I saw a link to this forum on lpgforum.co.uk from Gilbertd so I thought I'd join. I'm a member of a couple of other forums such as LZ,RR.net so I recognize quite a few of the names here.
I've got a 1995 P38 4.6 (originally a 4.0 but I changed it to a 4.6 when I rebuilt the engine) which I've had for a few years now. I've done most of the usual P38 jobs and stuff to refresh it like new steering/suspension components etc.
Here's how many Vogue SEs were built.
The book says that the first Vogue SEs became available on 1st August 1998 (220 made). Then there was the second limited edition Vogue SE from December 1998 (105 vehicles - UK only). The third edition of Vogue SEs was produced at the end of the 1999 model year. The fourth edition was 2002 (400 vehicles).
Here's the section on the 2002 Vogue SEs (continued on the second picture including a breakdown):
I've got an L322 as well as the P38. I recently fixed the CD changer in it which wasn't detecting CDs. It involved taking the CD changer out and lubricating the gears inside which had seized. Will go into more detail if that's your problem.
Oddly enough I was talking to Marty about a P38 that caught fire and I had a feeling it was yours - I remember you were towing at the time. Such a shame :( That and a white one in the states going up in flames (I think around the same time?) made me a bit paranoid of my GEMS... I think I changed the two rubber fuel lines when I replaced the engine as a matter of course after that.
Did you change just the rubber bits of the pipe or the entire pipe? If you just changed the rubber bit what did you do about the crimps? I'm thinking of changing mine just to try and prevent it breaking and a fire starting.
I've replaced the condensed and drier without removing the bumper. I think I did the top pipe up from under the bonnet.
Looks like I'm going to be looking at it again soon as my air con has just ran out of gas this week. It lasted nearly two years so it's not that bad.
I've noticed a problem with logging in previously. I entered my username and password and clicked the button but didn't get any username and password incorrect message. After entering it three more times and not getting any messages the captcha showed up. Completing that allowed me to log in.
I've just logged out and tried again and it's still doing that. I don't see the captcha until the third or fourth login attempt and I can't login until I see it.
Can anyone point me in the direction of these solenoids which have both intake and exhaust?
Would you mind sharing some of that info Marty? I've written something to dump the EEPROM from the BECM but haven't gotten around to decoding any of the info yet as I'd have to stick it in the car, change each setting, read it again and look for the difference - that's the hardest part! I'm hoping to make something cheap to reprogram BECMs.
I was interested in reprogramming the Motorola on the board by replacing it with a non OTP chip but I'm guessing that quite a lot of the logic is also located in the gate-array chip next to it. Out of curiosity have you had a look to see what that chip is actually controlling?
Totally understand Marty. I would think the same.
I've not tried reading the ROM but yes you can put it into bootstrap mode. From there you send your program to it via serial and it will run. I might see if I can read the ROM later...
The one I have is a KA4.
I'd like to come too depending on the date.
I'd like someone to help me find where my exhaust manifold leak noise is coming from! I've replaced it multiple times but haven't managed to solve it yet. Apart from that I'm up for helping anyone else.
Nice to see more people from the North East. I'm near Darlington.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should buy to refurbish my lightstone leather seats? There's no tears but they're all cracked and generally looking old so I'd like to bring them back to looking their best.
Really sad news. RIP OB.
I ordered one and it came in a britpart box but had a dunlop marking on it.
Mine had a dunlop marking on the body just below where the arm enters. I recall seeing somewhere (maybe on the island site) that it comes in a britpart box but I can't seem to find it anymore.
On the subject of spark plugs, what gaps are people using on LPG? Some people seem to say the standard gap and some seem to say reduce by 0.2mm.
How close should the live heights be in relation to the target heights? I was looking at the EAS heights last night and two of my sensors were about 3 points from the target height and the other two were around 15 points from the target value. I calibrated the suspension with some blocks I made up a few months ago so I'm confident the stored heights are correct.
I was looking at the heights with the car stopped, doors closed and foot off the brake so I can't understand why it wouldn't be attempting to achieve the target heights? Is anyone else's like this?
I had another look at the values tonight, car was level and the values didn't seem to change much in the minute I spent looking at it. Looks better than last night but the rear right is fairly far out.