As the weather has gotten colder I've noticed that the engine runs very rough when switching to LPG. Running rough is probably an understatement as it can't accelerate/rev at all when moving and immediately stalls at idle. The colder the temperature is the worse this is. Once the engine is fully warmed up it switches over fine and is generally fine the rest of the day.

Initially I assumed I had the changeover temperature set too low. I increased it to 65 degrees for a test but it was still no good. I originally had it set to 35 degrees - does that sound reasonable for the future?

It turns out that when it's cold the LPG pressure is being regulated around 3bar. Once the reducer warms up the pressure drops back down to the usual 1.3bar. I'm assuming something inside the reducer is gummed up (the spring?) so it can't regulate pressure. It's a Tomasetto AT13 XP Antartic. Does this sound like something a rebuild kit would cure or is it new reducer time?

This is perhaps a stupid question but here goes...

I bought some new anti roll bar links but I'm unsure of how to fit them. The previous style that I removed had a hex in the end which made it easy to hold whilst tightening the nut. The new ones have nothing on the end but do have a flat on the joint that can be held with a 16mm spanner. Once it starts getting tightened the spanner ends up jammed between the ball joint and the bracket. The only thing I can think is a thinner spanner?

I need to buy a new centre exhaust section. I've read some stuff about people having to replace britpart sections after 2/3 years. I don't really want to have to do this again in a few years so I'm wondering if anyone has replaced theirs in the last few years?

Which brand did you go for and how is it holding up?

I dropped the tank to replace the fuel pump on my 2000 P38 (Only took 30 minutes to remove after the practice I had on my 95). When I went to reinstall the new fuel pump I found that the locking ring is too big to screw onto the threads of the tank. There's two options for the locking ring: the red plastic one for GEMS and the metal one for Bosch/Thor. I bought the metal ring (ESR3808) which is the same size as the old metal ring which came off.

I'm pretty confused at what could be wrong here. The old fuel pump appears to have some sort of collar (it ended up cracking when removing the old locking ring) which the new pump doesn't have. This collar is the perfect size and has threads to fit the metal locking ring. When I looked at pictures of WFX101100 and WFX101100 they don't appear to have this collar.

Old Pump With Collar:

Mysterious Plastic Collar:

New Fuel Pump:

Any ideas?

My fuel pump has given up so I'm going to be dropping the tank to replace it shortly. My car is a GEMS and there doesn't seem to be any reputable brands available. The options I can see are:

• Britpart
• Allmakes
• LAP?

All of which don't seem great. LAP is the most expensive but is entirely unknown to me. Another option I've read about on RR.net is just replacing the pump itself with an Airtex E3270 but that involves opening the sender unit and possibly some modification. I'd prefer to replace the level sender too so that's a factor against the Airtex. Has anyone purchased one recently? What did you go for?

I've read that the fuel lines could be rusty so I'd like to replace those too whilst I'm in there. Has anyone got any advice on that? Did you make your own lines or buy them?

Hi all,

I've been trying to track down a leak into the cable channel by the drivers front door (next to the BECM). After a soaking with the hose I've found that the water is getting under the door seal and then dripping off into the channel containing the cables.

The seal is in good condition, pushed fully against the metal and is mounted correctly so I'm not sure how it's managing to get past the seal. New seals seem to no longer be available. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? I guess glue or sealant is an option but I'd like to be able to remove it again in the future if needed so I'm not sure what type to use.

I thought I would make my own thread following on from the few posts in the "exhaust manifold flexis" thread where I was trying to find the source of a metallic ticking sound in my engine.

To reiterate the problem is a ticking sound that I can hear which appears to be coming from the right side of the engine. It's related to engine load rather than RPM - for example if I'm traveling up a hill with the torque converter locked pressing the throttle more will make the ticking sound louder without the RPM changing. This is why I originally thought it was an exhaust leak.

Here's two videos:

• next to the manifold
• Underneath the car being held on the brakes

Here's the things I've tried so far:

• Listened around the manifold area using a hose - couldn't hear any leaks.
• Smoke tested the exhaust - no leaks found.
• Checked the CPS reluctor ring teeth and flex plate - nothing found.

I can't understand how it would get louder with more engine load without it being an exhaust leak.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated? It's driving me mad not being able to find it 😃

I noticed today that my gearbox oil cooler pipe has been rubbing on the crank pulley and is about to be worn through. I recently replaced this pipe as it was leaking. When I replaced both pipes I also fitted the clamp that holds the metal section of the line under the engine mount as it was missing. I didn't have any problems with it rubbing previously but I was running without the clamp supporting the pipes for a long time.

I don't see any clips on the bottom of the fan shroud to hold the pipe so I'm wondering if I've routed it wrong.

Here are some images (ignore the coolant, oil and serpentine belt slightly misaligned - i've been changing some hoses when I noticed it). It's not as close as it looks in the pictures but obviously close enough to get pushed into the pulley sometimes.

Does anyone know if the surrounds for the window switchpacks different sizes depending on VIN/age? I've fitted a new centre console which is a newer leather one and now my window switchpack doesn't fit as it is slightly wider than the gap.

Looking at the parts catalogue I see:
AWR1081 - ASH GREY (MOULDING-CENTRE CONSOLE SWITCH PACK ASH GREY) [ - (V)WA410481 ]
FWJ100020LNF - ASH GREY (MOULDING-CENTRE CONSOLE SWITCH PACK ASH GREY) [ (V)XA410482 - ]

so there must be some kind of difference? There's no difference in part numbers for the actual switch electronics, just the surround that covers it.

I'm not sure how to actually identify the different variants so I can pick up the correct one from a breaker on eBay. They all seem to be listed as being compatible as 94-02.

The pedal travel on my P38 seems to have suddenly changed, the top half of the pedal travel does almost nothing. This seems to have happened suddenly after being parked up for a week. The pedal doesn't sink down and if I stamp hard ABS activates as normal.

I've checked and the brake fluid level hasn't changed. I've also checked the hard brake lines and flexis but can't find any leaks. The ABS pump is working normally and cuts in after 3-4 pedal presses. Discs/pads are new all around from a few months ago.

I'm planning to bleed it again per RAVE but I'm concerned that this just appeared out of nowhere with no obvious cause. Anyone got any thoughts on what could cause this?

I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to stick my a-post door seal back on. The seal on the drivers side has come away from the a-post/roof pillar join. The seal seems to have shrunk so it no longer matches the shape, unfortunately they are no longer available. It's number 3 in the below diagram / ALR6938

I bought some Evo Stik Impact Adhesive today but it didn't seem very sticky. It barely held up the roof section never mind the the bit that needs to stretch round to the a-pillar.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

On my car the O2 sensor connector on the drivers side doesn't reach the holder on the side of the sump. I believe that I routed the harness incorrectly when I had the engine out. It's not causing any issues but I'd like to fix it whilst I'm fiddling in that area. RAVE has a "harness routing" section in the electrical troubleshooting manual but it's not very helpful.

Does anyone have any pictures or a description of how the drivers side O2 sensor/starter branch of the harness should be routed? Does it go over the engine mount or under it? I don't see any clips that hold it so I may be missing them too.

I was thinking yesterday that the P38 has been pretty reliable recently and it has now decided to reward me with a coolant leak. Not just a normal coolant leak from a hose, it's coming from the around the bottom 3rd head stud on the passenger side bank.

The engine was fully rebuilt a few years ago with top hat liners, ARP head studs, new gaskets etc. As far as I know there's no coolant passages from the block to the head in the middle so it must mean I've got a cracked block or a cracked head? I can't seem to find much evidence of Rover V8s with cracked heads. I've seen cracked blocks before but I thought generally they cracked behind the liner which lets coolant into the cylinder rather than between the block face/head gasket.

Has anyone seen anything similar?

I'm getting water pooling in the lower area behind the right rear light after heavy rain. I can't seem to find the source.

I'm only getting water in on the right rear, left rear is completely dry. I'm not getting much in the boot but there is a trickle coming from the right rear area.

So far I've:

• replaced the rear tailgate seal (including bending the flange outwards)
• removed the rear light, checked seal and refitted. The seal seems to only come as part of the light so I couldn't replace that.
• checked sunroof drain - it's clear.

Does anyone have any clues what to check next?

I noticed today that I barely get any air out of the two outer face vents. I don't think it's leaking out of the joints as I resealed them when I was last in there, but it's definitely something I shall check shortly.

Going through the distribution settings I noticed that when I select the face vents setting I still get most of the air coming out of the feet vents and a little bit out of the middle two face vents.

I've got no faults and I've tried a recalibration of the motors which made no obvious difference.

For the third time this year I've noticed my car not sitting level. Upon noticing this I put the calibration blocks in the bump stops and both times one sensor (different corners each time) was much lower than the other side. Disconnecting the sensor shows that the pins have some green corrosion on them on both the male/height sensor side and the female/body side. I can clean it and that will fix the reading but doesn't solve the root of the problem of why this keeps happening.

Since my car is an early car with the later style height sensors I have a short harness that connects between the height sensor connector and the body connector in the wheel well (see here for a picture of the harness). I assume the problem is something to do with the quality of this harness and the sealing of the connector not being quite right.

Has anyone else had this problem? The only thing I can think to do is to remake the short harness myself with new good quality connectors and pins unless anyone has any better ideas?

My audi heater core isn't getting hot at idle. After leaving the engine to idle for 15 minutes the heater core temperature sensor was only reading 25 degrees. I've got the feed from the engine going through the LPG vapouriser into the core and back out. Unfortunately it was so long ago that I can't remember whether the top or bottom pipe is the feed or return.

A few questions. Does it make a difference which side is the feed and which is return? Which is best?

Do you have the temperature sensor attached to the rubber pipe or somewhere else?

In addition I've got a leak from the pipe connections to the core. I have to keep going in and nipping the jubilee clips up every few months. What style of clips have you guys used? Whilst I'm on changing the clips I'm also wondering if it's worth replumbing it so the vapouriser is fed from the return rather than the feed?

Thanks

My left hand side headlight wiper has stopped half way through its travel and doesn't move anymore. Drivers side still works fine.

Has anyone seen similar and fixed theirs?

I've just replaced my ABS modulator after fitting Russell's BMR kit. Now I'm having difficulty bleeding the system.

After following the bleeding procedure the ABS pump now just runs continuously and never stops, the pedal also goes all the way to the floor and barely stops the car. The reservior level doesn't seem to go down at all when the pump is running.

I'll try the bleed procerure again in the morning but is there anything obvious I'm missing?

Thanks.

I was reading this post about aligning the steering box and I have a couple of questions.

With the steering wheel centred my car drives straight but the steering box alignment is slightly out (It does seem to feel like you have to turn it more in one direction than the other for the same amount of movement). If I'm understanding that post correctly to fix this I need to first disconnect the steering UJ from the box and align the wheel so that the wheel and box are centred, then adjust the drag link so the car drives straight with the wheel and box still centred. Is that correct?