I still haven't put this fan back together...
Instead - I've taken a very angry sounding Hydrovane compressor to bits too, so that, the fan, and a load of ECU wiring is spread across the bench... I should really finish one thing at a time.
Thanks again Smiler for letting me photographing every little detail of your P38's engine bay - has been invaluable already.
It's going to be an arse to drive it out of here... but I have snacks
Out of interest, what resin printer have you gone for?
Very interested in the results - we have a filament printer (started life as a Tronxy XY2 but it has been modified a fair bit since), but resin printers do look interesting.
Pffft, I've no idea what I'm doing. Throw engine in make broom noise hopefully?
When the engine comes out, one of the first things to change will be the gearbox cooler. I've got a good condition setup from a diesel including the fan fitted as per the later models. Came complete with both temperature switches - so all I need to do is make up a loom with a relay for it to work automatically. Actual diesel P38s used the relay spot used for the ignition coils on a petrol, but I don't want to faff around with that too much - so it will be a standalone setup.
While the cooler and pipework are fairly recent, the fan is 20 years old, and despite being a Spal - had seen better days. Very noisy front bearing. Sadly they're not cheap, so I figured I had little to lose trying to crack it open and replace the bearing.
Manky fan:
Plastics into the ultrasonic cleaner. Actually the motor went for a swim too before starting to hack at it.
Reveal your secrets... will have to come up with something to reseal the area I attacked with a dremel, but I have an idea. The front bearing is a sealed 608 - just need to obtain one of those.
Smooth...
Sorry :(
I mean... How is it so hard to make an exhaust that fits properly?
That actually looks like it will flow fairly well too! The joints on the cheap cat section I bought all look quite restrictive...
Not that it matters so much now - I'll be on the lookout for a diesel cat section soon hopefully.
The part ordering has begun... it is quite a list
Seeing as it has been a mere 4 years, spose I better respond - and just as an FYI:
The fans will only run at slow speed if either the A/C is on AND the single pressure switch has been tripped (I think this is 15 bar or so) requiring additional condenser cooling OR the engine ECU has determined the engine is melting, and wishes for a smidge of cooling assist (which will do shit all pushing through the condenser, auto and engine oil coolers and THEN the engine rad on low speed anyway).
It is perfectly normal to never see these fans running if your viscous fan is operating correctly - even spinning freely it pulls enough air over the whole cooling pack to keep the pressure in the AC high side low enough to not trip the single pressure switch. On an extremely hot day with a hot interior, you might get it to trip and bring them on at low speed for a while. But they're so quiet running in series that you probably won't notice.
In my case, my viscous fan went in the bin in favour of my custom setup with a Volvo two speed beast of a fan and a custom shroud. So I have bypassed the single pressure switch so the two front fans always run in low speed while my AC is switched on, and with another relay and a small wiring adjustment, they kick up to high speed when the compressor clutch pulls in. This was to aid my AC on hot days with a cold engine, as I have no constant draw of air over the condenser while stationary with no viscous fan. As a result on really hot days the high side of my AC was tripping the high (but not quite the 'OH S### she's gunna blow!' safety cut out thankfully) pressure switch and bringing them on at high speed - which you will really notice.
I digress - none of this is required if you have a working viscous fan - so I'm not going to post up what I've done (I'd also have to check the specifics..) as doing it to a car without a beast of an electric fan should not be needed unless you're trying to hide a cooling problem. I'm not hiding any problems - I just dislike viscous fans. Some may see this as more complicated, but I'm happy with it and even at 35c my AC has been good, and the Volvo fan has never had to come on at high speed.
I don't think there is a problem with Jitsi either to be honest.
At work I have just as many issues supporting people using every other platform - zoom, webex, bloody teams, etc.
We could do with an open bar? room left going perhaps with a password not in plain sight for a couple of us to dive into to check things work perhaps?
There is a Jitsi android app too.
"Quirks and peculiarities of the P38 design and engineering"
That's about the most polite way I've ever heard of it being put! :)
Oh where to start... I think LR had 'warranty period' on the brains as the determining factor for the level of 'that'll do!' used in most decisions.
Hmm - I was using Chrome and it worked okay, though I think the wifi in my shed kept dropping as it would freeze now and then (but this is an issue unrelated to jitsu)
What is your internet connection like?
If the session is still working I don't mind trying it again this evening if you want.
As above!
My laptop decided it had enough for the night when I dropped off - so off to bed it was!
It will only do it under load - so in drive (or reverse), foot hard on the brakes to stop it moving - load up the gearbox etc and it will start to do it. I mean - it COULD be something in the gearbox or flex plate... but changing the MAF had an immediate stop on it that lasted a week or so. Then it started coming back, and is now back to the same state as before.
There is a lot of carbon build up on one of the oddly high compression pistons, but not on the surface of the other one... so that seems a bit inconclusive.
Sorry... I have been distracted pissing around with the V8 and it still isn't cooperating. What should have just prolonged its life a bit longer hasn't really worked out, so this might be moving back up the list to just dump the boat anchor.
That's neat on the PIC controller. Ultimately, long term I'd still like to go the CAN-CAN route long term, what I really need to get some more data on that is an E39 diesel auto to see what is going on. Typically nobody I know owns one, and the E60 spits out a different set of data.
Would you be open to sharing any of your work on the PIC controller/converter? It would be great to be able to look at making something like that work with the non-CAN gearbox controller to start with and get things moving. Hardware wise, we can likely build - PIC code on the other hand isn't something we've dabbled with much.
Cruise control is definitely on the list of things to make work once I the engine is in and running, so I'll be posting up the solution to that once we've figured it out. I know we were having some weird results on diagnostics when feeding the canbus speed back in, but it seems like it just needed some tweaking to get it right.
It is the same squeak yeah - it was there immediately after doing the cam etc so I know it isn't that - but those lifters were shagged, the surface was breaking up on them, I could use some of them as bowls :)
The flex plate is 18 months old or so after it did break up, but I have had a look through the inspection port underneath and I can't see any cracks to the outside edge like last time. But without pulling the engine, that's all you can see on a Thor.
Will see on the weekend if any revelations crop up.
Well... that was short lived.
Noise is back. Resetting adaptives does not make a difference. Still got the same mixture faults, and the idle trim is higher than ideal.
I have a leak down tester that should arrive tomorrow to see if anything untoward is happening internally. Going to try a significantly newer MAF on the weekend than either of mine, but if that reveals nothing or makes no difference, it may be curtains for this one. I can't keep pissing around with it, and it is now really starting to test me.
Whether I move on to another P38, or spend the money I don't have on the compushift and shove the M57 in - I don't yet know. Or I break it and give P38s a rest for a while - I am undecided.
I'm glad I'm not the only one.
I'll keep that eBay one in mind - considering it took Island4x4 3 weeks to get this junk to me, I wish I'd just gotten one on eBay in the first place.
Does anyone make a twin exhaust setup for a P38 that actually fits, that isn't genuine LR prices?
Just 'fitted' an allmakes rear section and its absolute crap. Admittedly, not quite as bad as the eBay stainless special. But the welder still had to come out to completely rearrange one hanger, and the backbox on the opposite side is now resting nicely against the tie down loop.
For no particular reason, I've wanted some plug-in jump leads to live with my P38, so I've finally gotten around to sorting some.
I didn't want the vehicle socket to have any flex or dodgy bumper mounting going on... so I took the crush can off, and welded up my own bracket to it. Can confirm - does not flex. The socket is also wired through an 800amp rated solenoid, which is switched via my custom ash tray panel. So it is normally off - preventing any possible shorting in a front end collision, or some delightful oxygen thieve poking things in it.
The vehicle side socket is a black SB175 - these will mate with any other colour SB175, which is handy. The stickout is a bit more than I'd have liked, but it was hard to gauge where it would sit. I could easily re-make the bracket to recess it a bit if I decide to in the future. Once the nudge bar is on, it might actually be easier to use as it is.