If only! Mine appear from the back and the gaps at the front between the throttle body and bananas.
As it all works nicely as is, I'm not that bothered about changing it. Hopefully won't have to pull it off for any reason again any time soon.
I do need to get some of that 8mm silicone hose to replace the line between the inlet manifold and header tank, bypassing the throttle body heater plate. The bit of pipe between the manifold and heater plate looks like its on the verge of going pop, and the heater plate itself is or has been weeping a bit... Should be able to do that by unbolting the A/C compressor and lifting it to the side I think to get to the hose barb.
I visited California, Arizona and Nevada errr 9 years ago, and loved the place. If I had the money I'd do it again no questions asked. A certain P38-shaped money pit means that's not on the cards for a loooong time.
Besides, Trump will probably f*ck the whole place up in 5 minutes anyway if enough of them are delusional enough to vote for him.
Banning by IP address is such an empty threat its comical.
I was tempted to reply to his post with some fairly legitimate questions, but he'll probably just ban me for having the audacity of questioning the almighty one.
You could try emailing cmsupport@verticalscope.com - depends if VerticalScope are as bigger tossers as he is. I really dislike the whole conglomerate ownership deal.
What is he talking about? What a complete and utter moron.
How very dare you send him an email!
Since when is sending PMs 'using contact information'... sounds like a load of bull to me.
So the owners are sat reading through individual PMs on their various forums and just happen to come across Gilbert inviting precious members away? Yeah... I don't see it.
One may presume if he's sad enough to be reading through your PMs, he's probably sat reading this.
I've had this noise when the engine is warmed up and at idle since owning it, and it hasn't gotten any worse in the 5-6k miles I've done, but it is pretty irritating with the windows down. I haven't held back with the loud pedal either, so I would have thought if it were a bearing, by now it would have said sod it and er ceased being a bearing...
Thumped the cats - they don't seem to make a noise. From the top side with the bonnet up you can't really hear it - but you can from underneath and the sides. Soon as the revs get over 1000-1200 its gone. I don't get any knocking under load or any other unwelcome nasty sounds.
Soon as I noticed the noise back shortly after getting it, I had the sump off and gave things a wiggle - no up/down movement in any big ends, a tiny bit of lateral play.
The tinnier bit of the sound makes me think its something relatively lightweight clattering somewhere, but I've yet to work it out. Sounds about the same from both sides.
I think I'm going to have to order one soon... just finished changing my rocker cover gaskets and couldn't help nudging the heater pipes a couple of times while trying to clean the rocker cover and gasket surface (no way in hell that cover was coming out of the bay with that much LPG in the way). Had a couple of drops of coolant on the carpet... it has stopped so hopefully it will hold on for now.
In other news... Bosch/Thor with LPG rocker cover gasket jobs... what an arse. Still, degreased the sides of the engine once it was back together and its all sparkly again, hopefully it stays that way and I stop losing oil!
The single pressure switch doesn't change the speed - it only turns them on/off depending on A/C pressure. It is the dual pressure switch that determines speed. It will only switch the fans to run at the high speed setting if the pressure gets really high. With a properly working viscous fan, that should never really happen. The A/C fans themselves generally won't come on at all normally. The viscous fan does pretty much all the work cooling both engine and keeping the A/C pressures reasonable.
Even with the A/C on and on a hot day, if the engine is overheating, something is wrong somewhere. The A/C will negatively impact the engine cooling system because you're drawing hot air from the condenser over the radiator, but even so it should be able to manage just fine.
When you start the car from cold with the air conditioning on, do the fans come on immediately?
I got a mono pre-amp from Maplin (one of the kits), and it had the same pop problem. In my case, it was definitely the amp causing the issue - it would do it with no source connected. Gave up on that idea and went with the aftermarket amp/sub route after ruining my dual driver factory sub with the vacuum cleaner :)
High/low speed is indeed done by the dual pressure switch. The single pressure switch just turns the fans on/off (regardless of speed chosen). My single pressure switch is just bridged so whenever my A/C is on, the fans run. This isn't needed, nor under most circumstances will they ever actually come on, but I was troubleshooting another issue and have just left it that way. A bit of extra cooling can never hurt a V8...
By default they run at the low speed, where the fans are electrically connected in series through a pair of green 5 pin relays in the fusebox. I forget which numbers they are. They should only run on high speed (ie in parallel) if the pressure in the A/C gets silly high. I think in the case of an engine overheat, by the time the ECU requests they come on (at low speed too, I believe) its too late for the engine anyway...
When you say they are turning slowly, how slowly? Slow enough you can see the blades? If the relays are getting very hot and the fans are turning very slowly, it sounds like a poor connection inside one of the relays.
Sorry I thought I'd replied!
Thanks for the code :) I tried to find the ones I was after on GSF, but it seems unless you specify a vehicle, you can't just search for items. Unless I missed something obvious.
In the end I ordered Bosch AR19U and AR22U off eBay, for just under 20 quid. 19" still has a bit of overhang, and you can see the blade isn't quite straight when its parked. I think the wiper arm itself is too long really, but oh well. At least they wipe well, and look a bit nicer than the standard type.
I think one day I'll have to grease the linkage, as that's making the most noise now. One day = never / when it breaks.
Doh, of course it'll never drop out :) Still, sounds sorted anyway!
I must admit, despite my thread about my concerns with my A/C, it seems perfectly capable in the hotter weather on auto. Had a 2 hour drive home yesterday (should be 45 minutes, thank you bloody caravan) through all sorts of odd places, and never once thought about it being too warm - despite it being 30 odd out. Still won't quite cryogenically freeze you like an E39, but then my E39 has a light grey interior and is a smaller interior than my all black greenhouse P38.
The three amigos may well have come up - I've seen them briefly before on sharp braking. My fault... I've known the accumulator has been weak since I got the car, but lately it has certainly been getting worse. Didn't notice them this time but I was slightly busy watching the rapidly approaching hedge while my foot was somewhere in the shag pile while the ABS went mad doing somewhere in the region of feck all... :)
Anyway... new accumulator should turn up tomorrow as it happens... back to the tablets!
Google maps has nearly just lead to my phone being at the bottom of a river in the forest.
Wanted to get home avoiding my usual route as I knew a caravan had done a number and closed the whole dual carriageway. So planned a route on the computer, then did the same thing on Google Maps on my phone by entering additional stops to get the route to go where I wanted. All went well until the second additional stop... then it started taking me BACK to work. Had no way of working out what the hell it thought it was doing, so had to clear the route and do the whole thing in stages.
The fact you can't plan a proper route is a massive let down in my opinion, nor can you change one of the three route options you get to avoid a certain road etc. All things my prehistoric TomTom can do... and I don't think the traffic is all that great either. Going to put said TomTom back in the car I think.
2 hours to get home, and my definitely failing brake accumulator nearly left me in a hedge...
You can appease the HEVAC with a ballast resistor - that's what the upgrade kit came with, to fool it into thinking the load of the clutch was still present. I'm not sure what rating it was, something hefty to just dump power into.
You could as a bodge actually just wire the feed from the HEVAC into both the clutch and your relay coil, if you can't find a suitable resistor. The load will keep it happy, and the switched feed through the relay will actually do the work of initially pulling the clutch in. Bit nasty... but hey.
Ouch
My centre silencer was like swiss cheese, but it was I'm sure the original. I lopped it out and replaced it with a bit of 'polylock' flexible pipe, as both flange ends are looking pretty horrendous, and I didn't have the cash to replace the whole exhaust at the time. It sounds very nice now as a result :) Next year I will need a full exhaust though, but I'll be keeping a straight pipe where the centre silencer should be.
That alternator... nice.
Oh. Between early and later P38s the steering wheel controls did change - the resistor values are different for wheels that came in Clarion and Alpine equipped vehicles. Whether the wiring is already there on a car that came without steering wheel controls, I don't know.
I have a PAC SWI-RC too - very good, if not sadly expensive, bit of kit!
I use it with a Pioneer MVH-X560BT. Inexpensive head unit (the SWI-RC can cost more!), but with bluetooth, rear USB and line in, no CD deck, and the colour can be set to whatever you like. Not too bling looking which I like.