I commanded it to run continuously from the BECM and gave it a helping hand and it started moving again. I've also given it a spray but not sure if it made much difference since it looks sealed. Finally I cleaned the connection just in case there was some corrosion there.
Once it was running the drivers side was parking correctly but the passenger side was parking in the middle of the light, so I took off the arm an re-aligned it. Makes sense since there's only one park switch in the drivers side I believe.
My left hand side headlight wiper has stopped half way through its travel and doesn't move anymore. Drivers side still works fine.
Has anyone seen similar and fixed theirs?
On the subject of spark plugs, what gaps are people using on LPG? Some people seem to say the standard gap and some seem to say reduce by 0.2mm.
How close should the live heights be in relation to the target heights? I was looking at the EAS heights last night and two of my sensors were about 3 points from the target height and the other two were around 15 points from the target value. I calibrated the suspension with some blocks I made up a few months ago so I'm confident the stored heights are correct.
I was looking at the heights with the car stopped, doors closed and foot off the brake so I can't understand why it wouldn't be attempting to achieve the target heights? Is anyone else's like this?
I had another look at the values tonight, car was level and the values didn't seem to change much in the minute I spent looking at it. Looks better than last night but the rear right is fairly far out.
The front two sensors are fairly new too - around 2 months old. They were britpart though... The rear sensors are probably original.
I should probably say that there's nothing particularly wrong with my system. It works fine and never gives any faults. I do have two issues though. The first is that if I leave the car for a short amount of time and get back in when the car is restarted the air suspension will sometimes be down at access height and sometimes up at high ride height. I kind of assumed this would be due to dodgy height sensors. The car isn't dropping overnight so it's not a leak.
The second issue is the ride is fairly rough. Shocks are new boges but the ride is still terrible on anything but really smooth roads. RAVE says bad calibration can cause this so I further suspected the height sensors.
Captured some data today with the Nanocom on my drive to work.
First thing I noticed is that in my 25 mile drive the compressor ran for 87% of the time which is obviously bad. The valve block was refurbed recently. On the motorway section the ride heights were fairly constant but before and after they look a bit erractic. I can possibly explain the start ones due to going over speed bumps but theres nothing at the end that is that rough.
Another graph showing the difference of each valve from it's target height.
I recorded it to the SD card. I think you can record any of the screens with the little save symbol.
As Orangebean said BBS has a tool to view the data or you can just import it to excel. For some reason it's seperated by semi colons but you can still import to excel by opening a blank document. Then in the data menu there is an import from text wizard that will allow you to choose the delimiter.
I've bought a new pair of height sensors for the rear.
Took another look at the heights once I'd pulled into the driveway today since it was feeling high since I'd pulled into the street. The heights shown are pretty much high profile even though only the standard light was illuminated. I might try logging the heights with the nanocom on my way to work tomorrow.
Thanks. Your pictures loaded instantly for me.
When I was recording the CSV file, the entire screen showed a progress bar and a stop recording button so I made sure to click that and give it a few seconds before unplugging the nanocom.
Rear height sensors have arrived. I've also bought a compressor refurb kit. I did it maybe two years ago now so I figured it couldn't hurt to do it again.
IIRC there's a dialogue box that comes up to confirm recording stopped as well.
Yep I think I remember seeing that.
In case anyone cares the britpart height sensors appear to be branded Dunlop which is a good I guess.
Has anyone else fitted one of these height sensor kits for the < 97MY? Part numbers STC3593AA and STC3594AA.
Here are the instructions. Step two says to mount the height sensors on the adapter bracket studs - the problem with that is that the height sensors themselves have studs already in them! If you put the studs on the bracket through the chassis holes then the holes for the height sensor studs are obstructed. I then saw a post on RR.net about the kit and that guy took the height sensor studs out. I did that and the holes on my height sensor don't line up. Am I being stupid or are Britpart total retards?
The old sensor broke upon removing so I have no suspension until I figure out what to do...
I had to remove the studs (tapped them out with a hammer and small socket) and then file the holes out slightly so they fit the mounting studs.
The car sits nice and level now!
I bought a new rear height sensor because the existing one wasn't giving a smooth reading throughout it's range. I picked ANR4687G from Island 4x4 - It came in a britpart box but has the dunlop mark on it.
I was expecting it to come with two mounting holes but instead it's got two threaded studs. My car is a 1995 model but I've got the adapter plates for the new height sensors (STC3594AA) shown below.
The instructions for the adapters say to attach the the sensor to the studs on the adapter, since the height sensors already have the studs I'm not sure how they mount
How do later cars mount the height sensors, using the studs on the height sensor? Has anyone else used the STC3593AA kit, how did you mount it?
So I was stuck in stationary traffic today with a friend in the car. I was talking about the air suspension and pressed the up button for it to lift. Instead of lifting the lights just sat there flashing with no movement at all.
A few moments later I noticed a burning plastic smell which was really strong and was causing my eyes to water. I thought maybe something to do with the air suspension had burned out or something was touching the engine/exhaust. After about 5 or 10 minutes the smell went away and an ABS fault message popped up.
I plugged the Nanocom in which reported "Brake switch failure". I took the brake light switch out and here's what I found:
It makes sense now why it didn't lift as it obviously thought the brakes were being pressed!
I've just had a problem with the car leaning to one side. Upon looking at the heights on the nanocom the rear sensors were showing much different counts than they should be compared to the stored counts.
I put the standard height calibration blocks in and the rear sensors were showing over 130 counts at standard height which is outside the range the EAS allows.
I took off the harness from the STC3593AA kit shown above and one of the pins to the height sensor was wet and corroded. It looks like water has been getting into the connector or tracking down from the top connector and going onto that pin. After cleaning the pins/connectors off both sides are now back to their expected values and the car sits level again.
Has anyone else seen anything like this?
Any suggestions where to get quality stuff from? I bought some 8mm from Pirtek (it's right next door to where I work and needed it quickly) and it's already showing signs of cracking.
As Marty said I had a working prototype last year that would filter the incoming data then only transmit to the BECM if it passed some checks.
I had it running in my car for a while then I moved house and forgot about it.
I saw a link to this forum on lpgforum.co.uk from Gilbertd so I thought I'd join. I'm a member of a couple of other forums such as LZ,RR.net so I recognize quite a few of the names here.
I've got a 1995 P38 4.6 (originally a 4.0 but I changed it to a 4.6 when I rebuilt the engine) which I've had for a few years now. I've done most of the usual P38 jobs and stuff to refresh it like new steering/suspension components etc.
Here's how many Vogue SEs were built.