Gilbertd wrote:
Nanocom gets confused with which corner is faulty on the Wabco D system and doesn't report the correct one.
Front/Right (Live Value box) = Front Right (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Right (Live Value box) = Front Left (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Right (vehicle sensor)
Front/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Left (vehicle sensor)Although Front Right is the only one it does get correct. Try unplugging it and see if the fault is the same or if it reports 2 faulty sensors.
Nanocom is only incorrect in the live data section (sensor voltages - not sure about wheel speed). It's correct for the fault codes. It's still worth unplugging like you say though.
Harv wrote:
Are you sure you can just swap sumps? I know the front cover is different, but maybe not where it bolts up to the sump. Also, the Thor sump uses more bolts at the back but again maybe you can ignore them.
I believe the swap has been done by a few people on rr.net and is mentioned on this forum here. I don't believe the front cover is different (in terms of the front cover -> sump interface) between thor and gems. There are two extra bolts that go into the sump where the inspection plate is fitted on GEMS so I need to see how that will work.
I've been thinking the same thing recently. In my area there's a single station selling at 90.9p (North East). If they decide to stop selling LPG or increase the price much more then I may consider removing the system as there would nowhere to fill up without a huge detour.
Gilbertd wrote:
I was there recently and filled up at one (not far off the M6 either) that only did LPG (no other fuels), 4 pumps, 6 huge tanks and 73p a litre.
Sounds like "Supergaz" on Washwood Heath Rd? I like that station. They open late and even fill your car for you so you don't even need to get out.
I took my front cover off over the weekend to address some oil leaks. I just took the crank pulley bolt out using an impact so can't comment on other methods of holding the crank. The hardest part so far has been cleaning off the old front cover gasket material.
Since the sump also has to come off I'm planning replace the gems sump with a thor to take advantage of the rubber gasket.
Once a few more parts turn up I can get started with reassembly.
Gilbertd wrote:
You got home then, or are you still heading north? I'll post pictures of my new acquisition if you post some of yours.....
I ended up driving back up to the north east on the same day.
The car looks really nice externally, it's a real shame what has happened to the interior. That phoot is just from a quick pressure wash with no soap. Unfortunately the interior is in a much worse state than I expected. There is rust in the rear around the spare wheel well and wheel arches and almost every piece of wiring I look at has been chewed. I think that after having a good look over I'm going to take the engine and a few other bits and pieces for spares.
I'd be interested in some pictures and tips on how to fix and un gum the steering adjustment mechanism. One of mine refuses to lock into place without a lot of fiddling. I mostly never touch it so I've never bothered to take it apart.
The steering cowl also is able to rotate slightly which I've been meaning to look at.
I've sent Marty an email asking if he's available on Wednesday. I haven't had a reply but hopefully he is as that's the only good day for me this week.
It would be good to finally meet some others from the forum.
I've sent you a PM Marty.
I believe his workshop is in Swindon. I may be wrong.
I may be interested in the 2000. What is the interior like (in terms of door cards, seats)? Is it lightstone?
My door handle pulled out of the door today. The metal post that holds the roll pin has snapped which makes the handle unrepairable (as far as I can tell).
Does anyone here have a spare RHD drivers door handle available? I'm waiting for a few breakers to get back to me but most don't seem keen to sell just the drivers handle.
Gilbertd wrote:
so I could slide the bottom trim off (so it doesn't break the clips). Between us we got the top trim off but some of the clips still broke.
The bottom clips that look like this (BTR4428)?
I'm suprised that you found them fragile. I've had my bottom trim off about four times this year looking for leaks in the pollen filter area and haven't broken any yet. I just pull the trim up. Some of the clips come out of the bottom trim but they can be slid back into the rail. Unfortunately I am missing one that someone must have lost in the past. They appear to be unavailable.
The top trim clips are readily available for cheap which is nice. It's handy to have a sunroof to fit/remove them.
I bought X8R within the last few months and had no issues. I bought the compressor liner + seal + valve block kit.
Good point. Fron what I recall, the faults are sided correctly it's the live data/inputs that are wrong.
I would try the sensor first. I've had the same faults a few times. The first time it happened I also went down the theory of it being the ECU as all sensors measured similar resistance. It turned out to not be the case but at least I have a spare for the future now.
Try removing the sensor from the hub (let it hang without touching the chassis/anything metal) and see if the fault is still there. All of mine that have failed had the same fault but didn't indicate a fault when not touching the chassis. I'm guessing the sensor shorted to the case which gets detected through another sensor.
It's an LPGTech ECU.
When I was looking thiss morning the pressure was 1.3bar from overnight. As soon as the solenoid opens the pressure increases to 3bar. Even with the injectors firing the pressure doesn't reduce (after a few seconds whilst driving I have to switch back to petrol so the engine doesn't die). When I switch it over again 15 minutes later the injectors start firing and the pressure reduces quickly to the regular ~1.3bar value.
It certainly sounds like the same symptoms as you describe with a sticking gas inlet that frees up when the reducer is warm. What's the solution to that? Rebuild kit or replacement?
You didn't convert it but you did the tuning in on it a few years back.
As the weather has gotten colder I've noticed that the engine runs very rough when switching to LPG. Running rough is probably an understatement as it can't accelerate/rev at all when moving and immediately stalls at idle. The colder the temperature is the worse this is. Once the engine is fully warmed up it switches over fine and is generally fine the rest of the day.
Initially I assumed I had the changeover temperature set too low. I increased it to 65 degrees for a test but it was still no good. I originally had it set to 35 degrees - does that sound reasonable for the future?
It turns out that when it's cold the LPG pressure is being regulated around 3bar. Once the reducer warms up the pressure drops back down to the usual 1.3bar. I'm assuming something inside the reducer is gummed up (the spring?) so it can't regulate pressure. It's a Tomasetto AT13 XP Antartic. Does this sound like something a rebuild kit would cure or is it new reducer time?
Agree with the above. I've also blew the fuse by removing the connector at the Nanocom end. I leave it permanently connected to the Nanocom now.
Thanks for the suggestions. I found that I had the perfect tool. I forget what it's for (some garden equipment I think).
This is perhaps a stupid question but here goes...
I bought some new anti roll bar links but I'm unsure of how to fit them. The previous style that I removed had a hex in the end which made it easy to hold whilst tightening the nut. The new ones have nothing on the end but do have a flat on the joint that can be held with a 16mm spanner. Once it starts getting tightened the spanner ends up jammed between the ball joint and the bracket. The only thing I can think is a thinner spanner?
I need to buy a new centre exhaust section. I've read some stuff about people having to replace britpart sections after 2/3 years. I don't really want to have to do this again in a few years so I'm wondering if anyone has replaced theirs in the last few years?
Which brand did you go for and how is it holding up?