I think all is not well with my R90E - the engine cut out as I turned into the end of the farm track this evening, and wouldn't restart on gas. Eventually it restarted on petrol, after a bit of farting and coughing.

Driving the gas solenoid on "by hand" resulted in a loud hiss that emptied the line almost immediately (only hissed for about a second). I'm pretty sure it shouldn't do that. I opened up the vapouriser but couldn't find any signs of split diaphragms or anything, but I strongly suspect the vapouriser has had it. It was leaking quite a bit of coolant, too.

I had a quick look on Tinley Tech's website but they seem to be out of stock of R90Es. They've got some others ranging from about 50 quid to a couple of hundred quid - is there much difference in performance in a closed-loop system? My local LPG fitter probably has multipoint vapourisers, which I guess are no good for my singlepoint install.

Stick some photos of your P38s (or indeed any other vehicles you drive) in interesting places here. I'll start :-)

I've come to the conclusion that (one of) my massive oil leaks is because of the O-ring on the end of the pressure relief valve. I've seen a kit with a circlip and O-ring for 20 quid on eBay which sounds like a bit of a pisstake. Does anyone know what size the O-ring should be, offhand?

The ten thousandth post was this one by Orangebean. I should have thought of some sort of prize :-) The very first one was my post here after I'd deleted the "dummy" first post from setting the forum up, right back at the end of 2015.

Thanks to everyone for all the support!

Does anyone know what the differences between pre-'97 and post-'97 GEMS fuseboxes are?

I can search through the posts and find all of them that have images hosted on Photobucket.

If you'd like me to host them locally I can probably just copy them over by hand, at least until I get the image uploader finished. If you'd like me to do this, either reply on this thread or drop me a PM.

... for the phrase "The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse".

... how important are they? I've got a set of manifolds with burst flexis (driver's side way worse than passenger side) and I was thinking about just cutting them out, bolting the manifolds to a scrap head, and welding in a straight bit of tube.

How much do they actually need to flex? If I use hex bolts to hold them on it's a damn sight easier to get to the one behind the steering column shaft.

I'm thinking about fitting a third lambda sensor just for the gas ECU to mine. A few folk seem to have zirconia sensors in an extra sensor bung welded to the Y-pipe.

Any particular recommendations, or just whatever cheap generic single-wire lambda sensor I can pick up? Would it be better with a heated sensor?

As the title says, I changed out the rocker shafts and rockers for some second-hand but good ones (although all the rockers have die numbers that suggest they should have been replaced, the hardened pushrod seats haven't sunk). Everything's back together, and on startup it revs to about 1800rpm when cold and idles at about 900-1000rpm when warm.

The fact that it does eventually screw down the idle suggests that the idle stepper is working. It does the same on gas and petrol, with a little hunting on gas as it screws the mixture up and down (it's always done this). The throttle is returning to its stop, and there don't appear to be any manifold leaks.

Could it just be that the engine isn't auto-adapting to having its driver's side bank of cylinders having working valves? There's only about a quarter tank of fuel in, and I know that Martyuk has said that they disable auto-adaption below a certain level.

Mine doesn't appear to have rockers with the die codes mentioned in the TSB, but it does have a distinct clack and a bit of a miss.

The rockers are I think quite badly worn - when you try to turn them on the shaft there's a distinct "notch" as they go over the part they'd normally sit on. I reckon it's time for new rockers and shafts - any recommendations?

I gave some folk access to the mod stick. You should now be able to nuke posts and spammers. Be careful with it, and remember backups get run at 3am :-)

I have a certain amount of drama unfold (popcorn in hand) on a couple of forums regarding advertising commercial services. There appears to be an opinion that forum users who run a business shouldn't advertise unless they buy an ad.

Rules are pretty ad-hoc in here, at least until I get my arse in gear to write a TOS for the site. In the meantime, if you run a business that provides a useful and relevant service that people in the Range Rover community would benefit from then go right ahead, as long as you're not annoying folk. If you do okay out of it, great. If you make an absolute mint out of touting your wares on here, a contribution to the running costs would be in order :-)

As always, the overarching rule is Don't Be An Arse.

Anyone up for this? I had the only P38 at it last year, it would be nice to get a wee squad of us up. Details on the website are sparse at the moment but usually on the Saturday it's the "proper" competitions (Tyro, RTV and CCV) and on the Sunday it's a free-for-all around the (quite large) field. There's camping on site, which might be a laugh.

I suspect that my NRVs are pretty tired, given how much air seems to leak out of the exhaust port when the compressor is off. It seems that we can't get new NRVs from anywhere. So, I wonder if we could use something like these with a groove turned in each hex to take a big fat O-ring to hold it firmly in the block?

In answer to a couple of questions on a deleted spam thread, flagging posts sends me a message because it triggers a bug that crashes the database when you try to delete the thread.

Flaskbb is advanced but simple enough to work on, nice to use, adaptable, mostly reliable, and full of all sorts of weird edge-case behaviour, which is of course why it's eminently suitable for a Range Rover forum.

Now, I'm off to unwedge the database again ;-)

My heatshields are all a bit loose and clattery having rusted around where the nuts are welded in. I was thinking about just taking the whole bloody lot off and wrapping the manifolds in exhaust wrap to keep the temperatures down. Any thoughts? Good idea, terrible idea? I'm wondering if it'll maybe quieten down some of the noise from around there too.

... and for once it's not because of the repair bills :-)

For quite a while now I've had a groaning noise under moderate load. It is just audible over all the other noise at about 40mph but becomes quite noticeable above 50mph, and is only present when I'm just on the throttle - not accelerating, not on a trailing throttle, but just "pressing on it" slightly. It's road speed related rather than engine speed related, and sounds almost like a wheel bearing except everyone else I've asked agrees that the bearing seems fine with no roughness or movement. Oh, going round corners doesn't affect the sound. Mild bumps do, a bit.

I did wonder if it was the nose bearing in the diff, but I'd expect if that was bad there would be enough movement to make the seal leak.

One other clue is that I can feel the vibration through the driver's footwell floor. I've almost convinced myself there's an errant socket stuck on top of the gearbox pressing into the transmission tunnel, or some damn thing :-D

How safe is it to drop off one or other propshaft and take the Rangie up to a decent speed? I'm concerned that might eat the viscous coupling in short order. Any other suggestions for how to pin down the noise would be welcome. I'll post an audio clip just as soon as I can work out how to get it off my phone.

I've seen a few that claim to give a firmer ride and better handling, but let's be honest we don't drive these things for the sporty handling and the ride is quite firm enough!