rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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It's that time of year again, and I've been quoted 950 quid to renew my insurance on a 250 quid vehicle.

Who's the current favourite for insurance?

While it's all a bit doom-and-gloom with more LPG places shutting down, it's good to be able to announce a new place to get it!

Simon at Angus Autogas - @GasMan on here - has got a tank in at his yard in Arbroath and is doing Ivanti gas at a pretty reasonable price. So, if you're up around the Dundee area, you've got an alternative to JGas again - it doesn't look like the Shell Eurogarage on Forfar Road is getting their pump fixed any time soon.

Simon's website is here, give him a shout if you are up here and need help with your gas system or if you need to fuel up.
https://angusautogas.co.uk/

I've got a rumbly noise, which sounds very much like it's from the passenger side when I'm sitting on that side and very much like it's coming from the driver's side when I'm sitting on that side. It goes quieter when I steer left, kind of making me think it's on the driver's side (right).

What about the bearings in the end of the axles that support the distal end of the half-shaft? I don't see them advertised as a replacement part anywhere so I assume they live a gentle and blameless life, would that be right?

I picked up another P38 from David Hallworth a couple of weeks ago. He'd modified the stereo to have an aux cable which worked, but my phone doesn't have a headphone socket. On my other P38 I'd modded the stereo to have a Bluetooth adaptor feeding the tape input, and this time round I took a couple of pictures.

This is a cheapy BT-002 Bluetooth board, a couple of quid off eBay. It takes 5V power and outputs stereo audio, and has a couple of extra inputs for controls and a telephone mike for using it as a handsfree thing. I put some heatshrink on it, so it wouldn't short to the metal, and stuck it down with a sticky pad.
BT-002 Bluetooth board

Unfortunately the closest to 5V on the board is 5.6V but there's 9V or so to power the audio board (which has been removed) so I fitted a 7805 regulator which you can see here with a couple of decoupling caps.
Regulator soldered to the board.

The audio leads are soldered to the board where the connections from the tape preamp would go, and when you select Tape then you get your audio from your phone.

The only other thing to do is insert a tape with the actual tape removed, or flick the plastic catch so the mechanism thinks there's a tape in.

Posted by Sloth at 21:40.

There isn't a prize or anything for it, I just thought it was cool :-)

A while back we had a massive influx of spam signups - thousands per day, and at one point thousands per hour - that broke the thing that emails out confirmation emails and password resets.

I just unbroke it, and it's launched a whole load of wedged emails out. If you've already had your account activated and now get an activation email, just ignore or delete it. You don't need to do anything.

There are a bunch of folk who haven't been manually activated, so I'll get them sorted out next.

Hi folks. The site's been subject to a couple of thousand signups a day for the past month and a bit, and it's done odd stuff to the registration email sender. I think it might be getting trapped as spam because it's flagging up as lots of traffic to spammy email addresses or something.

Anyway if you have been waiting for weeks to get on the site, I'm very sorry about that, and I hope it doesn't tarnish the rest of your experience.

As for the massive influx of bot accounts, we're either very popular or very unpopular, it's hard to say...

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/info-rave-manual-download.88857/

He's linked to a copy of rave on here! The link is dead just now because I've not entirely finished migrating servers but you can bet your best pint of Best that it will redirect to the signup page just as soon as I get a chance!

Will we break 30k before the site's fifth birthday, on the 29th?

I finally decided to pull the trigger on a cam kit for mine, only to find that the site I was going to buy from is no longer accepting orders - "closed until further notice". Given that they were 200 quid cheaper than the nearest competitor I'm a bit annoyed with myself that I didn't do it sooner.

So, fellow P38 victims^W enthusiasts, where's the best place to get a nice new high torque cam and all the associated bits now? And does anyone know what's happened to v8tuner.co.uk and whether they're likely to be back?

So, my life is about to get considerably busier :-D

I guess at least some folk on here must have children small enough to need a child seat, or indeed babies. What's the thoughts? What's good, what should I avoid?

I was playing about with Jitsi Meet and I've got an install of it running. Who fancies picking an evening to all jump on for a chat? If you're on a PC don't need to install anything, just make sure your camera and microphone works (headsets work just fine). There's an app for mobile users too, which seems to work okay. Unlike competing products that sound like an 80s ice lolly, they don't send all your info to China ;-)

While Miah and I had the engine out to do the core plugs, it looks like the torque converter's fallen off the gearbox a bit. Any hints on getting the splines lined up properly so I don't wreck the pump when I refit it?

I need a wee favour ;-) I have a synthesizer I need to get picked up. It's pretty big and heavy, and you'd definitely need a car - and what better to ask than a forum for folk with big and heavy cars?

My plan is that if someone can get it from the guy before the end of the month and stuff it in a corner until August, I can pick it up when I'm down in Bradford.

Over the past wee while my V8 has developed an odd problem where if it's been switched off for a while it is very hard to start and will eventually splutter into life missing like hell with a big puff of oily petrolly-smelling exhaust fumes. It's like it's severely flooded. Starting on petrol only makes no odds.

If I pull the fuel pump relay I get the usual takes-ages-but-starts-on-gas thing. I ran around with no fuel pump for a bit and while needing it to crank for ten seconds was a bit of a pain in the arse it worked okay. After I replaced the fuel pump it started okay on petrol but started this flooding crap.

Any thoughts?

What a straight-through mid pipe sounds like

This was just a cheapy off eBay, 30 quid. It weighs about the same as the Br*tp*rt middle silencer I took out :-D

All the usual suspects are showing them as "No Longer Available", and there's some comedian on eBay who is auctioning one with weeks to run and a starting bid of eight quid ;-)

I added Google Adsense adverts for not-logged-in users to the Alveston Red theme (the forum default). These are not shown to registered, logged-in users, only to Guest users (of which there seem to be quite a few, hello Russian bots!) a few weeks ago.

It's currently sitting at an estimated earning of 68p per month.

I used to be able to rotate the front wheels a little with steady pressure on the breaker bar, but now it seems to be locked absolutely solid. Wonder if that's what my front diff whine is...? Anyway, there's a guy on eBay selling viscous couplings with the flange on the front, and it looks like they've just been taken off by undoing the six bolts around the outside. Is it really that simple?

Would I be better taking the front propshaft off?

The other day I had a weird failure where one of the coil packs melted down. I was able to drive home on six cylinders, and fitted a spare one (thanks to David Hallworth for that!). Now the problem is that while it runs just fine on gas, it does not run on petrol at all. There's fuel at the rail, there are no faults logged, it just cuts out dead when switching to petrol. Plugging in the diags, everything reads perfectly. I can't think of anything that would take out just the injectors without showing other signs of distress.

Anyone ever run across this before?