I think that I'm becoming a pain, I'm after a man in the walsall westmidland area with the correct diagnostic tools to read my engine sensors ETC,
the fault has to be a sensor (i hope) just need help finding out which one.
See my other posts for details, if you could email me details i would be very thank full.
Fault.
Just rebuilt top end of engine new head gaskets etc, all new parts fitted including ht leads and plugs. well now when cold all seems fine nice tic over and revs ok, when it gets to working temp it starts misfiring but still tics over ok? will no rev above 1500. the only bit i missed was that i forgot to connect the alternator when i started it and got some strange faults including gearbox fault (all now gone since connecting and having a little drive)
Hi All,
Engine rebuilt and all looked well nice tick over could rev to 2500 to circulate oil and water, tappets went nice a quiet after 5 mins.
No pressure build up in top hose nice and cool not like before. So i'll give it a little test drive.
Well she now miss fires just over 1500 revs? I think it may be the leads breaking down as they are old and a miss match of types or spark plugs?
What do you think????
Hi All,
Well I've tested my block to 7.5bar 115psi and no failure? I.m unable to get to a higher pressure as my compressor will not go any higher.
only tested the side that has signs of water in the head, held pressure for 1hr and no leaks.
Will start the rebuild process with different heads.
I've also made a plate for the water pump but not tested
Hi All started a new topic in the wrong place maybe?
Has anyone in the West Midlands area got a V8 Block tested kit that i can lend?
I've just ordered a shed load of parts and i'm still confused what caused 2 cylinders to get water in and then gas the water when hot.
I'm hoping it is the head at fault and that the overhauled units will fix it but i like to be 100% sure.
I decided to strip my Radiator to see how blocked it might be, I'm sure the last owners had added K-Seal and or Steel Seal into the water system.
Picture shows the reversed side of the top and bottom covers and the other picture shows the bottom of the radiator, just pushing a hacksaw blade into the chambers and red sludge started to come out. i did this to about 20 chambers and all was the same (This hasn't helped with my overheating)
Hi All,
Well removed the heads yesterday and i think i need a new head.
Fault gas in the water and cooling system getting pressurised and hot,
Found rust marks on the front 2 N/S spark plug threads.
Inspection of the heads and the 2 bores that match the spark plugs are discoloured to the other 6 (cleaner as well)
No marks on the gasket to say that it's broken out. No marks to the block and liners look ok (cant see 2 liners fail?)
The head has been skimmed in its history 2013 previous owner?
Can a head pass a pressure test but fail in the real world operation??? Can a head fail internally and not show on the surface.
Would add Photos but i think site will not allow.
Hi All,
Well i've started to do a head strip today after checking the spark plugs and found that 2 off them have a slight bit of rust at the end of the threads.
Removing parts and taking photos etc got to wiring loom and found that the LH side knock sensor is not connected as if the wires have been pulled out sometime in its life.
Just read the RAVE book and it says that it can adjust the ignition timing for that side?
My Question is. What's faults can this cause?
I will find a new plug and rewire when putting back together
Hi All,
I've got a sick 4.0L Gems P38 :(
Over pressure on the expansion tank, Did slightly over heat once in my 1 months ownership.
New thermostat flushed system etc.
So it looks like a head strip.
But i have 1 question which i'm a little unsure, i also did a oil change with 5w 40 oil and added 1L off additive as its 140,000 miles
well when it gets hot and been running for sometime at idel speed in drive the oil light flashes also when started from cold i have a knock from the bottom end when i rev slightly?
can this be a liner????