I'm going to be removing the LPG kit from my 2007 4.2 Supercharged L322.
It's a BRC kit with a Fly SF ECU. It's got twin BRC Genius MB1500 reducers (less then 12 months old) and a pumped flash lube system with it. I believe the tank is around 95 litres in capacity and isn't far off full either!
Is anybody interested in purchasing the kit once it's been removed? It will be removed carefully with nothing cut or broken.
David.
Replacement heater panel sourced from a local breakers yard today for £20 :) Going back at the weekend when it’s not blowing a gale and chucking it down for a few more odds n sods.
Ordered 5 LM272’s from eBay so will repair the old panel when they arrive too as you never know when a spare might come in handy.
David.
I saw the melted LM272 chip when I stripped it. I wondered about replacing it but am not sure if there’s another fault somewhere on the board as it wasn’t driving the blend motor before I blew it up.
Might try and find a later control panel so that I can keep it original.
Had a proper look at this today. The heat coming out of the passengers side when set to the windscreen was actually coming from the drivers side. The passengers side blend motor wasn’t moving and was on cold.
I stripped the motor and checked it over. When trying to calibrate the motors using Testbook this one wasn’t trying to turn at all. I put power directly to the motor and stupidly forgot it was connected to the HEVAC panel… it didn’t like that as it promptly dispersed a puff of smoke.
I had a spare panel in the workshop that the fascia PCB was faulty on so swapped the main PCB from one to the other and reassembled it in the car. The blend motor then start started turning as you’d expect so i reassembled it and refitted it and it’s working great after a recalibration so it looks like the PCB was the cause of the fault before I fried it further.
When I press AUTO now I get a fault code stored “Compressor Clutch Control Circuit Fault (O/C or S/C 0v)” am wondering if this could be a compatibility issue with the panel as it came from a 1996 car and is now in a 2002 car or if it’s because there’s no refrigerant in the A/C. The last panel was on the car with no gas in it and it never flagged a fault but am unsure if it’s maybe a difference in the firmware.
Time for a bit of Googling I think.
David.
That's my next plan of attack I think.
I can feel the flap moving through the side of it but something just isn't right. I've got a little inspection camera that I'll feed in and see if things are moving.
After doing the heater matrix and o-rings on our Vogue SE in January 2020 and having to bypass the matrix again early in 2021, I’ve got the dashboard out doing the whole job again.
This time I’ve opted for an Audi heater matrix and have removed the metal pipes through the bulkhead and replaced them with silicon pipes connected directly to the T’s in the engine bay where the LPG comes off the heater hoses.
After finishing I decided to fill it with coolant with the dashboard, airbags and HEVAC panel connected so that I could get it pressurised and check for leaks.
All was going well at this point, no leaks visible and everything seeming to be tight.
I then moved the flaps on the heater box and am a bit confused now… On the Windscreen setting I’m getting heat on both sides, however, on Face/Lap and Feet I’m only getting warm air on the drivers side. On the passengers side I get cold air.
I had to split the heater box so that I could trim it slightly to get the Audi core in and am wondering if there’s a chance I’ve got something in the wrong place.
Open to ideas on best things to check though :)
David.
As above, I think the time to be realistic has arrived.
We’ve got 5 Series 2B Forward Controls all in varying states of disrepair.
A rolling chassis with axles, chassis and cab.
A 2.6 Ex-GPO Cherry Picker
A South African tour bus
A normal pick up version with drop sides (stripped with a new chassis)
An ex-Scottish Water mobile workshop (chassis was extended by Scottish Water) now just a flat body on the back. Engine remove but have a spare 2.6 engine.
There’s a few old pictures on page 2 of this thread:
https://www.900club.org/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=127&start=10
None of these are working or driving and will need to be collected on a transporter or trailer. I could possibly deliver within an agreed distance of Glasgow where these are located.
I have no idea what they are worth so this thread is more intended to gauge interest and canvas opinions on values. I’m pondering the idea of keeping the one that’s been stripped to try and get time to build it but the others I’m not going to get near I don’t think.
Would appreciate peoples thoughts as I really don't know what the market is like.
David.
I’ve been looking around it for days and was about to throw in the towel when I just happened to glance and see that. Quite lucky really as I was loosing the will to live.
This afternoon we managed to find the leak in the Air Con system thankfully.
The soapy water spray was running off the compressor to quickly so we weren’t seeing the bubbles. We got some leak detecting spray today that was much thicker and didn’t run off so quickly and we found this!
Going to order a new compressor and get it fitted then hopefully that’s another part of this P38 back to working condition.
David.
Had another look at this yesterday, I definitely can’t find any leak with soapy water and 10 bar of nitrogen in it so I’m going to need to look at getting some R134a and some UV dye into it.
I’ve got the UV dye so am thinking of buying a tub of refrigerant from Halfords to get the compressor to kick in and circulate the dye and then looking around the whole system with the UV torch now as I’m all out of ideas.
Thankfully the dashboard is out of this one just now as I’m doing the heater matrix (again!) and until I’ve found the leak I don’t really want to build it back up in case it’s the evaporator.
David.
The other option was one of these:
And a can of refrigerant from Halfords in the hope that it’ll be enough to allow it to engage the compressor, circulate the dye and then allow us two attempts with an R134a sniffer and the UV dye.
One other thing I’m pondering the idea of is filling it with something that could be sniffed with a gas sniffer and then flushing it with compressed air and nitrogen.
We’ve got a sniffer and it’ll detect very small leaks but am not sure it’s a great idea.
If it’s a Range Rover Sport it’ll be an L320, if it’s a full size Range Rover it’ll be an L322.
Both very different cars as the Sport is basically a Discovery whereas the L322 is unique to itself.
Does your car have a split tailgate like the P38?
Morning All - Hope everyone had a good Christmas!
I’m trying to sort the air conditioning on our 2002 Vogue SE at the moment. The last VSE I did wasn’t too bad but this one’s being a pain!
So far I’ve replaced:
Air Con Condenser
Air Con Drier
Pressure Switch
Tri-Switch
Both A/C pipes that run along the bulkhead
Various O-Rings
After doing all of the above I put 2 bar of Nitrogen into the system and soaked all of the connections with soapy water and got no bubbles anywhere. I then took the pressure up to 10 bar and after an hour I’d lost 1 bar of pressure. Over 24hrs I’m loosing anywhere between 6 and 8 bar of pressure in it.
I’ve done soapy water tests over and over on all of the connections that I can see and am unable to find any leaks anywhere. I’ve got the dash out just now replacing the heater matrix so I’ve sprayed the evaporator too and cannot see or hear any leaks anywhere.
I’ve bought some UV dye but as there’s zero refrigerant in the system I’m unsure how to circulate it as I don’t fancy trying to engage the compressor when it’s only nitrogen in the system.
Has anyone got any thoughts or suggestions on where to go next as I’m at a loss unfortunately.
Thanks,
David.
I’ve dealt with Duncan personally over the last couple of months, he’s been nothing short of a true gent, honest to his word and with zero messing around whatsoever. It really is tragic what’s happened to him and his business.
David.
Foam on the heater box replaced today. Not my neatest job but it seals in the right places and is better then what was left when it was removed.
This car has had a new air con condenser and drier last week whilst it’s been in the shed so I put 10 bar of Nitrogen in the system.
After an hour we were down to 9 bar.
I soaked a few places with soapy water and sure enough found it leaking in exactly the same place as the other VSE that I had.
Looks like we need to order a couple more pipes for it now.
David.
I removed ours yesterday to change the heater matrix… there’s a lot of stripping but it’s not actually that bad a job to be honest.
This guide is great. I followed it on my iPad and it was spot on.
http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/dash-removal/
David.
Been doing some more tinkering with this car this weekend. The heater matrix was replaced almost exactly 12 months ago but it was leaking again. I’d tried nipping the bolt but it didn’t cure it so I decided enough was enough and tackled the job again.
This time I’ve gone for an Audi style core from Nissens.
Thankfully, there’s now no o-rings on it. I’ve removed the aluminium pipes and have run silicon hoses through the bulkhead. Thankfully the LPG system is tee’d into the coolant pipes just in front of the bulkhead so the silicon pipes don’t have to go far.
The old matrix hadn’t done 1000 miles and when I looked in it I saw this protruding and showing in the heater pipe connection.
It was rigid plastic that I couldn’t get out by hand so I grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it.
It certainly wasn’t visible when the heater matrix was installed and I’ve never seen anything like it in a heater matrix before.
I’m going to replace the foam on top of the heater box tomorrow as well as fabricate a small bracket to hold the core into the box and then hopefully get most of it reassembled.
David.
I wish I had the time, dedication and funds available to do a job like you’ve done to our 2002 Vogue SE.
I’ve just seen more pictures of it on the link you posted, that car really is an absolute credit to you.
David.
Mark Adams who owns Tornado Systems (they specialise in tuning Rover V8’s) told me that the THOR MAF sensors should be changed if you’ve no history that it’s been done in the service history.
He also said don’t fit anything other then a genuine Bosch one.
I fitted a new Bosch MAF to our 4.6 THOR when the new engine went in and it’s been great ever since.
David.