I've noticed that the gear lever on my thirstymatic V8 gets stiffer and stiffer to move as things warm up. It's kind of always done it but it's recently got worse. I gave the exposed bit of teleflex cable underneath a bit of a a clean, but it hasn't really helped.
Is it just a worn cable, or grease drying up somewhere, or a sign of annoying, difficult and expensive repairs in the box itself?
I know a few folk have a third lambda sensor fitted, so I'm looking for a suggestions on the best way to do it.
I've got a 0V/1V sensor and suitable sensor boss. My cunning plan is to disconnect the engine ECU, gearbox ECU and temperature senders (the one to the BECM), clean up the front of the passenger downpipe where I can get to it easily just above the existing lambda, drill a big hole, and weld the boss in with the MIG, without taking the Y-pipe off the vehicle.
What hideous consequence have I failed to foresee?
I used to be able to rotate the front wheels a little with steady pressure on the breaker bar, but now it seems to be locked absolutely solid. Wonder if that's what my front diff whine is...? Anyway, there's a guy on eBay selling viscous couplings with the flange on the front, and it looks like they've just been taken off by undoing the six bolts around the outside. Is it really that simple?
Would I be better taking the front propshaft off?
I was pretty surprised recently to find that I had almost no brakes at all, coming up to a busy roundabout at the bottom of a steep hill. A quick scan of the panel revealed the two brake warning lights on (mine's non-ETC).
The pump isn't running, but if I jumper pins 2 and 5 on the plug for the pressure switch it runs just fine. As an emergency measure I cracked open the relay and poked it with my finger to run the pump, and here's the weird bit - when it gets to a certain point, the relay pulls in by itself and then cuts off when the accumulator reaches pressure!
Is this a sign that the pressure switch has failed?
I need to do the front radius arm bushes, for which I'll probably hand them into my local indy who has the right tool to get them in (I've heard two-part "polybush" types aren't worth a damn, and proper ones are cheap).
If I take both arms off with the chassis on stands and the wheels chocked, how much of a cock of a job is it going to be to get it all lined up again?
I'm about to buy new discs and pads for mine. The front discs were replaced about a year and a half ago but there's a bit of a "wobble" under braking from the front passenger side (although that seems to be getting better) so even though there's quite a bit of meat on them I'm planning on changing them.
All the suppliers I've seem seem to sell grooved and drilled discs from EBC and Terrafirma, or Brtprt. Can anyone recommend a decent disc that's not all boy racer drilled and grooved Fast and Furious stuff which seems singularly pointless on something like a P38?
Also, EBC Greenstuff - worth it? EBC Ultimax ones seem to be cheaper than the "normal" Delphi pads and people seem to like them. Any thoughts?
I re-gapped my plugs the other day, to 0.7mm since I'm running on LPG. When I fitted them not long after I got the vehicle I left them at the standard 0.9mm, and I didn't really think that closing them up by a tiny fraction like that would help.
It's made a hell of a difference. I could hear straight away that it was idling better, and while the massive flat spot is still there between 2000 and 3000rpm on both petrol and LPG, it's a lot less pronounced. Definitely something worth checking.
Over the past wee while my V8 has developed an odd problem where if it's been switched off for a while it is very hard to start and will eventually splutter into life missing like hell with a big puff of oily petrolly-smelling exhaust fumes. It's like it's severely flooded. Starting on petrol only makes no odds.
If I pull the fuel pump relay I get the usual takes-ages-but-starts-on-gas thing. I ran around with no fuel pump for a bit and while needing it to crank for ten seconds was a bit of a pain in the arse it worked okay. After I replaced the fuel pump it started okay on petrol but started this flooding crap.
My heatshields are all a bit loose and clattery having rusted around where the nuts are welded in. I was thinking about just taking the whole bloody lot off and wrapping the manifolds in exhaust wrap to keep the temperatures down. Any thoughts? Good idea, terrible idea? I'm wondering if it'll maybe quieten down some of the noise from around there too.
I've seen a few that claim to give a firmer ride and better handling, but let's be honest we don't drive these things for the sporty handling and the ride is quite firm enough!
... and for once it's not because of the repair bills :-)
For quite a while now I've had a groaning noise under moderate load. It is just audible over all the other noise at about 40mph but becomes quite noticeable above 50mph, and is only present when I'm just on the throttle - not accelerating, not on a trailing throttle, but just "pressing on it" slightly. It's road speed related rather than engine speed related, and sounds almost like a wheel bearing except everyone else I've asked agrees that the bearing seems fine with no roughness or movement. Oh, going round corners doesn't affect the sound. Mild bumps do, a bit.
I did wonder if it was the nose bearing in the diff, but I'd expect if that was bad there would be enough movement to make the seal leak.
One other clue is that I can feel the vibration through the driver's footwell floor. I've almost convinced myself there's an errant socket stuck on top of the gearbox pressing into the transmission tunnel, or some damn thing :-D
How safe is it to drop off one or other propshaft and take the Rangie up to a decent speed? I'm concerned that might eat the viscous coupling in short order. Any other suggestions for how to pin down the noise would be welcome. I'll post an audio clip just as soon as I can work out how to get it off my phone.
I'm thinking about fitting a third lambda sensor just for the gas ECU to mine. A few folk seem to have zirconia sensors in an extra sensor bung welded to the Y-pipe.
Any particular recommendations, or just whatever cheap generic single-wire lambda sensor I can pick up? Would it be better with a heated sensor?
As the title says, I changed out the rocker shafts and rockers for some second-hand but good ones (although all the rockers have die numbers that suggest they should have been replaced, the hardened pushrod seats haven't sunk). Everything's back together, and on startup it revs to about 1800rpm when cold and idles at about 900-1000rpm when warm.
The fact that it does eventually screw down the idle suggests that the idle stepper is working. It does the same on gas and petrol, with a little hunting on gas as it screws the mixture up and down (it's always done this). The throttle is returning to its stop, and there don't appear to be any manifold leaks.
Could it just be that the engine isn't auto-adapting to having its driver's side bank of cylinders having working valves? There's only about a quarter tank of fuel in, and I know that Martyuk has said that they disable auto-adaption below a certain level.
Mine doesn't appear to have rockers with the die codes mentioned in the TSB, but it does have a distinct clack and a bit of a miss.
The rockers are I think quite badly worn - when you try to turn them on the shaft there's a distinct "notch" as they go over the part they'd normally sit on. I reckon it's time for new rockers and shafts - any recommendations?
... how important are they? I've got a set of manifolds with burst flexis (driver's side way worse than passenger side) and I was thinking about just cutting them out, bolting the manifolds to a scrap head, and welding in a straight bit of tube.
How much do they actually need to flex? If I use hex bolts to hold them on it's a damn sight easier to get to the one behind the steering column shaft.
I've come to the conclusion that (one of) my massive oil leaks is because of the O-ring on the end of the pressure relief valve. I've seen a kit with a circlip and O-ring for 20 quid on eBay which sounds like a bit of a pisstake. Does anyone know what size the O-ring should be, offhand?
I think all is not well with my R90E - the engine cut out as I turned into the end of the farm track this evening, and wouldn't restart on gas. Eventually it restarted on petrol, after a bit of farting and coughing.
Driving the gas solenoid on "by hand" resulted in a loud hiss that emptied the line almost immediately (only hissed for about a second). I'm pretty sure it shouldn't do that. I opened up the vapouriser but couldn't find any signs of split diaphragms or anything, but I strongly suspect the vapouriser has had it. It was leaking quite a bit of coolant, too.
I had a quick look on Tinley Tech's website but they seem to be out of stock of R90Es. They've got some others ranging from about 50 quid to a couple of hundred quid - is there much difference in performance in a closed-loop system? My local LPG fitter probably has multipoint vapourisers, which I guess are no good for my singlepoint install.
I'm about to do some front end surgery on mine, and while I'm in there I'm going to replace the front brake pads. Looking on Island 4x4, they appear to have a wide variety of pads for a fairly narrow range of prices, going from 13 quid for Britpart (probably not, thanks) up to £36.50 for EBC Green Stuff. Somewhere in the middle are the 17 quid Delphi pads I've always used (and can't really complain about), 21 quid EBC Ultimax ones and 30 quid Jurid ones (OEM for BMW according to my BMW-owning mate).
Anyone used any of them, particularly the EBC ones? Am I going to feel I got my 20 quid's worth fitting Green Stuff rather than Delphi?
I've got coolant dripping down somewhere on the passenger side near the front. I can't quite see where it's coming from, but it seems to be near a small bolt with a flanged head into the side of the block just above the sump. Is this a block drain or something? It seems too far down.
Any thoughts on where it might be coming from?
My GEMS 4.0 has started blowing to atmosphere from one of the driver's side cylinders. It's not quite as loud as Miah's was (yet!) but it's definitely doing it. Clearly I'm going to have to do the head gaskets, but since I actually need the car to run around in I need to get it done as quickly as possible. I've not really done one of these before (although I've changed heads before), so here's the list of daft questions:
Do I need to get the heads skimmed? Up until now it's been going pretty well without losing more than the expected amount of oil or water. I can probably find someone to check them for flatness nearby but they'll take a while to skim them.
When Miah and I leakdown tested it a few months back it was about 20% evenly across all eight cylinders. Is it worth dropping the sump off and doing the piston rings too? That starts to get into doing bigend and main bearings as well, I guess?
If I do pull the pistons out and stick new rings in, what do I need to do about the bores? I've read various things about using those three-legged grinding stones and bogbrush type hones to break the glaze, presumably that's pretty important if I disturb that part?