Gilbertd wrote:

Most common place is the two short S shaped metal pipes at the back. They rust away quite nicely without you realising.

are those the hard lines at the rear axle that go to the left and right flexible lines to the calipers?

checked the fluid per the workshop manual and the fluid was low.

topped it off and will see if the Low Fluid message goes away.

now i need to track down where the leak is.

tanis8472 wrote:

After turning ignition on and waiting for the red 'brake' light to go out?

like a dumbass, i didn't look at the RAVE unitl now.

you are correct. i'll check the fluid per the manual and report back.

thanks for the help.

i can see the level is between the high and low marks on the reservoir.

then i took off the cap and looked from the top down to make sure i was seeing things correctly.

hmm. are you referring to the switch on the brake pedal? i replaced that not too long ago.

would that give me a "low fluid" message?

i don't recall it doing that last time it failed.

lately the Brake light has been coming on along with a Message that the brake fluid is low.

i have checked the brake fluid and it is fine. i also pulled the fluid level switch multiplug and sprayed it with electrical cleaner.

i'm still getting the Brake light and Message.

what else should i check?

Gilbertd,

my 2000 P38 has had the exact same issue down to only happening after heavy rains on extended drives.

where exactly is the plug on the LH side that you are referring to?

rebuilt my spare Valve block two weeks ago and dropped it in the Range Rover.

everything is working as it should.

eventually i'll tear down the faulty Valve block to see what i did wrong with that one. most likely a crimped O-ring.

Harv wrote:

Yes, on the P38. I have 32’s on the Disco. I’ve thought a lot about larger tires on the P38. The big killer for me is that even a slightly larger tire won’t fit in the spare tire space. On the P38 you can’t get away with a smaller spare due to the AWD and viscous coupling. At this time I’m not keen on building a swing away spare, though that would solve the problem.

well, shoot.

so, a 30.5" tire won't fit in the spare space? i didn't even think to check that.

i was hoping to throw some 265/60/18 Pirelli Scorpion ATs on.

Gilbertd wrote:

Putting a 4 pin relay in means it is only energised while the ignition is on, so no wake up and self levelling but also no diagnostics.

i have read this in numerous places but my experience has been a bit different. two days ago i was able to pull diagnostic codes and clear the Faults
with the four pin relay in. i usually replace it with the five pin when i run diagnostic checks and pull Fault codes but forgot to do so this last time.

even with the four pin relay in place the RWS software was able to connect, read the Faults and reset the system. granted, it took a few tries to connect.

but it did eventually and i was able to get back on the road.

i just ordered another rebuild kit from X8R. i had to order from the UK as they seem to be out of stock on this side of the ocean.

once that arrives, i rebuild the spare valve block and install that so i can check out the valve block currently in the Rover.

i did some more testing this morning.

i popped the hood and checked the air pressure. it was sitting at 15 psi.

i started the Rover and left the driver's door open. the pump immediately started to refill the air tank. using a spray bottle with soapy water i sprayed every joint and every place the air lines go into the valve block. i also sprayed the exhaust silencer.

them pump runs strong and filled the tank to 110 psi in a minute or two. during this time i saw no air leaks from any of the lines or other usual supspects.

at 120 psi i turned the Rover off. right away i could hear air being vented. sure enough the exhaust silencer was bubbling like mad.

so, the system is venting all the air from the tank whenever i turn the truck off but is holding pressure while the truck is running.

does this mean my Diaphragm Valve is failing? if so, would it most likely be the disc?

i did rebuild this several months back but that doesn't mean i did it correctly.

Gilbertd wrote:

On the underside of the valve block, you've got two solenoids (Front Left and Rear Right) but there's also the Pressure Relief Valve and Pressure Switch. Highly unlikely a solenoid would suddenly start leaking that much air out so it could be either of the others.

what would cause the Pressure Relief Valve to discharge all the air.

i'll take a look at the schematics and diagrams this evening or tomorrow morning to see if i can figure out what triggers the PRV. but i don't want to change out the PRV if there is something else that is telling it to discharge.

i checked that and no leaks.

the air only leaked out this last time after i shut the engine off and the system went inactive.

Gentlemen,

i was finally able to get the software to connect properly and initialize.

i was able to read the following codes,

Air supply leak
Vehicle has moved
FL valve stuck closed

i was able to reset the EAS Fault and restarted the truck so the tank could recharge.

the pump is running. it will build pressure but then drop it all. i cannot find a leak in the lines anywhere but i'm leaning away from that anyway as the a leak in the lines would probably not allow any pressure to build.

Edit: hit send too early.

after Clearing the EAS Faults i restarted the truck and opened the driver's door. the pump filled the tank up within 5 minutes. i closed the door and the truck raised up to ride height and acted as if nothing was wrong.

when i turned the Rover off, however, i could hear air being released and the pressure gauge dropped from 140 psi to 0. the sound came from under the valve block it self.

i double checked all the airlines as i listened to the air discharge and confirmed no leaks from them. i also checked the Exhaust Silencer and there was no air coming from that, either.

you know?

i think you are both correct.

i'll reset the comms port and retest.

the Rover just got back from a 600 mile round trip and drove great.

prior to the trip i had noticed that the EAS would randomly let all the air out of the tank. it would reach about 80 psi and then exhaust all the air.

didn't worry about it too much as it was incredibly cold at the time and i couldn't work on it anyway. also, kinda hoped it was just being finicky due to the sub zero temps.

today taking the dog to the vet and went into EAS Fault but did not go to bumpstops. in fact, the front end raised and the rear dropped.

drove home no problem but while idling and sitting in the drive it dropped all the way down.

see the codes pulled below,
FR signal incorrect
RL signal incorrect
RR signal incorrect
Vehicle speed fault
Air supply leak
Target Heights incorrect
Vehicle has moved
FA:16_Hidden
FL valve stuck open
Exhaust valve stuck open
FB:64-Hidden
FB:128_Hidden
FL valve stuck closed
FR valve stuck closed
RL valve stuck closed
RR valve stuck closed
Exhaust valve stuck closed

i rebuilt the valve block about six or so months ago with all new o-rings.

does this sound like a bad pressure switch, pressure valve or exhaust solenoid?
i have a spare valve block that i have not rebuilt yet but can pull parts off that as needed.

thanks,

Harv wrote:

Jastutte are you in the USA? I’ve tried ordering the rebuild kit for my Marelli from Maniac, but it won’t accept my Canadian address. I’ve tried emailing them but no reply. Does anyone know another source for these kits?

i am.

while i was waiting for the kit to arrive i did some searching for the Voltage Regulator and Brushes on Amazon. i couldn't find an exact match.

the Voltage Regulator W080-39 is listed as a John Deere part and works well in our Rovers. Both my P38 and my '01 Discovery are using the new VRs.

Wagner Alternator and Supplies stocks them in the US. not sure if they sell retail.

Edit: to be clear, the W080-39 is an exact match and direct replacement for the OE Bosch VR.

per Maniac Electric Motors the resistor is not needed.

their Customer Service rep emailed me back despite it being after hours and gave me all the info i needed.

rebuild kits finally arrived.

however the voltage regulators are missing the green resistors that the old Bosch units have.

do i need to unsolder the resistors and install them on the new regulators?

anyone have any experience with the Maniac Electric Motors 13813RK rebuild kit? this is what i ordered but i'm wondering if i have the wrong Voltage Regulator.