Pump arrived, expect the rest tomorrow.
Only problem is the 40cm of snow we received from somewhere on tuesday...
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Tanks
Ended up sticking with the original setup. Mostly just because I don't want to have anything that I don't trust (like some fittings made by myself) hidden somewhere like behind the tank. If (when) the other fuel lines start to leak, I might as well use copper pipes, as they are not as out of reach.
Hopefully the parts will arrive before the weekend, if the weather will not be too bad I will try to do it then. And after that continue to fix the sill (and floor), both suffering from the same disease as the fuel pipes (the metal parts of them), oxidation.
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ps. edit to add that one reason that making the lines myself isn't as tempting is price. There are only two ships here that I trust to sell proper quality hoses. And other two that I think have the pipes. In both cases expensive here. So the difference in cost is less than in most other places.
Thanks
It's actually the hose that is leaking, so that's not an option.
Seems it's either the original way or cut both pipes and use copper (cunifer?) and hoses with non threaded filter.
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Thanks
Did you use the original type filter (threads) or the older ones?
Saw in one thread on the other side something about a "kit" to connect to the threaded type filter, but haven't found anything like that now.
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Hello all
The fuel lines in my P38 have decided to develop into sprinklers, so it seems I have to something about it, since I am eccentric enough to want the petrol to actually reach the engine.
There is petrol leaking both from the line between tank and filter, and somewhere over the tank.
So the plan is to drop the tank, replace pump (don't intend to make a habit out of dropping the tank) and lines.
The shopping list seems to be:
STC4344 Fuel pump
NTC5859 Fuel Pump Seal
NTC5858 Fuel Pump Locking Ring
WJP106150 Fuel Feed Pipe - Pump To Filter
WJP106160 Fuel Pipe - To Pump
ESR4065 Fuel Filter
Just wanted to check with the knowledge base here if I am missing something?
Or any good advice?
I've dropped a tank once before, on one of by Buicks, so I think I have some idea of what I am about to do, but never on a Rangie.
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Have this also on mine, replaced the buckle with the one from my old 2.5 dt which did not have this problem (as far as I can remember), but it still happens.
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Unfortunately, like some other brands that used to be quality, Moog is no longer what it used to be. At least that's my experience.
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The L320 started as "baby Range Rover" but grew rather quickly in the designers/marketers hand and ended up being nearly as big.
Let's not discuss 'updated' in detail... ;-)
Range Rover of any version should have analog clock, at the very least something that looks like an analog clock. Just my opinion.
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Don't forget Gilbert :-D
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Btw I just noticed that I registered on the other side twenty years ago. Am I getting old?
Have we lost one admin on the other side?
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Small resistor on either side?
Some years ( or decades) ago a member on the other side installed some potentiometers to compensate for side tilt.
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Actually we have one case recently reported on the other side from up here. Not a very hot climate if you ask me...
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Aragorn wrote:
One big thing that people seem to often forget for the real world, is that 4x4 might well get you moving in situations where a 2wd car doesnt if they're both on summer tyres, but the 4x4 system doesnt help you steer or stop at all.
Exactly what I was thinking at that time. If you can't brake or steer properly, then don't try to drive. If you can, then 4x4 will help moving, but probably not necessary.
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That's really great.
Of course prototype to production takes time even when you can work on it full time, but he will at least have one customer when ready.
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It's actually brilliant, change the car to match the key...
It looks like there aren't enough P38's still running, for someone to make programmable fobs.
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Unless if it has been removed then it cannot be malfunctioning, and 5.3.5 does not apply.
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Yes.
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;-)
RedP38 wrote:
I only went to get a morning cup of tea and there's a reply already.
If Gilbert/Richard isn't doing something unimportant like going to France or getting married, (or something important like fixing others P38s) he monitors both sides pretty well to answer questions (and delete spam).
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The second tool in Gilberts post is now on the wish list.
I have something similar to the other one (but with 1/2" hex instead of the handle so it is ok on steel pipes). But not always the easiest one when working under the car.
4.75 mm (instead of just 3/16) has always sounded a bit like selling 40.64 x 20.32 cm wheels...
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