finished. and the RR is up and running. battery is strong. so, no need to replace that.

now to reset all the windows and rebuild the old alternator.

alternators showed up in the mail yesterday.

i'll brave the cold and numb, mashed fingers, change out the failed units and save them for rebuild.

i'll also be checking all the ground straps on both the P38 and the '01 Discovery. yep, its alternator crapped out two days after the Range Rover's.

i picked up a couple working, used alternators from Will Tillery for cheap.

i'll install the working ones and rebuild the ones coming out of my Rovers and keep those for trail/mall run spares.

thanks for everyone who replied.

are there any good rebuild or reference guides for rebuilding the 150 amp alternators used in the NA spec P38s?

figure now is as good a time as any to learn how to rebuild these things.

thanks,

thanks to everyone who responded.

i will run some more tests per GilbertD and report back.

i was driving home from the bank the other day and got the Gearbox Fault message then the ABS Fault message. the Rover decided that 3rd gear was the only gear it wanted to use for the remainder of the drive. well, at least, that's what it felt like.

shortly after this, the HVAC shut off and the the HVAC screen went blank. we decided the best course was to turn off the radio and all other electrical sundries and continue on since we were moments from home.

pulled into the driveway, parked the car, and then shut it off and tried to restart. nothing but clicks. easy enough. figured it was a dead battery and we had made it home on the alternator and a prayer. the last statement shows both my limited knowledge of a car's charging system and my utilitarian view of spiritualty. i am currently working to rectify one of those short comings.

did a little research and decided to pull the battery and throw it on the charger. the next day i installed the recharged battery and fired up the Rover. it started but sounded a little weak. still, it was running and that was good. i pulled out my tester and probed the battery while the Rover was running. 11 volts. that's not good. 10 volts. dammit.

a couple of minutes later the Rover shut off on its own.

while i was initially leaning towards a bad battery, now i'm thinking that the alternator may be bad.

if the alternator is bad that could have ruined the battery, as well. right? i'd hate to purchase, install and ruin a second battery if the alternator is bad.

would a good alternator allow a Rover to run even with a bad battery?
would a good alternator allow a battery to drain while the Rover was running or would it hold whatever charge there might be?

thanks,

after having some issues with the EAS system on my 2000 P38 i came to this site to try to find a fix.

a quick bit of searching and reading and i decided a rebuild/refresh to the EAS Valve Block and Compressor was in order.

i had a spare EAS Valve Block and Compressor sitting around and using the resources found here and a few other choice places, i was able to rebuild both with the x8r O-ring kit. the rebuild/refresh was surprisingly easy and went well. oddly enough, or perhaps not, both had been rebuilt at least one time previously.

i didn't notice anything untoward on the Valve Block but the Compressor had an obviously torn and damaged piston seal. i replaced every gasket and O-ring on both.

the rebuilt compressor filled the empty air tank to 150 psi in about eight minutes and shortly after that had the Rover sitting comfortably at normal drive height.

i'll be purchasing another x8r kit and will be rebuilding the EAS Valve Block and Compressor that came out of the RR in the next month or so to have spares to swap in. i have an extra EAS box, so i'm planning on rebuilding and then installing the Block and Compressor in the EAS box. that way if and when any issues come up i can just swap the freshly rebuilt box in.

after doing a quite a bit of reading and browsing some Youtube videos, thanks Storey, and then actually taking apart the Valve Block i realized that the system isn't that complex and shouldn't be too much of an issue to maintain.

thanks to everyone on this site who has posted info and experience about these great trucks.

and, i don't know who Zebedee is but, he can keep the coil springs. i love the air ride.

i don't have the Timer Relay plugged in.

i have a standard four plug relay in there instead.

and i can check the tank pressure every morning until the pump arrives and top it off if needed.

i'm almost 100% certain i have no air leaks presently.

and the Inhibitor button is there to keep others from changing the ride height when i'm not in the Rover.

yeah. it looks a bit goofy typed out that way.

but i wasn't sure how to describe what each vehicle had.

probably should have just said "lightly modded". though, then some may have asked what new software i had added to truck(s).

Ordered a new (used) pump from Will Tillery. Highly recommend him if you are in the U.S. and need parts.

To stay on the road I was able to tap into the line going to the tank and fill it from 60 PSI to 140 PSI.

I then turned on the RR and it quickly rose to normal height.

Turned it back off and topped off the air tank to get it back up to 140 PSI.

Then turned the RR back on, pushed the height lock button and shut it back off.

This should keep me on the road until the new pump arrives.

Thanks again for your help.

I was able to tap into the line going to the tank and refill it to 140 PSI.

I then turned on the RR and it quickly rose to normal height.

Turned it back off and topped off the air tank to get it back up to 140 PSI.

Thanks again for your help.

Gilbertd wrote:

You'll need to let the pressure out first (although cutting the pipes will let it out pretty quick anyway). Cut the pipes squarely with a sharp Stanley knife then chamfer the ends with a pencil sharpener.

Thanks. I'll get on it.

Anyone have a set or know if there even are any?

I have the lines and airports(?) installed. I'm just not sure if I can cut the existing lines to tap into them or if I need to air the system down first.

Plumbing the system seems pretty straight forward. I just would like to know what to expect when I do plumb it.

My plan is to tie into the lines fairly close to where they come out of the valve block but some printed out instructions I could reference would be great.

Thanks,

jastutte

thanks for the quick responses.

my suspicion was that the pump was getting weak.

i will get a replacement and save the current pump for a possible rebuild.

Good Day,

My 2000 RR is stuck at Access Height. I have no faults showing up.

Pressure is sitting at 58 lbs(the PO put a pressure gauge in the engine compartment). No leaks that I can see, hear or feel. The pump runs but doesn't seem to be filling the tank.

I have the RSW software and took a look at that today. There are no faults showing. I'm going to let the RR idle with a door open to see if this time it will build pressure.

But any ideas as to what is going on?

Thanks,
jastutte