P0175 - Additive Adaptive Mixture Correction TRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x7)
P0175 - Mixture Adaption Factor FRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x14)

Cylinder 5 is showing a value of 1.89 for roughness. The other cylinders are all at 0.00. Not sure what this means. What units is this measured in? I think this was the cylinder that I found a small amount burnt black crud in. Slight oil leak affecting combustion that the ECU is noticing?

One of my lambda sensors isn't behaving the same as the other one. Bank A is showing as completely stable at 0.28V with a stable output value of 0.99. Bank B is bouncing around rapidly with a voltage between 0.02 and 0.77. Bank B output value is bouncing between 0.95 and 1.05. At a guess, the once that's not changing is the once that's wrong? That would tie in with the active/present fault saying that the signal from bank 1 lambda is missing.

Sitting at idle it shows RPM at 760 with a target engine speed of 3120 - does this mean it's trying to achieve 3120rpm for some reason?

Sitting at idle it shows and engine load of 14%, internal and air temps of 45C, throttle open 0% and closed throttle 14.81V - do these values look ok or would they explain my intermittent high idle issue?

On the rough road screen the voltage reading is swapping between 0 and 12 about once every second, rough running is "ON" and rough road status is "ACTIVE". The compensation value is 0.01.

Then I'm on to blend motor issues (which I knew about before hand but have been living with). Left hand blend and distribution motors are short circuited to positive. Need to pull those and check the connections for corrosion and test the motors.

Next up is two things that I didn't know about. I found a screen that let me test the cruise control buttons. Ever since I've had the car the resume function of the cruise control hasn't worked. I assumed the switch was dead and didn't worry about it. Nanocom shows that the button DOES work. It shows pressed when I press it. Now I need to work out why it doesn't actually resume my CC.

Last up is a suspension height sensor out of range - although I have no suspension faults and it goes up and down perfectly.

Had a dipped beam bulb blow on the way home this evening so I need a new one.

Halfords and Autobulbsdirect are telling me the dipped beam is a single filament H7 but I was sure it's a two filament H4. I'm sure it does both dipped and main beam with an additional main beam H7.

It's too cold and dark and wet for me to go look at it right now...anyone able to confirm for me?

Since replacing my head gaskets I've had an issue with misfiring (causing a heatshield fire), revs sticking and a high idle.

The misfire cleared itself up - I never found what was causing it as when I came back to the car to take a look it was running fine.

The sticking revs was really bad straight after the rebuild. Initially they would stick/hold at whatever RPM I revved up to, occasionally continuing to rise slowly on their own. I'd have to turn the engine off to correct this.

After a little while the engine would rev up and the revs would drop on their own - only to get stuck at around 2K RPM. Again, the only way I found to stop this was to turn the engine off. Sometimes the RPM would drop quickly from whatever I revved up to down to 2K where it would "snag" and then drop more slowly.

When I was finally able to drive it I found that it was holding revs well enough on it's own to chug along at 30mph without needing the accelerator pedal. Not slowing down on it's own and not speeding up. Using the brakes would slow the car down and the engine revs seemed fine once I came to a stop.

Now, after having it on the road for a few days the rev holding seems to have settled down and it's not sticking at any RPM but I have noticed that my idle RPM seems high. It seems to vary between 1,100RPM and 800RPM. It's not bouncing between these values, it's just sitting smoothly at different points in this range at any given time I look at it. It never gets as low as the 660RPM that RAVE says it should be.

I've had a brief chat with Sloth about it as the symptoms seemed to match an old thread of his that I found online. He said he fixed his by moving the throttle cable routing. My cable seems to be routed well and as far as I can see the cable is moving freely. The throttle body seems to be closing fully when the throttle pedal is released - the cables are returning to rest against the stop properly. I tried to check the throttle body by removing the intake pipe with the engine running but the engine immediately died. I guess the sudden change in airflow was just too much for it cope with. I think my symptoms are now a bit different to his.

Given that I lack a Nanocom to investigate with, can anyone suggest things for me to try to diagnose this issue?

I've seen a few threads online (mostly Disco 2 related, in America) saying that they've reset the adaptive values and that's sorted high idle issues. Is this only possible with a Nanocom?

Anyone know how the pumps are assembled/disassembled?

Wondering what mine looks like inside and if it can be rebuilt cheaply as a spare. The bearings and impeller look and feel absolutely fine so hopefully it's just a seal that needs replacing.

At a guess the wheel the pulley bolts to is pressed or threaded on to the shaft which holds everything else in?

Fresh off the back of replacing the head gaskets to fix one coolant leak and a week after a clean MOT where no coolant was leaking the car has sprung another leak!

Bottom right hand side of the radiator and the pipes below that are soaked and it's leaving a large puddle under the car. Over night the level in the header tank has dropped about two inches.

The thermostat appears dry in this image so I don't think it's leaking from there.

The view from the top shows no leak from there and the (brand new) top hose is dry.

So...what lives on that side of the radiator and is located somewhere above the thermostat but below the top hose that could leak coolant?

I'm really hoping no one says there's nothing and it must be a split radiator :(

Is it worth us having a thread to share any good deals we find for things Range Rover related? Tools, parts, mods etc.

I don't have any to share yet (at work with very restricted internet access) has anyone else found anything useful?

Someone here was looking for one a while ago - did you find one?

Sjovn Xii on the Range Rover P38 UK Facebook group has put up a post saying he has one.

How many PPM should a well running LPG system give for the emissions test at MOT?

Just finished putting the car back together rather replacing the head gaskets, fired it up and left it to run a while to get the coolant drawn through.

I'm pretty sure there's a miss fire as it's running a little lumpy but it smooths out a little when it warms up. When blipping the throttle the revs seem to cough/dip before rising.

After a while a good amount of smoke started rising from the back of the engine bay.

Looked underneath and found this:

Got the fire extinguisher out and cooled it down and the smoke eventually stopped.

Would a miss fire cause the cat to get hot enough to almost set fire to the heatshielding on the floor? I'm thinking the unburnt fuel from the miss fire is being pumped in to the cat where it's burning off.

What's weird is that the cat itself wasn't glowing and the red patch is only at the rear of the cat rather alongside the whole cat.

When it had cooled a bit I reached down to the coil and made sure all the leads were attached, they seemed ok but one or two did move in a little. I then checked the leads to the plugs and they seemed ok too.

I then started the engine up but I'm not sure if it sounded better or not. I didn't let it run long.

Pulled the spark plugs out (passenger side) and looked at them. I'm not sure of the cylinder numbers but I think that side is 1, 3, 5 and 7? 1 and 7 were a nice grey-ish colour and 3 and 5 were black.

Possible miss fires on 3 and 5 that cleared up with the leads/plug check and the excess fuel then burnt off and turned them black on the second start up?

Or, any other ideas? Kind of reluctant to start it up again until I get the fire extinguisher refilled!

We now have a 2004 TD4 Freelander in the household and finding that the copy of RAVE that I have seems to have very little for the TD4 Freelander.

It only seems to have service procedures for the 1.8 and 2.5 petrol engines - which makes sense as the workshop manual is listed as 3rd edition - NAS.

Is there a version out there that has procedures for the TD4?

Does the P38 V8 engine have unusually large valves?

I bought a valve spring compressor but none of the adapters are large enough. The kits goes up to 30mm but I measured the valve spring (after finding it didn't fit) and it seems to be 31mm.

This is the kit I bought:

neilsen CT1112 Valve Spring Compressor Kit - Red (7-Piece) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0044ZRCMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kl4XBb334JHAM

Anyone know if larger adapters are available? I can't find any so far.

Took my cylinder heads off today and found this inside one of the cylinders:

The car ran completely fine with no roughness or smoke or any else.

Any ideas?

Bloody heatshields...

All the bolts have rusted away meaning I can't undo any of them. Having to get a little "creative (destructive) with them - bending and peeling the heatshields back.

I've got all of the bolts out except the very last one on the driver's side. The one closest to the firewall, under the manifold pipes.

I can't get any tools on it at all with the heatshield in place and bent as far as it will go. It's hitting the steering shaft and I'd really, really like to avoid removing that if possible. I don't think removing that will improve matters anyway as the heatshield will still be in place.

I've seen that it can be accessed through the wheel arch but presumably only with the heatshield removed? If I can get to it through the wheel arch with the heatshield on and the steering shaft in place I'll go that route but access is tight for a jack where I'm parked. Don't really want to add work for myself if it's not going to work.

Any other bright ideas on how to get at this bolt?

My dad's car went for an MOT on Saturday. It was done at Kwik Fit and it's an 08 plate Mazda 5 1.8 petrol.

Prior to the MOT he had new front discs and pads as well as ARB drop links.

With the new parts fitted he drove off to the MOT and everything was fine.

The car went through the MOT and everything was fine.

Soon after leaving the MOT his car started making all sorts of noises.

Front left wheel clicks when turning.

There's a bang/knock somewhere central when changing gear or letting off the power but staying in gear.

There's a kind of scratchy/rubbing/grindy noise somewhere in the front left.

Lastly, there's a creaking/squeaking noise somewhere high up on the front right when turning.

As mentioned, the car was fine before the MOT and the MOT didn't flag up anything suggesting these problems would be imminent.

My thoughts are CV joint for the clicking, gearbox mount for the banging, driveshaft support bearing (if it has one) for scratchy/rubbing noise and top mount for the creaking.

The problem is, how suddenly this all came on after leaving the MOT and how nothing was found by the tester. All of the noises are very loud and noticeable.

I don't want to accuse Kwik Fit of anything but is there anything they could have done to sabotage this kind of stuff to make work for themselves? My dad said the whole place was dead, nothing going on and several techs standing around smoking and chatting.

Or, is it likely that the tester was really, really bad at his job of finding this stuff and the MOT itself is suspect?