It's an LPGTech ECU.
When I was looking thiss morning the pressure was 1.3bar from overnight. As soon as the solenoid opens the pressure increases to 3bar. Even with the injectors firing the pressure doesn't reduce (after a few seconds whilst driving I have to switch back to petrol so the engine doesn't die). When I switch it over again 15 minutes later the injectors start firing and the pressure reduces quickly to the regular ~1.3bar value.
It certainly sounds like the same symptoms as you describe with a sticking gas inlet that frees up when the reducer is warm. What's the solution to that? Rebuild kit or replacement?
You didn't convert it but you did the tuning in on it a few years back.
As the weather has gotten colder I've noticed that the engine runs very rough when switching to LPG. Running rough is probably an understatement as it can't accelerate/rev at all when moving and immediately stalls at idle. The colder the temperature is the worse this is. Once the engine is fully warmed up it switches over fine and is generally fine the rest of the day.
Initially I assumed I had the changeover temperature set too low. I increased it to 65 degrees for a test but it was still no good. I originally had it set to 35 degrees - does that sound reasonable for the future?
It turns out that when it's cold the LPG pressure is being regulated around 3bar. Once the reducer warms up the pressure drops back down to the usual 1.3bar. I'm assuming something inside the reducer is gummed up (the spring?) so it can't regulate pressure. It's a Tomasetto AT13 XP Antartic. Does this sound like something a rebuild kit would cure or is it new reducer time?
Agree with the above. I've also blew the fuse by removing the connector at the Nanocom end. I leave it permanently connected to the Nanocom now.
Thanks for the suggestions. I found that I had the perfect tool. I forget what it's for (some garden equipment I think).
This is perhaps a stupid question but here goes...
I bought some new anti roll bar links but I'm unsure of how to fit them. The previous style that I removed had a hex in the end which made it easy to hold whilst tightening the nut. The new ones have nothing on the end but do have a flat on the joint that can be held with a 16mm spanner. Once it starts getting tightened the spanner ends up jammed between the ball joint and the bracket. The only thing I can think is a thinner spanner?
I need to buy a new centre exhaust section. I've read some stuff about people having to replace britpart sections after 2/3 years. I don't really want to have to do this again in a few years so I'm wondering if anyone has replaced theirs in the last few years?
Which brand did you go for and how is it holding up?
I recently went through a similar process of modifying my car which had the pipes on the axles. I went a flexi going straight from the body down to the caliper with some brackets to hold it in position in similar locations to standard on later cars. Here's what it looks like:
I found an picture of someone else changing the fuel pump which shows the ring around the tank that I'm looking for.
After a bit of searching I believe this is part number ESR3807. This isn't referenced in any P38 parts diagrams I've seen which is odd. The seal ring is ESR3806 and the locking ring is ESR3808 so it seems highly likely that this is the right part.
I dropped the tank to replace the fuel pump on my 2000 P38 (Only took 30 minutes to remove after the practice I had on my 95). When I went to reinstall the new fuel pump I found that the locking ring is too big to screw onto the threads of the tank. There's two options for the locking ring: the red plastic one for GEMS and the metal one for Bosch/Thor. I bought the metal ring (ESR3808) which is the same size as the old metal ring which came off.
I'm pretty confused at what could be wrong here. The old fuel pump appears to have some sort of collar (it ended up cracking when removing the old locking ring) which the new pump doesn't have. This collar is the perfect size and has threads to fit the metal locking ring. When I looked at pictures of WFX101100 and WFX101100 they don't appear to have this collar.
Old Pump With Collar:
Mysterious Plastic Collar:
New Fuel Pump:
The manual says to turn back one quarter of a turn to re-engage.
Thanks. That link is interesting. I hadn't considered that I could make the flexi's up myself. Do you need any special tools to be able be able to assemble those fittings yourself?
Yes, they were pretty rusty. The channel the pipes run in was full of mud and dust, the picture is after cleaning them out.
I'm thinking about replacing my rear brake lines. I've got an early car with the brake lines that drop down in the centre of the axle. I modified it a few years ago so that I could fit a dual exit exhaust but I've never been particularly happy with the tidiness of it. With the tank out now is the opportunity to fix it.
I'm wondering about moving to a similar setup to the 97> cars where the brake pipes run to each side. In the standard system I believe it routes something like this: hard line on body -> flexi -> chassis mounted hard line -> flexi to caliper. Is there a reason I couldn't just go from the caliper straight to the body hard line with a custom flexi (and appropriate mounts to keep it all in the right place)? The brackets for later cars are unavailable anyway so if I do it it would have to be custom brackets.
My fuel pump has given up so I'm going to be dropping the tank to replace it shortly. My car is a GEMS and there doesn't seem to be any reputable brands available. The options I can see are:
All of which don't seem great. LAP is the most expensive but is entirely unknown to me. Another option I've read about on RR.net is just replacing the pump itself with an Airtex E3270 but that involves opening the sender unit and possibly some modification. I'd prefer to replace the level sender too so that's a factor against the Airtex. Has anyone purchased one recently? What did you go for?
I've read that the fuel lines could be rusty so I'd like to replace those too whilst I'm in there. Has anyone got any advice on that? Did you make your own lines or buy them?
I've been trying to track down a leak into the cable channel by the drivers front door (next to the BECM). After a soaking with the hose I've found that the water is getting under the door seal and then dripping off into the channel containing the cables.
The seal is in good condition, pushed fully against the metal and is mounted correctly so I'm not sure how it's managing to get past the seal. New seals seem to no longer be available. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? I guess glue or sealant is an option but I'd like to be able to remove it again in the future if needed so I'm not sure what type to use.
I had a similar leak that came from the top hose. The clamp wasn't sealing perfectly so when pressurised it would drip down onto the valley gasket and flow back and leak down between the block and bell housing. I initially thought it had to be the head gaskets as I couldn't see how water would get so far back.
I understood that to mean it will only wake the BECM when the switch state changes since it says edge triggered.
Tis the season for ABS faults apparently. I have the same fault on my WABCO D type.
I measured my sensor resistances and they are pretty much the same as yours - around 0.95kOhms.
I think the Nanocom/ECU only displays the faults after they've occurred a few times. I cleared the fault with the Nanocom then cycled the ignition. Even though the dash was saying "ABS Fault" and "Traction Fault" no faults were reported by the Nanocom. After a couple of ignition cycles the fault reappeared on the Nanocom.
My next step was going to be getting another ECU. I know Marty repairs them but they are showing as out of stock so I need to contact him to see what the timescales would be like.
I thought I would make my own thread following on from the few posts in the "exhaust manifold flexis" thread where I was trying to find the source of a metallic ticking sound in my engine.
To reiterate the problem is a ticking sound that I can hear which appears to be coming from the right side of the engine. It's related to engine load rather than RPM - for example if I'm traveling up a hill with the torque converter locked pressing the throttle more will make the ticking sound louder without the RPM changing. This is why I originally thought it was an exhaust leak.
Here's two videos:
Here's the things I've tried so far:
I can't understand how it would get louder with more engine load without it being an exhaust leak.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated? It's driving me mad not being able to find it 😃