I have a 2000 Range Rover and dropped in a used control head that I was told was fully functioning and tested good. The unit is from a reputable breaker that I have used for parts many times in the past.

My existing control head seems to work well, but the fan control knob gets stuck some times and the LCD screen doesn't display. So, purchased the used control head and dropped it in fully expecting a working LCD screen and functional HeVAC controls. The LCD screen turned on bright then immediately faded away. Before doing so, it showed me the book and ! symbol. I was not able to turn the blower fan speed up or down at all. The knob turned smoothly and freely but did not affect the fan speed at all. In fact, the fan turned off. I removed the used unit and reinstalled my old unit and all worked as it should with the exception of the LCD screen.

My working assumption is that the new (used) unit has stored faults that I need to clear. Is this correct or is the it more likely that the new unit is bad? What code readers work to read the HeVAC ECU?

Thanks,

On our last road trip we had the duct work dumping quite a bit of condensation on our feet as we were driving.

Is this clogged evaporator drains or something else? Where should I be looking? Just the drains behind the front tires?

My daughter has the P38 250 miles away at school. She called today because as she was driving on the highway the ABS, TC, Brake and SRS lights came on and then the AC shut off
and the lights to the HVAC unit all turned off.

When she was able to stop, she turned off and restarted the RR. Again ABS, TC, Brake, and SRS lights came on. The AC came on then shut off as did all the HVAC display lights.

At least it's all consistent. Should I be looking at relays or fuses? I'll be relaying any info from here to her via the phone/F@ceTime. She's not afraid to get her hands dirty but has limited experience with this Land Rover.

The SRS might be unrelated as it was turning on and off prior to me dropping off the P38 a month ago. I thought I had fixed it, but perhaps not.

Thanks in advance.

I just had my blend motors on my NAS spec 2000 P38 replaced by a reputable shop. I have two concerns.

The first is hopefully and easy fix. The front, far left vent will not open. The louvers all work fine. It is the door that is open and closed by the dial. Can I just pull the vent cover off and open the door? What might be causing this?

The second relates to the force of the air coming from the upper center dash vents. It feels a bit anemic especially compared to the footwell vents. It's been so long since I had upper vents that worked on this Rover that I've forgotten how it should feel. How strongly should the air be blowing out from those upper vents? I know that's a vague question but currently it just feels week.

Thanks,

i'm getting ready to replace the shocks on my 2000 P38.

is this as straight forward as it seems? just follow the Rave and done?

i've replaced the shocks on my Discoverys, so familiar with the procedure. but i just want to make sure there are no surprises the P38 will throw at me.

lately the Brake light has been coming on along with a Message that the brake fluid is low.

i have checked the brake fluid and it is fine. i also pulled the fluid level switch multiplug and sprayed it with electrical cleaner.

i'm still getting the Brake light and Message.

what else should i check?

the Rover just got back from a 600 mile round trip and drove great.

prior to the trip i had noticed that the EAS would randomly let all the air out of the tank. it would reach about 80 psi and then exhaust all the air.

didn't worry about it too much as it was incredibly cold at the time and i couldn't work on it anyway. also, kinda hoped it was just being finicky due to the sub zero temps.

today taking the dog to the vet and went into EAS Fault but did not go to bumpstops. in fact, the front end raised and the rear dropped.

drove home no problem but while idling and sitting in the drive it dropped all the way down.

see the codes pulled below,
FR signal incorrect
RL signal incorrect
RR signal incorrect
Vehicle speed fault
Air supply leak
Target Heights incorrect
Vehicle has moved
FA:16_Hidden
FL valve stuck open
Exhaust valve stuck open
FB:64-Hidden
FB:128_Hidden
FL valve stuck closed
FR valve stuck closed
RL valve stuck closed
RR valve stuck closed
Exhaust valve stuck closed

i rebuilt the valve block about six or so months ago with all new o-rings.

does this sound like a bad pressure switch, pressure valve or exhaust solenoid?
i have a spare valve block that i have not rebuilt yet but can pull parts off that as needed.

thanks,

are there any good rebuild or reference guides for rebuilding the 150 amp alternators used in the NA spec P38s?

figure now is as good a time as any to learn how to rebuild these things.

thanks,

i was driving home from the bank the other day and got the Gearbox Fault message then the ABS Fault message. the Rover decided that 3rd gear was the only gear it wanted to use for the remainder of the drive. well, at least, that's what it felt like.

shortly after this, the HVAC shut off and the the HVAC screen went blank. we decided the best course was to turn off the radio and all other electrical sundries and continue on since we were moments from home.

pulled into the driveway, parked the car, and then shut it off and tried to restart. nothing but clicks. easy enough. figured it was a dead battery and we had made it home on the alternator and a prayer. the last statement shows both my limited knowledge of a car's charging system and my utilitarian view of spiritualty. i am currently working to rectify one of those short comings.

did a little research and decided to pull the battery and throw it on the charger. the next day i installed the recharged battery and fired up the Rover. it started but sounded a little weak. still, it was running and that was good. i pulled out my tester and probed the battery while the Rover was running. 11 volts. that's not good. 10 volts. dammit.

a couple of minutes later the Rover shut off on its own.

while i was initially leaning towards a bad battery, now i'm thinking that the alternator may be bad.

if the alternator is bad that could have ruined the battery, as well. right? i'd hate to purchase, install and ruin a second battery if the alternator is bad.

would a good alternator allow a Rover to run even with a bad battery?
would a good alternator allow a battery to drain while the Rover was running or would it hold whatever charge there might be?

thanks,

after having some issues with the EAS system on my 2000 P38 i came to this site to try to find a fix.

a quick bit of searching and reading and i decided a rebuild/refresh to the EAS Valve Block and Compressor was in order.

i had a spare EAS Valve Block and Compressor sitting around and using the resources found here and a few other choice places, i was able to rebuild both with the x8r O-ring kit. the rebuild/refresh was surprisingly easy and went well. oddly enough, or perhaps not, both had been rebuilt at least one time previously.

i didn't notice anything untoward on the Valve Block but the Compressor had an obviously torn and damaged piston seal. i replaced every gasket and O-ring on both.

the rebuilt compressor filled the empty air tank to 150 psi in about eight minutes and shortly after that had the Rover sitting comfortably at normal drive height.

i'll be purchasing another x8r kit and will be rebuilding the EAS Valve Block and Compressor that came out of the RR in the next month or so to have spares to swap in. i have an extra EAS box, so i'm planning on rebuilding and then installing the Block and Compressor in the EAS box. that way if and when any issues come up i can just swap the freshly rebuilt box in.

after doing a quite a bit of reading and browsing some Youtube videos, thanks Storey, and then actually taking apart the Valve Block i realized that the system isn't that complex and shouldn't be too much of an issue to maintain.

thanks to everyone on this site who has posted info and experience about these great trucks.

and, i don't know who Zebedee is but, he can keep the coil springs. i love the air ride.

Anyone have a set or know if there even are any?

I have the lines and airports(?) installed. I'm just not sure if I can cut the existing lines to tap into them or if I need to air the system down first.

Plumbing the system seems pretty straight forward. I just would like to know what to expect when I do plumb it.

My plan is to tie into the lines fairly close to where they come out of the valve block but some printed out instructions I could reference would be great.

Thanks,

jastutte

Good Day,

My 2000 RR is stuck at Access Height. I have no faults showing up.

Pressure is sitting at 58 lbs(the PO put a pressure gauge in the engine compartment). No leaks that I can see, hear or feel. The pump runs but doesn't seem to be filling the tank.

I have the RSW software and took a look at that today. There are no faults showing. I'm going to let the RR idle with a door open to see if this time it will build pressure.

But any ideas as to what is going on?

Thanks,
jastutte