So I was stuck in stationary traffic today with a friend in the car. I was talking about the air suspension and pressed the up button for it to lift. Instead of lifting the lights just sat there flashing with no movement at all.

A few moments later I noticed a burning plastic smell which was really strong and was causing my eyes to water. I thought maybe something to do with the air suspension had burned out or something was touching the engine/exhaust. After about 5 or 10 minutes the smell went away and an ABS fault message popped up.

I plugged the Nanocom in which reported "Brake switch failure". I took the brake light switch out and here's what I found:

It makes sense now why it didn't lift as it obviously thought the brakes were being pressed!

A while back I posted about clunking when accelerating. I thought I'd start a new thread as the symptoms have changed a bit.

Now I'm getting a clunk occasionally when I brake. It doesn't happen immediately when I press the brake only around less than 20mph. Secondly I can also hear clunks and a kind of spline clicking sound when accelerating from a stop and turning at the same time such as going around a roundabout.

I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from just somewhere on the front axle/front propshaft area. I've wiggled the u joints and couldn't feel any play on them. I'm not really sure what else I can do to try and pinpoint it further.

I'm wondering if it could be CV joints?

I'm trying to find the source of an oil leak near the passenger side head. I've replaced the rocker cover gasket and can't feel any leaks when I run my finger under the exhaust manifold side of the gasket. Has anyone else seen a similar leak?

Hi,

Does anyone know the size of the olive that's used on the fitting to the GEMS fuel rail.

Thanks.

I bought a new rear height sensor because the existing one wasn't giving a smooth reading throughout it's range. I picked ANR4687G from Island 4x4 - It came in a britpart box but has the dunlop mark on it.

I was expecting it to come with two mounting holes but instead it's got two threaded studs. My car is a 1995 model but I've got the adapter plates for the new height sensors (STC3594AA) shown below.

The instructions for the adapters say to attach the the sensor to the studs on the adapter, since the height sensors already have the studs I'm not sure how they mount

How do later cars mount the height sensors, using the studs on the height sensor? Has anyone else used the STC3593AA kit, how did you mount it?

Hi,

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should buy to refurbish my lightstone leather seats? There's no tears but they're all cracked and generally looking old so I'd like to bring them back to looking their best.

Thanks.

Hi all,
A few days ago I took the diff end of the front prop-shaft off to replace the pinion oil seal which was leaking. Ever since doing this I get a single clunk when I go from a closed throttle to accelerating again. I've checked the prop-shaft nuts are tight. I might just be imagining it but it also feels like there's slightly more vibration since doing this.

Could it be the u-joints? The front prop was new less than a year ago but I don't think I've greased it in all of that time. I need to buy a new grease cartridge for the gun later in the week and then I'll do that. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Thanks.

How close should the live heights be in relation to the target heights? I was looking at the EAS heights last night and two of my sensors were about 3 points from the target height and the other two were around 15 points from the target value. I calibrated the suspension with some blocks I made up a few months ago so I'm confident the stored heights are correct.

I was looking at the heights with the car stopped, doors closed and foot off the brake so I can't understand why it wouldn't be attempting to achieve the target heights? Is anyone else's like this?

Has anyone here refurbished the grey trim on the side panels that run along the transmission tunnel and up next to the HEVAC?

Mine are all scratched so I'm looking to paint them if I can figure out a suitable colour match.

Like a few people here my P38 has steering issues. The steering is vague in the centre and sometimes pulls slightly to either side depending on the camber of the road.

So far I've replaced/done:

• Steering box with a reconditioned one
• Steering shaft
• Track rod
• Drag link
• Front radius arm bushes
• Front panhard rod bushes
• Steering damper
• Ball joints
• Front wheel alignment completed

I'm not sure what else there is that could affect this. Anyone got anymore ideas what I can try?

Hi all,

I saw a link to this forum on lpgforum.co.uk from Gilbertd so I thought I'd join. I'm a member of a couple of other forums such as LZ,RR.net so I recognize quite a few of the names here.

I've got a 1995 P38 4.6 (originally a 4.0 but I changed it to a 4.6 when I rebuilt the engine) which I've had for a few years now. I've done most of the usual P38 jobs and stuff to refresh it like new steering/suspension components etc.

Jack