Anyone know how the pumps are assembled/disassembled?
Wondering what mine looks like inside and if it can be rebuilt cheaply as a spare. The bearings and impeller look and feel absolutely fine so hopefully it's just a seal that needs replacing.
At a guess the wheel the pulley bolts to is pressed or threaded on to the shaft which holds everything else in?
What kind of MPG are you guys getting on LPG?
My commute is around 20 miles each way. I have an option of going cross country with lots of windy corners, stopping, crossing main roads and accelerating back up to 60mph or taking the motorway which has 2-3 miles of stop start traffic at each end.
I leave it up to the satnav to decide which route I should take on any given day as it gets traffic updates etc.
I'm averaging somewhere around 14mpg on LPG.
Last year I had an intermittent book symbol and Gilbertd kindly read/cleared it for me and IIRC it was for a stuck blend flap.
I now have a permanent book symbol and the passenger side vents seem intent on pumping out hot air regardless of what I set it to.
I'm guessing this means the flap is now properly stuck for whatever reason.
Is this something that is only fixable with a new blend motor or is it possible that it's stuck for some other reason and needs taking apart to be freed? I'm reluctant to buy a motor and not need it but at the same time I don't want to take it all apart and find I need a motor that I don't have.
I have a new and interesting noise on my car.
It's developed a whistling noise that changes with RPM. It sounds like it's central, somewhere behind the dash and quite high up - perhaps near the windscreen.
It's not related to the air vents as it still happens with them set to the lowest speed/off.
If I prod the throttle and the gearbox kicks down the noise gets louder as the RPM jumps up. If I slowly increase engine speed the noise slowly increases as well.
It doesn't seem like wind noise as it's most noticeable at low speeds (before being drowned out by wind noise at higher speeds).
I can try to get a video later.
Air leak in the intake? Mines a Thor and given where I think the noise is I'm wondering if the "bunch of bananas" has cracked somehow.
Is this something that has been known to happen?
Does the P38 V8 engine have unusually large valves?
I bought a valve spring compressor but none of the adapters are large enough. The kits goes up to 30mm but I measured the valve spring (after finding it didn't fit) and it seems to be 31mm.
This is the kit I bought:
neilsen CT1112 Valve Spring Compressor Kit - Red (7-Piece) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0044ZRCMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kl4XBb334JHAM
Anyone know if larger adapters are available? I can't find any so far.
All the bolts have rusted away meaning I can't undo any of them. Having to get a little "creative (destructive) with them - bending and peeling the heatshields back.
I've got all of the bolts out except the very last one on the driver's side. The one closest to the firewall, under the manifold pipes.
I can't get any tools on it at all with the heatshield in place and bent as far as it will go. It's hitting the steering shaft and I'd really, really like to avoid removing that if possible. I don't think removing that will improve matters anyway as the heatshield will still be in place.
I've seen that it can be accessed through the wheel arch but presumably only with the heatshield removed? If I can get to it through the wheel arch with the heatshield on and the steering shaft in place I'll go that route but access is tight for a jack where I'm parked. Don't really want to add work for myself if it's not going to work.
Any other bright ideas on how to get at this bolt?
I recently replaced the little bits in the front door handles that wear out and cause them to stick/become stiff bit the passenger side one is still not quite right.
My girlfriend reports that it's getting worse and nearly needs two hands.
Will the handle from the passenger side rear door fit on the front door? They don't seem to wear out like the front ones and a used one should do the trick nicely if it fits.
How many PPM should a well running LPG system give for the emissions test at MOT?
I'm getting slightly bored of playing "Chase the perennial coolant leak" - whenever one leak is plugged another one pops up.
I'm looking at just replacing all of the hoses in big go and hoping that stops it, at least temporarily!
Looking online, almost all of the hoses seem to be Britpart and a few have Genuine Land Rover options available (at a not insignificant markup).
Are hoses one of the things that are generally OK to get from Britpart?
Replaced my front pads and discs today as one of the pads was down to the metal.
All went pretty smoothly. All the slider pins were seized which I figure caused the uneven wear. Freed them of and replaced them with new pins.
Went out for a test drive, did some light braking, heavier braking then tried emergency stops.
I can't get the ABS to kick in AT ALL. The pedal goes down to the floor but no ABS and no locking up. Just braking but taking longer to come to a stop than I'd like or expect.
When I got home and parked up I noticed some acrid smelling smoke from the driver's side brakes (this is the one that wore down to metal).
I've got no warning lights and I can't remember the last time I needed to stop hard enough for ABS so I don't know when the issue cropped up.
A couple of months ago I I was getting the brake warning light coming on so I replaced the accumulator. That solved the light coming on.
When I replaced it I post a small amount of fluid but the fluid was level with the top of the threads, so I assumed no air would have gotten in.
Bleed the brakes and see how it is after that?
Fresh off the back of replacing the head gaskets to fix one coolant leak and a week after a clean MOT where no coolant was leaking the car has sprung another leak!
Bottom right hand side of the radiator and the pipes below that are soaked and it's leaving a large puddle under the car. Over night the level in the header tank has dropped about two inches.
The thermostat appears dry in this image so I don't think it's leaking from there.
The view from the top shows no leak from there and the (brand new) top hose is dry.
So...what lives on that side of the radiator and is located somewhere above the thermostat but below the top hose that could leak coolant?
I'm really hoping no one says there's nothing and it must be a split radiator :(
Took my cylinder heads off today and found this inside one of the cylinders:
The car ran completely fine with no roughness or smoke or any else.
Just finished putting the car back together rather replacing the head gaskets, fired it up and left it to run a while to get the coolant drawn through.
I'm pretty sure there's a miss fire as it's running a little lumpy but it smooths out a little when it warms up. When blipping the throttle the revs seem to cough/dip before rising.
After a while a good amount of smoke started rising from the back of the engine bay.
Looked underneath and found this:
Got the fire extinguisher out and cooled it down and the smoke eventually stopped.
Would a miss fire cause the cat to get hot enough to almost set fire to the heatshielding on the floor? I'm thinking the unburnt fuel from the miss fire is being pumped in to the cat where it's burning off.
What's weird is that the cat itself wasn't glowing and the red patch is only at the rear of the cat rather alongside the whole cat.
When it had cooled a bit I reached down to the coil and made sure all the leads were attached, they seemed ok but one or two did move in a little. I then checked the leads to the plugs and they seemed ok too.
I then started the engine up but I'm not sure if it sounded better or not. I didn't let it run long.
Pulled the spark plugs out (passenger side) and looked at them. I'm not sure of the cylinder numbers but I think that side is 1, 3, 5 and 7? 1 and 7 were a nice grey-ish colour and 3 and 5 were black.
Possible miss fires on 3 and 5 that cleared up with the leads/plug check and the excess fuel then burnt off and turned them black on the second start up?
Or, any other ideas? Kind of reluctant to start it up again until I get the fire extinguisher refilled!
I've noticed a new damp patch appearing under the front of my car - it's a completely clear liquid that feels oily to touch and quickly goes tacky/sticky if I rub it between my fingers.
A very quick look under the front bumper shows it appears to be dripping from the bottom of the front diff - I don't know if it's coming from the diff itself or if it's dripping on to the diff from somewhere above. It seems fairly rapid leak - I was parked up at the side of the road for a couple of hours today and noticed a pool under the drip site about 15-20cm in diameter.
I just can't think what would be completely clear and oily - I'd expect any oil that was coming from the diff or inside something else with moving parts would be at least a little bit dirty. I've not put any fresh liquids in recently (besides a coolant top up - but that's red).
Engine, diff and transmission oils were done months ago but again, engine and transmission oil aren't clear. Not sure what colour the diff oil was though.
Any ideas what my mystery fluid could be?
As I was reversing and about to change back to D something happened to my gear lever.
The pull button that lets it move went slack, the lever is stuck in the R position and I can't select any gears!
Any ideas other than calling the RAC?
Took a trip up to see some friends on the Wirral at the weekend and took the P38. Not long after setting off there was a request from the passenger seat to keep it below 60mph, as her seat was wobbling.
We've had this before with the offroad wheels/tyres fitted and I've always put it down to poor balancing of the tyres and the fact that the steel wheels aren't hub-centric, like the alloys are. With the offroad set fitted I can also feel the wobble in my seat and the steering wheel and it gets worse the faster you go - which hasn't been a problem as our offroad trips are reasonably local and on rural roads so high speeds aren't really encountered. However, it's always 100% gone upon refitting the road set.
This weekend, my girlfriend said that the wobble was really bad in her seat but I could barely feel a thing through the steering wheel or through my own seat - which I found odd. If the car was shaking I'd expect to feel through the whole car and if she hadn't mentioned it I'm not sure I'd have noticed anything at all. It also seemed to come and go, and came in at different speeds throughout the journey. Sometimes 70mph was fine and sometimes she'd report the wobble as low as 50mph.
When fitting the wheels before the trip I made sure that the directional treads were all pointing the right way and I set the tyre pressures according to the handbook (28psi front, 38psi rear). The wheels were torqued to 80lbs ft while still in the air and doing each nut in a star pattern. The only difference on one wheel was a missing locking wheel nut cover. They were re-checked on arrival and everything was as it should be.
The wheels are the OEM 18" wheels (Hurricane style, I think), powdercoated grey and wearing 255/55 R18 tyres of a brand I've never heard of before buying this car.
I don't think the missing wheel nut cover would cause such wobbling and I'm hesitant to suspect the tyres, even though they're an unknown brand, as they've previously been fine and have sat in the garage since they were last used.
In other news, I somehow managed to get 28mpg (and climbing) showing on the screen between Uppingham and Leicester before hitting Friday afternoon traffic all the way north :(
Factoring in the traffic and including a period of 20 minutes sat not moving at all, we reached our destination showing 20.0 - which I was pleasantly surprised by.
Do the seat belts differ according to VIN number?
I've got my MOT coming up and the webbing on the N/S/R seat belt is frayed/slightly cut. Has been like that since I bought the car earlier this year.
Didn't notice it until recently.
I've been looking at various places and some list them as being suitable up to a given VIN number and some are just listing a seat belt for the entire production run.
Got in the car to head to work this morning and found a rather concerning and very loud ticking/clicking sound. It sounded like it was coming from behind the dials or steering wheel/column. It didn't seem to change with revs or speed. It sounded the same while parked at idle as it did while travelling at 15-20mph.
It didn't start straight away. It started about 30 seconds after I started moving. I pulled over, took my phone out and attempted to take a video of it - but it stopped. The noise lasted about 30 seconds and went away.
It didn't come back for the rest of the journey and the car seems to be driving fine.
It must have heard about my plans to spend some money on it to swap the radio system and fit LPG and decided that it either doesn't want to be used as a daily or doesn't like my plans and wants money spent on something else instead :(
Anyone come across anything like this?
I have clear, clean water leaking into the passenger side footwell. It's coming down both sides of the footwell:
Here you can see where the drops are falling from:
And here is an indication of just how much water is making its way inside the car:
I'm familiar with the AC vents getting blocked and causing water to drip down the side of the transmission tunnel but not so familiar with the leak on the other side of the footwell. I'm also doubtful that the AC drain would produce that much water over the course of a 20 minute minute journey.
The cleanliness of the water and the fact it's on both sides leads me to think it's not the heater matrix O-rings leaking.
I've only noticed it when it rains, which it has been doing a lot over the last few days,
Are there any common/known culprits for a leak like this or do I need to start stripping out bits of dashboard and pointing the hose at the car?
Like the title says, I've been away for a while but I''m back now!
Been a busy few months. Found we have a baby on the way so the Range Rover got sidelined as an unnecessary expense and lead to me not looking at Range Rover forums so much. We sold my 3dr Focus to buy something newer, safer and with more doors. Ended up getting a 58-plate Mondeo. Owned that for 3 weeks, two of which it spent back at the dealer being worked on before we lost confidence in it and got out money back. Most unreliable piece of crap I've ever owned - and I've got a P38!
This means the P38 is coming out of its short-lived retirement and being pressed in to daily driver duties. This also means it's going to need a bloody good service!
Priced up most of it but not really sure about the gearbox oil. I've seen conflicting information about how much oil it will need. I'm not planning on flushing it, just dropping the sump and replacing what drains out, replace the filter and put the sump back on. Some people online are saying that this will only need around 5-6 litres, some say it will take closer to 10. That's quite a bit difference in the amount of oil and it's not cheap stuff.
I don't want to get stuck with either too little or too much oil so thought I'd pop back on here to ask the opinion of those that I actually trust. So, how much oil does this take in your experience?