I've been told that my 3rd brake light doesn't light up but the dash computer isn't giving me any warnings for it.
Is the 3rd brake light not included in the warnings for blown bulbs? It told me that my left brake light was out and I've changed that.
Seems odd that none of the bulbs in the 3rd brake light are lighting up - sounds like I need to test that it's getting power!
How does the MPG readout work when running on LPG?
I picked my car up from having the LPG fitted this morning and was surprised to see the MPG readout working. I expected it to not know what to display as it couldn't measure any petrol flow.
Does the LPG system feed back to the computer to allow it to work?
On the way to have the system fitted it was showing just under 21 mpg, on LPG on the way home it was averaging around 19 mpg. Given that the MPG was lower than it was on petrol I assumed this meant it was reading accurately for LPG.
Had a dipped beam bulb blow on the way home this evening so I need a new one.
Halfords and Autobulbsdirect are telling me the dipped beam is a single filament H7 but I was sure it's a two filament H4. I'm sure it does both dipped and main beam with an additional main beam H7.
It's too cold and dark and wet for me to go look at it right now...anyone able to confirm for me?
I've just been in the back of my car changing the seat belt and it required me to take the subwoofer out.
I got a bit confused when taking it out - there's a box on the top of it that has nothing plugged in to it:
There is a smaller multiplug coming out of the join where the top part of the box meets the lower part (you can see where it comes from in the first image, above):
This connects to a loom that runs towards the front of the car somewhere.
The sub works, I can hear it changing the bass as I play with the settings on the radio.
Does this sound right?
Someone has definitely been in here before me (I'm finding this with everything I need to work on so far....) as one of the top mounting nuts is completely missing and the other one wasn't even finger tight. All four screws holding the CD changer cartridge in are missing too.
Now that I'm using the Range Rover as a daily driver I want to replace the radio with something containing bluetooth and music streaming capabilities.
I want to copy what Marty has done and get an Android powered double DIN unit to replace the factory sat nav screen. One without a disc drive so I cut the chassis down to fit the dashboard.
I have the (currently functional) DSP amp system.
To wire this up and make it work I believe I need to set the volume to max before disconnecting the standard head unit, fit an ISO to ISO harness on the back of the new radio, fit 4x attenuators in the ISO to ISO harness and connect this all to the original wiring loom.
Is this correct?
What would I need to make the steering wheel controls work? Just connect it all together and worry about it if they don't work?
Ever since my BECM went in to meltdown last year and needed to be unlocked by Marty my remote locking hasn't worked. Prior to this, the remote locking worked perfectly. Since I got the BECM back I've been unable to enter the EKA code that Marty programmed in for me.
Last night Gilbertd used his Nanocom to enter it for me but the fob still didn't work. He also used the Nanocom to test my door latch and found that the key switch is dead - which explains why I couldn't enter the EKA manually.
With the EKA code entered we looked elsewhere. Another rather fancy handheld gadget determined that the fob was transmitting on the right frequency but the transmission was very weak. The LED on the fob has always flashed when the buttons are pressed.
Today, I've prised off the battery cover and changed the batteries for brand new Panasonic ones. There is still no reaction from the car when the buttons are pressed.
The antenna in the rear window is showing signs of deterioration but it still doesn't work when I put the fob right next to the receiver in the rear wing.
Gilbertd suggested making a replacement antenna from a bit of wire about 8 inches or so long. Is there any more to this than unplugging the actual antenna and jamming the wire in the socket?
If that doesn't work, does any one else have any suggestions? Is it possible to test if the receiver itself works?
My drivers side mirror only adjusts up and down and not side to side.
I bought a new mounting clip expecting it to be that that's snapped but it's not. It's the little white plastic arm that is attached to the motor.
I've tried superglue and no more nails bit neither of them will fix the tow sections back together again.
I've looked on eBay for a used electric mirror but they mostly seem to be unpainted black plastic.
As mine is painted to match the body, is it possible to remove the electric motor/adjustment mechanism and swap it over with one from another mirror?
Is it possible to turn off the passenger side airbag? I'd like to fold my rear seats down to transport some furniture but still be able to put a rear facing baby seat in the front. Can't do that with an active airbag for obvious reasons!
As per the diagram here I need 12x 120 ohm 1W, 4x 330 ohm 1W and 4x 47 ohm 1W resistors.
I'm having trouble sourcing 1W resistors though!
I found a source on eBay but had an awful experience with them. They sent me the wrong items (1/4W) several days late and when I asked for them to send the correct parts I was told I was being too rude and that I had to open an eBay case. They also told me explicitly that "no one from this company will help you". Three weeks later I have my refund from eBay....
Apart from that seller though, I can't find what I need. Maplin don't have them, the girl at the desk said they go from 0.6W to 2W so no luck there.
I've looked at places like Farnell and RS Online but that's a bit of a minefield and the options are endless and somewhat confusing for someone who isn't too familiar with this stuff. I also don't really need to order them by the hundred but I'm not sure these are bulb-buy places only.
Anyone know of a simpler place to find what I need?
Started the car up on Saturday at stupid o'clock in the morning and found my radio no longer works.
I get a loud click/pop through the speakers that repeats every fee seconds. I clicked through the menu for bass, treble etc and found that the option for the DSP equaliser is no longer showing up - has my DSP amp finally gocen up the ghost?
It worked fine the day before and the only difference on Saturday morning is that it was bloody cold, not sure if that's relevant though.
It couldn't have picked a better time to crap out on me. Had a 3 hour drive with a baby that will only sleep in the car if there's music playing...
Might be a daft question but are the two bits circled here the pin number and the wire colour? IE: Pin 3 is a black wire with a white stripe going to both the tweeter and the mid speaker?
Is it worth us having a thread to share any good deals we find for things Range Rover related? Tools, parts, mods etc.
I don't have any to share yet (at work with very restricted internet access) has anyone else found anything useful?
Not sure how to describe it. Actual idle is fine but if I blip the throttle the revs drop momentarily before picking back up. As this happens the engine goes completely quiet, like it shut off. Then it picks up and feels a little rough until around 2k rpm.
Doesn't happen at all on petrol and seems fine on LPG once the engine is warmed up. I'm not 100% sure but I think it only does it in neutral or park. I've not noticed any issues pulling away.
Any ideas on what it could be?
Plugged in my new (to me) Nanocom yesterday and went through all the screens.
LOTS of engine codes, mostly inactive and relating to misfires - which I knew about as the car nearly caught fire a few weeks ago. It was worse than I thought at the time though!
P0134 - Lambda Bank 1 Signal Missing (x2)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent, causes MIL lamp (x132)
NA - Signal Missing. Persistent, causes MIL Lamp (x129)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent (x1)
The first one seems straight forward - no signal from the lamda sensor. Loose connection, dead sensor etc.
Not sure where to start with the NA ones though. I have no MIL lamp on despite the fault descriptions.
I'm not really concerned with the following codes as they're not present and I knew it was misfiring before. It's interesting to see how bad it actually was. If I'd had the Nanocom at the time I wouldn't have left it to run as long as I did. It honestly only sounded and felt like a minor misfire in one cylinder! It does show me what the issue was though. Misfires on 4 cylinders - all 4 on the same coil. I must have had a loose ignition coil plug that was fixed by my random wiggling of all the connectors I could reach.
P1000 - Lambda Bank 2 Signal missing (x170)
P1300 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Multiple cylinders (x2)
P1301 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 1 (x1)
P0304 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 4 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 6 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 7 (x2)
P1319 - Misfire with low fuel (x2)
P0175 - Additive Adaptive Mixture Correction TRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x7)
P0175 - Mixture Adaption Factor FRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x14)
Cylinder 5 is showing a value of 1.89 for roughness. The other cylinders are all at 0.00. Not sure what this means. What units is this measured in? I think this was the cylinder that I found a small amount burnt black crud in. Slight oil leak affecting combustion that the ECU is noticing?
One of my lambda sensors isn't behaving the same as the other one. Bank A is showing as completely stable at 0.28V with a stable output value of 0.99. Bank B is bouncing around rapidly with a voltage between 0.02 and 0.77. Bank B output value is bouncing between 0.95 and 1.05. At a guess, the once that's not changing is the once that's wrong? That would tie in with the active/present fault saying that the signal from bank 1 lambda is missing.
Sitting at idle it shows RPM at 760 with a target engine speed of 3120 - does this mean it's trying to achieve 3120rpm for some reason?
Sitting at idle it shows and engine load of 14%, internal and air temps of 45C, throttle open 0% and closed throttle 14.81V - do these values look ok or would they explain my intermittent high idle issue?
On the rough road screen the voltage reading is swapping between 0 and 12 about once every second, rough running is "ON" and rough road status is "ACTIVE". The compensation value is 0.01.
Then I'm on to blend motor issues (which I knew about before hand but have been living with). Left hand blend and distribution motors are short circuited to positive. Need to pull those and check the connections for corrosion and test the motors.
Next up is two things that I didn't know about. I found a screen that let me test the cruise control buttons. Ever since I've had the car the resume function of the cruise control hasn't worked. I assumed the switch was dead and didn't worry about it. Nanocom shows that the button DOES work. It shows pressed when I press it. Now I need to work out why it doesn't actually resume my CC.
Last up is a suspension height sensor out of range - although I have no suspension faults and it goes up and down perfectly.
Not Range Rover related, we're looking to sell some items on eBay but they contain small gas canisters (along the lines of a Sodastream machine).
We're struggling to find a courier that doesn't exclude such things as dangerous items but it must be possible because the same items can be delivered to us from various online places.
Anyone know of a courier that will ship things like this?
My dad's car went for an MOT on Saturday. It was done at Kwik Fit and it's an 08 plate Mazda 5 1.8 petrol.
Prior to the MOT he had new front discs and pads as well as ARB drop links.
With the new parts fitted he drove off to the MOT and everything was fine.
The car went through the MOT and everything was fine.
Soon after leaving the MOT his car started making all sorts of noises.
Front left wheel clicks when turning.
There's a bang/knock somewhere central when changing gear or letting off the power but staying in gear.
There's a kind of scratchy/rubbing/grindy noise somewhere in the front left.
Lastly, there's a creaking/squeaking noise somewhere high up on the front right when turning.
As mentioned, the car was fine before the MOT and the MOT didn't flag up anything suggesting these problems would be imminent.
My thoughts are CV joint for the clicking, gearbox mount for the banging, driveshaft support bearing (if it has one) for scratchy/rubbing noise and top mount for the creaking.
The problem is, how suddenly this all came on after leaving the MOT and how nothing was found by the tester. All of the noises are very loud and noticeable.
I don't want to accuse Kwik Fit of anything but is there anything they could have done to sabotage this kind of stuff to make work for themselves? My dad said the whole place was dead, nothing going on and several techs standing around smoking and chatting.
Or, is it likely that the tester was really, really bad at his job of finding this stuff and the MOT itself is suspect?
As expected, a comment thread of full people touting unavoidable doom and gloom from the second you turn the key.
Specifically, an RP SMA female to RP SMA female.
I can lots of connectors with RP SMA female on one end, but not at both ends. I know it exists as I have one in my hand but one of our ham-fisted technicians has managed to snap it.
It's for connecting what looks like a WiFi antenna to one of our workshop lifts. I went in to Maplin and spoke to one of the guys there who looked at it and declared it "unusual" and he had nothing in stock.
I can't find anything on the RS Components website but they don't have one. I can't even find an image of one on Google Images.
It looks like this:
The actual coverings for the seats, not the flimsy things you can get to protect the seats.
Are they all the same in terms of shape and dimensions for leather/cloth and manual/electric?
Besides the cars that got the extra fancy leather, I know they at least got a slightly different shape rear bench.