Hello,
Adjusted throttle cable (the two nuts are 12 mm) and cruise control cable gap (0.5 - 1.5 mm using knurled knob per RAVE) and cruise is much improved. Perhaps with some further tinkering I can say, Works a treat!
Thanks for the help.

Hello All,
Thanks for the input. 4.6 Petro P38A HSE
Will review RAVE and see about adjusting the cables. Superbowl on tonight, then the workweek, so may be a few days before I can get to it.
Thanks again,
Vancer

Hello,
Press Cruise Set button and it delays setting and sets at a lower speed. Hose lines are good. Have had the rig c. 3 years and it has always been this way.
Is there a calibration that can be made? Have had 11 BMWs over the years and they always set at exact speed. I may be wrong but there seems to be a BMW influence in my 02 Range Rover P38 HSE, at least the information stalk (mpg, etc.) seems similar.
Thanks
Vancer

Thanks for the explanation, Colin. Makes sense. Another week with no error messages. Rig is in really good shape.
Nanocom is financially prohibitive at present.

Thanks for the replies.
No, I've had the rig 2 years and have never jumped it. It sits during the week and I think the battery does not always charge back up all the way (do not suspect any real electrical problems). Was just curious that it would say Airbag Fault when there really is not an Airbag Fault.

It actually did not do that this last week. It's starting to get cooler here in Memphis.
Vancer

Hello All,
I had an Airbag Fault message on the Instrument Cluster Display (can't think of the conventional nomenclature at present) and went about unplugging and cleaning and re-plugging sensors. Turned out it was the crash sensor under the battery tray of my 02 RR P38 4.6 HSE LHD. With a contact cleaning, the message went away.

I don't drive the RR except on Friday-Sunday. I started getting the Airbag Fault message again. I'm thinking that if your battery is low (like from sitting), it will cause a trigger for the last fault you actually had, even though it is not really a current fault. It is just a low battery. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Vancer

Good information here. I would also check that the HT leads are completely seated in the coil packs on the back of the engine. My experience is the screws to the packs themselves may have backed out causing the lead to wiggle out, which in turn causes an intermittent miss.

Hello All,
Replaced the thermostat, tensioner, 2 idler pulleys (70 and 80 mm), water pump, radiator, serpentine belt, and 2 hoses. Flushed heater matrix. Added Pentosin NF Antifreeze (Blue liquid sold by Autozone--don't know if you have them in the UK) which is supposed to be an OE equivalent for the Rangie. It is an O.A.T. or Hybrid O.A.T. Rig is running well at 137K miles. Have driven 36 miles city and Interstate Hwy. Temp needle stays just to the left of center.
No more stain on the driveway.
Thanks for the info and suggestions.

Hello All,
Just looking from the top and not dismantled, the idler pulleys appeared to be two different sizes. Thanks Orangebean (70 v. 80 mm).

Ordered a thermostat and plan to change it at the same time. Forgot to state that with the initial post. Have had the Rangie for a little more than 2 years. I suspected an antifreeze leak somewhere; saw some small white spots across the top of the radiator. Replaced the large upper hose that also feeds to the thermostat about 6 mos ago, thinking that was the leak. Less white specs but just couldn't pinpoint it until now. Hyperbolic might have been a better descriptor of shape of crack (v. elliptical). Magnets and spanners just go together.

I think there should be magnetic gas caps, magnetic straight rakes (particularly useful in finding roofing nails by your house)...big on magnets. Thanks again,

Hello All,
'02 RR P38A 4.6L HSE (LHD) with 135K miles. Radiator's large upper plastic pipe connector separated underneath (making an elliptical shaped break) where hose connects. Decided to replace radiator, and the water pump, serpentine belt, idler tensioner and the 2 idler pulleys as well. Looking at the idler pulleys, the one under the steering pump looks larger to me than the one under the tensioner on the opposite side.

Autozone has just the idler pulley (not through bolt) for $17 + shipping. Are the idler pulleys the same size and are the through bolt diameters a match as well? Looked in Rave and did not find anything to say one way or another. If they are not the same, could you recommend a good supplier? Searched this forum and saw others had replaced these items but no details about sizes. A full weekend ahead...
Thanks,
Vancer

My sympathies, Orangebean. Been there, done that. Must pay homage to the long Posidriv # 2 (screwdriver)!

Hello again,
I do not tolerate Fault Codes well. The emissions stuff, I guess, you have to get used to having. Since the Oil Crisis of the 1970's, can't imagine a vehicle without it. Back then, I had a 1969 Buick Skylark convertible that got 12 mpg on the highway. 2002 RR gets about 14.6 mpg combined city/highway. Hoping my recent change of plugs and wires will improve on that. Drove the rig about 25 miles today and it did well with the swapped out Air Hose.

Richard, you have had rigs from America shipped to the United Kingdom?

Hello,
I had seen that eBay listing, but it is used. The breaker yard 2000 RR pipe is in as good a nick.

SOLVED: The elbow fitting will rotate! Once past the initial resistance, it turns--without brute force. The 2000's was off 90°. It's on my 02 rig now, oriented correctly, and works a treat. Thanks again for the input.

Hello,
It's the black elbowed plastic "flexible" hose from the SAI Air Pump to Cross Tube (WAH100180). The elbow snaps on the Air Pump with a compression ring release.
Started rig after replacing sparks and HT leads. Ran smoothly except it was louder than it should be. My make-shift heater hose coupling to the plastic hose had come apart. I was stunned at how much air was coming out. This is while the car was running after startup. I will refit it with jubilee clamps unless I can bend the 2000 RR's.

I had thought about inserting a coathanger in it while I heated it up. Another hose is probably a better idea, No10Chris.

JB Weld is a good idea Orangebean. Used that on a cracked valve cover on my 08 BMW 528i and it has held up.

My 02 RR has not had all the electrical gremlins I've read about, Richard. Whoever scavenged (same person who tore off the door?) the 2000 RR in the breaker yard unbolted the Air Pump and moved it to the back corner of the engine bay with both hose ends still attached (the pump end and the cross tube end). That may have caused it to be misshapen. The configuration of the 2000 rig and mine are the same.

Could it be the elbow end swivels? It seems tight, like it is meant to be stationary. I haven't tried to turn it for fear of breaking it. I may get braver over time. A new one, possibly more pliant, can be had for c. $120-179. This seems like a lot of dinero. My wife would say they are "proud" of them.
Pretty day in Memphis. May take some chances today. Thanks for all of the responses.
Cheers!

Hello All,
Replaced Spark Plugs & HT Leads in my RR and broke the plastic secondary air hose. Have re-coupled it together with heater hose section and electrical tape. That works for now but want it fixed.

Found an intact plastic secondary air hose on a 2000 RR in a breaker yard (the same RR as in another post where the doors were locked--now someone has removed the driver's door completely).

Problem is, the 2000 RR's hose, when connected to the air pump, would then stick almost straight up instead of angling towards the back of the engine to connect to the metal piping. I've thought about heating it up with a hair dryer to re-shape. It would break if forced the way it is. Any thoughts?
Thanks,

Hello All,
Yes, I am in the States and an American. Memphis, Tennessee is home.

This particular breaker yard does not assist in any way and does not allow cutting tools. The door locks seem to be frozen halfway between locked and unlocked and will not budge.

I received the Fuse Box from Miami British today (4 days early). I put it in and it works a treat. No more Bookmark warning so it must have been the RL7 plug-in. Soldering connection underneath causing Relay to overheat?

Hello All,
Thanks for all the suggestions. I can't bring myself to deliberately damage the rig, even though I know in 3 months or so it'll be crushed. Going through sunroof would require tearing it up.
Once I climbed inside through the window, there was nothing in or on the rig that I could use. Pretty sure the fuse box would fit my '02 Gilbertd but the R7 fuse looked discolored and I didn't want to take a chance. Ordered a new fuse box from Miami British. $215 and free shipping. Suppose to arrive tomorrow (the 23rd). Happy Holidays & Happy New Year!
Vance

Hello All,
Update: Went back to salvage yard today (Pull-A-Part, Memphis). "If the key is not in the car, then we do not have it." This means that since the Rangie is locked with no battery and no key, the only ingress is through the partially opened window.
Getting is no picnic; getting out is the hard part.
Vancer

Orangebean & Ferryman, Thank you for your replies,
When I said outside the rig, I meant looking in the driver's door with the window mostly down, The door lock is accessible, it just will not move up or down. It seems to be partway up.

The breaker yard most likely would not have the key. They put the rig out in the yard with hundreds of other makes & models "as is."
I will ask if they have the key anyway next time I go there. The P38 had been stripped a good bit before it ever made it to the yard. I was very disappointed as they e-mailed me the Rangie was there. I was probably the first one to get to it on the yard.

My burled walnut window switch plate is cracked. All I find are the black ones. Also looking for the trailer electrical hookups and a fuse box (to have on hand). Oddly enough, all the electrickery things on my Rig work except for the cigar lighter light.
Cheers!
Vancer

Hello All,
I found a 2000 P38 in a breaker yard. The doors are locked, the tailgate is open but twisted with sharp edges and too dangerous to enter through. The driver side (LHD) window is down 3/4's. The breaker yard does not allow batteries. There is no key in the Rig. The engine compartment is readily accessible. I climbed in through the driver's side window but getting out was much more difficult. Not good form either.

Is there a way to mechanically unlock the doors without a key and without a battery from outside the vehicle?

Also, is there an emergency escape latch on the tailgate? I read there was in another forum but that was quickly shot down by another member. I can't find it on my 2002 P38A LHD 4.6 HSE Rig. Did not see it in the Owner's Manual or Rave.
Thanks,
Vancer