Gilbertd wrote:

You got home then, or are you still heading north? I'll post pictures of my new acquisition if you post some of yours.....

I ended up driving back up to the north east on the same day.

The car looks really nice externally, it's a real shame what has happened to the interior. That phoot is just from a quick pressure wash with no soap. Unfortunately the interior is in a much worse state than I expected. There is rust in the rear around the spare wheel well and wheel arches and almost every piece of wiring I look at has been chewed. I think that after having a good look over I'm going to take the engine and a few other bits and pieces for spares.

I'd be interested in some pictures and tips on how to fix and un gum the steering adjustment mechanism. One of mine refuses to lock into place without a lot of fiddling. I mostly never touch it so I've never bothered to take it apart.

The steering cowl also is able to rotate slightly which I've been meaning to look at.

I've sent Marty an email asking if he's available on Wednesday. I haven't had a reply but hopefully he is as that's the only good day for me this week.

It would be good to finally meet some others from the forum.

I've sent you a PM Marty.

I believe his workshop is in Swindon. I may be wrong.

I may be interested in the 2000. What is the interior like (in terms of door cards, seats)? Is it lightstone?

My door handle pulled out of the door today. The metal post that holds the roll pin has snapped which makes the handle unrepairable (as far as I can tell).

Does anyone here have a spare RHD drivers door handle available? I'm waiting for a few breakers to get back to me but most don't seem keen to sell just the drivers handle.

Gilbertd wrote:

so I could slide the bottom trim off (so it doesn't break the clips). Between us we got the top trim off but some of the clips still broke.

The bottom clips that look like this (BTR4428)?

I'm suprised that you found them fragile. I've had my bottom trim off about four times this year looking for leaks in the pollen filter area and haven't broken any yet. I just pull the trim up. Some of the clips come out of the bottom trim but they can be slid back into the rail. Unfortunately I am missing one that someone must have lost in the past. They appear to be unavailable.

The top trim clips are readily available for cheap which is nice. It's handy to have a sunroof to fit/remove them.

I bought X8R within the last few months and had no issues. I bought the compressor liner + seal + valve block kit.

Good point. Fron what I recall, the faults are sided correctly it's the live data/inputs that are wrong.

I would try the sensor first. I've had the same faults a few times. The first time it happened I also went down the theory of it being the ECU as all sensors measured similar resistance. It turned out to not be the case but at least I have a spare for the future now.

Try removing the sensor from the hub (let it hang without touching the chassis/anything metal) and see if the fault is still there. All of mine that have failed had the same fault but didn't indicate a fault when not touching the chassis. I'm guessing the sensor shorted to the case which gets detected through another sensor.

It's an LPGTech ECU.

When I was looking thiss morning the pressure was 1.3bar from overnight. As soon as the solenoid opens the pressure increases to 3bar. Even with the injectors firing the pressure doesn't reduce (after a few seconds whilst driving I have to switch back to petrol so the engine doesn't die). When I switch it over again 15 minutes later the injectors start firing and the pressure reduces quickly to the regular ~1.3bar value.

It certainly sounds like the same symptoms as you describe with a sticking gas inlet that frees up when the reducer is warm. What's the solution to that? Rebuild kit or replacement?

You didn't convert it but you did the tuning in on it a few years back.

As the weather has gotten colder I've noticed that the engine runs very rough when switching to LPG. Running rough is probably an understatement as it can't accelerate/rev at all when moving and immediately stalls at idle. The colder the temperature is the worse this is. Once the engine is fully warmed up it switches over fine and is generally fine the rest of the day.

Initially I assumed I had the changeover temperature set too low. I increased it to 65 degrees for a test but it was still no good. I originally had it set to 35 degrees - does that sound reasonable for the future?

It turns out that when it's cold the LPG pressure is being regulated around 3bar. Once the reducer warms up the pressure drops back down to the usual 1.3bar. I'm assuming something inside the reducer is gummed up (the spring?) so it can't regulate pressure. It's a Tomasetto AT13 XP Antartic. Does this sound like something a rebuild kit would cure or is it new reducer time?

Agree with the above. I've also blew the fuse by removing the connector at the Nanocom end. I leave it permanently connected to the Nanocom now.

Thanks for the suggestions. I found that I had the perfect tool. I forget what it's for (some garden equipment I think).

This is perhaps a stupid question but here goes...

I bought some new anti roll bar links but I'm unsure of how to fit them. The previous style that I removed had a hex in the end which made it easy to hold whilst tightening the nut. The new ones have nothing on the end but do have a flat on the joint that can be held with a 16mm spanner. Once it starts getting tightened the spanner ends up jammed between the ball joint and the bracket. The only thing I can think is a thinner spanner?

I need to buy a new centre exhaust section. I've read some stuff about people having to replace britpart sections after 2/3 years. I don't really want to have to do this again in a few years so I'm wondering if anyone has replaced theirs in the last few years?

Which brand did you go for and how is it holding up?

Found it.
BMR Manual

I recently went through a similar process of modifying my car which had the pipes on the axles. I went a flexi going straight from the body down to the caliper with some brackets to hold it in position in similar locations to standard on later cars. Here's what it looks like:

I found an picture of someone else changing the fuel pump which shows the ring around the tank that I'm looking for.

After a bit of searching I believe this is part number ESR3807. This isn't referenced in any P38 parts diagrams I've seen which is odd. The seal ring is ESR3806 and the locking ring is ESR3808 so it seems highly likely that this is the right part.

I dropped the tank to replace the fuel pump on my 2000 P38 (Only took 30 minutes to remove after the practice I had on my 95). When I went to reinstall the new fuel pump I found that the locking ring is too big to screw onto the threads of the tank. There's two options for the locking ring: the red plastic one for GEMS and the metal one for Bosch/Thor. I bought the metal ring (ESR3808) which is the same size as the old metal ring which came off.

I'm pretty confused at what could be wrong here. The old fuel pump appears to have some sort of collar (it ended up cracking when removing the old locking ring) which the new pump doesn't have. This collar is the perfect size and has threads to fit the metal locking ring. When I looked at pictures of WFX101100 and WFX101100 they don't appear to have this collar.

Old Pump With Collar:

Mysterious Plastic Collar:

New Fuel Pump:

Any ideas?