I'm sure that this is just a breather pipe, check if it has a banjo fitting on the axle then it would most likely go up to the wheel arch area.
Yes I did Drop sump and cleaned strainer and replaced pump, money ran out and didn't want the shock of big ends gone etc,
so will need to revisit when money allows. but i have no rattles at the moment like before?
I also didn't want to spend anymore money until i'm happy that the over pressure and over heating had gone.
Did a nice steady drive today 60+ miles and she held steady on temp and even when i pulled up at lights no oil pressure light?
none motorway miles returning on the trip as 13.8 mpg
Success ? She raw's again. Had chance to check all the plugs that i disturbed and i think it was either the crank sensor or oxygen sensor.
Didn't notice that even when cold she would misfire at 3000 revs then when warm 1500 revs???
So she now runs as she should but i still have a issue with the oil pressure switch flicking on when warm, I've replaced the pump strip and cleaned pump assembly and all in spec, so do i have a week pressure switch or cooling rad is u/s running on 10w60 oil????
I think that I'm becoming a pain, I'm after a man in the walsall westmidland area with the correct diagnostic tools to read my engine sensors ETC,
the fault has to be a sensor (i hope) just need help finding out which one.
See my other posts for details, if you could email me details i would be very thank full.
Just rebuilt top end of engine new head gaskets etc, all new parts fitted including ht leads and plugs. well now when cold all seems fine nice tic over and revs ok, when it gets to working temp it starts misfiring but still tics over ok? will no rev above 1500. the only bit i missed was that i forgot to connect the alternator when i started it and got some strange faults including gearbox fault (all now gone since connecting and having a little drive)
New Plugs and leads fitted, starts sweet, tic over sweet, on the road all is well unit it gets warm then miss fire at over 1500 rev's?
No Power at all? Any ideas???
Engine rebuilt and all looked well nice tick over could rev to 2500 to circulate oil and water, tappets went nice a quiet after 5 mins.
No pressure build up in top hose nice and cool not like before. So i'll give it a little test drive.
Well she now miss fires just over 1500 revs? I think it may be the leads breaking down as they are old and a miss match of types or spark plugs?
What do you think????
Hi Gilbertd, I wish that was the case. Its a total mystery i have no idea whats caused it, on closer inspection of the head the 2 valve sets that had signs of water (pint colour valve heads (been told thats gycol burning)) both Inlet valves were not seating very good and 1 fixing pin for the air manifold on the head had a build up of that steel seal around it?
So could my fault been around this section? where the water passes the inlet manifold to the head????
Yes overflow on bottle is 1.5 bar, but to get gas in the water from your liners you need to prove that it holds pressure that can be generated within the combustion chamber which is high 8 bar +.
I still have no idea what caused me to have gas in the water in the first place?????
Well I've tested my block to 7.5bar 115psi and no failure? I.m unable to get to a higher pressure as my compressor will not go any higher.
only tested the side that has signs of water in the head, held pressure for 1hr and no leaks.
Will start the rebuild process with different heads.
I've also made a plate for the water pump but not tested
Change Of plan, Has any body got an old water pump?
I'll pay the P&P and once i've got a kit made up i'll be more than happy to share so we can keep a Great British icon going
Hi All started a new topic in the wrong place maybe?
Has anyone in the West Midlands area got a V8 Block tested kit that i can lend?
I've just ordered a shed load of parts and i'm still confused what caused 2 cylinders to get water in and then gas the water when hot.
I'm hoping it is the head at fault and that the overhauled units will fix it but i like to be 100% sure.
No Just going to get new one as only £70. Not worth the effort to repair, So one problem down several to go.
I decided to strip my Radiator to see how blocked it might be, I'm sure the last owners had added K-Seal and or Steel Seal into the water system.
Picture shows the reversed side of the top and bottom covers and the other picture shows the bottom of the radiator, just pushing a hacksaw blade into the chambers and red sludge started to come out. i did this to about 20 chambers and all was the same (This hasn't helped with my overheating)
Block Face shows no signs of breakdown, The Head Picture does not show what i can see being the 2 R/H valve sets were pink in colour. Around the rim of the inlet valves are pitted and been passing (as dark in colour not silver on mating surface) on the Exhaust valves the internal surface were slightly rusted. All 6 other valve sets look normal. The head Gasket shows no signs of breakdown.
The Receipts on the RR say heads were done in 2013 and the car has only done 800 miles since then? MOT History says the RR has done only 2000 miles since 2009
Again N/S head full skim down to min Faultly head, O/S head .010 skim leaving .040 left. I can't see 2 liners at fault on number 1 and 3. I'm just not seeing whats causing gas in the water unless the head has failed internally?
Photos of head and block which i think is at fault
Well removed the heads yesterday and i think i need a new head.
Fault gas in the water and cooling system getting pressurised and hot,
Found rust marks on the front 2 N/S spark plug threads.
Inspection of the heads and the 2 bores that match the spark plugs are discoloured to the other 6 (cleaner as well)
No marks on the gasket to say that it's broken out. No marks to the block and liners look ok (cant see 2 liners fail?)
The head has been skimmed in its history 2013 previous owner?
Can a head pass a pressure test but fail in the real world operation??? Can a head fail internally and not show on the surface.
Would add Photos but i think site will not allow.
Well i've started to do a head strip today after checking the spark plugs and found that 2 off them have a slight bit of rust at the end of the threads.
Removing parts and taking photos etc got to wiring loom and found that the LH side knock sensor is not connected as if the wires have been pulled out sometime in its life.
Just read the RAVE book and it says that it can adjust the ignition timing for that side?
My Question is. What's faults can this cause?
I will find a new plug and rewire when putting back together
The Additive i used was Lucas heavy duty oil stabillizer, the knock has only just started after about 1 week and say 100miles since oil change same as the oil light,
i cant say if the oil light was like this before the oil change as it was not noticed?
so im a little confused in whats happening as i've already spent many hours fixing RR elect faults and EAS issues.
haven't got £2000 foe recon engine, but willing to spend money like a head gasket kit etc and do it myself.
I've got a sick 4.0L Gems P38 :(
Over pressure on the expansion tank, Did slightly over heat once in my 1 months ownership.
New thermostat flushed system etc.
So it looks like a head strip.
But i have 1 question which i'm a little unsure, i also did a oil change with 5w 40 oil and added 1L off additive as its 140,000 miles
well when it gets hot and been running for sometime at idel speed in drive the oil light flashes also when started from cold i have a knock from the bottom end when i rev slightly?
can this be a liner????