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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Dec 29 2016
08 January 2017 - 01:20

Well, up until now I've only ever fiddled with 4.6 V8 Range Rovers, that is until tonight, when I collected a 2.5 DSE that was to cheap to walk past.

The car is a 99 V registered Oxford Blue DSE with Sandstone Leather, the car has 2 sets of wheels with it, both aftermarket, one of them is a set of 20" Eltex alloy wheels which Paddock retail at £410 a wheel including tyres, and the other set is a set of 19" Range Rover Sport wheels. I've already sourced a set of Comets for the car so both sets of these will be for sale. It's got Sat Nav but it doesn't power on and it's got an after market stereo fitted to it.

The main problem though is the gearbox - there's no drive at all. The selector is incredibly stiff, when you pull it thought the gears the indicator on the dashboard changes from P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1 and when you move it to low it beeps and the light flashses and it says LOW on the dash but there's no clunk from the transfer box motor. In High or Low there's not even an attempt at drive. There's no noises or clunks as you move selector and when you rev it there's not even a shake from it as if it's trying to drive.

Unfortunately there's no dipstick on this one so checking the oil is a bit more tricky. I need to get under it and check the selector cable hasn't broken or come free from the gearbox, other then that, is there anything that is worth checking?

I've got a 4.6 breaker complete with a 4HP24 box on it, I've read a few things on the net and think with a bit of fettling it might fit. Does anyone have any information that could help?

Thanks guys,

David.

08 January 2017 - 21:21

Thanks Dave.

I've been having a fiddle again today, there's absolutely no attempt to drive when selecting the gears. I need to get it off the trailer and onto the ramp so I can get under it. I think the first port of call is going to be to drop the fluid from the gearbox and see what story that tells.

I've got a spare 4HP24 gearbox here that is still attached to my 1995 breaker that I bought with a knackered engine. I'm keen to try and get it out so I can see whats what with the two of them sat side by side.

Annoyingly though the first hurdle is going to be to sort the drivers door latch, the door is stuck shut and won't open from inside or out. Whenever I unlock the car the central locking opens then locks straight away. Using the key from the outside doesn't make any difference either unfortunately.

David.

09 January 2017 - 20:50

I spoke to Ashcroft Transmissions this morning to find out what the cost of rebuilding the transmission would be. They quoted £750 + VAT to rebuild it. Although from the symptoms I gave them apparently it could either be gearbox or transfer box although the symptoms were definitely mechanical.

He suggested putting it in park and seeing if it would move, if it moves then the fault was with the transfer box, if it doesn't move then the fault was on the gearbox.

The car is still on the trailer which is a tilt bed. So tomorrow, I'll tilt the trailer and remove the straps from the wheels, whilst in park I'll then release the winch and see if the car moves. Hopefully that will allow me to make a decision as to whats at fault and where to go next.

I'm popping across on the ferry from Gourock to Dunoon tomorrow to pick up a set of Comet wheels for the car, at present it's got a set of 19" Range Rover Sport alloys and a set of 20" Eltex wheels with General Grabbers on it.

I can't help but thinking that the fact it's wearing 2 of the 20" wheels on the back and 2 of the 19" wheels on the front might have something to do with the fact that it was for sale with no drive from the gearbox.

David.

10 January 2017 - 17:28

Well I had a look at the map this morning and realised that although Kilcreggan is within spitting distance of Dunoon, it's over an hours drive. The ferry that goes to Kilcreggan is also a foot passenger only ferry and I decided that they probably wouldn't like me carrying 5 Range Rover wheels onto the boat as a foot passenger. For some reason, Dad didn't seem up for sliding a bar through them and carrying one end either.

So, we had a nice run out in Dad's i6 Freelander 2 to stretch it's legs and we collected a set of Comets.

I got home this evening and carried out the test that Ashcroft Transmissions suggested. The car does indeed hold itself stationary on the trailer when the bed is tilted and as soon as I slip it into neutral and release the winch it takes off down the bed.

I used Dad's 1997 4.6 HSE to tow the DSE back to ours and about 10 miles from home it went into an EAS Hard Fault. I looked at it with Testbook and found a fault saying the air pressure was permanently low. I'm not surprised really as the compressor on that's been noisy for a good while. Stripping it down today I found that the bearings in the compressor were knackered allowing about 5mm of side to side movement.

The compressor on the DSE looks new so I've swapped them temporarily so that the 4.6 can go back into service and I'll order another one up. The one that failed was 5 years old but has only done about 20k in that time which is a bit disappointing as I'm sure there's no leaks on the system. When I cross reference the part number from the Island 4x4 invoice with the part number on the website it shows as being a Dunlop compressor.

Hey ho, a fun day!

David.

13 January 2017 - 19:57

Seeing as I'm about to be replacing the gearbox on the DSE I was thinking of flushing the oil cooler. I don't know what's gone wrong in the old gearbox and I don't want to risk any more damage then necessary by any crap that might be floating around in the oil system.

I've been looking on Google and found a video on YouTube of Eric The Car Guy flushing an oil cooler using a can of spray solution.

Video of cooler flush

I can't find anything similar in the UK so I was wondering about flushing it backwards with ATF or possibly Diesel, I just wondered if anybody had any suggestions or ideas.

Thanks

David.

04 March 2017 - 22:05

Evening guys,

I'm after a spot of advice...

I'm about to put a new gearbox into the DSE, however, with this being a 99MY it doesn't have the transmission dipstick fitted to it. From previous experience, it's much easier to fill the transmission and to check the level using the dipstick from above then it is using the fill plug on the side.

I've got a 1995 MY 4.6 breaker with the dipstick and tube still on it, is it possible to retrofit it to the DSE whilst the gearbox is swapped out?

Thanks!

David.

11 December 2017 - 09:25

We fitted the blue polybushes to our P38 about 6 years ago, just after we'd got it. They weren't cheap ones either, they were made by Polybush.

At the time, it tightened the car up and improved the ride significantly but after about 12 months the car started to feel like something was wrong. It started wandering on the road and didn't fill you with confidence when on narrow roads. I put it back in the air on the ramp and went over everything with a bar but wouldn't really find anything that looked that bad so we kept using it.

A few months later it started to develop a horrendous vibration if you hit a pot hole or an uneven road surface. It almost felt like the car was about to shake itself to pieces. The only thing you could do to stop it was to lift off and let is slow a few mph and then normal service would be resumed.

I put the car back on the ramp and got the long pry bar out and found movement in the front radius arms.

Water had gotten in between the polybush and the hole in the radius arm and corrosion had occurred so the bush didn't fit properly in the hole any longer. When trying to take the bolt out to remove the radius arm the metal insert in the middle of the polybush had corroded to the bolt as well. No amount of battering the bolt would make it shift and because the bush was there I couldn't get the oxy acetylene in to heat it. It took hours to clean the radius arms up to a point where they were fit to take the LR bushes.

In the end I had to use a very thin angle grinder cutting disc to cut the bolt out inside the mounting points on the axle to remove the bloody radius arm and replace all the bolts on both radius arms.

At this point I bought genuine Land Rover bushes (all of them) and my Dad made a tool on the lathe to fit them as the genuine bushes need compressing as you press them into the arm. When they come out of the tool they expand slightly so they're a very tight fit into the radius arm.

5.5 years later the genuine bushes are still tight, there's no wander or vibration from anything in the car and it drives spot on. The only bushes you couldn't get from LR at the time was the rear radius arm bushes so I had to fit aftermarket ones to them.

Personally, I'd never fit polybushes to anything ever again, the longevity of them I found awful and they're no cheaper then genuine. The only benefit is as mentioned above, they are very easy to fit as they come in two halves with a metal tube that pushes into the middle of the bush.

I'm sure others have probably had better results but these are my findings on my car using bushes I bought :)

03 January 2018 - 22:57

I've checked all that and it's assigning my adapter to COM5, I'm just wondering if the Tartarini software is expecting to see it on a specific port and that possible a reason that it can't connect to the ECU.

I'll give COM1 a try tomorrow and see how I get on with it.

David.

27 December 2017 - 22:49

Right, onto the next issue on the red VSE.

It has a Tartarini LPG kit fitted to it that was installed in 2005 when the car was 3 years old and had covered 37k miles at a cost of £2150 according to the invoice I have here. The owner, a local gentlemen, was a jammy bugger as there's also paperwork in the history file for an £800 rebate he got from the green energy trust for having the car converted!

Anyway, the system is 12 years old and had done almost 80k miles since installation. None of the service positions in the book have been stamped so I can only assume that it's never been touched since it went in.

The car will switch to LPG and it will idle OK but when sitting on the motorway at a steady speed the car develops a stutter the second you switch it over, as if it's being starved of gas. When trying to climb the hill on the single lane road to our house, on LPG there's no power there either, it slows down on the hills, and won't go.

First things first, I was going to order the filters for it and change them but on the several single point systems I've worked on I've never noticed the filters getting that filthy. I can't help but think that the vaporiser/reducer is probably going to be due for replacement. If so, do I need to replace it with a like for like one? If not, is there any particular one that people would recommend?

Any hints/tips/suggestions would be appreciated as I don't know very much about multipoint unfortunately.

David.

30 December 2017 - 23:13

It is indeed Multi Point. I’ve only ever worked in Single Point before so it’s going to be a learning curve.

I’ve been doing some more research on it today, the car will drive on LPG, it doesn’t feel like it’s misfiring or anything like that but it does feel lethargic. If you keep your foot int he same position and then switch it back to Petrol you can instantly feel the car start to accelerate. There’s a big difference.

The reducer/vaporiser is a Tartarini one, the Type RP/G E-97 the Version is RP/G 05/S/. From looking online there’s plenty of parts readily available so I’m going to order a service kit for that and the filters for it and see where we go from there.

David

31 December 2017 - 11:24

I believe the cable is the same as the LPG one that I’ve already got which is handy. The software I’ve managed to find as a free download online :)

David.

08 January 2018 - 17:50

Well, my cable has been dispatched, so fingers crossed!

Takes a brave man to run a Supercharged Range Rover on LPG. Those AJV8's have soft valve seats I believe. Is flashlube a total cure for that or does it just prolong the agony?

David.

01 January 2018 - 17:54

Well, I've done some digging today and found the following:

  1. The LPG lead I have will connect to the Tartarini ECU :)
  2. There is only one filter between the vaporiser and the injectors, none on the solenoids like our other cars.
  3. It's a fully sequential system that's fitted.
  4. It's a 95 litre tank that's sitting in the spare wheel well.

I've ordered a new filter and a vaporiser refurb kit which will hopefully turn up before the weekend. Once I've got both fitted I'll try and get it to do an auto calibration and hopefully it'll be ok afterwards.

David.

01 January 2018 - 18:27

Thanks for the heads up.

I had Testbook out yesterday and gave the car a quick going over. There were a couple of faults stored on the engine ECU so I've cleared all of them and reset the fuel trims. It feels smoother then it did having done that. I've done about 65 miles since. I'll get a few more covered before the weekend and I'll run Testbook over it again and make sure that none of the faults have returned before commencing with any mapping or calibrating on the LPG :)

David.

01 January 2018 - 20:57

Well, I've just been and tried the Tartarini software that I managed to download from the net, I installed it, went to the car with me cable, opened the software and it said "Insert USB key. The software will be closed"

I'm using a USB > Serial adapter, then a Serial LPG lead that works perfectly with the Millennium and Leonardo ECU's I've used it on before. I wonder if for some reason it doesn't like this cable or if I need an unlocked version of the software.

I'll have a scour and see what I can find for now.

With a spot of luck, refurbishing the hardware might be enough to make it work if the map hasn't been lost from the ECU though.

David.

02 January 2018 - 17:07

Thanks for the download. I've installed that and it's working without any USB key that the other software I downloaded was asking for.

Unfortunately it refuses to see my ECU. It comes up with an error saying that it can't connect when I open it. Is there only one version of the Tartarini software? If so, I'm wondering if the cable I'm using isn't compatible with the later type of systems. I notice the Tartarini cables advertised have a fancy box of tricks in the middle of them with LED's on them.

I wonder if it's worth trying to order one to rule it out.

David.

02 January 2018 - 19:50

Thanks guys, that’s most helpful.

On my car, the connector is just beside the ECU, it’s an 8 pin Molex connector that’s there. Does that mean i don’t need both of the cables in the link above?

As it’s been said in a previous post that i shouldn’t need to calibrate it, I’m tempted to just rebuild the reducer and fit the new filter and give it a try before spending another 50 quid on the cable.

David.

02 January 2018 - 20:08

That’s great, thanks very much for your advice.

I can probably get a couple of molex connectors from work so I’ll have a go at that rather then dropping 50 quid on the cables. If I need to, I will, but if I can get away without it just now then it’d be preferable.

The VSE is outside at the front of the house at the moment where there’s not much light, due to working yesterday and today, I’ve been mucking around in the dark, I didn’t even think to look at the pins in each end of the plug. Simple things eh!

David.

02 January 2018 - 21:51

That’s brilliant, Gilbertd, thank you!

03 January 2018 - 22:39

Right, tonight I've made a little extension lead for my LPG cable. It pins out exactly the same as the cable that Gilbert posted above yet when connected to the car still has a no communication error.

It's pitch dark up here and wet so I'm not spending any time on it tonight. I've just found out that I'm off work tomorrow so I'll have a play around tomorrow hopefully.

The Tartarini software doesn't seem to let you make many changes to the setup, has anyone else used it with a USB > Serial connector? Does it matter what port the connector is set to on the PC?

David.