I had my fully dressed replacement engine for my old car in the back of it :) That came sat on an old tyre on top of a pallet too... mind you, I did have it lifted straight in by a forklift at work where I had it delivered. Lifted it out with an engine crane at the other end after detaching it from the pallet.
It's the getting it in/out of the car that is the biggest problem I think. Not sure you'd fit that in along with an engine. Could always lend a hand - take engine in one, crane in another.
The Kwikfit near me has one.
Don't judge me. They managed to do the front alignment where a tyre place wouldn't touch it... steering boxes are complicated, apparently.
If you're talking GEMS, and have an early ECU (I forget the part number), then resetting does indeed go to -160... I believe it should work up to around zero, but I'm not 100% on that as mine never ran right with that ECU or one of the newer part numbers (which reset to zero).
Must be something causing it to get hot enough to make the heat shield glow - plugged nanocom in to see what that side is doing?
Yep. Still, that heated seat should now work...
It could be rain, though I thought that would drop straight out the bottom of the blower (had it before on the drivers side). The wet patch definitely starts at the transmission tunnel side of the footwell. I'll have to pull it apart yet again sometime. Might just leave it until I change the heater box and matrix maybe...
This is getting irritating now. Just put the passenger seat back in, moved the mat and noticed its wet underneath yet again.
I haven't taken the panel under the glovebox off but with that in place, I can't see any evidence of where it has come from. Presumably its the air conditioning again...
Indeed, but it might have explained the trims being way out on LPG.
Fife's a bit far to lend a hand I'm afraid... wrong end of the Island :)
On my first P38 which was a GEMS, I found they had put the LPG inlets for the front and rear cylinders backwards, as they placed them far too high up on the inlet manifold before where the tracts swap over underneath. So both the front two and rear two cylinders had the injectors reversed. It ran horribly until rewiring them to get them injecting gas into the right inlet tract at the right time.
Whereabouts are you?
Ha!
I removed my battery backed sounder to replace it with a normal non-battery version for that reason. The nicad batteries are 18 years old now too, so I don't see them lasting much longer anyway! When they go, the sounder stops working completely.
Does it mist on the inside or out? I have a bit of air leakage to the demister vents - if the A/C is on and its quite humid outside, when stationary the glass actually cools to the point I have condensation on the outside. At first I thought it was actually misting up on the inside and thought the A/C had given up.
LPG installer?
Good work with the doors - presumably this means now if someone breaks in through either front door, the alarm will actually go off now :)
I need to replace my heater core and sort out the heater box too before winter - so if I get around to it first, if you want it Richard you're welcome to the old core!
I found that on screens that have updating information, you have to press and hold the back button for instance, as it only seemed to accept input between refreshes of the data.
Haven't updated mine since I got it - I think I'll give this a go though.
Run cap didn't make a difference, so I guess the motor is buggered. The replacement cap also didn't seem to register on my naff multimeter, so the original may be fine anyway.
Annoying...
Bit off topic but there seems to be a vast array of random knowledge here so figured I'd see if any of you have any ideas on this!
I have a 3/4hp (as in, 0.75) hermetic refrigeration compressor that started tripping a breaker intermittently on startup. Now it trips every time.
It has a start and a run capacitor. I've tried another start capacitor that I robbed from another unit (same rating), no change. The potential relay contacts are closed, so the start cap is in circuit at startup. I then noticed the run cap appears to have gone open circuit, but I'm not sure if that is the cause or a symptom - I have a replacement that is meant to arrive today. I'm not convinced its going to solve it though - from what I gather, it should attempt to run if not particularly well without it. Or sit and hum until the overload protection cuts it off.
The breaker to the circuit is a B type 32amp, suggesting its pulling silly amps for some reason or has gone dead short. Checking the windings, I'm getting 3.3 ohms on the run, and 9.5 on the start. Specs call for 3.3 on run and 12 on start, so start seems a bit low but isn't a dead short. Prior to it tripping constantly, when it would run, it never made any odd noises either while running or on startup, so I don't think its seized up. It isn't short to earth either. Checked the wiring throughout the rest of the unit and its fine - disconnecting the feed to the compressor results in the breaker not tripping when its contactor pulls in, so I'm sure its at fault.
Any ideas?
Mmm that was when I originally replaced my hard lines from the modulator to the rear, I went straight to the lower bracket and into the long flexis, losing the short hard lines and flexis.
But then figured as well as ease of dropping the body onto the frame during production, the body is on rubber mounts to let it move slightly... so I bought new short flexis and redid it as it originally was just to be on the safe side.
That looks like the one that goes on the body side, yeah. I can't remember what the frame bracket looks like though. If you can't find it, let me know and when I'm home I'll take some pictures of how mine looks.
Could always use some big chunky cable ties to hold the bracket in place on the axle, even if just temporarily. Not sure I'd want to drive around with that flapping about risking the solid lines fracturing.
Unless they came with them from the start, you'll need to fabricate some brackets on either side for the brake lines and short jump hoses to convert to the later spec. I suspect it would be easier to fabricate a mounting for your current setup really.
It was a bit like that at a recent Beaulieu auto jumble. There was a Land Rover field, but no P38s to be seen in it.
If you had one kicking about, a random car battery would probably be the easiest solution, along with a trickle charger as Gilbert said.
Or a portable jump starter - handy for starting cars with dead batteries, and as a 12v supply. Just keep it charged properly.