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Oh dear,...
I removed the original sunroof to service/check the mechanisms, and wanted to renew the seal around the glass panel.

On three sides, the glass was no longer bonded to the frame - quite rusty on the metal frame. It was still bonded on the leading edge, and a pain to try and remove. So much so that I broke the glass. Not happy 🙁🙁.

Ordered a replacement, removed the seal and .... it's just the same. It's a real pain to try and get a blade in there. Probably do-able, but I think it will take a couple of hours.

So, does anyone know what the bonding agent is between the sunroof glass panel and its frame, and what the solvent might be? It looks rubber-ish. I tried putting a slice of it into acetone, and thinners and neither of those seem to make much impact on it.

Ta

Hi guys,

It looks like I'll be following my front axle refurb with a rear axle one.... what fun!

A quick glance at the rear brake lines tonight showed lots of very, very rusty connectors and hose ends - and quite complicated routing, which (at first sight) I don't fully see the point of.

When I did my Defender recently, I went for a full set of braided, stainless lines for the entire system. Should never need to look at them again.

So I'm wondering about a set of these for the back of my P38. I don't know what the cost might be yet ( I need to take some measurements first and send these and some pics to the supplier so he can make up a quote). The full Defender system was ca. £300/350 I think.

If I did this, then I could go for a much simpler routing. I suppose it would be possible to simply run a long, single hose from the ABS unit to each caliper, allowing enough length for axle flex and articulation. More likely I'd opt to have a join in them somewhere. As they are stainless fixings there isn't much concern about future maintenance.

I did a search for braided lines and didn't find anything, so my apologies if this is an old chestnut.

So, has anyone done this? Are there routing issues to consider? Why do the lines run up from the chassis to the top of the rear shocks... and then over the tank.. ? Is there any reason a much simpler/more direct route can't be used?

Even if there is a reasonable expense involved, apart from longevity, not having to deal with awkward joins and routing would probably be worth paying for in my opinion, and would doubtless avoid lots of stress and swearing.

As always, any advice or comments gratefully received.

Thanks.

Hi guys,

I've searched here, and googled extensively, but no joy....

I'm at the stage where I'm about to fit the swivels back on. I had to remove the old collets, so vertical adjustment will be needed. My googling has shown some Heath Robinson options and I might try a 'workaround' based on these. I'm confident that I'll get it "into the ballpark", but I don't really want to get into a protracted series of tinkering and adjustments, so ideally I'd like to get the proper dimensions and see if I could get something made up locally.

The web has thrown up nothing. Forum posters saying they'd measure and post and then nothing. There was a hopeful looking attachment on the rr.net site, but it can't be found. It's like looking for the 'poo' from the offspring of a unicorn and a rocking horse....

As we probably all know, the proper tool is about £1k..!

I think I did ask this earlier, but buried in a rebuild thread, so I thought I'd try once more and ask more specifically.

Ta.

(off out to the garage shortly to see how confident I am in the results of my workaround option)

Hi guys,

Been making some progress on getting my car moving again - working on the front axle 'refurb'.

While doing that, I was undoing the back of the OS radius arm and had a closer look at the EAS tank. It looks more than a little 'crusty', with maybe, some pitting.

With the axles/hubs I've found that a hammer and chisel is an effective way of removing the rust and it seems simply that corrosion has got in underneath the original paint.

I guess this could be the same - remove it, clean off the rust, prep and paint - but it is a pressure vessel.

What do you guys think with more experienced eyes? At the moment the system is drained down to change the front bags, so a good time to pull this out.

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Thanks as usual

Hey guys,

One of these days I'll update my 'ups and downs' thread to say that the car is back on the road and MOT'd..... I think I've all the parts I need, I just have to find a solid 2 or 3 days to crack on with it.

In the meantime, assuming I get to that stage one of the things I might want to do is carry an open/canadian canoe. I have a choice of 2 but they're both 16ft boats, and benefit from the bars being as far apart as possible ( fore and aft) on the roof. On the Defender this is easy, with bars that clamp into the guttering wherever you want. On the other hand, they're not that heavy - roughly 25-28kg depending on which one I take.

How does the P38 roof rack system work? I have looked at ebay etc and it does seem like it's a little more resticted, with some of the pictures I've seen showing the cross bars to be fitted relatively close together given the available length of the car.

I can see that there's a 'genuine' rail and crossbar option, but even used it's spendy, so for occasional use I guess I'm more likely to get 'bars and feet' but does that mean I'm restricted to specific points on the car? Could I use the furthest forward and back points to give the maximum spread?

And, any recommendations at all for what to get?

Thanks

(Edit to say I did try to search first, but couldn't find a specific answer)

Hi folks,

This is a bit "what if" at this stage, just trying to understand what's possible - once I get the car mobile again! However, like the title says, my car has very basic grey velour seats, with only the up/down button on the drivers side, and even that's broken off and missing.

If I spend some more time and money getting the running gear sorted, and it looks more like the car is a 'keeper' then what are my options for replacement seats?

I see there's a couple of breakers doing complete interiors. I don't want to change the colour at all, but if I found a good set of grey leather seats are they a straight swap over? They seem much more commonly available with all of the adjustment buttons. Would they go into my car at all, and/or would the BECM need to be amended/reactivated?

If the answer is a straight no, then that's fine - one less thing to think about!

Any advice gratefully received as always.

Ta

Donald

Hello all,

I thought I might try to start a thread where I could keep all my sh!t together - ask my daft laddie questions, and once I get a picture hosting platform set up, post pics of the more crusty bits of my car.

I did introduce myself elsewhere, but for the purpose of this thread my car is a RHD, 4.0 Thor auto, 2000my. Base/economy spec, and currently only on about 78k miles. I bought it last December on about 73,000.

I recently asked a question about getting underneath the car safely ( https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1831-getting-underneath-a-p38-safely-and-the-reason-why ) to try and figure out what was causing a steering wobble. Now awaiting a bunch of parts to start tackling and tightening up the front end suspension and steering. As I say, I'll post pics of the more crusty bits once I get Imgur or the likes organised.

However...... and getting to my latest daft question....

On the way to work this morning ( short run - about 7-8 miles) no wobble to begin with, starts about half-way. On the way home, same story. So I thought I would rule out tyre pressures or a slow leak. Bend down to take the valve cap off the drivers wheel and the heat is just bouncing off it. You could 'touch' the wheel - but you wouldn't want to hold your hand against if for longer than an instant. The valve cap wouldn't unscrew properly because it was half-melted.... oh dear... Passenger side was warm - maybe a little bit warmer than I might have expected after an 8 mile run at town speeds, but nothing in comparison to the driver's side.

I've left it where it is to cool down, and then I'll put it into its carport.

I assume this is a binding brake caliper. This will be my first experience with the 'sliding' type calipers - previous things I've worked on (minis/Defenders) have been the fixed caliper/moving pistons type. So, I'm further assuming that the caliper is sticking on the pins that it's supposed to slide along.

The working theory is that I don't get the wobble when I start off because everything is cold - then as things warm up, especially with a sticky caliper, things start to bind. Having one brake acting on one side is generating odd behaviour, and maybe my steering wobble??

Does this all sound about right so far?

So, moving on to fixing this:

  • am I likely to need new caliper components, or just to clean and lubricate the caliper slides?
  • will the heat have damaged the wheel bearing??
  • I suppose it's possible the disc might have warped (feckity feck) but I certainly haven't thrown water at it to cool it down or anything.
  • is there any possibility this is not caused by a mechanical issue, but electrical/ABS sort of stuff? I've owned ABS cars before, but never worked on them (see previous comment about minis and defenders).

Having just dropped £400 on suspension components, the last thing I really need is to start rebuilding the brakes too!

Finallly, just for some light relief. If I put the car on axle stands to do all this, and pull the battery to put it on a trickle charge, does it really matter how long the car is disconnected? The reconnection routine will be the same after 3 weeks as after 3 hours?

I will appreciate any assistance and advice as always - keeping this old thing on the road will be a new learning curve.

Ta

Donald

Hi guys,
Well, just about getting to the point where I need to do a little more to my 2000 4.0. 77k miles.

One of the small mental obstacles has been: how do I get underneath safely without any risk of the car collapsing on me? I did read one thing about blocks under the axles, or something like that - harder to understand without pics - but I almost took it to mean that I would need to fit wooden blocks above the axles, between them and the bodywork.

I certainly don't think I'd be happy relying on the car's systems itself (locking with the switch, or with a door open) so looking for the practical but sensible methods that experienced owners use. I have a concrete floored garage, hefty axle stands, a big (3 ton?)trolley jack, and a 'little' trolley jack. Well used to using all of these on the 110 Defender, so not a complete novice, but it's one of these things that you don't know until you know. I've tried searching the web, but not found anything.

Why? I have a nasty wobble which I need to investigate. It feels like a wheel's about to fall off. (I've been there before with another vehicle). It used to be very occasional - i.e. happend on a longer trip back in March, barely happened again until last week.

I used to think it was speed related - if I pootled about at 50, then no bother; if I went up to 70+ then it would kick in, but ease again once I'd slowed. Now I'm not so sure - it happened on a short run home last Friday (and I haven't used it since - because I don't want a wheel to fall off!) and on that occasion it seemed to be present even down to lower speeds.

My thoughts are - in no real order - a duff propshaft UJ which is getting worse; a diff missing it's damper thing; or a wheel bearing that's on the way out. On a Defender I'd also be wondering about the front swivel tension.

Any help you can offer on safely getting underneath, and pointers on likely wobble candidates would be very gratefully received.

(off out now to replace a timing cover on a 1.2 Clio!)

Hey guys,
Hope everyone's well.
I think I've had my first brush with key fob shenanigans.
I was working on the car this afternoon, fitting the trim back in after fitting the new fan controller and refurbed switchpack and HEVAC controller. So I had two key fobs with me, both sitting on the top of the dash. After I'd finished, I put one key into the ignition, tried to start the car and got the engine disabled message.... and this was the original key that used to do everything. Puzzled.
But maybe I should go back to the beginning:
When I got the car I was given three fobs - we'll call them 1, 2 and 3.
Fob 1 was the only one I was using. The other two were in the house. I thought they were actually broken/dead batteries, but I was also concerned that relying on just #1 was a bit risky. Examining #2 and #3 I discovered the little red light was working on both. Result! So I took #2 down, synched it with the car just be sticking it in the ignition and had 2 good keys. Happy chappy.

So, today. Fobs 1 and 2 are clipped together (don't ask me why). Opened the car, drove it into the garage, took the keys out and left them on the dash. Because of the work, I had 2 or 3 of the doors being opened and shut frequently.

Finished the work, went to start the car, picked up the fobs, put #1 into the ignition, and got the engine disabled; press fob message. Tried pressing the buttons on fob #1 and it did absolutely nothing.

In the end I put fob #2 into the ignition, started the car, parked and locked it, with fob #2. Fob #1 - the original one I was using from the begining will now not lock or unlock the doors - but will start the car again!?

I thought synchronising was as simple as putting the key into the ignition?

I did look at the drivers manual - but couldn't find anything helpful in there.

I'm hoping it's something simple - but any advice on what I might have done wrong? Hopefully I've explained things clearly enough.

Ta

Donald

Hi guys,
As above, I'm hoping to remove these to get them sent down to Marty for a fix. I'd do the job in the garage, but after that it would be good to move the car back out into the carport.

Will it still run / move with these things removed? I know I oughtn't to "big up" the Defender too much on here :-) but unless it's missing a wheel or something it will still go....!

It seems to me that neither the switch panel or HEVAC should be 'mission critical' as far as the car starting and running is concerned, but I don't know if the car's brain will like them being missing?

Thanks

Donald

Evening all,

(I did try a forum search first, but didn't find anything in the first couple of pages of results).

My car (2000 4.0L 'base spec) came to me with an aftermarket stereo - a Sony radio/ CD player. However while it plays OK in the front doors, there's no sound in the back.

In my internet wanderings about P38s I thought I'd seen something about the radio install not being as straightforward as unplugging one and swapping in another, but I can't find anything which outlines the basic issues or any options.

Can anyone point me in the direction of this sort of info?

(It probably isn't the most important thing I should be thinking about - but you've got to start somewhere!)

Ta

Donald

Hi folks,

Just a quick introduction as a new forum member.
I've joined here because I can see a need for experienced assistance in my near future having just bought a 4.0l P38 - 2000my. Took the train down to Newcastle to do the deal, drove nearly 300 miles home without a hitch. I haven't any pics to put up yet but no doubt those will follow at some stage.

This will be my 3rd RR, having owned 2 'Classics' in the distant past. One with a 3.5L carburretted V8 mated to the 3-speed Torque-flyte box; and one with a 200Tdi conversion that someone else had done. Never had a P38 before though, so no doubt a steep learning curve awaits.

If anyone's intrested in Defenders, then I've been driving one of them as my daily vehicle for the last 18 years or so. Currently nearing completion of a 'rolling rebuild' - all outlined here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html

Looking forward to participating in what looks to be another experienced, polite and considerate forum.

Donald